It has been judiciously remarked, that

among the modern works of architecture which adorn and dignify the British empire,

that even with foreigners it has obtained great celebrity, and in any enumeration or comparison of the religious edifices of Europe, is always mentioned immediately after the church of St. Peter, at Rome.

The popular tradition, that a temple, dedicated to Diana, once occupied the site of , has already been mentioned, as well as the small degree of credit which sir Christopher Wren, the architect of the present structure, was inclined to give to the common report.

It may not be improper to mention what Stow, the most accurate of all the historians of London, states on the subject of a Roman temple having once stood on the site of .

Some have noted,

that on digging the foundation of this newe worke (namely, the Lady Chapel, built by bishop Baldock, about

1313

), there were found more than a

hundred

scalpes of oxen, or kine, which thing (say they) confirmeth greatly the opinion of those which have reported, that of olde time there had beene a

temple of Jupiter, and that there was daily sacrifice of beasts. Other some, both wise and learned, have thought the buck's head, borne before the procession of Paule's, on St. Paule's day, to signifie the like: but true it is, that I have read an auncient deed to this effect.

Sir William Baude, knt. the of Edward the , in the year , on Candlemas day,

graunted to Harry de Borham, dean of Powles, and to the chapter there, that in consideration of

two

acres of ground or land, granted by them within their manor of West-ley, in Essex, to be inclosed into his park of Curingham he would for ever, upon the Feast-day of the Conversion of St. Paul, in winter, give unto them a good doe, seasonable and sweete; and upon the feast of the commemoration of St. Paul, in summer, a good bucke, and offer the same at the high altar, the same to be spent amongst the canons residents. The doe to be brought up by

one

man at the houre of procession, and through the procession to the high altar; and the bringer to have nothing: the bucke to be brought by all his meyney in like manner; and they to have payd unto them by the chamberlaine of the church

12 pence

onely, and no more to be required.

bound the lands of him and his heirs to be distrained on; and if the landes shoulde be evicted, that yet hee and his heires shoulde accomplishe the gift. Witnesses, Robert Tilbery,

Thus much for the grant. Now what I have heard by report, and have partly seene, it followeth. On the feast-day of the commemoration of St. Paul, the bucke being brought up to the steps to the high altar in Powles church, at the houre of procession, the deane and chapter, being apparelled in copes and vestments, with garlands of roses on their heads, they sent the body of the bucke to baking, and had the head, fixed on a pole, borne before the crosse in their procession, untill they issued out of the west doore, where the keeper that brought it blowed the death of the bucke, and then the homers that were about the cittie presentlie answered him in like manner; for the which paines they had each

one

, of the dean and chapter, fourpence in money, and their dinner; and the keeper that brought it was allowed during his abode there, for that service, meat, drink, and lodging, and

five shillings

in money at his going away, together with a loafe of bread, having the picture of St. Paule uppon it, &c. There was belonging to the church of St. Paul for both the days

two

special sutes of vestments, the

one

imbrodered with buckes, the other with does; both given by the said Baudes, as I have heard.

Though sir Christopher controverted the idea of Diana's temple, he was of opinion that a Christian church had stood upon this spot at a very early period, agreeably to the statements of different ecclesiastical writers; yet as venerable Bede, in his account of the establishment of Christianity in London, under bishop Mellitus, gives

He also augmented its revenues, and procured for it considerable privileges from the Pope, and the Anglo-Saxon princes, who then reigned in England.

for I will that the church, in all things,

be as free as I would my soul should be at the day of judgment.

In the year , the old cathedral was destroyed by a destructive fire, which enveloped the greater part of the city in similar ruin. After this event, bishop Maurice, who had been chaplain and chancellor to the conqueror, conceived the

vast design of erecting the magnificent structure which immediately preceded the present cathedral;

that men of that time judged would never have bin finished, it was to them so wonderfull for length and breadth.

king William gave toward the building of the east end, the choyce stones of his castle, standing neere to the bank of the river Thames.

The magnitude of the new edifice was so great, that neither Maurice, nor de Belmeis, his successor, were able to complete the undertaking; though each of them presided years, and expended great sums in furthering it. The latter appropriated the whole revenue of his bishopric for carrying on the work, supporting himself and his family by other means. Bishop Belmeis II. following the example of his uncle, proceeded with the work, and his successors

in process of time,

In the conflagration of the city in the year or , the eastern part, or choir of the new church, appears to have been burnt: when it was restored is uncertain, though Dugdale

the grand ceremony of consecration was performed by bishop Niger, assisted by cardinal Otho, the pope's legate, the archbishop of Canterbury, and

six

bishops, in the presence of Henry the

Third

, and a vast concourse of dignitaries, nobles, and citizens.

In the year ,

the newe work of Pauls, to wit, the cross yles, were begun to be new builded.

The upper part of the spire, which was of timber, being greatly decayed, and the old cross that crowned its apex having fallen down, a considerable repair in this part was made in the years and , and a new cross was then set up, in the ball of which, the bishop, Gilbert de Segrave, enclosed numerous holy relics, in the vain hope of preserving the spire from storms. This may be considered as the period of the completion of the ancient church, and years had now intervened from the time of its foundation by Maurice.

In , a beautiful clock, of curious mechanism, was erected. The hour hand, or rather the hand of an angel, revolved past the numerals. If contrived with graceful attitude and easy motion, the thought was singularly appropriate, a heavenly messenger marking the progress of time.

On Candlemas eve () in the year -, in

was fired by lightning, in the midst of the shaft,

first

on the west side and then on the south; and the people, espying the fire, came to quench it in the steeple, which they did with vinegar,

so that all men withdrew themselves to their houses, praising God: but betweene

eight

and

nine

of the clock in the same night, the fire brast out again more fervently than before, and did much hurt to the lead and timber, till by the great labour of the maior and people that came thither, it was thoroughly quenched.

In the year , , the spire was again set on fire, though not by lightning, as at supposed, and as Stow has recorded in his Annals; for Dr. Heylin affirms, that an aged plumber, when at the point of death, confessed that the fire had been occasioned by his own carelessness, in leaving a pan of coals and other fuel in the steeple whilst he went to dinner; and that he had judged it better, for his own safety, not to divulge the real cause, as the flames had got so high before his return that he found them impossible to be quenched.

This fire,

brast forth, as it seemed to the beholders,

two

or

three

yardes beneath the foote of the crosse, and from thence, brent down the spere to the stone works and bels, so terribly, that within the space of

four

houres, the same steeple, with the roofes of the church, so much as was timber, or otherwise combustible, were consumed; which was a lamentable sight and pittiful remembrance to the beholders thereof.

After this mischance, the Q. Majestie [Elizabeth] being much grieved for ye losse of so beautiful a monument,

and for the furtherance thereof, did herself presently give, and deliver in gold

1000 marks

, and a warrant for a

thousand

load of timber, to be taken out of her majestie's woods or elsewhere.

after the manner of a false roofe, and the greatness of the worke, dispatched in so short time, was for feare of raine, which might have perished the vaults to the destruction of the whole church.

the great roofe of the west end, which was framed and made of new and great timber in Yorkshire, and brought to London by sea.

within the sayd yeere, the whole roofe, and frame of the east end, was made in Yorkshire, and brought by sea to London, and after set uppe as the rest of the roofes; but the roofes of the north and south end of the same church, remained covered with boards till

1564

, when the bishop (as I am informed) tooke upon him the charge of repairing them, and for the same laid out

720l.

and so that worke ceased to proceed any further.

There must have been some very considerable defect of solidity in the original construction of this immense fabric, for, in the time of James the First, it appears to have become ruinous throughout; and though large sums of money were collected, and materials provided, it remained in the same state till the elevation of Laud to the see of London. This prelate exerted himself zealously and successfully in favour of the neglected building, and a general subscription, supported in a munificent manner by king Charles, was soon collected to the amount of 104,330l. 4s. 8d. Having thus amply provided the necessary means for an entire restoration of the church, the celebrated Inigo Jones was appointed to superintend the important undertaking. His repairs were begun in 1633, end being diligently prosecuted, in the course of nine years a magnificent portico was erected at the west end: the whole exterior of the body of the church was new cased with stone, and the roofing and lead covering were completed. The vaulting, which stood greatly in need of reparation, was well centered and upheld with some hundred of tall masts.

Such was the situation of the building when the dissentions between the king and the parliament broke out into civil war. From that period so fatal to the monuments of ecclesiastical antiquity, most of the cathedrals in the kingdom date considerable oss; but the cathedral of London, whose citizens had adopted the popular side, both in politics and religion, with peculiar zeal, suffered beyond all example. Having confiscated the revenues of the church, the parliament seized all the remaining money and materials which had been appropriated to the repairs. The scaffolds and centres were granted to the soldier's of colonel Jephson's regiment for arrears of pay, and they removed them with so little caution, that great part of the vaulting fell down in consequence. The choir was still used for public worship, but the rest of the building was converted into stables and barracks for dragoons, whilst the pavement was, in various parts, broken up for saw-pits.

The portico was converted into shops for seamstresses and milliners, with lodging rooms over them; the pillars being hacked and mangled, in order to make room for the tranverse beams that were placed between them. Some other enormities, though by no means the worst, were the subject of the following proclamation, issued during the time of the commonwealth, and dated May 27, 1651.

Forasmuch as the inhabitants of St. Paul's church-yard are much disturbed by the souldiers and others calling out to passingers and examining them, (though they goe peaceably and civilly along); and by playing at nine-pinnes at unseasonable hours; these are therefore to command all souldiers and others whom it may concern, that hereafter there shall be no examining and calling out to persons that go peaceably on their way, unless they do approach the guards; and to forbeare playing at nine-pinnes and other sports, from the hour of nine o'clock in the evening until six in the morning, that so persons that are weak and indisposed to rest may not be disturbed.

Thus this grand and venerable edifice continued exposed to every wanton, fanatical, or rapacious injury, until the restoration of the ancient order of things under Charles the Second, when the regular government of the church having been re-established, the dean and chapter proceeded immediately to remove the incroachments, and to restore the stalls and other appendages of cathedral worship; but their revenues not affording the means for a general reparation without liberal assistance, another subscription was solicited and received, and the repairs were re-commenced in 1663. Sir John Denham, the surveyor-general, had the superintendence of the works; but it appears, from the Parentalia, that sir Christopher, then doctor Wren, was employed to make a survey of the building, the result of which is given in an elaborate report contained in the work referred to. In that paper, the architect, after remarking on the original bad construction of the body of the church, and recommending a new and massy casing of stone, pronounces a final condemnation upon the tower, which, together with the adjacent parts, he represents as such a heap of deformities that no judicious architect mill think it corrigible, by any expense that can be laid out upon the dressing it, but that it will remain unworthy the rest of the work, infirm and tottering. He therefore proposes a bold alteration of the primitive form, by cutting off the inner corners of the cross, to render the middle part into a spacious dome or rotunda, with a cupola or hemispherical roof; and upon this cupola for the outward ornament, a lantern with aspiring top to rise proportionably, but not to that unnecessary height of the former spire.

This proposal of the great architect does not appear to have been much approved by his employers, and the public opinion was expressed strongly for retaining the tower in th ancient form; but the great fire of London occurring in 1666, at length decided the question. Again this unfortunate building became a prey to the flames, which consuming the roof and precipitating the vaulting, weakened, cracked and ruined the walls and piers in such a manner, that they were judged incapable of repair. Still some years of irresolution and fruitless labour elapsed, till it was finally determined to erect a new cathedral, in a style worthy of the nation and of the occasion.

The ancient church was cruciform in plan, consisting of a body with north and south aisles, having square towers attached to the north and south sides of the west front, the southern being the steeple of the parochial church of St. Gregory, which was also attached to the cathedral. A quadrangular cloister was erected on the south side of the nave, of its sides being formed by the walls of the nave, and another by the west wall of the south transept. In the centre of the inclosed area was an octangular chapter house. At the intersection of the transept with the nave and choir rose a square tower; behind the altar rails was a space often met with in ancient churches, called the presbyterium, and here the

new work,

From the accurate engravings which have been left of the old church by Wenceslaus Hollar, we are enabled to give a summary view of the architecture. In the view taken before the repairs in the early part of the century, the exterior is shewn to have possessed many elegant specimens of architecture. St. Gregory's church has mullioned windows, the walls are embattled, and the square tower ends in a dwarf spire. The windows of the south aisle of the cathedral appear to have been the workmanship of the century, at which time great alterations had been made in the building. The buttresses were carved up pilaster fashion, as in all Norman buildings, shewing that the original wall still remained, and the transept had a splendid window of the above date in its south wall. The alterations which took place under the direction of Inigo Jones amounted to a total modernization of the nave and transepts, and though the architect certainly introduced some fine architecture in his improvements, the want of character, and the absurd mixture of Italian architecture with the old pointed style, destroyed the effect of both.

The west front of had a portico before the entrances of the Corinthian order, consisting of columns and pilasters, sustaining an entablature and ballustrade. of the

In the wall above the portico were circular headed windows, over which was a block cornice; a circular window occupied the gable, and obelisks, on pedestals, were applied to the angles, The portico may be regarded as a fine specimen of Italian architecture, but its beauties were lost by its connection with the wall above. The west front of St. Gregory's church had a Venetian window substituted for the original mullioned . The towers which flanked this front of the cathedral, were raised in height by the addition of an octagonal story and dwarf spire, which possessed considerable claims for approbation. The south side of the cathedral was completely modernized. The windows in St. Gregory's church were changed from pointed into Venetian; the buttresses of the cathedral converted into pilasters, finished with balls; the mullions and tracery of the windows destroyed, and modern ones with semicircular heads, having a cherub's head carved on the key-stone, which, with the addition of consoles supported a square cornice above the window, similar to numerous examples in the churches of sir Christopher Wren substituted in their place. The clerestory windows were also altered into semicircular headed windows; the walls were covered with a new ashlaring, and finished with a block cornice and parapets. The transept had a new south front, with heavy buttresses and trusses in an anomalous style of architecture, neither assimilating with the ancient or modern works. The window was destroyed and circular headed windows in series supplied its place.

The doorway was arched and accompanied with pilasters. The west side of the transept was altered in a style corresponding with the nave.

The choir still retained its pristine features. The windows were pointed and filled with mullions and tracery, in the taste of the century, showing how much ornamental work had been then added to the recently erected structure, the buttresses were finished with pinnacles, and united to the choir by flying arches. The flying buttresses built to counteract the weight of the spire, were worthy of attention; the tower had lancet shaped windows in the taste of the period when it was erected.

The north side of the nave had been modernized in the same style as the south, and the whole of this view of the church corresponded in its main features with the opposite . Between several of the buttresses of the choir on both sides were small vestries, or chapels, which only occupied the recessed space of the buttresses. The eastern side of the transept shewed the original architecture of the century, in the windows of the aisle the clerestory had been partially modernized.

The east end of the church, at the period of the fire, appears to have been nearly in the same highly ornamented state, to which it was brought by the additions of the century. It was a beautiful architectural composition. In the basement were seen windows, which served to light the crypt and its subchapels. The windows of the superstructure greatly resembled the south transept of , a series of arched openings extended along the entire wall, over which was a large Catharine wheel carved in rich and resplendent tracery and inscribed in a circle, the angles being occupied by circles. Above this window was a gallery with a parapet, pierced with quarterfoils. In the gable above the gallery, was a window occupied by tracery. The ailes which were separated from the central division by buttresses, ending on pinnacles, had windows similar to their sides.

The cloisters were made in height into stories ; the lower was occupied by an arcade, the upper contained a series of windows, upon the whole displaying a rich example of the pointed style.

The interior of the cathedral, in splendour equalled, if it did not surpass, any church in England; of its best features was an uninterrupted view from west to east of the grand roof.

The nave was in height made into stories; the story consisted of an arcade of considerable altitude, composed of semicircular arches sustained on lofty pillars surrounded with smaller columns. The , or gallery story, consisted of single arches of the same breadth as the lower ones, but of less height, sustained on clustered columns. The inner column of the main pillar was carried up to sustain the roof. The upper story and vault

The upper story and vault were additions of the same period as that in which the central tower was erected. The perspective was beautiful, comprising a vista of nearly feet, bounded by the splendid window in the eastern wall. The aisles retained a portion of the original Norman architecture; below the windows was a small arcade of semicircular arches, sustained on Norman columns. The screen to the choir was a beautiful composition of the century; it was rich in canopied niches and pannelling in the finest style of pointed architecture. The choir, as well in the ensemble as the detail, strikingly resembled the nave of . The upright of the walls was made into stories like the nave, but all trace of Norman architecture had been removed. The story shewed a lofty arcade of acutely pointed arches sustained on clustered columns. The vaulting consisted of diagonal ribs springing from the side walls, and uniting with principal rib, continued along the whole vault at the crown of the arch with bosses at the points of juncture, being a counterpart of the nave of . The style of architecture shewed a building of the century ornamented in the style of the succeeding . The stalls displayed that mixture of pointed and Grecian architecture which marked the early part of the century. Behind the altar screen the same style of building was continued; this portion was styled the

new work,

It will be seen from the foregoing description, that the excellent series of engravings by Hollar, allow of a complete idea being formed of the style and arrangement of the ancient cathedral. The whole of the superstructure, like the cathedral at Canterbury, was raised on arched vaults, which comprised not only many chapels, but the parochial church of St. Faith. Of this part Hollar has left a splendid engraving; from which it appears to have been a strongly vaulted building of the century, the ribs of the vault springing from massive pillars and the arches acutely pointed. It was separated from the remainder of the crypt by a pierced screen richly ornamented with carving in open work.

