London Labour and the London Poor, Volume 1
Mayhew, Henry
1861
Of the Street-Sellers of Ices and of Ice Creams.
I HAVE already treated of the street luxury of pine-apples, and have now to deal with the greater street rarity of ice-creams. | |
A quick-witted street-seller—but not in the "provision" line—conversing with me upon this subject, said: "Ices in the streets! Aye, and there 'll be jellies next, and then mock turtle, and then the real ticket, sir. I don't know nothing of the difference between the real thing and the mock, but I once had some cheap mock in an eating-house, and it tasted like stewed tripe with a little glue. You'll keep | |
207 | your eyes open, sir, at the Great Exhibition; and you'll see a new move or in the streets, take my word for it. Penny glasses of cham pagne, I shouldn't wonder." |
Notwithstanding the sanguine anticipations of my street friend, the sale of ices in the streets has not been such as to offer any great encouragement to a perseverance in the traffic. | |
The sale of ice-creams was unknown in the streets until last summer, and was introduced, as a matter of speculation, by a man who was acquainted with the confectionary business, and who purchased his ices of a confectioner in . He resold these luxuries daily to street-sellers, sometimes to of them, but more frequently to . The sale, however, was not remunerative, and had it not been generally united with other things, such as ginger-beer, could not have been carried on as a means of subsistence. The supplier of the street-traders sometimes went himself, and sometimes sent another to sell ice-cream in Greenwich Park on fine summer days, but the sale was sometimes insufficient to pay his railway expenses. After or weeks trial, this man abandoned the trade, and soon afterwards emigrated to America. | |
Not many weeks subsequent to "the start," I was informed, the trade was entered into by a street-seller in , who had become possessed, it was said, of Masters's Freezing Apparatus. He did not vend the ices himself for more than or weeks, and moreover confined his sale to Sunday mornings; after a while he employed himself for a short time in making ices for or street-sellers, some of whom looked upon the preparation as a wonderful discovery of his own, and he then discontinued the trade. | |
There were many difficulties attending the introduction of ices into street-traffic. The buyers had but a confused notion how the ice was to be swallowed. The trade, therefore, spread only very gradually, but some of the more enterprising sellers purchased stale ices from the confectioners. So little, however, were the street-people skilled in the trade, that a confectioner told me they sometimes offered ice to their customers in the streets, and could supply only water! Ices were sold by the street-vendors generally at each, and the trade left them a profit of in , when they served them "without waste," and some of the sellers contrived, by giving smaller modicums, to enhance the into ; the profit, however, was sometimes what is expressively called "nil." Cent. per cent.—the favourite and simple rate known in the streets as "halfprofits" was rarely attained. | |
From a street-dealer I received the following account:— | |
"Yes, sir, I mind very well the time as I ever sold ices. I don't think they'll ever take greatly in the streets, but there's no saying. Lord! how I've seen the people splntter when they've tasted them for the time. I did as much myself. They get among the teeth and make you feel as if you tooth-ached all over. I sold mostly strawberry ices. I haven't an idee how they're made, but it's a most wonderful thing in summer — freezing fruits in that way. young Irish fellow—I think from his look and cap he was a printer's or stationer's boy—he bought an ice of me, and when he had scraped it all together with the spoon, he made a pull at it as if he was a drinking beer. In course it was all among his teeth in less than no time, and he stood like a stattey for a instant, and then he roared out,—'Jasus! I'm kilt. The could shivers is on to me!' But I said, 'O, you're all right, you are;' and he says, 'What d'you mane, you horrid horn, by selling such stuff as that. An' you must have the money , bad scran to the likes o' you!' | |
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From the information I obtained, I may state | |
208 | that, if the sale of street ices be calculated at persons , not earning, daily for weeks, it is as near the mark as possible. This gives an expenditure of in street ices, with a profit to the vendors of from to per cent. I am told that an unsuccessful start has characterised other street trades — rhubarb for instance, both in the streets and markets—which have been afterwards successful and remunerative. |
For capital in the ice trade a small sum was necessary, as the vendors had all stalls and sold other commodities, except the "original street ice man," who was not a regular street trader, but a speculator. A jar—in which the ices were neither sufficiently covered nor kept cooled, though it was often placed in a vessel or "cooler," containing cold water—cost , cups, (or glasses, ), and spoons, , with stock-money; the total is, presuming glasses were used, , or, with a vessel for water, | |
Footnotes: [] I inquired as to what was meant by the reproachful appellation, "horrid horn," and my informant declared that "to the best of his hearing," those were the words used; but doubtless the word was "omadhaun," signifying in the Erse tongue, a half-witted fellow. My informant had often sold fruit to the same lad, and said he had little of the brogue, or of "old Irish words," unless "his temper was riz, and then it came out powerful." |