London Labour and the London Poor, Volume 1
Mayhew, Henry
1861
Of the Street-Sellers of Jewellery.
THE jewellery now sold in the streets far exceeds, both in cheapness and quality, what was known even years ago. years ago the jewellery itinerant trade was almost entirely, if not entirely, in the hands of Jews, who at any rate professed to sell really gold articles, and who asked large prices; but these traders have lost their command over this, as I have shown that they have over other street callings, as not a of the street-jewellers are now Jews. A common trade among such street and country itinerant jewellers was in large watch seals, the bodies of which were of lead, more or less thickly plated with gold, and which were unsaleable even as old metal until broken to pieces,—but not always saleable then. The street or itinerant trade was for a long time afterwards carried on only by those who were regularly licensed as hawkers, and who preferred "barter" or "swopping" to actual sale, the barter being usually for other and more solid articles of the goldsmith's trade. | |
The introduction of "mosaic" and other cheap modes of manufacturing gold ornaments, brought about considerable changes in the trade, pertaining, however, more to the general manufacture, than to that prepared for the streets. | |
The itinerants usually carry their wares in boxes or cases, which shut up close, and can be slung on the shoulder for conveyance, or hung round the neck for the purposes of sale. These cases are nearly all glazed; within them the jewellery is disposed in such manner as, in the street-seller's judgment, is the most attractive. A card of the larger brooches, or of cameos, often forms the centre, and the other space is occupied with the shawl-pins, with their globular tops of scarlet or other coloured glass: rings, armlets, necklaces, a few earrings and ear-drops, and sometimes a few side-combs, small medals for keepsakes, clasps, beads, and bead-purses, ornamental buttons for dresses, gilt buckles for waistbelts, thimbles, &c., constitute the street jeweller's stock-in-trade. The usual prices are from to ; the price most frequently obtained for any article being It will be seen from the enumeration of the articles, that the stock is such as is required "for women's wear," and women are now almost the sole customers of the streetjewellers. "In my time, sir," said elderly street-trader, "or rather, when I was a boy, and in my uncle's time—for he was in jewellery, and I helped him at times—quite different sorts of jewellery was sold, and quite different prices was had; what's a high figure now was a low figure then. I've known children's coral and bells in my uncle's stock—well, I don't know whether it was real coral or not—and big watch keys with coloured-stones in the centre on 'em, such as I've seen old gents keep spinning round when they was talking, and big seals and watch-chains; there weren't no guards then, as I remember. And there was plated fruit-knives—silver, as near as a toucher—and silver pencils (pencil-cases), and gilt lockets, to give your sweetheart your hair in for keepsakes. Lor' bless you! times is turned upside down." | |
The disposition of the street-stalls is somewhat after the same fashion as that in the itinerant's box, with the advantage of a greater command of space. Some of the stalls— in Tottenhamcourt Road, I may instance, and another in Whitechapel—make a great show. | |
I did not hear of any in this branch of the jewellery trade who had been connected with it as working jewellers. I heard of journeymen watchmakers and clockmakers now selling jewellery (but often with other things, such as eye-glasses) in the street, but that is all. The street mass selling jewellery in town and country are, I believe, composed of the various classes who constitute the street-traders generally. | |
Of the nature of his present trade, and of the class of his customers, I had the following account from a man of years' experience in the vending of street jewellery:— | |
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I am informed that there are not less than individuals who all buy their jewellery at the London swag-shops, and sell it in the streets, with or without other articles, but principally without; and that of this number are generally in London and its suburbs, including such places as Gravesend, Woolwich, and Greenwich. Of these traders about - are women; and in town about -fifths are itinerant, and the others stationary. -half, or thereabouts, of the women, are the wives of street-sellers; the others trade on their own account. A few "swop" jewellery for old clothes, with either the mistress or the maids. or , when they see a favourable opportunity, offer to tell any servantmaid her fortune. "'Buy this beautiful agate brooch, my dear,' the woman'll say, 'and I'll only charge you '—a German thing, sir, costing her farthings street-jeweller informed me,—'and I'll tell you your fortune into the bargain.'" | |
"old hand" calculated, that when a streetjeweller could display worth of stock, he could clear, all the year round, a week. "People," said this man, "as far as I've known the streets, like to buy of what they think is a respectable man, and seemingly well to do; they feel safe with him." Those, however, who cannot boast so large a stock of jewellery as worth, may only clear instead of weekly. trader thought that the average earnings of his fraternity might be taken at a week; another—and both judged from their own experience—thought was high enough. Calculating, then, at a weekly profit of , and a receipt of per individual, we find expended in the street-trade, including the sales at Gravesend, Woolwich, and Greenwich; where—both places being resorted to by pleasure-seekers and seamen—the trade is sometimes considerable; watches, which now are almost unknown in a regular street-trade, there forming an occasional part of it. | |