When the spire was rebuilt, in the year , an exact measurement was taken of the church, and this was copied by Dugdale from a brass table that was anciently affixed against a pillar in the choir. The entire length of the building was then feet; the

The tablet being itself a curiosity, a translation of the Latin inscription is added; it was affixed to a column near the tomb of the duke of Lancaster.

The church of St. Paul, London, contains within its limits

three

acres of land and a half.

One

rood and a half, and

six

perches, covered. The length of the same church contains DCLXXXX feet. The breadth of the same church contains cxxx feet. The height of the western dome (vault) contains from the altar CIJ feet. The height of the dome (vault) of the new building contains from the altar LXXXVIIJ feet. The whole pile of the church contains in height, CL feet, with the cross. The height of the stone fabric of the belfry of the same church, contains from the level CCLX feet The height of the wooden fabric of the same belfry contains CCLXXIIIJ feet. But, altogether, it does not exceed

five hundred and twenty

feet. Also the ball of the same belfry is copper, and contains, if it were vacant,

ten

bushels of corn. The rotundity of which contains XXXVJ inches of diameter, which make

three

feet. The surface of which, if it were perfectly round, ought to contain

four thousand

LXVIJ inches, which make XXVIIJ square feet, and the

fourth

part of

one

square foot. The staff of the cross of the same belfry, contains in height xv feet The cross beam of which contains

six

feet. In which cross, in the year of our Lord,

one thousand

CCCXXXIX, on the XIth of the Kalend of August, namely, on the feast of Saint Mary Magdalene, many precious reliques of several saints were deposited with great solemnity of procession, for the preservation of the same cross, and the whole building beneath them, that the Almighty God, through the glorious merits of all the saints, whose reliques are contained in that cross, might deign to preserve them from tempest and peril, under his protection. Of whose mercy to all the XXVIJ procuring succour to the fabric of this church, CL days are set apart at every time of the year, besides the Roman ordnances, which are XLIIIJ in the year, and many other benefits.

It is impossible to particularize, within the necessary limits of this work, the vast variety of chapels, chantries, shrines, monuments, and ecclesiastical ornaments and vestments, that were to be found within the old cathedral. This, however, is the less to be regretted, as a very full and interesting account, illustrated by numerous excellent engravings, by Hollar, may be seen in Dugdale's history. Some of the chapels and monuments were in the most beautiful style of the pointed architecture. The screen, also, which separated the nave from the choir, was in a similar taste, and remarkably elegant, being enriched with canopied niches and statues. The statues which last adorned this screen, had been executed at the expense of that eminent citizen sir Paul Pindar.

The ancient mode of worship was celebrated in with great magnificence, and the numerous altars were richly adorned. Various statues of the Virgin, and of different saints, stood also in divers parts of the church, and frequent oblations were made before them.

glorious image of the Blessed Virgin,

the truly penitent, and confessed of their sins,

placed in a tabernacle of wood,

The number of chantry chapels amounted to : of these, full particulars, with the names of the founders, &c. may be seen in Dugdale's history. There were likewise no fewer than endowed anniversary obits. Mr. Brayley observes, that these facts, when combined with the various saints' chapels, and altars, lead to the inference, that the priests belonging to this cathedral, including the regular establishment, could hardly be fewer than .

Among the splendid treasures of this church, as given by Dugdale, from an inventory taken in , and which occupies folio pages of the Monasticon, were the following : morses of gold, of silver; of copper, gilt, and of wood, plated with silver; all of them, richly embellished with jewels: pair of silver phials, or cruets; silver ampuls; silver chrismatory; pair of silver candlesticks; a silver cup, gilt, with

Under the ancient form of worship in , it was the custom, annually, to choose an , or boy-bishop, who assumed the state and attire of a bishop, and whose rule continued from St. Nicholas's day () to that of the Holy Innocents, .

The boys of were famous for acting mysteries, or holy plays; and were also among the very of those who performed the more regular dramas. So early as the year , or of Richard the , they petitioned the king to prohibit some ignorant and

inexpert people from presenting the History of the Old Testament, to the great prejudice of the said clergy, who have been at great expense in order to represent it publicly at Christmas.

of the most remarkable occurrences that ever took place within the old cathedral, was the attempt made in by the archbishop of Canterbury and the bishop of London, under the commands of pope Gregory XI, to compel Wickliff, the reformer, to subscribe to the condemnation of some of his own tenets, which had been recently promulgated in the articles that have been termed the Lollard's Creed. The pope had ordered the above

This harsh language so exasperated the bishop's partizans, that the duke and the earl marshal judged it prudent to withdraw with Wickliff; yet the tumult continued through the day, and the city populace, instigated by some false rumours, forced the gates of the Marshalsea, in , and released the prisoners; and afterwards proceeding to the duke's palace, in the Savoy, plundered his house, and would have committed violence on his person, had they been able to have found him.

The splendour of the Catholic forms of worship in was gradually abrogated, as the Reformation assumed a decided character. of the latest of these exhibitions was on Whit-Sunday () , when the peace of Guisnes was proclaimed with great solemnity, and a general procession

before the which,

was borne all the richest silver crosses in London, to wit, of every church

one

,

all the parish clerkes, condocts, quiristers, and priests in London, with the quire

of Paul's, all of them in their richest coapes, singing; the companies of the citie in their best liveries; the lord maior, the aldermen and sheriffs, in scarlet, &c.

On the eighteenth of September, in the succeeding year, the litany was chaunted in in the English language, and the epistle and gospel read at the high mass in the same tongue. Within months afterwards () the rood,

with Mary and John, and all other images in ye church was begun to be pulled downe ;

the like was done in all the churches in London, and so throughout England ; and texts of Scripture were written upon the walls of those churches, against images, &c.

In the beginning of the year ,

the privy council ordained that the bishop of London should permit no especial masses to be sung in

St. Paul's

, and but

one

communion at the high altar, and that to be administered during the celebration of mass.

was made for the masse to be put down throughout the whole realms.

The following entry occurs in the journal of the youthful monarch Edward the .-

1549

,

Nov. 19

. There were letters sent to every bishop to pluck down the altars.

with a vayle drawne beneath and steppes, and on the Sunday next a communion was sung at the same table; shortlie after, all the altars in London were taken downe, and tables placed in their roomes.

On the feast of All Saints () , the new service book of the Common Prayer, was used in , and in the other churches of the city. On this occasion bishop Ridley preached a sermon in the choir in the forenoon,

in his rochet only, without cope or vestment ;

he preached at Paule's Crosse, the lord maior, aldermen, and crafts, in their best liveries, being present; which sermon, tending to the setting forth the saide late newe-made booke of Common Prayer, continued til almost

five

of the clocke at night, so that the maior, aldermen, and companies entred not into Paul's

church, as had bin accustomed, but departed home by torch-light.

the upper choir in

St. Paul's church

, where the high altar stood, was broken downe, and all the choir there about; and the table of the communion was set in the lower [choir] where the priests sing.

with other,

church goods

that is to say, jewels of golde and silver, crosses, candlesticks, censers, chalices, and all such like, with their ready money, to be delivered to the master of the king's jewels in the Tower; and all copes and vestments of cloth of golde, cloth of tissue, and silver, to the master of the king's wardrobe in London: the other copes, vestments, and ornaments, to be sold, and the money to be delivered to the king's treasurer, sir Edm. Peckham, knight; reserving to every church

one

chalice or cup. with tablecloths for the communion board, at the discretion of the commissioners.

On the accession of queen Mary, Bonner, the deprived bishop of London, was released from imprisonment and reinstated in his see. Shortly afterwards, the Latin service was re-established in ; and on the full restoration of the Romish religion and institutions by authority of parliament, Bonner ordered the choristers to proceed to the cathedral tower, and chaunt immediately such psalms as were suitable to the occasion. He had before this commenced his

temporary triumph by officiating at high mass, and making a grand and solemn procession of his priests.

The same

eighth of April

(anno

1554

), being then Sunday, a cat, with her head shorn, and the likeness of a vestment thrown over her, with her fore feete tied together, and a round peece of paper like a singing cake betwixt them, was hanged on a gallows in Cheape, neere to the crosse, in the parish of St. Mathew; which cat being taken down, was earned to the bishoppe of London, and he caused the same to be shewed at Paule's Crosse, by ye preacher, Dr. Pendleton.

for that the queene was conceived and quicke with childe.

solemn procession was made of

Salve festa dies

, all the circuit of the church.

with a cross,

two

pillars, and,

two

poll-axes of silver borne before him,

Fratres, scientes quia hora est iam nos de somno surgere

the king and queen had restored the pope to his supremacy, and that the

three

estates of parliament, the representatives of the whole body of the realm, had submitted themselves to the same.

The accession of queen Elizabeth in , again proved propitious to Protestantism, and the church-service was once more read in English at , and the other London churches, by proclamation; and at the same time the elevation of the host was strictly forbidden. When her sister died, Elizabeth was at Hatfield, and on her way thence to town, she was met at Highgate by most of the bishops, who, tendering their allegiance. were permitted to kiss their sovereign's hand, with the single exception of Bonner; the recollection of whose excessive severities induced the queen to treat him with marked disdain. In the following January, the papal supremacy was for ever abolished by parliament, and a general uniformity of worship established agreeably to the new book of Common Prayer, which, on the ensuing Whitsunday () was read generally in all the churches.

On the , the great gates of the west end of the cathedral were blown open in a tremendous storm of wind, which also caused the loss of many lives in the Thames and at sea. In another dreadful storm of wind, on the , the south-west gate was blown open: all the bolts, bars, and locks being broken by the violence of the blast.

The anniversary of Elizabeth's accession to the throne (anno ) was celebrated in London with great pomp, and, after a sermon preached by bishop Fletcher at cross, before the lord mayor, aldermen, &c.

upon the church leads, the trumpets sounded, the cornets winded, and the quiristers sung an anthem;

on the steeple many lights were burned,

I will fetch thee a leap,

From the top of Paul's steeple to the Standard in Cheap.

It should be remarked here, that far more of the steeple, or central tower, was left standing, than is commonly imagined. Mr. Malcolm has quoted an estimate made in 1608, from the original in the archives of the cathedral, in which the following passage occurs:-- The steeple is to be taken down thirty-three foot, or thereaboute, and to bee made uppe againe, and the sides of the same to be repayred betweene the buttresses, which will conteyne 1032 tunnes of stone, &c.--Lond. Red. vol. iii. 75.

This probably refers to some surprising feats performed at different times from this steeple.

When queen Mary visited , as she passed through the churchyard, a Dutchman of the name of Peter stood on the weathercock of the steeple, holding a streamer in his hand, yards long, and waving it, stood some time on foot, at the same time shaking, the other;

and then,

kneeling on his knees to the great marvail of the people.

cost and paines ;

On the marriage of Philip and Mary. when the king and queen passed the churchyard,

a fellow,

came slipping upon a cord as an arrow out of a bow, from Paul's steeple to the ground, and lighted with his feet forwards on a sort of feather bed, and after he climbed up the cord again, and did certain feats ;

It must appear strange to those who are acquainted with the decent order and propriety of regulation now observed in our cathedral churches, and other places of divine worship, that such improper customs and disgusting usages as are noticed in various works, should have been formerly admitted to be practised in ; and more especially that they should have been so long habitually exercised as to be defended on the plea of prescription.

At every door of this church,

was anciently this verse depicted; and in my time it might be perfectly read at the great south door:--Hic locus hic sacer est, hic nulli mingere fas est. It was customary also for beggars to solicit charity even within the church; which was likewise made a common thoroughfare for porters and carriers, as an admonition to whom, the following lines were sometime affixed to a pillar, over an iron box kept to receive donations: All those that shall enter within the church doore With burden or basket, must give to the poor; And if there be any aske what they must pay, To this box a penny-ere they pass away.

The abuses at length became so flagrant, that an act of common council was issued to restrain them. This act, which was dated the , in the year of the reign of Philip and Mary, gives a curious picture of the manners of the time. It states, that

Forasmuch as the material temples of God were first ordained for the lawful and devout assembly of people, there to lift up their hearts, and to laud and praise Almighty God, and to hear his divine service, and most holy word and gospel, sincerely said, sung, and taught: and not to be used as markets, or other profane places or thoroughfares, with carriage of things. And, for that now of late years, many of the inhabitants of the city of London, and other people repairing thither, have, and yet do commonly use and accustom themselves very unseemly and irreverently, the more the pity, to make the common carriage of great vessels full of ale and beer, great baskets full of bread, fish, flesh, and such other things; fardels [packs] of stuff, and other gross wares, and things, through the cathedral church of St. Paul's. And some in leading moyles, [mules,] horses, and other beasts, through the same university, to the great dishonour and displeasure of Almighty God, and the great grief also, and offence of all good people.

The act then proceeds to impose a fine on all future offenders of for the offence, for the , and for the , with nights imprisonment.

This statute, however, must have proved only a temporary restraint (excepting probably as to the leading of animals through the church ;) for in the reign of Elizabeth, we learn, from Malcolm's , that idlers and drunkards were indulged in lying and sleeping on the benches at the choir door; and that other usages, too nauseous for description, were also frequent.

Among the curious notices relating to the irreverend practices pursued in this church in the time of Elizabeth, collected by the same author from the manuscript presentments on visitations, preserved at , are the following:

.

We thinke it is verie necessary thinge that every quorister should bringe with him to church a testament in English, and torne to every chapter as it is dayly read, or some other good and godlye prayer-booke, rather than spend theyr tyme in talke, and hunting after spurr-money, whereon they set their whole minds,

and do often abuse dyvers if they do not bestow somewhat on them.

loadstone under the threshold, To draw in the gallants that wear spurs.

In the upper quier wher the co«in [communion] table dothe stande, ther is such unreverente people, walking with their hatts on their heddes, comonly all the service-tyme, no man reproving them for yt.

The notices of encroachments on , in the same reign, are equally curious. The chapels of the different chantrys were used most infamously. chapel in the chancel, was a receptacle for old stones, and a ladder. Long chapel in the nave received fir poles and lumber, the rubbish of the repairs of ; years had elapsed since they were placed there. St. Katharine's was used as a school-room, and a chapel adjoining Jesus chapel, was let for a glazier's workshop! Part of the vaults beneath the church was occupied by a carpenter; the remainder was held by the bishop, the dean and chapter, and the minor canons. vault, thought to have been used for a burial-place, was converted into a wine-cellar, and a way had been cut into it through the wall of the building itself. The shrowds and cloisters under the convocation house,

where not longe since the sermons in foule weather were wont to be preached,

a common laystall for boardes, trunks, and chests, being lett oute unto trunk-makers; where, by meanes of their daily knocking and noyse, the church is greatly disturbed.

partly formed by

St. Paul's

,

lately used as a play-house,

baked his bread and pies, in an oven excavated within a buttress.

From another presentment we learn the following:--

Yt is a greate disorder in the churche, that porters, butchers, and water-berers and who not? be suffered in special in tyme of service, to carrye and recarrye whatsoever, no man withstandinge them or gaynsayinge them, which is a greate seandalle to honeste mynded men. And boyes (savinge your reverence), p-ge upon stones in the churche, by St. Faithes doore, to slide upon, as upon ysse, and so by that meanes maye hurte themselves quicklye.

The

Walker's in Paul's,

I bought him in Paul's, and he'll buy me a horse in

Smithfield

: if I could get me but a wife in the stews, I were mann'd, hors'd, and wiv'd.

City Madam,

I«ll hang ye both. I can but ride;

That is, by way of punishment, in the cart, or tumbril.

You for the purse you cut in sermon time at Paul's.

In a scarce tract, intituled , printed in , Paul's Walk and its visitants are described in the following whimsical terms; to the honour of the fair sex, females do not appear to have formed any part of the company.

It is the land's epitome, or you may call it the lesser, isle of Great Brittaine. It is more than this, the whole world's map, which yon may here discerne in its perfect'st motion, justling and turning. It is a heap of stones and men, with a vast confusion of languages; and, were the steeple not sanctified, nothing liker Babel. The noyse in it is like that of bees, a strange humming or buzze, mixt of walking, tongues, and feet. It is a kind of still roare, or loud whisper. It is the great exchange of all discourse, and no business whatsoever but is here stirring and a foot. It is the synod of all pates politicke, joynted and laid together in the most curious posture ; and they are not halfe so busie at the Parliament. It is the anticke of tailes to tailes, and backes to backes; and for vizards, you need goe no further than faces. It is the market of young lecturers, whom you may cheepen here at all rates and sizes. It is the generall mint of all famous lies, which are here. like the legends of popery, first coyned and stamped in the church. All inventions are emptyed here, and not few pockets. The best signe of a Temple in it is, that it is the theeves sanctuary, which robbe more safely in the crowd than in a wilderness, whilst every searcher is a bush to hide them. It is the other expense of the day, after playes, taverne, and a baudy house, and men have still some oathes left to sweare here. It is the eare's brothell, and satisfies their lust and ytch. The visitants are all men, without exceptions; but the principal inhabitants and possessors are stale knights, and captaines out of service; men of long rapiers and breeches, which after all turne merchants here, and trafficke for news; but thriftier men make it their ordinarie, and boord here verie cheape. Of all such places, it is least haunted with hobgoblins, for if a ghost would walke, move he could not.

