London Labour and the London Poor, Volume 1
Mayhew, Henry
1861
Of the Street-Sellers of Bread.
THE street-trade in bread is not so extensive as might be expected, from the universality of the consumption. It is confined to and the poorer districts in that neighbourhood. A person who has known the East-end of town for nearly years, told me that as long as he could recollect, bread was sold in the streets, but not to the present extent. In and , when bread was the dearest, there was very little sold in the streets. At that time, and until , the Assize Acts, regulating the bread-trade, were in force, and had been in force in London since . Previously to bakers were restricted, by these Acts, to the baking of kinds of bread—wheaten, standard wheaten, and household. The wheaten was made of the best flour, the standard wheaten of the different kinds of flour mixed together, and the household of the coarser and commoner flour. In , however, it was enacted that within the City of London and miles round, "it shall be lawful for the bakers to make and sell bread made of wheat, barley, rye, oats, buck-wheat, Indian-corn, peas, beans, rice, or potatoes, or any of them, along with common salt, pure-water, eggs, milk, barm-leaven, potato, or other yeast, and mixed in such proportions as they shall think fit." I mention this because my informant, as well as an old master baker with whom I conversed on the | |
179 | subject, remembered that every now and then, after , but only for or years, some speculative trader, both in shops and in the streets, would endeavour to introduce an inferior, but still a wholesome, bread, to his customers, such as an admixture of barley with wheat-flour, but no —as far as I could learn —persevered in the speculation for more than a week or so. Their attempts were not only unsuccessful but they met with abuse, from streetbuyers especially, for endeavouring to palm off "brown" bread as "good enough for poor people." of my elder informants remembered his father telling him that in and , George III. had set the example of eating brown bread at his o'clock dinner, but he was sometimes assailed as he passed in his carriage, with the reproachful epithet of " George." This feeling continues, for the poor people, and even the more intelligent working-men, if cockneys, have still a notion that only "white" bread is fit for consumption. Into the question of the relative nutrition of breads, I shall enter when I treat of the bakers. |
During a period of about months in the summer, there are from to men daily selling stale bread. Of these only sell it regularly every day of the year, and they trade chiefly on their own account. Of the others, some are sent out by their masters, receiving from to for their labour. Those who sell on their own account, go round to the bakers' shops about Stepney, Mile-end, and Whitechapel, and purchase the stale-bread on hand. It is sold to them at , and per quartern less than the retail shop price; but when the weather is very hot, and the bakers have a large quantity of stale-bread on hand, the street-sellers sometimes get the bread at a quartern less than the retail price. All the street-sellers of bread have been brought up as bakers. Some have resorted to the streettrade, I am told, when unable to procure work; others because it is a less toilsome, and sometimes a more profitable means of subsistence, than the labour of an operative baker. It is very rarely that any of the street-traders leave their calling to resume working as journeymen. Some of these traders have baskets containing the bread offered for street-sale; others have barrows, and has a barrow resembling a costermonger's, with a long basket made to fit upon it. The dress of these vendors is a light coat of cloth or fustian; corduroy, fustian, or cloth trousers, and a cloth cap or a hat, the whole attire being, what is best understood as "dusty," ingrained as it is with flour. | |
From bread-seller, a middle-aged man, with the pale look and habitual stoop of a journeyman baker, I had the following account: | |
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The average quantity sold by each vendor during the summer months is quarterns daily, usually at , but occasionally at the quartern. man informed me that he had sold in day quarterns, receiving for them. | |
The number of men (for if there be women they are the men's wives) engaged daily throughout the year in the street-sale of bread is . | |
180 | These sell upon an average quarterns each per day: taking every day in the year each (a few being sold at ) |
Calculating then the months' trade in summer at quarterns per day per man, and reckoning men so selling, and each receiving (thus allowing for the threepenny sale); and taking the receipts of the regular traders at per day, we find nearly annually expended in the street purchase of quartern loaves of bread. The profits of the sellers vary from to a week, according to the extent of their business. | |
To start in this branch of the street-trade a capital is required according to the following rate:—Stock-money for bread, average ; (largest amount required, ; smallest, ); a basket, Of those who are employed in the summer, -half have baskets, and the other half bakers' barrows; while of those who attend the year through, have baskets at each, have barrows at each, and a barrow and the long basket, before mentioned. The barrow costs , and the basket | |