London Labour and the London Poor, Volume 1
Mayhew, Henry
1861
Of the Diet and Drink of Costermongers.
It is less easy to describe the diet of costermongers than it is to describe that of many other of the labouring classes, for their diet, so to speak, is an "out-door diet." They breakfast at a coffee-stall, and (if all their means have been expended in purchasing their stock, and none of it be yet sold) they expend on the meal only , reserved for the purpose. For this sum they can procure a small cup of coffee, and "thin" (that is to say thin slices of bread and butter). For dinner— which on a week-day is hardly ever eaten at the costermonger's abode—they buy "block ornaments," as they call the small, darkcoloured pieces of meat exposed on the cheap butchers' blocks or counters. These they cook in a tap-room; half a pound costing If time be an object, the coster buys a hot pie or ; preferring fruit-pies when in season, and next to them meat-pies. "We never eat eel-pies," said man to me, "because we know they're often made of large dead eels. , of all people, are not to be had that way. But the haristocrats eats 'em and never knows the difference." I did not hear that these men had any repugnance to meat-pies; but the use of the dead eel happens to come within the immediate knowledge of the costermongers, who are, indeed, its purveyors. Saveloys, with a pint of beer, or a glass of "short" (neat gin) is with them another common week-day dinner. The costers make all possible purchases of street-dealers, and pride themselves in thus "sticking to their own." On Sunday, the costermonger, when not "cracked up," enjoys a good dinner at his own abode. This is always a joint— most frequently a shoulder or half-shoulder of mutton — and invariably with "lots of good taturs baked along with it." In the quality of their potatoes these people are generally particular. | |
The costermonger's usual beverage is beer, and many of them drink hard, having no other way of spending their leisure but in drinking and gambling. It is not unusual in "a good time," for a costermonger to spend out of every in beer and pleasure. | |
I ought to add, that the "single fellows," instead of living on "block ornaments" and the like, live, when doing well, on the best fare, at the "spiciest" cook-shops on their rounds, or in the neighbourhood of their residence. | |
There are some families of costermongers who have persevered in carrying out the principles of teetotalism. man thought there might be individuals, including men, women, and children, who practised total abstinence from intoxicating drinks. These parties are nearly all somewhat better off than their drinking companions. The number of teetotallers amongst the costers, however, was more numerous or years back. | |