What is meant by the sentence,

thrifty men make it their ordinary, and board here very cheap,

Dining with duke Humphrey.

faire monument

merily professe themselves

serve duke Humphrey in Powles, are to be punished here, and sent to Saint Alban's, there to be punished againe for theyr absence from theyr master, as they call him.

concluded on a breakfast or dinner, assuring themselves to be servants, and to hold diversity of offices under the good duke Humphrey.

when tankard-bearers, watermen, and some of like quality beside, would use to come to the same tomb, early in the morning, and (according as the other) have delivered serviceable presentation at the monument, by strewing herbes and sprinkling faire water on it, as in the duty of servants, and according to their degrees and changes in office.

Amidst so many profanations of this sacred place, it will not surprise the reader to find added to them that of lottery gambling.

The lottery ever known in this country was drawn at the west door of , in . It consisted of tickets, at each, the profits of which were to be appropriated to repairing the havens of the kingdom. The drawing began on the , and continued day and night until the . The prizes were all in plate. Another lottery consisting of rich armour was drawn here in . On both these occasions a temporary wooden house was erected next to the walls for the purpose.

The annexed engraving shews the form of the church and the situation of the tombs.

Among the numerous monuments which adorned the old cathedral, the following were the most curious and important:--

In the nave on the south side was the tomb of John de Beauchamp. It was in the form of an altar, on which was his effigy in complete armour, with a surtout, emblazoned with his arms; his hands were joined in prayer, his head supported by a cushion, and his feet rested against a lion. The sides of the monument were divided into compartments, each containing a quaterfoil, every leaf a trefoil, and, in the centre, a shield of arms.

The tomb of bishop Kemp exhibited a fine specimen of sepulchral architecture of the time of Edward IV. It stood in the north aisle of the nave, in a chapel where service was performed daily. The screen consisted of open arches, decorated with trefoils, the buttresses with pinnacles and foliage. Above was a frieze with angels, shields of arms, badges, &c. finished with a cornice formed of lozenges pierced into quaterfoils. The basement had delicate arched pannels. At the east end of the screen was a circular arched niche, with a pointed moulding over it, on each side of which were small statues. The effigy of the bishop, arrayed in pontificalibus, lay on an altar tomb within.

On the floor of the nave and choir were numerous brasses, some of particular beauty. Thomas de Eure was represented in a vestment, embroidered with niches and saints. circular arches, with rising pinnacles, formed the canopy, above which was a circle, containing a representation of the annunciation. rich niches with saints, formed the border. John Newcourt had an equally elegant monument, with an engraving of the annunciation. There were also similar monuments, with their effigies, to Robert de Braybroke, bishop Fitzhugh, William Woraley, dean, died , Roger Brabazon, canon residentary, died d , and bishop King, exclusive of numerous brasses for the minor clergy of the cathedral.

In the north aisle of the choir were the following monuments :--

Beneath flat pointed arches in the wall, (before which were acutely pointed arches with trefoil heads and foliage capitals, and between the sweeps, circles enclosing quaterfoils,) were the tombs of the Saxon kings Sebba and Ethelred. The sarcophagus of each had a pointed covering fluted, and resting on dwarf columns.

Above each of their tombs was a tablet with the following inscriptions in black letter:

Hic jacet Sebba, rex orientalium Saxonum; qui conversus fuit ad fidem per S. Erkewaldum, Londinens. episcopum, anno Christi DCLXXVI. Vir multum Deo devotus, actibus religious, crebris precibus et piis eleemosynarum fructibus plurimum intentus; vitam privatam et monasticam cunctis regni divitiis et honoribus preferens: qui cum regnasset annos XXX. habitum religiosum accepit, per benedictionum Waltheri Londinens. antistitis, qui prefato Erkenwaldo successit; de quo venerabilis Beda, in historia gentis Anglorum.

Hic jacet Ethelredus, Anglorum rex, filius Edgari regis; cui in die consecrationis post impositam coronam, ferter S. Dunstanus, Cantuar. archiepiscopus dira praedixisse his verbis: quoniam aspirati ad regnum per mortem fratris tui, in cujus sanguine conspiraverunt Angli, cum ignominiosa matre tui; non deficiet Gladius de domo tua, saeviens in te omnibus diebus vitae tuae, interficiens de semine tuo, quosque regnum tuum transferatur in regem alienum, cujus ritum et linguam gens cui praesides non novit; nec expiabitur, nisi longa vindicta, peccatum tuum, et peccatum matris tuae, et peccata virorum, qui interfuere consilio illius nequam. Quae, sicut a viro sancto praedicta erant, evenerunt: nam Ethelredus varis praeliis per Swanum, Danorum regem, filinmq; suum Canutum fatigatus et fugatus, ac tandem Londini arcta obsidione conclusus, misere diem obiit, anno Dominicae Incarnationis MXVII postquam annis XXXVI. in magna tribulatione regnasset.

The tomb of William Aubrey, consisted of an arched recess, in which was his effigy between columns of the composite order resting on a plinth, and sustaining an entablature, in the centre of which were his arms in a scroll, and on either side a winged hourglass and a scull. He was represented with a pointed beard, ruff, and black gown and cap, his left hand resting on a scull and his right holding a roll of parchment. Beneath the effigy was the following inscription:--

Gulielmo Aubraeo, clara familia in Breconia orto; L. L. in Oxonia Doctori, ac regio professori, archiepiscopi Cantuariensis causarum auditori, et vicario in spiritualibus general; exercitus regii, ad S. Quintinum, supremo juridico. In limitaneum Walliae concilium adscito; cancellariae magistro et reginae Elizabethae a supplicum libellis. Viro exquisita eruditione, singulari prudentia, et moribus suavissimis: qui tribus filiis, et sex filiabus, Wilgifforda uxore susceptis, aeternam in Christo vitam expectans, animam Deo XVIII. Julii, 1595. AEtatis suae 66 placide reddidit.

Optimo patri, Edwardus et Thomas, milites; ac Johannes armiger, filii mastissimi Posuerunt.

Beneath was represented in basso relievo, female figures and male, being in armour, and all in the attitude of prayer.

On the same side was the monument of John de Chishul, bishop of London, ob. ; it was a plain sarcophagus, under pointed arches.

Bishop Niger's tomb was plain, of the altar form, before it were pointed arches, and in the back wall pierced quaterfoils. Above the tomb was a light screen of pointed arches, the heads of each filled with tracery of very delicate execution.

Attached to a tablet was the following inscription:--

Hic requiescit in domino Rogerus, cognomento Niger, quondam canonicus hujus ecclesiae S. Pauli, ac deinde in Londinens. episcopum consecratus, anno salutis. 1228. Vir in literatura profundus, moribus honestus, ac per omnia laudabilis; Christianae religionis amator, ac defensor strenuus. Qui, cum pastorale officium vigilanter ac studiose rexisset annis 14. diem suum clausit extremum, apud manerium suum de Stebunheath, 3 calend. Octob. ann. Christi, 1241, regnante rege Henrico 3.

Contigit his diebus dum episcopus iste Rogerus in hac ecclesia ante majus altare staret insulatus, ad celebrandum divina, quod tanta in aere facta et nubium densitas, ut vix alterum discernere possit; quam confestum secuta est tonitrui horribilis concussio, cum tanta fulminis coruscatione, ac foetore intolerabili, ut omnes, qui aderunt, rapide fugientes, nihil verius quam mortem expectarent; solus episcopus cum uno diacono remansit intrepidus. Acre tandem purgato, episcopus residuum rei divinae explevit. Epitaphium. Ecclesiae quondam praesul praesentis, in anno M. bis C. quater X. jacet hic Rogerus humatus. Hujus erat manibus domino locus iste dicatus: Christe, suis precibus veniam des, tolle reatus.

On the same side of the aisle was a handsome monument to the memory of William Herbert, earl of Pembroke, who died, , aged . The tomb was formed by a basement and pedestals, on

The next monument of interest was on the same side, to the memory of John of Gaunt, duke of Lancaster, and Constantia and Blanch, his wives. It was not so elegant a design as some others of the same period. The effigies of himself and his wife Blanch, lay beneath a canopy of pointed pinnacles, which was supported by hexagonal pillars on small pedestals. The whole design, as Mr. Malcolm remarks, was rather clumsy. His spear, a curious shield, and his abacof, or cap of state, were suspended before the monument.

On a tablet was the following inscription :

Hic in domino obdormivit Johannis Gandavensis, vulgo de Gaunt, a Gandano, Flandriae urbe, loco natali ita denominatus; Edwardi Tertii, regis Angliae, filius, a patre comitis Richmondiae titulo ornatus. Tres sibi uxores in matrimonio duxit; primam, Blancham, filiam et heredem Henrici, ducis Lancastriae, per quam amplissimam adiit hereditatem. Nec solum dux Lancastriae, sed etiam Leicestriae, Lincolnie, et Derbie, comes effects. E cujus sobole imperatores, reges, principles, et proceres propagati sunt plurimi. Alteram habuit uxorem Constantiam (que hic contumulatur) filiam et heredem Petri regis Castillie et Legionis, cujus jure optimo titulo regis Castillie et Legionis usus est. Haec unicam illi peperit filiam Catherinam, ex qua ab Henrico, reges Hispanie sunt propagati. Tertiam vero uxorem duxit Catherinam, ex equestri familia, et eximia pulchritudine feminam, ex qua numerosam suscepit prolem; unde genus ex matre duxit Henricus VII. rex Angliae prudentissimus. Cujus felicissamo conjugio cum Elisabetha, Edwardi quarti regis filla. e stirpe Eboracensi regiae ille Lancastriensium et Eboracensium familie ad exoptatissimum Angliae pacem coaluerunt.

Illustrissimus hic princeps Johannes, cognomento Plantagenet, rex Castillie et Legionis, dux Lancastriae, comes Richmondiae, Leicestriae, Lincolniae et Derbiae, locum tenens Aquitaniae. magnas seneschallus Angliae, Obiit Ann. 22 regni regis Richardi 2, annoque domini 1399.

Opposite the last was a handsome monument to the memory of sir Simon Burley ; his effigy in armour lay on an altar tomb, with a canopy at his head, his feet resting on a lion. The front of the tomb was divided into divisions, by buttresses ornamented with pinnacles. The middle division was double the width of the lateral ones, and was surmounted with a double arch, from which rose crocketted pinnacles, the spaces between being ornamented with shields of arms, &c.

On a tablet at the back of the tomb was the following inscription :--

Hic requiescit Simon Burley, banerettus, quinq: portuum praefectus, ordinis garterii miles, et regi Ricardo secundo consiliarius longe charissimus. Connubio sibi conjunctas habuit, ex amplissimis familiis, duas uxores; alteram Staffordiae, alterum baronis de Roos filiam; verum difficillimo illo tempore, cum inter Angliae proceres omnia sub juvene principe simultatibus agitarentur, in tantum nonnullorum odium incurrit, ut parliamentaria auctoritate capite plecteretur, anno Domini 1888. Posteri autem, eadem postea auctoritate, sub rege Henrico quarto sunt restituti. Obit anno salutis 1398.

On the north side of this aisle, beneath acutely pointed arches, the pillars of which rested on the tomb, was the effigy in brass of Ralph de Hengham, lord chief justice of the King's Bench.

Opposite the last, was a monument of the composite order, to the memory of sir Thomas Heneage, knt. chancellor of the duchy of Lancaster, &c., who died , his effigy in armour and that of his wife were placed under an arch. A kneeling female and a child lying on a tomb, were represented on the basement.

In the chapel of St. George, at the east end of the north aisle, was a curious monument, to the memory of sir John Wolley, ob. . Above a basement was represented the effigies of persons, and at each corner was a composite column, supporting statues of Time, Fame, &c.;

On the north side of the high altar, was a monument to Alexander Nowell, dean of , died . In a niche was his bust, in a furred gown, with a cap and ruff, and on each side an obelisk.

In the south aisle were the following monuments, in a niche of black marble surmounted by an inscription and arms, the effigy of John Donne, D.D. (died March ,) in a winding sheet rising from a vase; near this was dean Colet's tomb. It consisted of a plain altar, with a skeleton stretched on a mat. At the corners were pillars, supporting others of the same order, surmounted with sculls. In the upper intercolumniation was an arched niche, containing a bust of the dean, the hands crossed on a book. Above the arch, was the crest of the Mercer's company, and below the niche : COL- LET: DECA: S. PAV: and on either side the following inscriptions:

On the front of the tomb below the skeleton was the following :

Hic situs est D. Jo. Coletus, hujus ecclesiae decanus, theologus insignia, qui ad exemplum S. Pauli, semper egit gratuitum evangelicae doctrinae praeconem, ac syncerae doctrinae perpetua vitae synceritate respondit. Scholam Paulinam suo sumptu solus et instituit, et annuo reditu dotavit: genus honestissimum

Christi dotibus cohonestavit; praecipue sobrietate mira, ac pudicitie: nunc truitur evangelica Margarita, cujus amore neglexit omnia: vixit an. 53, administravit xvi. obiit anno 1519.

Morere mundo, ut vivas Deo.

Near this was a composite monument with a recumbent effigy of William Hewit, esq. .

On the same side was a handsome monument, of the composite order, to the memory of sir W. Cockayn, . On a sarcophagus were the effigies of himself and his wife, covered by a pediment, supported by pillars.

In the eastern part of this aisle, was a heavy Ionic monument to sir Christopher Hatton, lord chancellor. On a sarcophagus was his effigy, in armour, with the robe of the order of the garter, his head resting on a mat. At each end of the tomb were pillars and pilasters, and between them a large arch; above the cornice, niches with figures between composite pillars, with the arms and crests of the deceased. On each side of the monument were heavy obelisks.

Near this was the monument of sir Nicholas Bacon, lord keeper, obit . It consisted of composite pillars, with pedestals elevated on a double basement, forming the support of a triangular pediment, on which were his arms, scrolls, and sculls. The effigies of his wives lay on the tomb, attired in the costume of the age, and on a table above was the effigy of sir Nicholas in full armour, his head bare, and resting on a rolled mat, at his feet his crest, a boar.

The tombs of Henry de Weugham, , and Eustace de Fauconberge, , bishops of London, were situated beneath pointed arches. At the commencement of the outward mouldings of these arches were roses, and above them circles inclosing quaterfoils. That of Wengham was a plain tomb, with his effigy recumbent in pontifical robes, and giving the benediction; over his head was a trefoil canopy. Fauconberge's was similar, except that the tomb had a border of foliage, and was divided into square pannels enclosing quaterfoils.

Eustacius de Fauconbrigge, Regis Justiciarius, una atq; altera legatione perfuntus in Gallia, sub Joanne et Henrico tertio, regibus; quibus ab intimis consilis, et supremus Angliae thesaurarius fuit. Post concessionem Gulielmi de sancta Maria, hujus Ecclesiae antistitis, electus est in episcopum Londinensem, Anno verbi incarnati 1221, consecratus a benedicto, Roffensi episcopo sum jam abesset archiepiscopus Cantuariensis. Quumq; sedisset Annos septem menses sex, obiit diem pridie cal. Novembris, anno salutis 1228. Hic jacet Eustachius, redolens ut Assyria nardus, Virtutem multis floribus, et merits. Vir fuit hic magnus et episcopus ut agnus. Vita conspicuous, dogmate precipuus.Pro quo, qui transis, supplex orare memor sis; Ut sit ei saties, Alma Dei facies. De Wengham natus Henricus, ad astra levatus, Hic nece prostratus jacet, anno pontificatus Ter vix, et Domini mil. sexagint. ils que bis C. Huic sis salvamen, Deus O, te deprecor. Amen.

In the chapel of St. Dunstan, at the east end of this aisle, was the monument of Henry de Lacy, earl of Lincoln. It consisted of an altar tomb, the front being adorned with niches and statues. On it lay the effigy of the earl in chain armour, with a sleeveless surtout. Angels knelt at his head, and at his feet was a lion.

In the nave of this church was a monument to the memory of bishop William, the Norman, though the site of it is not marked in Hollar's plan of the cathedral, neither has Dugdale described it. On it was the following inscription:--

Gulielmo, Viro Sapientia et vitae sanctitate claro, qui primum divo Edwardo regi et confessori familiaris, nuper in episcopum Londinensem erectus, nec multo post apud invictissimum principem Gulielmum, Angliaa regem, ejus nomine primum, ob prudentiam, fidemque singularem, in concilium adhibitus; amplissima huic urbi celebarrimae privilegia impetravit: senatus populusque Londinensis bene merenti posuit. Sadit episcopus annos xx. Decessit anno a Christo nato M.LXX.

Haec tibi (clara pater) posuerunt marmora cives, Praemia non meritis aequiparanda tuis: Namque sibi populus te Londinensis amicum Sensit et huic, urbi non leve praesidium:Reddita Libertas duce te, donataque multis Te duce, res fuerat publica muneribus. Divitias, genus, et formam brevis opprimat hora, Haec tua, sed pietas et benefacta manent.

Near this, attached to a column, was the following inscription, placed there by Edward Barkham, lord mayor, :--

Walker's whoso«er you be! If it prove you chance to see Upon a solemne scarlet day, The city Senate pass this way,

Their grateful memory for to show, Which they the reverend ashes owe, Of bishop Norman here intum'd, By whom this city hath assum'd

Large priviledges: Those obtain'd, By him when Conquerour William reign'd This being by Barkham«s thankfull mind renew'd, Call it the monument of gratitude.

