London Labour and the London Poor, Volume 1
Mayhew, Henry
1861
Of the Street-Sellers of Cakes, Tarts, &c.
These men and boys—for there are very few women or girls in the trade—constitute a somewhat numerous class. They are computed (including Jews) at at the least, all regular hands, with an addition, perhaps, of or , who seek to earn a few pence on a Sunday, but have some other, though poorly remunerative, employment on the week-days. The cake and tart-sellers in the streets have been, for the most part, mechanics or servants; a of the body, however, have been brought up to this or to some other street-calling. | |
The cake-men carry their goods on a tray slung round their shoulders when they are offering their delicacies for sale, and on their heads when not engaged in the effort to do business. They are to be found in the vicinity of all public places. Their goods are generally arranged in pairs on the trays; in bad weather they are covered with a green cloth. | |
None of the street-vendors make the articles they sell; indeed, the diversity of those articles renders that impossible. Among the regular articles of this street-sale are "Coventrys," or -cornered puffs with jam inside; raspberry biscuits; cinnamon biscuits; "chonkeys," or a kind of mince-meat baked in crust; Dutch butter-cakes; Jews' butter-cakes; "bowlas," or round tarts made of sugar, apple, and bread; "jumbles," or thin crisp cakes made of treacle, butter, and flour; and jams, or open tarts with a little preserve in the centre. | |
All these things are made for the street-sellers by about a dozen Jew pastry-cooks, the most of whom reside about Whitechapel. They confine themselves to the trade, and make every description. On a fine holiday morning their shops, or rather bake-houses, are filled with customers, as they supply the small shops as well as the street-sellers of London. Each article is made to be sold at a halfpenny, and the allowance by the wholesale pastry-cook is such as to enable his customers to realise a profit of in ; thus he charges a dozen for the several articles. Within the last years there has been, I am assured, a great improvement in the composition of these cakes, &c. This is attributable to the Jews having introduced superior dainties, and, of course, rendered it necessary for the others to vie with them; the articles vended by these Jews (of whom there are from to in the streets) are still pronounced, by many connoisseurs in street-pastry, as the best. Some sell penny dainties also, but not to a part of the halfpenny trade. of the wholesale pastry-cooks takes a week. These wholesale men, who sometimes credit the streetpeople, buy , , or sacks of flour at a time whenever a cheap bargain offers. They purchase as largely in Irish butter, which they have bought at or the pound. They buy also "scrapings," or what remains in the butter-firkins when emptied by the butter-sellers in the shops. "Good scrapings" are used for the best cakes; the jam they make themselves. To commence the wholesale business requires a capital of To commence the street-selling requires a capital of only ; and this includes the cost of a tray, about ; a cloth ; and a leathern strap, with buckle, to go round the neck, ; while the rest is for stock, with a shilling, or as a reserve. All the street-sellers insist upon the impossibility of any general baker making cakes as cheap as those they vend. "It's impossible, sir," said man to me; "it's a trade by itself; nobody else can touch it. They was miserable little things years ago." | |
An acute-looking man, decently dressed, gave me the following account. He resided with his wife—who went out charing—in a decent little back-room at the East-end, for which he paid a week. He had no children:— | |
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Reckoning cake-sellers, each clearing a week, a sufficiently low average, the street outlay will be , representing a streetconsumption of cakes, tarts, &c. | |