TEI | London Labour and the London Poor, Volume 1 | ID: 73666f96f

London Labour and the London Poor, Volume 1

Mayhew, Henry

1861

Of the Street-Sellers of Hot Elder Wine.


	THE sale of hot elder wine in the streets is of the trades which have been long established, but it is only within these or years that it has been carried on in its present form. It continues for about months in the winter.
	Elder wine is made from the berries of the elder-tree. Elder syrup—also made from the
190	berries—was formerly famous in the north of England as a curative for colds, and was frequently taken, with a small admixture of rum, at bedtime. Some of the street-sellers make the wine themselves; the majority, however, buy it of the British wine makers. The berries must be gathered when fully ripe, and on a dry day. They are picked, measured, and put into a copper, gallons of water being added to every gallon of berries. They are then boiled till the berries are quite soft, when the liquor is strained and pressed from them through a strong hair sieve. The liquor thus expressed is again put into the copper, boiled an hour, skimmed, and placed in a tub along with a bread toast, on which yeast is spread thickly; it then stands days, and is afterwards put into a cask, a few cloves and crusted ginger being hung in a muslin bag from the bung-hole, so as to flavour the liquor. Sometimes this spicing is added afterwards, when the liquor is warmed. The berries are sold in the markets, principally in Covent-garden,—the price varying, according to the season, from to a gallon. Of all elder-wine makers the Jews are the best as regards the street commodity. The costermongers say they "have a secret;" a thing said frequently enough when superior skill is shown, and especially when, as in the case of the Jews' elder wine, better pennyworths are given. The Jews, I am told, add a small quantity of raspberry vinegar to their "elder," so as to give it a "sharp pleasant twang." The heat and pungency of the elder wine sold in the streets is increased by some street-sellers by means of whole black pepper and capsicums.
	The apparatus in which the wine is now kept for sale in the streets is of copper or brass, and is sometimes "handsome." It is generally an urn of an oblong form, erected on a sort of pedestal, with the lid or top ornamented with brass mouldings, &c. plated taps give vent to the beverage. Orifices are contrived and are generally hidden, or partially hidden, with some ornament, which act as safety-valves, or, as man would have it, "chimneys." The interior of these urns holds or quarts of elder wine, which is surrounded with boiling water, and the water and wine are kept up to the boiling pitch by means of a charcoal fire at the foot of the vessel. Fruit of some kind is generally sold by the elder-wine men at their stand.
	The elder wine urn is placed on a stand covered with an oil-cloth, or glasses being ranged about it. It is sold at a halfponny and a penny a glass; but there is "little difference in some elder wines," I was told, "between the penn'orths and the ha'porths." A wine glass of the "regular" size is a half-quartern, or the of a pint.
	Along with each glass of hot elder wine is given a small piece of toasted bread. Some buyers steep this bread in the wine, and so imbibe the flavour. "It ain't no good as I know on," said an elder-wine seller, "but it's the fashion, and so people must have it." The purchasers of elder wine are the working classes—but not the better order of them—and the boys of the street. Some of these lads, I was told, were very choice and critical in their elder wines. Some will say: "It ain't such bad wine, but not the real spicy."—"The helder I thinks," said another, "is middlin', but somehow there's nothing but hotness for to taste."
	Of these traders there are now perhaps in London. man counted up of his brethren whom he knew personally, or knew to be then "working elder," and he thought. that there might be as many more, but I am assured that is about the mark. The sellers of elder wine have been for the most part mechanics who have adopted the calling for the reasons I have often given. None of them, in the course of my inquiry, depended entirely upon the sale of the wine, but sold fruit in addition to it. All complained of the bad state of trade. man said, that or years back he had replenished the wine in a quart urn times a day, a jar of the wine being kept at the stall in readiness for that purpose. This amounted to glasses sold in the course of the day, and a receipt— reckoning each glass at a penny—of ; but probably not more than would be taken, as some would have halfpenny glasses. Now the same man rarely sells quarts in a day, except perhaps on a Saturday, and on wet days he sells none at all. The elder wine can be bought at almost any price at the wine makers, from to the quart. The charge in the public-houses is twice as high as in the streets, but the inn wine, I was told by a person familiar with the trade, contains spirit, and is more highly spiced.