Among the numerous eminent men who were buried in this church without monuments were sir John Poulteney, times mayor, ob. ; Hamond Chychwell, times mayor, ob. ;

Among the abundant decorations of the old church, the high altar, and the shrine of St. Erkenwald, are celebrated as prodigies of splendour, in costly materials and workmanship. The former stood between columns in the eastern part of the choir: it was adorned with rich jewellery, and surrounded with images, most beautifully wrought; over it was a curious canopy of wood, depicted with the figures of saints and angels. Near the altar was St. Erkenwald's Shrine, which rested on a plain tomb, and was enriched with gold, silver, and precious stones; among which were

the best sapphire stones,

The neglected state of the old cathedral during the latter years of Elizabeth, and in the reigns of James the and Charles the , has been already noticed, yet a few additional particulars of the several attempts made to effect a restoration of the building during the domination of the last sovereigns, may not be unacceptable.

In an estimate made in , the total of the required expenditure for repairs amounted to a sum much too great to be obtained by the unsupported endeavours of the bishop and the dean and chapter; and the king at that period seemed wholly indifferent to the deplorable state of the fabric. At length, however, after several years of indefatigable though ineffectual exertions, a gentleman named Henry Farley had the honour to excite the sovereign to patronize the intended reparation.

James, as a preliminary step, visited the cathedral in great state, on Sunday the , on horseback, attended by a numerous train of the nobility, state officers, courtiers, &c. He was met, agreeably to the ancient custom, at the posts and chains, called the bars, near the Temple gate, , by the lord mayor, sir William Cockain, the recorder, alderman, and other officers of the city, and presented with a purse of gold. On entering

In the November following a royal commission was issued for prosecuting the repairs, and soon afterwards a general subscription was commenced, in the progress of which large sums of money were received, and considerable quantities of stone provided: yet nothing of moment was then done ; much of the money was wasted, and the stone was misapplied; some of the latter was borrowed by the duke of Buckingham for the erection of the Water-gate at York House.

After the accession of Laud to the see of London, the business proceeded with greater vigour and effect, as has been already shewn; and under the direction of Inigo Jones, the work went rapidly on, till the breaking out of the civil war threw all things into confusion, and the parliament confiscated the unexpended money and materials to their own use.

of the orders of the house of commons after the abolition of episcopacy was, that the committee for pulling down

all monuments of superstition and idolatry,

the copes in the cathedrals of

Westminster

and Paul's, and those at

Lambeth

, and have them burnt, that the gold and silver with which they were embroidered might be converted to the relief of the poor in Ireland.

that the committee for taking away superstitious monuments do open Paul's church; and that they have power to remove out of the said church, all such matters as are justly offensive to godly men; and that there shall be a lecture set up there, to be exercised every Lord's day in the afternoon, to begin when other sermons usually end, and

one

day in the week.

The re-establishment of the regular cathedral service took place as soon as it was possible for the members of the church to complete the necessary arrangements after the restoration. New subscriptions were solicited, and a commission for

repairing and upholding

After the consumption of much fruitless labour, and the expenditure of . the principal part of which was for the portico, the great fire of destroyed the chief part of the building, and irreparably damaged the remainder. Still, however, the vast magnitude of the work, and the contemplation of the great expense requisite for building a new cathedral, occasioned a lapse of several years, as well as a further loss of considerable labour and materials, before it was finally determined that all attempts at reparation were hopeless. This, indeed, had long been the opinion of sir Christopher Wren, whose sagacious and penetrating judgment will be at once estimated from the following extract of a letter directed to him when at Oxford, in , by Dr. Sancroft, the then dean of , and afterwards archbishop of Canterbury.

As was said of old, Prudentia est quaedam divinatio, so science, at the height you are master of it, is prophetick too. What you whispered in my ear at your last coming hither, is now come to pass. Our work, at the west end of St. Paul's, is fallen about our ears. Your quick eye discerned the walls and pillars gone off from their perpendiculars, and I believe other defects too, which are now exposed to every common observer.

About a week since, we being at work about the third pillar from the west end on the south side, which we had new cased with stone where it was most defective, almost up to the chapitre, a great weight falling from a high wall, so disabled the vaulting of the side aisle by it, that it threatened a sudden ruin, so visibly, that the workmen presently removed: and the next night the whole pillar fell, and carried scaffolds and all to the very ground. The second pillar, which you know is bigger than the rest, stands now alone, with an enormous weight on the top of it, which we cannot hope should stand long, and yet we dare not venture to take it down.

What we are to do next is the present deliberation, in which you are so absolutely and indispensably necessary to us, that we can do nothing, resolve on nothing without you. You will think fit, I know, to bring with you those excellent draughts and designs you formerly favoured us with, and in the mean time till we enjoy you here, consider what to advise, that may be for the satisfaction of his majesty and the whole nation.

Another letter, sent by the dean to sir Christopher, in July, commences with these words:

Yesterday my lords of Canterbury, London, and Oxford, met on purpose to hear your letter read once more, and to consider what is now to be done, in order to the repairs of

St. Paul's

. They unanimously resolved, that it is fit immediately to attempt something, and that without you they can do nothing. I am therefore commanded to give you an invitation hither, in his grace's name and the rest of the commissioners, with all speed.

That this great man had been perfectly steady in his opinion of the necessity which existed for constructing a new edifice, may be seen by the following passage from sir John Evelyn's

account of architects and architecture,

I have named

St. Paul's

, and truly, not without admiration, as oft as I recall to mind (as I frequently do) the sad and deplorable condition it was in, when (after it had been made a stable of horses, and a den of thieves) you (with other gentlemen and myself) were by the late king Charles named commissioners to survey the dilapidations, and to make report to his majesty, in order to a speedy reparation. You will not, I am sure, forget the struggle we had with some, who were for patching it up any how (so the steeple might stand) instead of a new building, which it altogether needed : when (to put an end to the contest)

five

days after, that dreadful conflagration happened, out of whose ashes this Phoenix is risen, and was by Providence designed for you.

At a meeting of the commissioners, in the latter part of the same month (namely, ) a letter from the king was read, which stated that

the ruins had been examined by experienced workmen, who found the walls in so dangerous a state, that they were judged altogether insufficient for bearing another roof, or any new work.

the old choir and the tower to be replaced with a new choir, of a fair and decent fabrick, near or upon the old foundations; and also that care be taken to preserve the cornices, ashlers, and such other

parts to the former work, towards the west, as shall be deemed usefull for the new fabrick, lest they be spoiled by the fall of more of the walls, which seeme to threaten immediate ruine.

The taking down of the parts mentioned in the king's letter

was soon afterwards commenced, under the direction of a sub-committee, composed of the following persons: sir John Denham, Leolin Jenkins, L.L.D. judge of the high court of admiralty, Dr. Sancroft, Dr. Pory, Dr. Donne, residentiary, and Christopher Wren, L.L.D. Savilian professor of astronomy, Oxford.

stony rubbish,

quays and wharfs

hard and substantiall matter;

old alabaster,

beaten into powder for making cement.

The impracticability of restoring the ancient church had now become so apparent, that Dr. Wren was ordered to prepare the requisite plans for a new cathedral; and, in the following year, we learn that he was presented with

100

guinea pieces (valued at

107l.

10s.

) for his directions in the works, and for the design of a model.

In the construction of the model here spoken of both the architect and his employers acted under the persuasion that the expense of the intended building would be defrayed by voluntary contributions alone, and it was therefore deemed expedient to restrict the design to an edifice of moderate bulk. This model, however, though of

a beautiful figure,

good proportion,

convenient choir, a vestibule, porticoes, and a dome conspicuous above the houses,

it was applauded by persons of good understanding, as containing all that was necessary for the church of a metropolis, and of an expense that might reasonably have been compassed; but being contrived in the Roman style, was not so well understood and relished by others, who thought it deviated too much from the old gothic form of cathedral churches: others observed that it was not stately enough, and contended that, for the honour of the nation and the city of London,

ought not to be exceeded in magnificence by any church in Europe.

Shortly afterwards it was determined by parliament that a duty

the generality were for grandeur,

the connoiseurs and critics' with a colossal and beautiful design, well studied, after the best style of Greek and Roman architecture. From that design, which was much admired by some persons of judgment and distinction, Dr. Wren made a large and highly finished model, in wood, with all its proper ornaments; yet, though he himself appeared to set a higher value on this performance than on any other of his plans,

and being laboured with more study and success, and

the preference given by the clergy

cathedral fashion,

the gothic to a better manner of architecture.

the surveyor resolved to make no more models, nor publicly expose his drawings, which, as he had found by experience, did but lose time, and subjected his business many times to incompetent judges.

In using the gunpowder Dr. Wren is said to have acted under the direction of a gunner from the Tower; and he commenced his experiments with the north-west pier, in the centre of the foundation of which a hole, feet square, was wrought,

with crows and tools made on purpose.

put by the gunner, and the communication being preserved by a quick match. or cane full of dry powder the mine was carefully closed up again with stone and mortar,

This little quantity of powder not only lifted up the whole angle of the tower, with the two arches that rested upon it, but also the two adjoining arches of the aisles, and all above them; and this it seemed to do somewhat leisurely, cracking the walls to the top, lifting visibly the whole weight about nine inches, which suddenly jumping down, made a great heap of ruin in the place, without scattering: it was half a minute before the heap already fallen, opened in two or three places, and emitted some smoke.» The mass thus raised, was above 3000 tons, and it saved the work of 1000 labourers. The fall of so great a weight gave a concussion to the ground that the inhabitants round about took for an earthquake.Ibid.

In a subsequent attempt to expedite the fall of the walls, a person to whom the direction of the mine had been entrusted, charged the hole with too large a quantity of powder, through which, and from not closing it sufficiently, a stone was shot out into a house on the opposite side of the church-yard: this alarmed the neighbouring inhabitants so greatly, that the architect was ordered,

by his superiors,

On searching for the natural ground, that he might have a secure foundation for the new fabric, Dr. Wren discovered that the old cathedral had stood upon a stratum of very close and hard pot-earth, about feet deep on the north side, but gradually declining towards the south, till on the declivity of the hill it was scarcely feet: be concluded, however,

that the same ground which had borne so weighty a building before might reasonably be trusted again.

The ancient burying-place, and the various Roman and other antiquities that were found on digging the foundations, have already been noticed, as well as the pit under the north-east angle of the present choir, which was excavated by the Roman potters, and afterwards filled up with fragments of broken vessels, urns, &c. This pit occasioned much additional labour, for the

hard crust of pot-earth,

The commission for rebuilding the cathedral was issued on the ; and on the ,

at the east end, or choir,

put it in great forwardness.

that within

ten

years afterwards the walls of the choir and side aisles were finished, together with the circular porticoes on the north and south sides; and the great pillars of the dome were carried to the same height. During this time the several bishops were strongly urged by the commissioners, not only to contribute towards the funds for the new church themselves, but also to procure subscriptions in their respective dioceses; and orders of council were issued, directing that no feasts should take place at the consecration of future bishops, but that the bishop-elect should pay

50l.

out of the customary expense on those occasions in aid of the work; as well as an additional

50l.

in lieu of the gloves given at the consecration dinners. The archbishop of Canterbury, the bishop of London, and the lord mayor were likewise enpowered to borrow money on the credit of the coal duties; and though further inconveniences were occasionally experienced from a deficiency of receipts, the gradual operation of those easy duties proved so generally successful, that the last, or highest stone of the building was laid at the top of the lantern, by Mr. Christopher Wren, the surveyor's son, in the year

1710

; and shortly afterwards the queen and both houses of parliament, with an immense concourse of gentry, &c. were present at the celebration of divine service in the new cathedral.

finishing and adorning

An incident that occurred soon after the commencement of the work, and was regarded as a

memorable omen,

when the surveyor, in person, had set out upon the place the dimensions of the great dome, and fixed upon the centre, a common labourer was ordered to bring a flat stone from the heaps of rubbish (such as should

first

come to hand) to be laid for a mark and direction to the masons: the stone, which was immediately brought and laid down for that purpose, happened to be a piece of a grave-stone, with nothing remaining of the inscription but this single word in large capitals

RESURGAM.

The general form, or ground plan, of , is that of a Latin cross, with an additional arm, or transept, at the west end, to give breadth to the principal front, and a semi-circular projection at the east end, for the altar. At the extremities of the principal transept there are also semicircular projections for porticoes, and at the angles of the cross are square projections, which, besides containing staircases, vestries, &c. serve as immense buttresses to the dome. The dome itself rises from the intersection of the nave and transept, and is terminated by a lantern, surmounted by a ball and cross, gilt.

On entering into a detailed examination of the exterior of this fabric, the subject that demands regard is the west front, which consists of a noble portico of orders, the Corinthian and the composite, resting on a basement formed by a double flight of steps, of Irish black marble, and surmounted by a spacious pediment; on each side also is a lofty tower, or steeple, the serving as the belfry, and the other as the clock-tower. The lower division of the portico is composed of lofty Corinthian columns, and the upper of composite columns (with their proper entablatures, &c.) all of which are coupled and fluted. In the tympanum of the pediment is a very large sculpture in basso relievo representing the

conversion of St. Paul

inasmuch as the consoles of the cornice occupy the whole of the frieze;

singly considered, may be said to want repose and harmony, are yet picturesque, and their spiring forms not only compose well with the cupola in any distant view, but also give effect and elevation to the western front, to which they particularly belong: nor are they without parts of considerable beauty.

On the north and south sides of the cathedral, at each end of the principal transept, is a grand semi-circular portico, formed by Corinthian columns, feet each in diameter, supporting a half dome, above which rises a well-proportioned pediment, having a sculpture in the tympanum; that on the north side, represents the royal arms, and regalia, supported by angels; and that on the south, the phoenix rising from the flames, before described. The ascent to the north portico is by a semi-circular flight of about steps, of Irish black marble; but on the south side, where the ground is considerably lower, the ascent is formed by a flight of similar steps. It has been judiciously observed of these porticoes, that

they are objects equally beautiful, whether considered separately or in connection with the total mass of the building, which they adorn and diversify, by the contrast of curved with straight lines, and of insulated columns with engaged pilasters.

The projecting semi-circle which terminates the east end, is of fine proportion, and properly enriched with architectural ornaments. The remainder of the vast outer walls of the fabric is of excellent masonry, strengthened as well as decorated by stories of coupled pilasters, arranged at regular distances; those above being of the composite order, and those below of the Corinthian. The intervals between the Corinthian pilasters are occupied by

In the whole surface of the walling, the joints of the stones are marked by horizontal and perpendicular channels; a simple decoration, which, while it gives a vigorous expression of strength and stability, has the advantage of defining and rendering conspicuous the pilasters and entablatures.

The dome, or cupola, as it may with more propriety be termed,

is the most remarkable and magnificent feature of the building.

and thus, by a happy combination of profound skill and exquisite taste, a construction, adapted to oppose with insuperable solidity the enormous pressure of the dome, the cone, and the lantern, is converted into a decoration of the most grand and beautiful character. The columns being of a large proportion, and placed at regular intervals, are crowned with a complete entablature, which continuing without a single break, forms an entire circle, and thus connects all the parts into

one

grand and harmonious whole. It has been said, with some justice, that these columns are too high in proportion to those of the body of the building; as they are indeed but little less than the lower, and larger than the upper order. This incongruity would not have existed had circumstances allowed the architect to construct the main edifice of a single order; but being baffled in this, his original intention, it would have been too great a sacrifice to have given up the peristyle, the noblest feature of the building, or to have considerably diminished the proportion of the cupola.

On viewing the interior of from the great west entrance, the eye dwells with much admiration on the grandeur of the perspective; though, on a more attentive examination, the ponderous masses of its vast piers are found to give a heaviness to the prospect, and the side aisles are discovered to be disproportionably narrow. In its interior form, the edifice is entirely constructed upon the plan of the ancient cathedrals, viz. that of a long cross, having a nave, choir, transepts, and side aisles; but, in place of the lofty tower, the dome in this building rises in elevated grandeur from the central intersection. The

architectural detail is in the Roman style, simple and regular.

The vaulting of this part of the church merits great praise for its light and elegant construction: in this, each severy forms a low dome, supported by spandrils, the base of the dome being encircled by a rich wreath of artificial foliage. This peculiar disposition of the vaulting is noticed in the

Parentalia,

demonstrably much highter

The whole vault of

St. Paul's

consists of

twenty-four

cupolas cut off semi-circular, with segments to join to the great arches

one

way, and which are cut across the other way with elliptical cylinders, to let in the upper lights of the nave; but in the aisles, the lesser cupolas are both ways cut into semi-circular sections, altogether making a graceful geometrical form (distinguished by circular wreaths) which is the horizontal section of the cupola; for the hemisphere may be cut all manner of ways into circular sections: the arches and wreaths are of stone, carved; the spandrils between are of sound brick, invested with stucco of cockle-shell lime, which becomes as hard as Portland stone, and which having large planes between the stone ribs, are capable of the further ornaments of painting.

On proceeding forward, the central area below the dome next

This mode of construction has the advantage of superior lightness, it affords striking and picturesque views in various directions, and gives greater unity to the whole area of the building; yet, on the other hand, the junction of the side aisles in this fabric presented difficulties which have caused various defects and mutilations in the architecture.

which is crowned by a large cantilever cornice, partly supporting by its projection the

all this part is inclined forward, so as to form the frustrum of a cone.

