London Labour and the London Poor, Volume 1
Mayhew, Henry
1861
Of the Street-Sellers of Lace.
THIS trade is carried on both by itinerants and at stands, or "pitches." The itinerants, of whom I will treat, are about in number ( | |
387 | women and men). They usually carry their lace in boxes, or cases. It is not uncommon for the women to represent themselves as lacemakers from Marlow, or some other place in Buckinghamshire, or from Honiton, in Devonshire, while the men assert they are from Nottingham. I am informed that there are among these itinerant lacesellers women and man who really have been lacemakers. They all buy their wares at the haberdashery swag-shops. |
The lace, which is the principal staple of this trade, is "edgings," or the several kinds of cheap lace used for the bordering of caps and other female requirements. Among street-people the lace is called "driz," and the sellers of it "drizfencers." It gained this slang name, I was informed, many years ago, when it was sold, and often to wealthy ladies, as rare and valuable lace, smuggled from Mechlin, Brussels, Valenciennes, or any foreign place famous, or once famous, for its manufacture. The pretended smuggled lace trade is now unknown in London, and is very little practised in the country. There is, however, still some smuggling connected with laceselling. , and sometimes , female lacesellers are also "jigger-workers." They carry about their persons pint bladders of "stuff," or "jigger stuff" (spirit made at an illicit still). "I used to supply them with it until lately," street-trader told me, "from a friend that kept a 'jigger,' and a tidy sale some of them had. Indeed, I've made the stuff myself. I knew woman, or years back, that did uncommon well at , but she got too fond of the stuff, and drank herself into the work'us. They never carried gin, for brandy was most asked for. They sold the brandy at the pint; rum at ; and whiskey at ; sometimes higher, and always trying for a pint profit, at least. O yes, sir; I know they got the prices I've mentioned, though they seem high; for you must remember that the jigger spirit is above proof, and a pint will make pints of gin-palace stuff. They sold it, I've heard them say, to ladies that liked a drop on the sly; and to some as pretended they bought that way for economy; yes, and to shopkeepers and publicans too. old lady used to give for yards of driz, and it was well enough understood, without no words, that a pint of brandy was part of them yards. But the trade that way is nothing to what it was, and gets less and less every year." | |
From a middle-aged woman selling laces I had the following account:— | |
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In addition to the itinerants there are about stationary lace sellers, and not less than on the Saturday evenings. The best pitches are, I am told, near the Borough-market; in Claremar- ket; the New Cut (on Saturday nights); Walworth-road; ; and , . From the best information at my command, it appears that at least half of these traders sell only lace, or rarely anything else. The others sell also net for making caps and "cauls," which are the plain portion at the back, to be trimmed or edged according to the purchaser's taste. Some sell also, with their lace, cap ribbons—plain or worked collars—and muslin, net, or worked undersleeves. Braid and gimp were formerly sold by them, but are now in no demand. The prices run from to for lace articles, and about the same for net, &c. per yard; the lowest priced are most sold. | |
388 | |
In this stationary trade are as many men and youths as women and girls. woman, who had known street-selling for upwards of years, said she could not do half so well now as she could years ago, for the cheaper things got the cheaper people would have them. "Why, year ago," she exclaimed, "I bought a lot of 'leno' cheap—it was just about going out of fashion for caps then, I think—and Saturday night in the Cut, I cleared on it. I don't clear that in a fortnight now. I have sold to women of the town, as far as I've known them to be of that sort, but very seldom. It's not often you'll catch using a needle for theirselves. They do use their needles, I know. You can see some of them sewing at their doors and windows in , Waterloo-road, or could lately— for I haven't passed that way for some time—but I believe it's all for money down, for the slopshops. It suits the slop-shops to get work cheap anyway; and it suits the women to have some sort of occupation, which they needn't depend upon for their living." | |
The stationary lace sellers, for the most part, display their goods on stalls, but some spread them on a board, or on matting on the ground. Some of the men gather an audience by shouting out, " yards a penny, edging!" As at this rate the lace-seller would only clear in a dozen yards, the cry is merely uttered to attract attention. A few who patter at the trade—but far fewer than was once the case—give short measure. man, who occasionally sold lace, told me, that when he was compelled to sell for "next to no profit, and a hungry Sunday coming," he gave good shop measure, full inches to a yard. His yard wand was the correct length, "but I can do it, sir," he said with some exultation, "by palming," and he gave a jerk to his fingers, to show how he caught in the lace, and "clipped it short." | |
Calculating that persons in this trade each take weekly, the profit being about cent. per cent., we find expended in the streets in lace and similar commodities. | |