	A decent-looking middle-aged man who had been in a gentleman's service, but was disabled by an accident which crushed his hand, and who thereupon resorted to street-selling and had since continued in it, in different branches, from to years, gave me an account of his customers. He had not been acquainted with the elder-wine trade above or years when he bought an elder can for about among a cheap miscellaneous "lot" in Friday afternoon, and so he commenced:
	It's a poor trade, sir," he said. "I don't suppose any of us make 10s. a week at it alone, but it's a good help to other things, and I do middling. I should say less than a 1s. a day was above the average profits of the trade. Say 5s. a week, for on wet days we can't sell at all. No one will stop to drink elder wine in the wet. They'll rather have a pennor'th of gin, or half a pint of beer with the chill off, under shelter. I sell sometimes to people that say they're teetotallers and ask if there's any spirit in my wine. I assure them there's not, just the juice of the berry. I start when I think the weather's cold enough, and keep at it as long as there's any demand. My customers are boys and poor people, and I sell more ha'porths than pennor'ths. I've heard poor women that's bought of me say it was the only wine they ever tasted. The boys are hard to please, but I won't put up with their nonsense. It's not once in fifty times that a girl of the town buys my wine. It's not strong enough for her, I fancy. A sharp frosty dry day suits me best. I may then sell three or four quarts. I don't make it, but buy it. It's a poor trade, and I think it gets worse every year, though I believe there's far fewer of us.
	elder-wine stand in Tottenham-court-road cost, when new, , but that was or years ago. Calculating that persons clear a week for weeks, their profit being at least cent. per cent., the street outlay in this very British wine will be only , and the street-consumption of it in the course of the year gallons.

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Edwin C. Bolles papers

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1861

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	Title Page
	PREFACE
	The Street-Folk: Of Wandering Tribes in General
	Of the Wandering Tribes of this Country
	Of the London Street-Folk
	Of the Number of Costermongers and Other Street-Folk Of the Number of Costermongers and Other Street-Folk Of the Varieties of Street-Folk in General, and Costermongers in Particular Of Costermongering Mechanics Ancient Calling of Costermongers Of the Obsolete Cries of the Costermongers Of the Costermongers 'Economically' Considered The London Street Markets on a Saturday Night The Sunday Morning Markets Habits and amusements of Costermongers Gambling of Costermongers 'Vic Gallery' The Politics of Costermongers.-- Policemen Marriage and Concubinage of Costermongers Religion of Costermongers Of the Uneducated State of Costermongers Language of Costermongers Of the Nicknames of Costermongers Of the Education of Costermongers' Children The Literature of Costermongers Of the Honesty of Costermongers Of the Conveyances of the Costermongers and Other Street-Sellers Of the 'Smithfield Races' Of the Donkeys of the Costermongers Of the Costermongers' Capital Of the 'Slang' Weights and Measures Of Half Profits Of the Boys of the Costermongers, and their Bunts Of the Juvenile Trading of the Costermongers Of the Education of the 'Coster-Lads' The Life of a Coster-Lad Of the 'Penny Gaff' Of the Coster-Girls The Life of a Coster Girl Of Costermongers and Thieves Of the More Provident Costermongers Of the Homes of the Costermongers Of the Dress of the Costermongers Once Try You'll Come Again Of the Diet and Drink of Costermongers Of the Cries, Rounds, and Days of Costermongers Of the Costermongers on their Country Rounds Of the Earnings of Costermongers Of the Capital and Income of the Costermongers Of the Providence and Improvidence of Costermongers Of the Costermongers in Bad Weather and During the Cholera Of the Costermongers' Raffles Of the Markets and Trade Rights of the Costerongers, and of the Laws Affecting Them Of the Removals of Costermongers From the Streets Of the Tricks of Costermongers