The general idea of the dome was confessedly taken from the Pantheon at Rome, excepting, that in the latter,

the upper order is there hut umbratile; not extant out of the wall, as at

St. Paul's

, but only distinguished by different coloured marbles.

no higher within than its diameter, while

St. Peter's

is

two

diameters; this shows too high, the other too low: the surveyor at

St.Paul's

took a mean proportion, which shows its concave every way, and is very lightsome, by the windows of the upper order, which strike down the light through the great colonnade that encircles the dome, and serves for its butment.

The concave of the dome was turned upon a center, which was judged necessary to keep the work even and true (though a cupola might be built without a center); but this is observable, that the center was laid without any standards from below to support it; and as it was both centering and scaffolding, it remained for the use of the painter. Every story of this scaffolding being circular, and the ends of all the ledgers

meeting as so many rings, and truly wrought, it supported itself; this machine was an original of the kind.

of brick,

two

bricks thick, but as it rises, at every

five

feet, it has a course of excellent brick of eighteen inches long, banding through the whole thickness;

In the crown of the vault of this cupola is a circular opening (surrounded by a neatly railed gallery) through which the light is transmitted with admirable effect from the cone and lantern above, which, in compliance with the general wish, the architect found it necessary to construct, in order to give a greater elevation to the fabric.

In this respect,

Parentalia,

the world expected that the new work should not fall short of the old; he was therefore obliged to comply with the humour of the age, and to raise another structure over the

first

cupola; and this was a cone of brick, so built as to support a stone lantern of an elegant figure, and ending in ornaments of copper, gilt.

Both the cone and the lantern are very ingeniously constructed; and the mechanism of the roof which supports the outward covering of lead, is contrived with equal skill and judgment. The cone is bricks in thickness, and is banded at different distances by a girdle of stone, and iron chains: here ranges of small elliptical apertures, and semi-circular headed windows above, admit the light from the lantern and from the openings round its pedestal. Between the lower part of the cone and the outer wall, at intervals of about feet, are strong cross wedges of stone (pierced with circles, &c.) each of which

supports

two

upright timbers, about

one

foot square, and reaching to the

fourth

gradation [of the roof] in the great arch of the enternal dome. The

second

horizontal timber is the base of the great ribs: under this are

two

ranges of scantling, the whole circumference of the circle; the lower

one

supported by

two

uprights between each wedge, and the other by

eight

, resting on the stone-work. The remaining horizontal pieces in the ascent,

four

in number, rest upon strong brackets of stone, inserted quite through the brick cone. Another series of uprights spring from the

second

row of brackets, which are secured by angular timbers, and the whole, at proper intervals, by strong bands of iron.

The choir is of the same form and architectural style as the body of the church. The east end is terminated by a bold sweep, or semi-circular apsis, with large windows below, and

The prices that were paid for these, and for various other sculptures, in this part of the church, will be seen from the following particulars, extracted by Mr. Malcolm, from the books at .

Thomas Strong, mason, was paid as follows:--

For plain Portland stone-work, of the pilasters and rustics, window jams, architraves, and bosks, 16 1/2d. per foot. For carving faces of impost capitals. 61. each; pannels with flowers and enrichments, 3l. 5s. each; escalops in the heads of the outside niches, 31. 10. Two large compartments and festoons, each twelve feet in length, 451.; 75 great flowers, in the soffits of the five windows at the east end, 15s. each; and 60 smaller, 5s. each. Pendant strings, 3 feet 9 inches in length, and one foot in breadth, 51. each. Cherubim, 20s.; flowers in the architrave, 9s. each. Four festoons, over the two straight windows at the east end, 20l. each. Six festoons, over the three circular windows at the east end, 20l. each. Five cherubim, on the key-stones of the five east windows, at 13l. each key-stone. Three shields, each three feet high and four wide, 7l. each. Jasper Lathom, mason, received for work done on the north side, the door case, and two of the round pillars, the three-quarter pillar, and little three-quarter pillar, and for working and setting 1124 1/2 feet of Portland stone in the bodies of two pillars, the three quarters, and half the architraves of the door case, &c. 1121. 8s. 6d. For the ornaments over the same, 2s. per foot superficial. For masoning one three-fourth composite capital, one face and one half, 16. 6d.; for carving it, 121. A scroll and festoons, 151.; a cartouch under the cornice of the door-case, 4l. Half the long festoons and candlesticks over the doors, 17l. 10s. The capitals of the great pillars of the north and south porticoes, cost 60l. each, for the carving.

The difference between the dimensions of , at Rome, and , in London, extracted from Wren's Parentalia.

In the Gentleman's magazine, the dimensions of the cathedrals are thus stated; but Mr. Brayley observes, with great truth, that there is evidently some mistake in respect to those of , as will be easily seen on comparing them with the measurements given above from the Parentalia.

From a printed sheet relating to , published in , by Mr. John Tillison, clerk of the works, it appears that the general depth of the foundations below the surface of the church-yard is feet, and in many places feet, that

the fair, large, and stately vaults

contains half an acre, half a quarter of an acre, and almost

four

perches.

It was the intention of sir Christopher

to have beautified the inside of the cupola with the more durable ornament of Mosaicwork,

a heavy fictitious architecture,

40s.

a square yard.

probably occasioned by the platform on the great pillars without the dome;

Parentalia

run with lead,

to cover with stone only;

that, instead of placing historical paintings, in a situation where the spectator can distinguish nothing but the most obvious and general effect, some other system of decoration had been adopted, such as the caissons of the Pantheon, which following and according with the architecture, instead of contradicting it, would have defined and embellished its forms.

The best station for viewing the paintings and other decorations of the cupola, is the whispering gallery, the ascent to which is by a spacious circular stair-case, constructed in the south-west projection of the principal transept. This gallery encircles the lower part of the dome, and extends to the extreme edge of the great cantilever cornice, but is rendered perfectly safe by a strong and handsomely wrought gilt railing, that surrounds the inner circumference. Here the forcibly shutting the door causes a strong reverberating sound,

From the gallery upward to the next range of cornice, the surrounding wall is quite plain and unornamented; the cornice is enriched with sculptures of shells, and acanthus leaves, most richly gilt, as are the bases and capitals of the pilasters above, which correspond with the outward colonnade. The pannels under the niches, and the compartments over them, are finely sculptured with festoons and foliage, well gilt; but the festoons beneath the windows, like the flutings of the pilasters, are only painted resemblances, and are now sadly decayed. The architrave and cornice which surmount the pilasters are superbly gilt; as also are the scrolls, festoons, wreaths, and other decorations of the fictitious frame-work to the paintings by sir James Thornhill. The ornamental pannels and roses above them, to the opening of the vault, and the cornice, festoons, shells, roses, &c. in the upper part of the cone which is seen through it, and terminate the view, are likewise highly enriched by gilding.

The circular stair-case, which leads to the whispering gallery, contracts on approaching it, to give room for various passages, through the apertures of which the immense buttresses of the dome may be seen. It communicates besides with the long galleries over the side aisles; these are paved with stone, and crossed at intervals by the enormous strong arches and buttresses which support the walls and roof of the nave.

From the end of the south gallery, the passage continues through the substance of the wall into the northern transept, in the south angle of which, and immediately over the consistory, is the library.

The north and south sides of this apartment are formed by strong piers or pilasters,

whose fronts are finely sculptured into sculls, crowns, mitres, books, fruits, and flowers.

Polyglot bible;

At the opposite extremity of the transept, and exactly corresponding in situation and dimensions with the library, is another spacious apartment, in which is kept the beautiful model constructed by sir Christopher Wren, and before noticed. Here, also, is the remains of a model, designed by sir Christopher for the altar-piece, but never executed.

Westward from the library is a door, communicating with the grand geometrical stair-case, which leads down to the lower part of the church, and appears to have been more especially intended for the use of persons of distinction, but is now seldom beheld, excepting by the eye of curiosity. This is, perhaps, the finest specimen of the kind in Great ; the stairs are in number, and go round the concave in a spiral direction; the base being formed by a platform, inlaid with black and white marble, to represent a star, inclosed by a circle. Here, facing the door that connects the lower part with the church, is a beautiful niche, decorated with grotesque pilasters, and rich iron-work.

In the south-western tower is the clock, and the great bell on

admirably contrived to distribute the weight on every side of the tower,

RICHARD PHELPS MADE ME,

1716

.

The ascent to the whispering gallery is sufficiently convenient, but the avenues contract on approaching the stone gallery which surrounds the exterior dome above the colonnade. The view from hence is extensive and impressive, yet by no means equals the prospect that is obtained at the superior elevation of the golden gallery, which crowns the apex of the cupola, at the base of the lantern. From this height, when the atmosphere is clear, the surrounding country, to a great extent, seems completely under the eye, and even the capital, extensive as it is, with all its dependant villages, appears to occupy but an inconsiderable portion of the vast expanse that lies spread out before the sight. This view, though, perhaps, the finest in all London, can seldom be enjoyed, owing to the clouds of smoke which, arising from the numerous coal fires, almost continually hang over the city; the best time is early on a summer morning.

The occasional gloom and partial inconvenience of the ascent to the golden gallery, which is carried up between the outward roof and the cone, by steep flights of stairs, is another cause of the prospect being seldom beheld; for many of the visitors to the cathedral cannot prevail on themselves to undergo the fatigue, and

The choir and its aisles are separated from the body of the church by iron rails and gates, curiously and even elegantly wrought. The entrance to the choir is immediately beneath the organ gallery; this is supported by small Corinthian columns of blue and white veined marble, for each of which Mr. Edward Strong was paid In front is the following inscription (in gold letters) which formerly appeared only over the grave of the great architect whom it commemorates, but has been repeated here, as the more appropriate situation, in accordance with the suggestion of the late Robert Mylne, esq. clerk of the works to .

SUBTUS . CONDITUR . HUJUS . ECCLESIAE . ET . URBIS

CONDITOR .

CHRISTOPHORUS WREN.

QUI. VIXIT

ANNOS . ULTRA . NONAGINTA . NON . SIBI . SED

BONO . PUBLICO . LECTOR . S

1

. MONUMENTUM . REQUIRIS

CIRCUMSPICE.

OBIIT. XXV. FEB. ANNO . MDCCXXIII .

AETAT

91

.

Beneath lies , the builder of this church, and of this city; who lived upwards of years, not for himself, but for the public good. READER! wouldst thou search out his monument?

The organ is of the finest instruments of the kind in the kingdom: it was constructed by a German, named Bernard Smidt, or Schymdt, (Smith) who, in , entered into a contract with the commissioners to erect the great organ, (and a choir organ) for and, so faithfully was his engagement performed, that it is supposed that a similar could not now be built for less than double that sum. The pipes, the original gilding of which appears perfectly fresh and brilliant, are preserved from dust by a heavy-looking case, with old-fashioned sashes; the glazing of which cost and is formed by

forty-eight

glass plates of chrystal,

two

feet

one

inch long, and eighteen inches broad, at

twenty-six shillings

each ;

twenty-six

others,

twenty-five

inches by

twenty-one

, at

thirty shillings

each; and

two

,

twenty-one

inches by

fourteen

, at

sixteen shillings

each.

into exquisite softness and harmony.

The choir was completed about the year . On each side is a range of stalls, independent of the bishop's throne on the south side, and the lord mayor's on the north. These, though not remarkable for their elegance of design, are most beautifully ornamented with carvings, by Grinling Gibbons, of whose unrivalled excellence Walpole thus eloquently speaks:

There is no instance of a man, before Gibbons, who gave to wood the loose and airy lightness of flowers, and chained together the various productions of the elements, with a free disorder, natural to each species.

The sums paid to Gibbons are thus stated in extracts from the books at , made by Mr. Malcolm.

Payments to Grinling Gibbons for the carvings inside the choir.

For upper cimas of the great cornice, carved with leaves, at per foot, over the prebends' stalls.

The chaptering of the parapet, upper cimas, and member of the corona, with lace and leaves, at per foot.

The moulding in the cistals, member enriched, per foot.

Coping on the cartouches, member enriched, per foot.

The small O. G. on the corona of the bishop, and lord mayor's thrones, per foot.

For the lower cima in the bottom of the -inch cornice, at per foot.

The cima and casements round the stalls, per foot.

The small cima on the top of the imposts over the prebends' heads, per foot.

The hollow of the impost leaves, per foot.

The swelling friezes, with grotesque enrichments, per foot; and the grotesque enrichments round the openings in the women's gallery, per foot.

The scrolls in the partition pilasters in the stalls, per foot.

The leaning scrolls, or elbows, each; the frieze on the thrones, per foot; pedestals, grotesque in the front, each.

The great modillion cornices, members enriched, . per foot.

The leaved cornice on the stone pilasters, per foot.

The Corinthian quarter capitals, each; the whole ones, each.

Grotesque capitals in the choir, each.

Total charge,

The general effect on entering the choir is magnificent; yet the interest is partially destroyed by the insignificance of the altar, and the want of grandeur in the chancel; for though the original decorations were showy, they were not impressive, and are now disfigured. The railing which encloses the chancel is

clumsy and inelegant;

The painting and gilding of the architecture of the east end of the church, over the communion-table, was intended only to serve the present occasion, till such time as materials could have been procured for a magnificent design of an altar, consisting of

four

pillars, wreathed, of the richest Greek marbles, supporting a canopy hemispherical, with proper decorations of architecture and sculpture; for which the respective drawings and a model were prepared. Information, and particular descriptions of certain blocks of marble, were once sent to the right hon. Dr. Henry Compton, bishop of London, from a Levantine merchant in Holland, and communicated to the surveyor, but unluckily the colours and scantlings did not answer his purpose; so it rested, in expectance of a fitter opportunity, else probably this curious and stately design had been finished at the same time with the main fabric.

The pavement, as well of the choir as of the body and aisles of the church, is of black and white marble, neatly disposed, and

The

sullen grandeur,

the restrictions of men utterly devoid of taste,

would never meet with due encouragement in England till it was admitted into churches, where grand religious subjects contribute to exalt the ideas of the multitude to a just conception of the divinity.

popery and the saints were again to be admitted into our churches.

Within the space of years after the above period, another scheme was suggested, and has happily been carried into effect, for breaking the monotonous uniformity of the architectural masses. This was the admission into the cathedral of those monuments of the great deceased, which may, with strict propriety, be denominated national; not altogether from their being always executed at the public expense, and thus announcing the admiring veneration of a grateful country, but from their being raised in commemoration of characters either eminent for their virtues, for their

The decease of Howard, the philanthropist, who expired at Cherson, in Russian Tartary, in , was the immediate event that led to the erection of monuments in this church. It was then suggested by the late Rev. John Pridden, of the minor canons of , that the dean and chapter should be solicited for permission to erect a statue of this excellent man in the cathedral; a requisition which, with the according consent of the late bishop, Dr. Beilby Porteus, was readily granted; but it was at the same time intimated, that as this would become a precedent for future applications,

no monument should be erected without the design being

first

approved of by a committee of the royal academicians,

Though the permission for Howard's statue was granted, that of the celebrated Dr. Johnson was erected. This was executed by the late excellent artist John Bacon, esq. R. A. in the year . In this figure the sculptor has acknowledgedly aimed at

a magnitude of parts, and a grandeur of style,

*a*R *x*w

Samuel Johnson

, Grammatico. et Critico. Scriptorvm. Anglicorum, Litterate. perito. poetae. lvminibus. Sententiarvm et. ponderibvs. verborvm. admirabili magistro. virtvtis. gravissimo homini. optimo. et. singvlaris. exempli qvi visit. ann. lxxv. mens. iI. dies. xiiil decessit. idib. Decembr. Ann Christ cIC.Iccc.lxxxiiil. sepvlt. in. aed. Sanct. Petr. Westmonasteriens xiiI. kal. Janvar Ann. Christ. cIc.Iccc.lxxxv amici. et. sodales. litterarii pecvnia. conlata H. M facivnd. cvraver.

The statue of Howard, which occupies a situation corresponding with that of Dr. Johnson, viz. an angle in front of of the smaller piers of the dome, is also from the chisel of Bacon, who agreed to execute it for the sum of guineas. The Roman costume is again

express the circumstance of his exploring dungeons,

Plan for the Improvement of Prisons,

Hospitals.

Regulations:

a scene in a prison, where Mr. Howard having broken the chains of the prisoners, is bringing provision and cloathing for their relief.

This extraordinary man had the fortune to be honoured. whilst living, in the manner which his virtues deserved. He received the thanks of both Houses of the British and Irish Parliaments, for his eminent services rendered to his country and to mankind, our national prisons and hospitals, improved upon the suggestions of his wisdom, bear testimony to the solidity of his judgment, and to the estimation in which he was held in every part of the civilised world, which he traversed to reduce the sum of human misery. From the throne to the dungeon, his name was mentioned with respect, gratitude, and admiration! His modesty alone defeated various efforts that were made during his life to erect this statue, which the public has now consecrated to his memory! He was born at Hackney, in the county of Middlesex,

Sept. 2, 1726

. The early part of his life he spent in retirement, residing principally on his paternal estate at Cardington, in Bedfordshire, for which county he served the office of sheriff in the year

1773

. He expired at Cherson, in Russian Tartary, on the

20th Jan. 1790

, a victim to the perilous and benevolent attempt to ascertain the cause of, and find an efficacious remedy for, the plague. He trod an open, but unfrequented, path to immortality , in the ardent and unintermitted exercise of Christian charity. May this trbute to his fame excite an emulation of his truly glorious achievements!

