London Labour and the London Poor, Volume 1
Mayhew, Henry
1861
Of the Street-Sellers of Gingerbread- Nuts, &c.
THE sale of gingerbread, as I have previously observed, was much more extensive in the | |
200 | streets than it is at present. Indeed, what was formerly known in the trade as "toy" gingerbread is now unseen in the streets, except occasionally, and that only when the whole has not been sold at the neighbouring fairs, at which it is still offered. But, even at these fairs, the principal, and sometimes the only, toy gingerbread that is vended is the "cock in breeches;" a formidable-looking bird, with his nether garments of gold. or years ago, "king George on horseback" was popular in gingerbread. His Majesty, wearing a gilt crown, gilt spurs, and a gilt sword, bestrode the gilt saddle of his steed, and was eaten with great relish by his juvenile subjects. There were also sheep, and dogs, and other animals, all adorned in a similar manner, and looking as if they had been formed in close and faithful imitation of children's attempts at cattle drawing. These edible toys were then sold in "white," as well as in "brown" gingerbread, the white being the same in all other respects as the brown, except that a portion of sugar was used in its composition instead of treacle. |
There are now only men in London who make their own gingerbread-nuts for sale in the streets. This preparation of gingerbread is called by the street-sellers, after a common elliptical fashion, merely "nuts." From the most experienced man in the street trade I had the following account: he was an intelligent, well-mannered, and well-spoken man, and when he laughed or smiled, had what may be best described as a pleasant look. After he had initiated me into the art and mystery of gingerbread making—which I shall detail separately —he said, | |
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To make about lbs. of the gingerbread-nuts sold by my informant, takes lbs. of treacle, ; lbs. of flour, ; lb. of ginger, ; and lb. of allspice, From to dozen of small nuts go to the pound. This quantity, at a penny, reckoning dozen to a pound, realises about per pound; or about for an outlay of The expense of baking, however, and of "appurtenances," reduces the profit to little more than cent. per cent. | |
The other nut-sellers in the streets vend the "almond nuts." Of these vendors there are not less than ; of them, buy their goods of the bakers (what they sell for costing them ), and the other make their own. The materials are the same as those of the gingerbread, with the addition of lbs. of butter, per lb.; lb. of almonds, ; and lbs. of volatile salts, Out of this material, lbs. of "almond nuts" may be made. A split almond is placed in the centre of each of these nuts; and, as they are times as large as the gingerbread nuts, a penny is the price. To sell dozen a day—and so clearing —is accounted a "very tidy day's work." With the drawback of wet weather, the average weekly earnings of the almond nut-sellers are, perhaps, the same as the gingerbread nut man's— weekly. These almond nut-sellers are, for the most part, itinerant, their localities of sale being the same as in the "cake and tart" line. They carry their goods, neatly done up in paper, on trays slung from the shoulder. The gingerbreadnuts are carried in a large basket, and are ready packed in paper bags. | |
Some of the "almond" men call at the public-houses, but the sale in such places is very small. Most of those who make their own nuts have been brought up as bakers—a class of workmen who seem to resort and adapt themselves to a street trade more readily than others. The nuts are baked in the usual way, spread on tin trays. To erect a proper oven for the purpose costs about , but most of the men hire the use of . | |
I have already specified the materials required to make lb. of gingerbread nuts, the cost being To that, the capital required to start in the business must be added, and this consists of basket, ; baize cloth, ; pan for dough, ; rolling-pin, , and baking-tins, In all about To begin in a small way in the "almond" line, buying the nuts ready made, requires as capital: tray, ; leather strap, ; baize, ; stock-money, —in all The sale is prosecuted through the year, but hot weather is unfavourable to it, as the nuts then turn soft. | |
Calculating that of these street-dealers take each weekly (clearing ), we find spent yearly in "spice" nuts in the streets of London. | |