	Of the Street-Sellers of Fish Of the Street-Sellers of Fish Of the Costermongers' Fish Season Billingsgate Of the Forestalling of Markets and the Billingsgate Of 'Wet' Fish-Sellers in the Streets
	Of Sprat-Selling in the Streets Of Sprat-Selling in the Streets Of Shell-Fish Sellers in the Streets Of Shrimp Selling in the Streets Of Oyster Selling in the Streets Of Periwinkle Selling in the Streets Of 'Dry' Fish Selling in the Streets Gross Value of the Several Kinds of Fish Annually Sold in the Streets of London
	Of the Street-Sellers of Fruit and Vegetables Of the Kinds and Quantity of Fruit and Vegetables Sold in the Streets Of the Fruit and Vegetable Season of the Costermongers Of Covent Garden Market Of 'Green' Fruit Selling in the Streets Of the Orange and Nut Market Of Orange and Lemon Selling in the Streets Of Nut Selling in the Streets Of Roasted Chestnuts and Apples Of 'Dry' Fruit Selling in the Streets Of the Street-Sale of Vegetables Of the 'Aristocratic' Vegetable-Sale Of Onion Selling in the Streets Of Pot-Herbs and Celery Gross Value of the Fruit and Vegetables Sold annually in the London Streets
	Of the Stationary Street-Sellers of Fish, Fruit, and Vegetables Of the Number of Street Stalls Of the Character of the Street-Stalls Of Fruit-Stall Keepers Of a Public Meeting of Street-Sellers
	Of the Street-Irish Of the Street-Irish Of the Causes Which Have Made the Irish Turn Costermongers How the Street-Irish Displanted the Street-Jews in the Orange Trade Of the Religion of the Street-Irish Of the Education, Literature, Amusements, and Politics of the Street-Irish The Homes of the Street-Irish Irish Lodging-Houses For Immigrants Of the Diet, Drink, and Expense of Living of the Street-Irish Of the Resources of the Street-Irish as Regards 'Stock-Money,' Sickness, Burials, &c. Of the History of Some Irish Street-Sellers Of the Irish 'Refuse'--Sellers
	Of the Street-Sellers of Game, Poultry (Live and Dead), Rabbits, Butter, Cheese, and Eggs Of the Street-Sellers of Game, &c. Of the Quantity of Game, Rabbits, and Poultry, Sold in the Streets Of the Street-Purchasers of Game and Poultry Of the Experience of a Game Hawker Statement of Two Poultry Hawkers Of the Street Sale of Live Poultry Of Rabbit Selling in the Streets Of the Street Sale of Butter, Cheese, and Eggs
	Of the Sellers of Trees, Shrubs, Flowers (Cut and In Pots), Roots, Seeds, and Branches Of the Sellers of Trees, &c. Of the Quantity of Shrubs, 'Roots,' Flowers, Etc., Sold in the Streets, and of the Buyers Of the Street Sale of Trees and Shrubs The London Flower Girls Of Two Orphan Flower Girls Of the Life of a Flower Girl Of the Street Sale of Lavender Cut Flowers Of the Street Sale of Flowers in Pots, Roots, Etc. Of the Street Sale of Seeds Of Christmasing-- Laurel, Ivy, Holly, and Mistletoe Of the Sale of May, Palm, Etc
	Street-Sellers of Green Stuff Street-Sellers of Green Stuff Of Watercress-Selling, in Farringdon Market Of the Street-Sellers of Water-Cress Watercress Girl Of Groundsel and Chickweed Sellers Of Turf Cutting and Selling Of the Experience and Customers of A Turf-Cutter Of Plantain-Sellers
	Of the Street-Sellers of Eatables and Drinkables Of the Street-Sellers of Eatables and Drinkables Of the Street-Sellers of Pea-Soup and Hot Eels Of the Experience of a Hot-Eel and Pea-Soup Man Of the Street-Sellers of Pickled Whelks Of the Customers, Etc., of Pickled Whelk-Sellers Of the Street Sellers, and of the Preparation of Fried Fish Of the Experience of a Fried Fish- Seller, and of the Class of Customers Of the Preparation and Quantity of Sheep's Trotters, and of the Street-Sellers Statements of Sheep's Trotter Women Of the Street Trade in Baked Potatoes Of 'Trotting,' or 'Hawking' Butchers Of the Experience of a Hawking Butcher Of the Street-Sellers of Ham-Sandwiches Of the Experience of a Ham Sandwich- Seller Of the Street-Sellers of Bread Of the Street-Sellers of Hot Green Peas Of the Experience of a Hot Green Pea Seller Of Cats' and Dogs'--Meat Dealers Of the Street-Sale of Drinkables Of Coffee-Stall Keepers Of the Street Sale of