In another correspondent angle below the dome is a statue by Bacon, erected in the year , to the memory of sir William Jones,

one

of the judges of the supreme court of judicature at Fort William, Bengal,

Plan of the Asiatic Society;

Translation of the Institutes of Menu,

To the memory of sir

William Jones

, knight,

one

of the judges of the supreme court of judicature at Fort William in Bengal. This statue was erected by the hon. East-India Company, in testimony of their grateful sense of his public services, their admiration of his genius and learning, and their respect for his character and virtues. He died in Bengal, on the

24th April, 1794

, aged

47

.

The base of the north-west pier is occupied by the statue of sir Joshua Reynolds, the president of the royal academy, in the doctor of law's gown, his right hand holding his

discourses to the royal academy.

Sir Joshua Reynolds was buried in the crypt of this cathedral, A. D. .

Joshua Reynolds

, pictorum sui seculi facile pricipi, et splendore et commissuris colorum, alternis vicibus luminis et umbrae sese mutuo excitantium, vix ulli veterum secundo; qui cum samma artis gloria uteretur et morum suavitate et vitae elegantia perinde commendaretur; artem etiam ipsam per orbem terrarum languentem et prope intermortuam exemplis egregie venustis suscitavit, praeceptis exquisite conscriptis illustravit, atque emendatiorem et expolitiorem posteris exercendam tradidit; laudum ejus fautores et amici hanc statuam posuerunt A. S. MDCCCXIII. nalus die xvi mensis julii MDCCXXIII. mortem obiit die XXIII Februarii MDCCXCII.

At corner of the ledge above the pedestal

Flaxman, R. A. sculptor.

The monumental honours for lord Nelson, by Mr. Flaxman, occupy a distinguished place against of the great piers between the dome and the choir.

The statue of lord Nelson, dressed in the pelisse received from the Grand Signor, leans on an anchor. Beneath, on the right of the hero, Britannia directs the attention of young seamen to Nelson, their great example. The British lion on the other side guards the monument.

The figures on the pedestal represent the North Sea, the German Ocean, the Nile, and the Mediterranean. On the cornice are the words Copenhagen, Nile, Trafalgar.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of Vice-Admiral Horatio Viscount Nelson, K. B. to record his splendid and unparallelled achievements during a life spent in the service of his country, and terminated in the moment of victory by a glorious death, in the memorable action off Cape Trafalgar, on the XXI of October MDCCCV. Lord Nelson was born on the XXIX of September, MDCCLVIII. The battle of the Nile was fought on the 1 of August, MDCCXCVIII. The battle of Copenhagen on the 11 of April, MDCCCI.

In a pannel above this monument is a mural tablet in commemoration of captain Duff, who was killed in the same battle. It is by J. Bacon, jun. and consists of a small antique sarcophagus (on the front of which is a sculptured medallion of the deceased) a figure of Britannia on the right, holding a wreath of laurel over the sarcophagus, and on the left asailor, relieved from a naval flag, reclining his head, in sorrow, upon the edge of the pedestal.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Captain George Duff

. who was killed XXI of Oct. MDCCCV, commanding the Mars in the battle of Trafalgar, in the

forty-second

year of his age, and the

twenty-ninth

of his service.

Opposite to lord Nelson's monument, is that to the memory of Marquis Cornwallis, by Mr. Charles Rossi.

The design consists of a pyramidical group. On a circular pedestal (or rather a truncated column) is placed the figure of lord Cornwallis standing in the robes of the most noble order of the garter. The principal figures forming the base of this group, are personifications of the British empire, in Europe and in the east; represented, not as mourners, but as doing honour to the memory of a faithful servant of the state, whose virtues and talents, during a long life, had been so eminently useful to his country.

The figure of the group is the Bagareth, of the great rivers in India; and the small on his right hand is the Ganges, being the right branch of the Bagareth. The Ganges is seated on a fish and a calabash.

To the memory of

Charles Marquis Cornwallis

, governor-general of Bengal, who died

5th October, 1805

, aged

66

, at Ghazeepore in the province of Benares, in his progress to assume the command of the army in the field. This monument is erected at the public expense, in testimony of his high and distinguished public character, his long and eminent public services, both as a soldier and a statesman, and the unwearied zeal with which his exertions were employed in the last moment of his life to promote the interest and honour of his country.

In the pannel above is an alto relievo by Mr. Westmacott, to the memory of captain John Cooke, of the Bellerophon.

Britannia mourning her hero, is consoled by of her children bringing her the trident; while another is playfully bearing her helmet. In the back ground is the prow of a vessel, to mark the work as a naval monument.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Captain John Cooke

, who was killed commanding the Bellerophon in the battle of Trafalgar, in the

forty-fourth

year of his age, and the thirtieth year of his service.

In the south transept, against the south-west pier, is a monument by Mr. Banks in memory of captain Burgess, who gloriously fell in the battle fought with the Dutch, off Camperdown, by admiral Duncan. The faults and the excellences of this expansive piece of sculpture are singularly blended; yet it must be confessed that the former affect the conception or invention more than the execution; which, generally speaking, is deserving of high praise. The principal figures are those of Victory and the deceased, both of whom are standing on the opposite sides of a cannon, near which are coils of rope, balls, &c. Victory, who is a meagre and insipid figure, is in the act of presenting a sword to the brave Burgess, whose statue is finely expressive of heroic animation, but almost literally naked, a slate by far mote befitting the goddess herself than the representation of a naval officer. On the circular base or pedestal, in front, beneath the pannel with the inscription, is an aged captive, with a log-line and compass, sitting between the prows of ships, of which is antique, the other modern. At the sides are other figures, male and female, beautifully sculptured, and in a classical

Sacred to the memory of

Richard Rundle Burgess, Esq.

commander of His Majesty's ship Ardent, who fell in the

43

d year of his age, while bravely supporting the honour of the British flag, in a daring and successful attempt to break the enemy's line, near Camperdown, on the

11th of October, 1797

. His skill, coolness, and intrepidity, eminently contributed to a victory equally advantageous and glorious to his country. That grateful country, by the unanimous act of her legislature, enrolls his name high in the list of those heroes, who, under the blessing of Providence, have established and maintained her naval superiority and her exalted rank among nations.

Above this monument, on a pannel, is a group of sculpture to the memory of captain Hardinge.

The sanguinary and successful action which this monument records, having taken place in the East Indies, where the captain died, the Indian warrior bearing the victorious British standard, is seated by the side of the sarcophagus, while Fame, recumbent on its base, displays her wreath over the hero's name.

National, to

Geo. N. Hardinge, Esq.

captain of the St. Fiorenza,

26

guns,

186

men, who attacked on

three

successive days La Piedmontaise

50

guns

566

men, and fell near Ceylon in the path to victory,

8th March 1808

, aged

28

years.

This monument was the work of the late Mr. Charles Manning.

Against the opposite pier is another large monument, by Mr. C. Rossi, commemorating the fate and gallant exploit of the lamented captain Faulknor, who fell in battle in the West Indies. This intrepid officer (who is very injudiciously represented with a Roman sword in his right hand, and a Roman shield on his left aim, as if intended for a gladiator) is exhibited as in the moment of death, and falling into the arms of Neptune; the latter is a gigantic figure seated on a rock, with a slight portion of drapery thrown over his left knee and middle, and occupying the most central and prominent place in the composition; his form appears somewhat uncouth and his attitude ungracious: below him is a dolphin, and on his left the goddess Victory with a palm branch in her left hand and a wreath in her right, which she holds over the head of the dying hero. The lassitude resulting from the approach of death is well expressed in the figure of the captain; and the statue of Victory has merit. On the pedestal is the following inscription:--

This monument was erected by the British parliament to commemorate the gallant conduct of

Captain Robert Faulkner

, who on the

5th of January, 1795

, in the

thirty-second

year of his age, and in the moment of victory, was killed on board the Blanche frigate, while he was engaging La Pique, a French frigate of very superior force. The circumstances of determined bravery that distinguished this action, which lasted

five

hours, deserves to be recorded Captain Faulknor having observed the great superiority of the enemy, and having lost most of his

masts and rigging, watched an opportunity of the bowsprit of La Pique coming athwart the Blanche, and with his own hands lashed it to the capstern, and thus converted the whole stern of the Blanche into

one

battery; but unfortunately soon after this bold and daring manoeuvre, he was shot through the heart.

The pannel above contains a tabular monument by Mr. Flaxman, in which Britannia and Victory unite in raising captain Miller's medallion against a palm tree. The head of the Theseus, in which vessel the captain died off the coast of Acre, is by the side of Victory. On the palm tree under the medallion are the following words,

St. Vincent's. Nile.

Round the head represented on the medallion, is written,

To

Captain Willet Miller

this monument is inscribed by his companions in victory.

Against the south side of this pier is the statue of lord Heathfield, by Mr. Rossi. It represents the hero in a standing attitude, resting; in the uniform of the times, and wearing the order of the bath. In front of the pedestal, in alto relievo, is represented the British power at Gibraltar, by the warrior and the lion reposing, after having defended the rock, and defeated their enemies.

The female figure, holding wreaths in her right hand, and a palm branch in her left, presenting them to the hero, represents Victory and Peace.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

General Geo. Aug. Elliott, Lord Heathfield, K. B.

In testimony of the important services which he rendered his country by his brave and gallant defence of Gibraltar, of which he was governor, against the combined attack of the French and Spanish forces, on the

13th of September, 1782

. He died on the

6th July, 1790

.

The monument to earl Howe, by Mr. Flaxman, is under the east window of the south transept. Britannia is sitting on a rostrated pedestal, holding the trident in her right hand; the earl stands by her, leaning on a telescope; the British lion is watching by his side.

History records in golden letters the relief of Gibraltar, and the defeat of the French fleet, . Victory (without wings) leans on the shoulder of History, and lays a branch of palm on the lap of Britannia.

Erected at the public expense, to the memory of

Admiral Earl Howe

, in testimony of the general sense of his great and meritorious services, in the course of a long and distinguished life, and in particular for the benefit derived to his country by the brilliant victory which he obtained over the French fleet off Ushant

1st June, 1794

. He was born

19th March, 1726

, and died

5th August, 1799

, in his

74th

year.

Against the south wall of the same transept is a monument erected in memory of lord Collingwood, by Richard Westmacott, R. A.

The moment for illustration chosen in this composition is the arrival of the remains of lord Collingwood on the British shores. The

On the foreground, attended by the genii of his confluent streams, is Thames, in a cumbent position, thoughtfully regarding Fame, who from the prow of the ship reclines over the illustrious admiral, and proclaims his heroic achievements.

The alto-relievo on the gunwale of the ship illustrates the progress of navigation. The genius of man discovering the properties of the nautilus, is led to venture on the expansive bosom of the ocean: acquiring confidence from success, he leaves his native landmarks, the stars his only guide. The magnet's power next directs his course; and now, to counteract the machinations of pirates and the feuds of nations, he forges the instruments of war.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Cuthbert lord Collingwood

, who died in the command of the fleet in the Mediterranean on board the Ville de Paris, VII March, MDCCCX, in the LXI year of his age. Wherever he served he was distinguished for conduct, skill, and courage; particularly in the action with the French fleet,

1 June

, MDCCXCIV, as captain of the Barfleur: in the action with the Spanish fleet XIV Feb. MDCCXCVII, as captain of the Excellent; but most conspicuously in the decisive victory off Cape Trafalgar, obtained over the combined fleets of France and Spain, to which he eminently contributed as vice admiral of the Blue, commanding the larboard division, XXI October, MDCCCV.

Adjoining the south door is a monument by Mr. Westmacott to the memory of and , who were killed at the battle of New Orleans. They are represented in their full uniforms, the arm of the resting on the shoulder of the other.

The statue of general Gillespie is on the other side of the door. He is represented in full military uniform, hand resting on a sword, and the other holding a roll of paper. The figure is very commanding, and was executed by Mr. Chantrey.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

MAjor-General Robert Rollo Gillespie

, who fell gloriously on the

31st of October, 1814

, at the fortress of Kalunga, in the kingdom of Nepaul.

The monument of sir John Moore, by Mr. Bacon, represents his interment by the hands of Valour and Victory, while the genius of Spain (distinguished by the shield bearing the Spanish arms) is planting the victorious standard on his tomb. Victory lowers the general to his grave by a wreath of laurel.

Sacred to the memory of

LIeutenant-General Sir Jr Moore, K. B.

who born at Glasgow in the year

1761

. He fought for his country in America, in Corsica, in the West Indies, in Holland, Egypt, and Spain: and on the

16th of January 1809

, was slain by a cannon ball at Corunna.

Under the west window of this transept is the very noble equestrian monument of sir Ralph Abercromby, who was mortally wounded in Egypt, soon after the landing of the British troops in that country, in the year . This was erected in consequence of a vote of parliament, by R. Westmacott, R. A. about . The brave and able general, who is the subject of this memento, is represented as wounded, and falling from his horse into the arms of an attendant Highlander. Both figures are arrayed in the proper costume of their respective stations: and below the fore-feet of the horse, which is springing forward in a very spirited attitude, is the naked body of a fallen foe. The position of the Highland soldier is well conceived and judiciously balanced, so as to sustain the additional weight of the general without exhibiting any indication of weak or inefficient power. The countenance of the immortal Abercromby, though languid, displays a placid dignity, highly expressive of the strength of mind and undaunted heroism which distinguished his character. Upon the freestone plinth of this monument, and on each side of the principal group, is a large figure of the Egyptian sphinx; and the following inscription is on the circular base, below the principal figures--:

Erected at the public expense, to the memory of

Lieut. Gen Sir Ralph Abercromby, K. B.

commander-in-chief of an expedition directed against the French in Egypt; who, having surmounted with consummate ability and valour, the obstacles opposed to his landing, by local difficulties, and a powerful and well-prepared enemy, and, having successfully established and maintained the successive positions necessary for conducting his further operations, resisted, with signal advantage, a desperate attack of chosen and veteran troops, on the

21st of March, 1801

, when he received, early in the engagement, a mortal wound; but remained in the field, guiding by his direction, and animating by his presence, the brave troops under his command, until they had atchieved the brilliant and important victory obtained on that memorable day. The former actions of a long life, spent in the service of his country, and thus gloriously terminated, were distinguished by the same military skill, and by equal zeal for the public service, particularly during the campaigns in the Netherlands, in

1783

and

94

; in the West Indies, in

1796

and

97

; and in Holland, in

1799

; in the last of which the distinguished gallantry and ability with which he effected his landing on the Dutch coast, established his position in the face of a powerful enemy, and secured the command of the principal fort and arsenal of the Dutch republic, were acknowledged and honoured by the thanks of both houses of parliament. Sir Ralph Abercromby expired on board the Foudroyant, on the

28th of March, 1801

, in his

66th

year.

In the western ambulatory of the south transept is a tabular monument to the memory of sir Isaac Brock, by Mr. Westmacott: it represents a military monument, on which are placed the sword and helmet of the deceased; a votive record, supposed to have been raised by his companions to their honoured commander.

His corpse reclines in the arms of a British soldier, whilst an Indian pays the tribute of regret his bravery and humanity elicited.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Major General Sir Isaac Brock

, who gloriously fell on the

13th of October

, M.D.CCCXII. in resisting an attack on Queenstown, in Upper Canada.

In the east ambulatory of the same transept, over the door leading to the crypt, is a tabular monument, by Mr. J. Kendrick, to the memory of , who was killed at Baltimore in the last American war. The design represents Valour laying an American flag upon the tomb of the departed warrior, on which Britannia is recumbent in tears; while Fame is descending with the laurel to crown his bust.

The monument, executed by Mr. Chantrey, to the memory of colonel Cadogan, occupies the opposite pannel. The design is historical. When colonel Cadogan was mortally wounded at the battle of Vittoria, he caused his men to place him on an eminence, whence he might contemplate the victory he had assisted to achieve. He is here represented borne off in the arms of his soldiers with his face to the enemy; his troops having broken the enemy's ranks with their bayonets. of the enemy's eagles, with its bearer, is represented as trodden on the ground, while another standard bearer is turning to fly. The soldiers who support their leader appear waving their hats in the moment of victory.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Colonel the Honble. Henry Cadogan

, who fell gloriously in the command of a brigade in the memorable battle of Vittoria,

21st June 1813

, when a complete victory was gained over the French army by the allied forces under the marquis of Wellington. Colonel Cadogan was son of Charles Sloane Earl Cadogan, born

28th Feb. 1780

.

Against the east pier of the north transept is a magnificent group of sculpture, in commemoration of major-general Thomas Dundas, who died of the yellow fever in the West Indies, on the . It was executed in , by J. Bacon, jun. and is a very fine and spirited performance. Britannia, with her attendant lion couchant, is here represented in the act of encircling the bust of the deceased with a laurel wreath, whilst at the same time she

is receiving under her protection the genius of the captured islands,

bearing the produce of the various settlements,

Major-General Thomas Dundas

died

June 3rd, 1794

, aged

44

years; the best tribute to whose merit and public services will be found in the following vote of the

House of Commons

for the erection of this memorial.

5th June, 1795

. Resolved,

nemine contradicente

, that an humble address be presented to his Majesty, that he will be graciously pleased to give directions, that a monument be erected in the cathedral church of Saint Paul, London, to the memory of major-general Thomas Dundas, as a testimony of the grateful sense entertained by this House of the eminent services which he rendered to his country, particularly in the reduction of the French West-India islands.

Above this a tabular monument to generals Mackenzie and Langworth. Victory laments the loss of her heroes, while the sons

This monument was executed from a design by the late Mr. Charles Manning.

National monument to

Major-General J. R. Mackenzie

and

Brigadier-General R. Langworth

, who fell at Talavera

July 26

, M.DCCC.IX.

Immediately opposite is a monument by the late J. Banks, R. A. executed , to the memory of Captain Westcott, who was killed in the battle of the Nile. The dying hero, a fine figure, in a falling attitude, is here supported by Victory; whose own position, however, is apparently very unstable, and excites the idea of comparative weakness. On the basement, in the centre, is a bas-relief of a gigantic figure intended for the god Nilus, with numerous naked boys, indicative of the various streams of the river Nile; and on each side are basso-relievos, representing the explosion of the L«Orient, and a vessel under sail.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

George Blagdon Westcott

, captain of the Majestic; who after

33

years of meritorious service fell gloriously in the victory obtained over the French Fleet off Aboukir, the

first day of August

, in the year MDCCXCVIII, in the

forty-sixth

year of his age.

Above this monument is a tablet to the memory of generals Crauford and Mackinnon, by Mr. Bacon, junior.

The sculpture represents the hardy Highlander weeping over the tombs of his fallen commanders, while planting the standard between them. Victory alights, and places her wreath on the top of the standard, to mark the spot as sacred to the ashes of successful valour. The British lion, the imperial eagle, and the shield on which is embossed the arms of Spain, denote that the talents and operations of the generals when they fell, were directed against the French power in the Spanish dominions.

Erected by the Nation to

Major-General Robert Crauford

and

Major-General Henry Mackinnon

, who felt at Ciudad Rodrigo,

Jan. 18, 1812

.

Against the same pier, on the north side, is a colossal statue by Mr. Baily, of the late earl of St. Vincent, in full uniform, standing on a pedestal, and resting on a telescope. The bas-relief represents History recording the name of the deceased hero on a pyramid, while Victory laments his loss.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

John Earl of St. Vincent

, as a testimony of his distinguished eminence in the naval service of his country, and as a particular memorial of the glorious and important victory which he gained over the Spanish fleet off Cape St. Vincent, on the

14th of February, 1797

. He died on the

13th of March, 1823

.

The recess under the west window of the north transept is occupied by a group in honour of lord Rodney, by Mr. Charles Rossi.

The principal figure is standing on a square pedestal, while Clio, the historic muse (who is seated), instructed by Fame, records the great and useful actions of this naval hero.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

George Brydges Rodney

, K. B. lord Rodney, vice-admiral of England, as a testimony of the gallant and important services which he rendered to his country in many memorable engagements, and especially in that of

12 April, 1782

, when a brilliant and decisive victory was obtained over the French fleet; and an effectual protection was afforded to the West Indian Islands, and to the commercial interest of this kingdom, in the very crisis of the American war. Lord Rodney was born in

1718

. Died

24th May, 1792

.

On the north side of this transept is a monument to general Picton. It is by Mr. Gahagan; the design represents Genius and Valour rewarded by Victory. The group is surmounted by a bust of the general.

Erected at the public expense, to

Lieutenant-General Sir Thomas Picton, K. G. C. B.

who after distinguishing himself in the victories of Buzaco, Fuentes de Onor, Cuidad Rodrigo. Badajoz, Vittoria, the Pyrenees, Orthes, and Toulouse, terminated his long and glorious military service in the ever-memorable battle of Waterloo, to the splendid success of which his genius and valour eminently contributed, on xviii of June, MDCCCXV.

Near the north door is a monument by Mr. H. Hopper, to the memory of major-general Andrew Hay. He is represented falling into the arms of Valour, while a soldier stands lamenting the loss of his commander.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Major-General Andrew Hay

. He was born in the county of Banff in Scotland, and fell on the

14th April, 1814

, before the fortress of Bayonne in France, in the

52

d year of his age, and the

34th

of his services, closing a military life marked by zeal, prompt decision, and signal intrepidity.

On the opposite side of the north door of the cathedral is a monument by Mr. Chantrey, in honour of and . The design by the late Mr. Tollemache, represents Fame consoling Britannia for the loss of her heroes.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Major-Generals Arthur Gore

and

John Byrne Skerrett

, who fell gloriously while leading the troops to the assault of the fortress of Bergen-op-Zoom, in the night of the

8th

and

9th of March, 1814

.

The monument to the honourable sir William Ponsonhy was designed by William Theed, R. A., and since his death executed by Mr. E . H. Baily, A. R A. The composition represents the hero receiving a wreath from the hand of Victory in the moment of death.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Major General the Hon. Sir William Ponsoney

, who fell gloriously in the battle of Waterloo, on the

18th of June, 1815

.

The recess under the east window of the north transept is occupied with a monument to the memory of captains Mosse and Rion, by Mr. Charles Rossi. An insulated base contains a

The services and death of two valiant and distinguished officers, James Robert Mosse, captain of the Monarch, and Edward Riou, of the Amazon, who fell in the attack upon Copenhagen, conducted by lord Nelson 2nd April, 1801, are commemorated by this monument, erected at the national expense.

James Robert Mosse was born in 1746; he served as lieutenant several years under lord Howe, and was promoted to the rank of post captain in 1790.

To Edward Riou, who was born in 1762, an extraordinary occasion was presented, in the early part of his service, to signalize his intrepidity and presence of mind, which were combined with the moat anxious solicitude for the lives of those under his command, and a magnanimous disregard of his own. When his ship the Guardian struck upon an island of ice, in December, 1789, and afforded no prospect but that of immediate destruction to those on board, lieut. Riou encouraged all who desired to take their chance of preserving themselves in the boats to consult their safety; but judging it contrary to his duty to desert the vessel, he neither gave himself up to despair, nor relaxed his exertions; whereby, after ten weeks of the most perilous navigation he succeeded in bringing his disabled ship into port; receiving this high reward of fortitude and perseverance from the Divine Providence, on whose protection he relied.

Immediately opposite, a monument has been lately erected to the memory of lord Duncan, by Mr. Westmacott.

This tribute consists simply in a statue of the admiral, with his boat cloak or dreadnought thrown around him: his hands being engaged in holding his sword, which rests across his body.

On the pedestal to the statue is an alto relievo of a seaman with his wife and child, illustrative of the regard in which lord Duncan's memory is held by the poor but gallant companions of his achievements.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Adam Lord Viscount Duncan

, as a testimony of his distinguished eminence in the naval service of his country, and as a particular memorial of the glorious and important victory which he gained over the Dutch fleet on the

11th October, 1797

. He died on the

4th August, 1804

.

In the eastern ambulatory of the north transept, is a tabular monument by Mr. Chantrey, to the memory of major-general Bowes. The design represents the general storming the forts of Salamanca; a shattered wall presents a steep breach crowded with the enemy, and covered with their slain. The general conducts his troops to charge its defenders with the bayonet; the French standard and its bearer fall at his feet, and victory is already secure, when he receives a mortal wound, and falls into the arms of of his soldiers.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Major-General Foord Bowes

, who fell gloriously on the

27th June, 1812

, while leading the troops to the assault of the forts of Salamanca.

The opposite pannel is filled with a monument to major-general Le Marchant, designed by the late James Smith; and executed alter his decease by Mr. Rossi.

The figure of Spain is represented placing the trophies of victory on the tomb of the warrior, at the same time she mourns his fall.

Britannia, seated, is pointing to the monument raised to his memory by a grateful nation, and is instructing her youth, a military cadet, to emulate his brave example.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Major-General John Gaspard le Marchant

, who gloriously fell in the battle of Salamanca.

In the western ambulatory of the north transept, is a tabular monument erected by Mr. Chantrey, to the memory of major-general Hoghton.

The design is simple, and arises out of the peculiar circumstances of the event it celebrates.

General Hoghton, while leading his troops to a successful charge on the French at Albuera, received a mortal wound; but lived for a moment to witness the total defeat of the enemy. The design, therefore, represents general Hoghton starting from the ground, eagerly stretching out his hand, directing his men, who are rushing on the enemy with levelled bayonets; while Victory, ascending from the field of battle, sustains with hand the British colours, and with the other proceeds to crown the dying victor with laurel.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Major-General Daniel Hoghton

, who fell gloriously

16th May, 1811

, at Albuera.

The opposite pannel is to the memory of sir William Myers.

The design is intended to represent the union of wisdom and valour in the deceased, whose bust is placed on the top of the tomb. The figures introduced are Minerva for wisdom, and Hercules for valour, who points with hand to the bust, while the other clasps that of wisdom.

This monument is the performance of Mr. Kendrick.

Erected at the public expense to the memory of

Lieutenant-Colonel Sir William Myers, Bart.

, who fell gloriously in the battle of Albuera,

May 16th 1811

, aged

27

years. His illustrious commander, the duke of Wellington, bore this honourable testimony to his services and abilities, in a letter to lady Myers, written from Elvas,

May 20, 1811

:

It will be some satisfaction to you to know that your son fell in the action, in which, if possible, the British troops surpassed all their former deeds, and at the head of the Fusileer Brigade, to which a great part of the final success of the day was to be attributed. As an officer he had already been highly distinguished, and, if Providence had prolonged his life, he promised to become one of the brightest ornaments to his profession, and an honour to his country.

The entrance to the vaults is by a broad flight of steps in the south-east angle of the great transept. In these gloomy recesses, which receive only a partial distant light from

grated prison-like windows,

Here, in the very centre of the building, repose the mortal remains of the great lord Nelson, a man whose consummate skill and daring intrepidity advanced the naval superiority of the British nation to a height and splendour before unparalleled. The funeral of this hero has been amply described in another portion of the work. The colours of the Victory, the ship which he commanded were deposited with the chieftain who so gloriously fell under them, and whose revered reliques have since been inclosed within a base of Scotch granite, built upon the floor of the vault, and supporting a large sarcophagus, formed of black and dark-coloured marbles, brought from the tomb-house of cardinal Wolsey, at Windsor. Near the tomb of Nelson, the remains of his gallant and much-esteemed friend and companion in victory, Cuthbert lord Collingwood, have since been interred.

Of the other persons buried in the vaults, the priority of notice is certainly due to sir Christopher Wren, whose low tomb in the south aisle of the crypt, is supposed to mark the spot where the high altar formerly stood.

HERE LIETH

SIR

CHRISTOPHER WREN

, KNT.

THE BUILDER OF THIS CATHEDRAL CHURCH OF

ST. PAUL,

WHO DIED

IN THE YEAR OF OUR

LORD

M.D.CCXXIII

AND OF HIS AGE XCI.

On the adjacent wall, at the head of the tomb, within a border

Subtus conditur

Near the tomb of sir Christopher is a monumental tablet, sculptured with flowers, and cherubim withdrawing a curtain, inscribed in memory of the Rev. Dr. William Holder, a residentiary of this church, and Susannah his wife, the daughter of dean Wren, and sister to the architect.

H. S. E. Gulielmus Holder, S. T. P.

sacelli regalis sub-decanus, sereniss' regiae mati sub-eleemosynarius, ecclesiarum S. Pauli et Eliens, canonicus, societatis regiae Lond. sodalis, &c. amplis quidem titulis donatus, amplissimis dignus, vir perelegantis et amoeni ingenii scientiae industria sua illustravit, liberalitate te promovit; egregie eruditus theologicis, mathematicis, et arte musica. Memoriam excolite, posteri, eta lucubrationibus suiis editis coquelae principia agnoscite, et harmonica. Ob. xxivto Jan. A. D. M.DC.CVII. AET. XCII.

Susannah Holder, late wife of William Holder, D. D. residentiary of this church, daughter of Dr. Christopher Wren, late dean of Windsor, and sister of Sir Christopher Wren, knt.

After 15 years happily and honourably passed in conjugal state and care, at the age of LXI years she piously rendered her soul to God the last day of June, A. D. M.DC.LXXXVIII.

Against the opposite pier a small tabular monument commemorates his only daughter.

M. S. Desideratissimae virginis

Jane Wren

, clariss' D«ni Christopheri Wren filiae unicae Paterniae, indolis literis deditae, piae, benevolae, domisedae, arte musica peritissimae.

Here lies the body of

Mrs. Jane Wren

; only daughter of sir Chr. Wren, kt. by Dame Jane his wife, daughter of William lord Fitzwilliams, baron of Lifford in the kingdom of Ireland; ob. XXIX Dec. Anno M.D.C.C. III. ET. XXV.

And adjoining to it is the following memorial for the wife of Christopher Wren, esq.

D. O. M. S. Hic requiescit in pace

Maria Conjux Christopheri Wren

, ARM. Filia Philippi & Constantiae Musard, Foemina omnium virtutum foecandissima. Puerperio decessit X Decembris, A.D.

1712

:

Nearly adjoining sir Christopher's tomb a flat tomb bears this inscription:

In a vault beneath this stone are deposited the remains of

Thomas Newton

, D.D. Lord Bishop of Bristol and Dean of this Cathedral, who died

Feb. 14, 1782

, aged

78

.

The great painters, sir Joshua Reynolds, Barry, Opie, and West, are buried near the same spot.

Here lie the remains of Sir Joshua Reynolds, Knt. President of the Royal Academy of Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture. He was born at Plympton, in Devonshire, the 16th July, 1723, and died at London the 23rd of Feb. 1792. ere lie the remains of John Opie, Esquire, Professor of Painting to the Royal Academy of Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture. He was born May 1761, at St. Agnes, in Cornwall, and died at his house in Berner's-street, London, the 29th of April 1807. *a*r*w *x

The great historical Painter, James Barry, died 22d February, 1806, aged 64.

Here lie the remains of Benjamin West, Esquire, President of the Royal Academy of Painting, Sculpture, and Architecture. He was born at Springfield, in Chester County, in the State of Pennsylvania, in America, the 10th of October 1788, and died at London the 11th of March, 1820.

Within the recess of the window in the south aisle is an altar tomb, inscribed,

To the memory of

Robert Mylne

, Architect, F. R. S. a native of Edinburgh; born Jan.

4,1733

, O S.; died May

5,1811

. He designed and constructed the magnificent bridge over the Thames at Blackfriars. From the year

1762

he was the sole engineer to the

New River

aqueduct, London; and for the same period had the superintendence of the Cathedral, as Architect and Paymaster of the works. His remains now repose under the protection of this edifice, which was so long the object of his care.

On an altar-tomb of beautiful polished Peterhead granite is the following inscription to the late John Rennie:

Here lie the mortal remains of

John Rennie, F. R. S. F. A. S.

Born at Phantassie in East Lothian,

7th July, 1761

. Deceased in London

4th Oct. 1881

. This stone is dedicated to his private virtues, and records the affection and the respect of his family and his friends; but the many splendid and useful works by which, under his superintending genius, England, Scotland, and Ireland, have been adorned and improved, are the true monuments of his public merit. Waterloo and

Southwark

bridges, Plymouth Breakwater, Sheerness Docks, &c. &c.

Under the middle aisle of the crypt is a slab for the Lord Chancellor Rosslyn.

Alexander Weddereburne Earl of Rosslyn

, Baron Loughborough, born lath

February, 1783

. Died

2

d

January, 1805

.

The following memorial is placed over the grave of Dr. Boyce:

William Boyce, Mus. D. Organist, Composer, and Master of the Band of Music to their Majesties King George II. and III. Died February 7, 1779, aged 69.

At a short distance is a neat tabular monument to the memory of

Thomas Newton

,

ESQ.

Benefactor to the Literary Fund. Born

Dec. 21, 1719

. Ob.

6th Feb. 1807

.

The learned but eccentric Abraham Badcock, who died in , at the age of , and the yet more eccentric John Benoist de Mainaudoc, M. D. the upholder of animal magnetism, who died in , Bloomsbury, at the age of in the year , are also buried in these vaults in that part appropriated to the parish of St. Faith.

In the nave of , and round the area of the dome, are displayed numerous flags or colours, that have been taken at different periods by our brave seamen and soldiers from the discomfited foes of Old England. Those captured by our land forces were won from the French, at Louisbourg, Martinique, and Valenciennes: and are generally in a most shattered and decayed state. Formerly, there were several large naval colours, consisting of

There are annual celebrations in this cathedral, of an imprsssive and important nature: these are the anniversary meetings of the sons of the clergy, and of the charity children of the metropolis and its vicinity. The former had its origin in the year , when a worthy divine, the Rev. G. Hall, preached on to an assembly of the sons of the clergy, whose fathers or whose families had been reduced to indigence through the sequestrations made in consequence of non-conformity with the ordinations of parliament. The relief obtained on that occasion, suggested the propriety of an annual sermon; and the promoters of the institution were afterwards incorporated by a charter granted by Charles the , , under the title of

the Governors of the Charity for the Relief of the Poor Widows and Children of Clergymen; with license to hold an estate, not exceeding the annual value of

2,000l.

;

all charges and reprises.

The assembly of the charity children generally takes place in the month of June. The entire circle beneath the dome is by temporary seats and scaffolding converted into an amphitheatre, where between and children, boys and girls, are stationed during the ceremony, and occasionally join in the singing and hallelujah chorusses. The seats in the area, and along the nave of the church to nearly the great west door, are appropriated to the society of patrons of the anniversary, the society for promoting

Christian Knowledge, and the public generally; but none are admitted without tickets. Independently of the higher feelings which such a congregation is calculated to excite, the whole scene is strikingly beautiful, especially when beheld from the elevation of the Whispering Gallery. On occasion, the children were expressly assembled here by royal command; this was on the , the day of the general thanksgiving for the king's recovery. Their majesties, and the royal family, with both houses of parliament, the lord mayor and corporation of London, the chief officers of state, and most of the dignified clergy, were at the same time present; and the whole ceremony was of the most solemn and affecting description.