Ginger-Beer, Sherbet, Lemonade, &c Of the Experience and Customers of A Ginger-Beer Seller Of the Street-Sellers of Hot Elder Wine Of the Street Sale of Peppermint-Water Of Milk Selling in St. James's Park Of the Street Sale of Milk Of the Street-Sale of Curds and Whey Of the Street-Sellers of Rice-Milk Of Water-Carriers Of the Street-Sellers of Pastry and Confectionary Of Street Piemen Of the Street-Sellers of Boiled Puddings Of the Street-Sellers of Plum 'Duff' or Dough Of the Street-Sellers of Cakes, Tarts, &c. Of Other Cake-Sellers in the Streets Of the Street-Sellers of Gingerbread- Nuts, &c. Of the Street-Sellers of Hot-Cross Buns, and of Chelsea Buns Of Muffin and Crumpet-Selling in the Streets Of the Street Sale of Sweet-Stuff Of the Customers of the Sweet-Stuff Street-Sellers Of the Street-Sellers of Cough Drops and of Medical Confectionary 'Lohoch de farfara,' the Lohoch of Coltsfoot Of the Street-Sellers of Ices and of Ice Creams Of the Capital and Income of the Street-Sellers of Eatables and Drinkables Capital, or Stock in Trade, of the Street- Sellers of Eatables and Drinkables Income, or 'Takings,' of Street-Sellers of Eatables and Drinkables
	Of the Street-Sellers of Stationery, Literature, and the Fine Arts Of the Street-Sellers of Stationery, &c. Of the Former and Present Street- Patterers Of the Habits, Opinions, Morals, and Religion of Patterers Generally Of the Publishers and authors of Street-Literature Of Long Song-Sellers Of Running Patterers Experience of a Running Patterer Of the Recent Experience of a Running Patterer Of the Chaunters Of the Experience of a Chaunter Of the Death and Fire Hunters Of the Sellers of Second Editions Of the Standing Patterers Experience of a Standing Patterer Of Political Litanies, Dialogues, etc. Of 'Cocks,' Etc. Of 'Strawing' Of the Sham indecent Street-Trade Of Religious Tract Sellers Of a Benefit Society of Patterers Of the Abodes, Tricks, Marriage, Character, and Characteristics of the Different Grades of Patterers Of the Low Lodging-Houses of London Of the Filth, Dishonesty, and Immorality of Low Lodging-Houses Of the Children in Low Lodging- Houses Of the Low Lodging-Houses Throughout the Country Of the Street Stationers, and the Street Card-Sellers Of the Seller of the Penny Short-Hand Cards The Lecture 'I perish with hunger' Of the Sellers of Race Cards and Lists Of the Street-Sellers of Gelatine, of Engraved, and of Playing Cards, &c. Of the Street-Sellers of Stationery Of the Experience of a Street- Stationer Of a 'Reduced' Gentlewoman, and a 'Reduced' Tradesman, as Street-Sellers of Stationery Of the Street-Sale of Memorandum- Books and Almanacks Of the Street-Sale of Pocket-Books and Diaries Of the Street-Sellers of Songs Of the Street 'Pinners-up,' or Wall Song-Sellers Of Ancient and Modern Street Ballad Minstrelsy Of Street 'Ballads on a Subject' Of the Street Poets and Authors Of the Experience of a Street Author, or Poet Of the Street-Sellers of Broad-Sheets Of the 'Gallows' Literature of the Streets Of the Street-Sellers of Conundrums Of the Street-Sellers of Comic Exhibitions, Magical Delusions, &c. Of the Street-Sellers of Play-Bills Of the Street-Sellers of Periodicals, Pamphlets, Tracts, Books, Etc. Of the Street-Sale of Back Numbers Of the Sale of Waste Newspapers at Billingsgate Of the Sale of Periodicals on the Steam- Boats and Steam-Boat Piers Of the Sale of Newspapers, Books, &c., at the Railway Stations Of the Street Booksellers Of the Character of Books of the Street-Sale Of the Experience of a Street Book- Seller Of Street Book-Auctioneers Of the Street-Sale of Song-Books, and of Children's Books Of the Street-Sellers of Account-Books Of the Street-Sellers of Guide-Books, &c. Of the Street-Sellers of Fine Arts Of Street Art Of the Street-Sellers of Engravings, Etc., in Umbrellas, Etc. Of the Street-Sellers of Pictures in Frames Of the Street-Sellers of Manuscript and Other Music Of the Capital and Income of the Street-Sellers of Stationery, Literature, and the Fine Arts Capital or Value of the Stock-in-Trade of the Street-Sellers of Stationery, Literature and the Fine Arts Income, or Average Annual 'Takings,' of the Street-Sellers of Stationery, Literature, and the Fine Arts An Epitome of the Pattering Class Of the 'Screevers,' or Writers of Begging-Letters and Petitions 'God Save the Queen' Of the Probable Means of Reformation