The cathedral font is of veined alabaster, standing under the arch from the west door between the nave and the south aisles. It is very large, and in form like an oval vase, fluted, with a cover of the same character. It should have been mentioned, in the account of the paintings of the dome, that the highly finished sketches made for them in oil, by sir James Thornhill, to shew to queen Anne, are now in the possession of the dean and chapter, and hang in the chapter room; and that others on paper, in bistre, are preserved in the dean's vestry.

In the area before the west front, within a circular railing, is a statue of queen Anne, in her regal robes, standing upon a sculptured pedestal, at the lower angles of which are figures, representing Britannia, Hibernia, America, and France. This is a very indifferent performance of Bird's, (who received for the queen's statue, and for the whole).

The whole extent of the area upon which stands, is stated to contain acres, perches, yards, and foot. The entire expense of erecting the cathedral was exclusive of the charge for the iron balustrade, which stands upon the dwarf wall surrounding the church-yard. This balustrade, which is very strong and well-wrought, has iron gates, and altogether weighs tons and : it cost

Though was intended to be the grand ornament of the metropolis, there is not, unfortunately, a single point of view from which it can be seen in its entire proportions; and it is from this cause that its effect is much less imposing than it would otherwise be, and that the comparison which travellers make between this edifice and at Rome, is so greatly to the advantage of the latter. The houses surrounding the church are in general lofty dwellings, and so nearly contiguous to the cathedral, that they completely prevent the spectator from viewing it as a whole. The most adjacent spot from which it may be be held with any thing of its due grandeur, is from near the end of , in , but by far the best view is obtained from about the centre of Blackfriars-bridge, whence it appears to rise in all its majestic elevation

Parentalia

be discerned at sea eastward, and at Windsor westward.

[] See vol. 1, page 22.

[] Sur. of Lon. p. 270-273.

[] Besides the gift of Tillingham, in Essex, granted by the first charter of king Ethelbert, he also gave to this church twenty-four hides of land near London, (dedit viginti quatuor Hidas terra juxta Londonium) all of which, with the exception of Norton Folgate, reserved for the dean and chapter, were divided into the prebends of More, Finsbury, Old-street, Wenlock's-barn, Hoxton, Newington, Islington, St. Pancras, Kentish-town, Tottenham, Ragener, Holbourn, and Portpool. The gifts made by king Athelstan consisted of 106 farms, messuages, etc, at various places, chiefly in Essex; king Edgar gave three-score marks, and twenty-five mansions at Nasingstoke, king Canute granted the church of Lambourne, in Berks, pro victu Decani qui pro tempore fuerit; Edward the confessor gave eight messuages, &c. at Berling, and five at Chingford, in Essex; and also confirmed the gift of West Lee, in the same county, made by a religious woman, named Ediva. Divers other manors were also granted to St. Paul's before the conquest, as Kensworth, Caddington, &c. The conqueror, besides the castle of Stortford, in Herts, gave the land of William, the Deacon, and Ralph, his brother, held of the king; William Rufus confirmed all his father's donations and privileges, and freed the canons of St. Paul's from all works in respect to the Tower; two hundred acres of wood in Hadley and Thundersey, in Essex, with fourscore acres of arable land and a brewhouse, were afterwards given by Peter Newport; Draton was given by sir Philip Basset, knt. and Hayrstead by his executors; the executors of John of Gauntgave the manors of Bowes and Peeleshouse, in Middlesex; the churches of Willesdon, Sunbury, Brickesley, Rickling, and Aveley, were impropriated to the dean and chapter by divers bishops; and numerous houses within the city were granted to the cathedral establishment under different forms. Weever states, that among many deeds relating to the latter which he had seen, was one dated in the year 1141, and fastened by a label to the end of a stick, of what wood I know not; howsoever it remains to this day free from worm-holes, or any the least corruption, not so much as in the bark, upon which the following words were fairly written: Per hoc lignum oblata est terra Roberti fillij Gousberti super altare Sancti Pauli in festo omnium Sanctorum. Fun. Mon. p. 356. Edit. 1631. A great variety of particulars relating to numerous other grants that have been made to this church, may be seen in Mal. Lord. Red. vol. iii. p. 35-44.

[] See Strype's Stow, Vol. ii. p. 638. This charter must have been given either in or after 1070, as Lanfranc, archbishop of Canterbury, and Thomas, archbishop of York, are among the attesting witnesses, and both those prelates were not appointed to their respective sees till that year.

[] Sur. of Lond. p. 262; fist Edit.

[] Malmesbury.

[] Previously to this, however, the cathedral again suffered by fire, though to what extent is questionable; for Stow, in his annals, has given two accounts, which are contradictory to each other. Under the date, 1132, he records, that a fire, beginning at Gilbertus house, in West Cheap, burnt, eastward, a great part of the city to Aldgate, with the priory of the Holy Trinity, and westward, to Ludgate; consuming the great church of St. Paul. Yet, in the next place, he mentions another fire, which kindled at the house of one Ailward, neare London Stone, and consumed eastward, to Aldgate, and westward, to St. Erkenwald's Shrine in Paules church. This second fire he has also mentioned in his Survey of London (First Edit. p. 117.) with the additional sentence, in the which fire the Priorie of the Holy Trinitie was brent. Now, had the former fire actually consumed the church, the shrine of St. Erkenwald would, most probably, have been destroyed with it; and if it had not, there is the greatest incongruity in supposing, that the vast fabric of St. Paul's could have been restored within the short space that had elapsed between the above dates, when we have seen, that nearly fifty years had been passed since its foundation by Maurice, and that it was still incomplete. The priory of the Holy Trinity, also, is said, to have been burnt in each conflagration; yet, it is almost equally incredible if that edifice was really destroyed by the first fire, that it could have been rebuilt so early as the occurrence of the second.-Brayley, ii. p. 208.

[] Hist. St. Paul's p. 6.

[] Sir Christopher Wren imagined that the choir was added in after times, to give a greater length eastward and that the original termination of the presbyterium was semicircular. Among the foundations of the choir he found nine wells in a row, which he conceived to have anciently belonged to a street of houses, that crossed obliquely from the High-street, then Watling street, to the Roman Causeway, now Cheapside. Parentalia, p. 272.

[] Hist. St. Paul's, p. 12.

[] Whar. Hist. de Episc.

[] Howes Stow's Chro. p. 191.

[] Leland says, that the Lady chapel was built on ground that had been obtained of king John for a market place.

[] Howe's Stow's Ch. p. 384.

[] Stow's Lond. p. 264. First edit.

[] Ibid. 264.

[] Howe's Stow's Ch. p. 646.

[] Ibid.

[] Ibid.

[] Howe's Stow's Ch. p. 646.

[] Ibid.

[] Strype's Stow, vol. i. p. 646.

[] Chronicle of London, Notes 181.

[] A letter is preserved in Rymer's Foedera, vol. in. p. 1033, which was sent by Edward II. to Bishop Stephen de Gravesend, forbidding him to suffer the continuance of the devotion that was accustomed to be paid to the picture of the earl of Lancaster, which was hung up, among many others, in St. Paul's church; this letter bears date in June, 1823. The earl was grandson to Henry III, and having been engaged in rebellion against the reigning monarch, was beheaded at Pontefract; but he was honoured by the people as a martyr, and was subsequently canonized, in 1398.-Brayley, vol. ii. p. 224.

[] This was done in commemoration of St. Nicholas, who, according to the Romish calendar, was so piously fashioned, that even when a babe in his cradle, he would fast both on Wednesdays and Fridays, and at those times was well pleased to suck but once a day. However ridiculous it may now seem, the Boy Bishop, who was chosen from among the choristers, is stated to have possessed episcopal authority during the above term; and the other children were his prebendaries. He was not permitted to celebrate mass, but he had full liberty to preach; and however puerile his discourses might have been, we find they were regarded with so much attention, that Dean Colet, in his Statutes of St. Paul's School, expressly ordains that the scholars shall on every Childermas daye, come to Paule's churche, and beare the chylde bishop's sermon, and after be at the hygh masse, and each of them offer a penny to the chylde bishop; and with them the maisters and surveyors of the stole. Probably these orations, though affectedly childish, were composed by the more aged members of the church. If the boy bishop died within the time of his prelacy, he was interred in pontificalibus, with the same ceremonies as the real diocesan; and the tomb of a child bishop, in Salisbury cathedral, may be referred to as an instance of such interment. An article in the Wardrobe Accompts of Edward I. evinces that the episcopus puerorum had the honour of singing vespers before the king.

[] Howe's Stow, p. 591.

[] Howe's Stow, p. 593.

[] Howe's Stow, p. 608.

[] Ibid.

[] Ibid, p. 609.

[] Ibid, p. 628.

[] Howe's Stow. p 625

[] Brayley's Hist. of London, ii. p. 235.

[] Howe's Stow, p. 659.

[] Ibid, p. 769.

[] Vol. III p. 71.

[] On the disgraceful uses to which these chapels were placed, Mr. Malcolm makes the following sapient remark!- Shade of Elizabeth! how were these things kept from your notice, when you visited St. Paul's? That you did not see them, I firmly believe. If she did, (and it is highly probable,) she would have cared as much about the desecration as her father did, when he turned the monasteries and churches into warehouses for stolen goods.

[] This practice of converting church vaults into wine cellars, it may be remarked, is not yet worn out. Some of the vaults beneath Winchester cathedral are now, or were lately, used for that purpose.

[] Malcolm, vol. iii. p 71-73.

[] The young gallants from the inns of court, the western and the northern parts of the metropolis, and those that had spirit enough to detach themselves from the counting-houses in the east, used to meet at the central point, St Paul's; and from this circumstance obtained the appellation of Paul's Walkers. However strange it may seem, tradition says, that the great lord Bacon used in his youth to cry, Eastward, ho! and was literally a Paul's Walker.Moser, in Eur. Mag. July, 1807.

[] Brayley, ii. p. 237.

[] The shrine of this bishop was in great repute. Matthew Paris records, that miracles were frequently wrought at it.

[] Considerable remains of this monument now lie dispersed in the crypt of the present church.

[] The statue of Dr. Donne was sculptured by the celebrated Nicholas Stone, and cost 120l. When near death, the doctor is said to have wrapt himself in a shroud as a corse, and to have had a likeness of himself painted whilst so enveloped, and standing upon an urn; from that painting the statue was executed, and it is still preserved in the vaults of St. Faith's church.

[] This nobleman greatly distinguished himself in the Welsh wars, in the time of Edward the First. He contributed towards the building of the New Work, or Lady Chapel, in which he was buried, after his decease, at the age of threescore, at his house called Lincoln's Inn. The Book of Dunmow gives him this character: Vir illustris in consilio, strenuus in omni guerra et prelo, princeps militie in Anglia, et omni regno ornatissimus.

[] Dugdale's St, Paul's, p. 23.

[] The subscriptions received are particularized in large vellum books, which stand in a press, over the dean's vestry. The total amount was 101,330l. 4s. 8d.

[] Mal. Lond. Red. Vol.. iii p. 77.

[] The rubbish removed on laying the foundation of the portico was conveyed to Clerkenwell fields.

[] Parentalia, p: 258-9.

[] Mal. Lond. Red vol. iii. p. 85.

[] Ibid. p. 86.

[] Ibid. p. 104.

[] Ibid. p. 99.

[] Parentalia, p. 282

[] Mal. Lond. Red. vol. iii. p. 87. The model which sir Christopher best approved of was for many years kept under a shed in the office of the works at St Paul's; but on the completion of the building, it was deposited in a large apartment on the north side, over the morning prayer chapel, where it yet remains, and it is with the strongest feelings of indignation, that the Editor of this work, notices the disgraceful condition of this exquisite model; not alone is it kept so filthy and dirty, that it is almost impossible to make out any of the ornaments that adorn it, but the most reprehensible system of plunder has been permitted, the whole of the columns forming the western portico, which were of the Corinthian order, are gone, and all the caps of the pilasters. Surely some of the establishment of this cathedral, if they must turn exhibitors, ought to preserve and protect such an exquisite specimen of art: it is not decay but wilful destruction that has made so dreadful a havoc, in sir C. Wren's original design.

[] Parentalia, p. 283.

[] Ibid.

[] Parentalia, p. 202.

[] Mal. Lond. Red. vol. iii, p. 99. The gunner was paid 4l. 10. for placing the powder, laying the train, and setting fire to it.

[] Parentalia, p. 284.

[] Mal. Lond. Red vol. iii, p. 101.

[] Parentalia, p. 284.

[] Ibid.

[] Robert Trevet, a painter of architecture, and master of the company of painter-stainers, was employed in the same year, by the commissioners, to make drawings and engrave them, of the outside and inside views of the church and the choir, representing the time when the queen and parliament were present, for which he received 300l.

[] Mal. Lond. Red. vol. iii, p. 170.

[] Why Bird was employed to decorate the west front in preference to C. G. Cibber, who was a much superior sculptor, is now, probably, inexplicable; yet the circumstance is the less to be lamented, when we refer to the sooty and discoloured aspect, which the combined effects of smoke and weather has given to the building. All the natural lights and shades in the sculptures are completely destroyed by the clouds and streaks of black arising from the soot; and even the great architectural masses of the front itself, are deprived of their due effect, through the accumulated blackness that overwhelms them. The abilities of a Praxiteles would have been exerted in vain, to render art triumphant over evils like these. For the Sculpture of St. Paul's Conversion, Bird received 650l. The space it occupies is sixty-four feet in length, and seventeen in height. It contains eight large figures, six of which are on horseback: and several of them are imbost two feet and a half. The bas-reliefs, in the panels over the door-ways beneath the portico, were also executed by this artist; and are all designed from the life of the patron saint. That over the great west door, or principal entrance, represents St. Paul preaching to the Beraeans; and the figures are from nine to eighteen inches in relief: for this the artist was paid 300l. for the two others 75l. each. The pines for the towers, and the scrolls, ball, and cross, for the lantern of the cupola, were all of them modelled by Bird; and these generally speaking, are in a good taste, and well designed. The great capitals for the west portico were sculptured by Samuel Fulks, who had 60l. for each. See Mal. Lond. Red. pp. 107-109.

[] Fine Arts of the English School p. 11.

[] Ibid, p. 10.

[] Ibid. p. 11.

[] Fine Arts, &c. p. 11.

[] Ibid. p. 12.

[] Parentalis, pp 290, 291.

[] Fine Arts of the English School, p. 14.

[] Ibid.

[] Parentalia, p. 291

[] Parentalia, p. 291.

[] Mal. Lond. Red. vol. iii. p. 116.

[] Mal. Lond. Red. Vol. iii. pp. 100, 103, and 104.

[] Vol. xx. p, 580.

[] Parentalia, p. 292, note.

[] Fine Arts, &c. p. 14.

[] Anec. of Painting, vol. iv, p. 43.

[] Fine Arts, p. 14.

[] The arch which crosses the north aisle at the east end, says Mr. Malcolm, is two feet three inches in thickness, yet such is the derangement occasioned by the settling, that two of the twenty great stones composing the arch have yawned asunder full an inch and a quarter, and the great stones of the wall of the nave, ten paces westward, are rent in their joints, and three are broken. A person standing on the great cornice of the nave will perceive that the north-west pier has sunk at least four inches; the sinking of the other is discernible on the side next the choir, in the two transepts, and in the wall of the stair-case, from the top to the bottom. The fissures are almost wholly confined to the junctions of the choir, nave, and transepts, with the dome. Lond. Red. Vol. iii p. 115.

[] Mal. Lond. Red. Vol. III. p. 126.

[] From the small apertures pierced through the circumference of the west dial the motion of this hand is plainly visible. Though the clock is here described as having only a single dial, there are, in fact, two, one on the west side, and the other on the south; but the dimensions of both are similar.

[] In a pamphlet sold at the cathedral, the weight is said to be only 11,474 pounds; and that of the clapper 180 pounds. Mr. Malcolm has given the following extract from the Protestant Mercury of July the thirty-first, 1700; yet as the bell itself has the date of 1716, it would argue that it must have been afterwards re-cast. The great bell, formerly called Tom of Westminster, was new cast by Mr. Philip Wightman, at his melting-house, and proves extraordinary well. It weighs about five tons, having an addition made to it of the weight of a ton. It will be erected again at St. Paul's cathedral in a short time. Brayley, ii. p. 271.

[] Mal. Lond. Red. Vol. iii. p. 105.

[] Anec. of Paint. Vol. iii. p. 149.

[] See Lond. Red. Vol. iii. pp. 104, 105.

[] The gilding round the altar cost 1681. the glory 3l. the foliage 30l. and the palm and laurel branches 5l. the painting of the pilasters cost 160l. and the painting of the east end, &c. in resemblance of veined marble, 4s. per square yard. Mal. Lond. Red. vol. iii, p. 105.

[] The names of those who were foremost in this meritorious design are deserving of the lasting estimation of every admirer of art and superior talents, they are here recorded:--Sir Joshua Reynolds, Angelica Kaufman, and Messrs. West, Barry, Cipriani, and Dance.

[] Brayley, in. p. 278.

[] See Barry's Letter to the Dilettanti Society, p. 47; and Bacon's Letter to Mr. J. Nichols, in Gent.«s Mag. for the year 1796.

[] Brayley, ii. p. 285.

[] Ibid, p. 286.

[] Vol. ii. p. 153.

[] Mal. Lond. Red. vol. iii, pp. 145, 146.