	Of the Street-Sellers of Manufactured Articles Of the Street-Sellers of Manufactured Articles Of the Street-Sellers of Manufactured Articles in Metal Of the Cheap Johns, or Street Han- Sellers 'The Original Cheap John' The Crippled Street-Seller of Nut- Meg-Graters Of the Swag-Shops of the Metropolis Shopkeepers and Dealers Supplied with the Following Articles -- Of the Life of a Cheap-John The Street-Sellers of Cutlery Of the Blind Street-Sellers of Tailors' Needles, etc. The Public-House Hawkers of Metal Spoons, Etc. Of the Street-Sellers of Jewellery Of the Pedlar-Jewellers Of the Street-Sellers of Card-Counters, Medals, Etc. The Construction is of Iron and of Glass, 1848 Feet Long. about Half is 456 Wide. the Remainder 408 Feet Wide, and 66 Feet High; Site, Upwards of 20 acres. Josh. Paxton, archt. Of the Street-Sellers of Rings and Sovereigns For Wagers Of the Street-Sellers of Children's Gilt Watches Of the Street-Sellers of Tinware Of the Life of a Tin-Ware Seller Of the Street-Sellers of Dog-Collars Of the Life of a Street-Seller of Dog- Collars Of the Street-Sellers of Tools Of the Beggar Street-Sellers Pike's Patent Cotton. 120 Yards 'The Lace-Makers' Appeal' 'ALLEN, Printer, Long-row, Nottingham' Of the 'House of Lords,' a Street-Seller's Defunct Club Of the Street-Sellers of Crockery and Glass-Wares Of the 'Swag,' Crockery, and Glass Shops Of the Street-Sellers of Spar and China Ornaments, and of Stone Fruit Of the Street-Sellers of Textile Fabrics Of the Haberdashery Swag-Shops Of Hawkers, Pedlars, and Petty Chapmen Of the Packmen, or Hawkers of Soft Wares Statement of a Packman Of the Tally Packman Of the 'Duffers' or Hawkers of Pretended Smuggled Goods Of the Street-Sellers of 'Small-Ware,' or Tape, Cotton, Etc. Of the Street-Sellers of Lace Of the Street-Sellers of Japanned Table- Covers Of the Street-Sellers of Braces, Belts, Hose, Trowser-Straps, and Waistcoats Of the Street-Sellers of Boot and Stay- Laces, &c. Of a Blind Female Seller of 'Small-Wares' The Blind Street-Seller of Boot-Laces Of the Life of a Blind Boot-Lace Seller Of the Low Lodging-Houses Statement of a Young Pickpocket Statement of a Prostitute Statement of a Beggar Meeting of Thieves Of the Country Lodging-Houses Of the Street-Sellers of Chemical Articles of Manufacture Of the Street-Sellers of Blacking, Black Lead, Etc. Of the Street-Sellers of French Polish Of the Street-Sellers of Grease-Removing Compositions Of the Street-Sellers of Corn-Salve Of the Street-Sellers of Glass and China Cement, and of Razor Paste Of the Street-Seller of Crackers and Detonating Balls Of the Street-Sellers of Lucifer-Matches Of the Street-Sellers of Cigar Lights, or Fuzees Of the Street-Sellers of Gutta-Percha Heads Of the Street-Sellers of Fly-Papers and Beetle-Wafers Of the Street-Sellers of Miscellaneous Manufactured Articles Of the Street-Sellers of Walking-Sticks Of the Street-Sellers of Whips, Etc. Of the Street-Sellers of Pipes, and of Snuff and Tobacco Boxes Of the Street-Sellers of Cigars Of the Street-Sellers of Sponge Of the Street-Sellers of Wash-Leathers Of the Street-Sellers of Spectacles and Eye-Glasses Of the Street-Sellers of Dolls Of the 'Swag-Barrowmen,' and 'Lot- Sellers' Of the Street-Sellers of Roulette Boxes Of the Street-Sellers of Poison For Rats Of the Street-Sellers of Rhubarb and Spice Of the Hawking of Tea
	Of the Women Street-Sellers Of the Women Street-Sellers Of a Single Woman, as a Street-Seller Of a Mechanic's Wife, as a Street-Seller Of an Irishwoman, as a Street-Seller Of a Widow, a Street-Seller
	Of the Children Street-Sellers of London Of the Children Street-Sellers of London Of Children Sent Out as Street-Sellers by their Parents Of a 'Neglected' Child, a Street-Seller Of a Hired Coster Boy Of an Orphan Boy, a Street-Seller Of the Life of an Orphan Girl, a Street- Seller Of Two Runaway Street-Boys Of the Capital and Income of the Street-Sellers of Manufactured Articles
	Index