Old and New London, A Narrative of its History, its People and its Places. Illustrated with Numerous Engravings from the Most Authentic Sources. vol 2
Thornbury, Walter
1872-78
Chapter L: The Fleet River and Fleet Ditch.
Chapter L: The Fleet River and Fleet Ditch.
The name of this ill-used stream, once fresh and fleet, now a mere sluggish and plague-breeding sewer, is traced by some to the Anglo-Saxon , and by others, to the Saxon , or , The sources of the river Fleet are on the high lands of Hampstead and Highgate, and the chief of them rise near Caen Wood. The Fleet was fed by the Oldborne, which rose, says Stow, and ran down to Old Borne Bridge, and into the River of Wells or Turnmill Brook. The Fleet was also fed by all the springs of Clerkenwell, such as Clerkenwell itself, Skinner's Well, Fogg's Well, Tod's Well, Loder's Well, Rad Well (near the Charterhouse), and the Horse Pool, at . | |
says Mr. Pinks, It was called as early as the days of William the Conqueror. | |
The Fleet seems early to have become impure, and hardly fit to drink, for, in (Edward I.), the prior of a Carmelite house in Whitefriars complained of the noxious exhalations, the miasma of which had killed many of the. hooded brethren, and. the corruption of which overpowered the odours of the incense. The Black Friars and the Bishop of Salisbury, whose palace was in , , also signed the same doleful petition, Mr. Pinks, with whom we do not in | |
p.417 | this case altogether agree, thinks that the Fleet was called the Holeburne, or burne of the Hollow, above Bridge; and the Fleet, between Bridge and its embouchure. The Holeburne is distinctly mentioned in Domesday Book. |
In the register of the Nunnery of St. Mary, Clerkenwell, of the time of Richard I. or John, the oldest cartulary extant, mention is made of a meadow near Holeburne, and of a ditch that led from Holeburne to the mill of the nuns. The garden of the Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem was also situated upon the Holeburne, thus perfectly proving, says an ingenious writer in the for , that Holeburne was only another name for that venerable and injured stream, the Fleet, the southern part of it, the mere embouchure (between Bridge and the Thames), probably always maintaining the name of Fleet, or Flood. Stow is therefore incorrect in his description of the imaginary stream, the old Bourne. | |
The same acute writer, who signs himself shows, also, that the word referring to a special limited place, is used in the ancient book of the Templars' lands () now in the Record Office; and the word in the ancient while in the of King John, the Templars received the grant of a place upon the Flete, near Castle Baynard, to enable them to construct a mill, which was removed in the reign of Edward I., on the complaint of Henry Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, that it had lessened the breadth and depth of water under Holeburne Bridge and Fleet Bridge into the Thames. The holes that gave the Saxon name to the Holeburne are still marked by the sites of Hockley-in-the- Hole and Black Mary's Hole, (both already described by us in previous chapters). The overflowing part of the Fleet, near its foul mouth, probably gave the name to the stream, as the same cause led to the naming the Fleets of the Trent; and the site of Paris Bear Garden, , now the parish of Christchurch, Surrey, was anciently called Widefleet, from the overflowing of the trenches at high tides, which formed a large stagnant backwater to a river that, from man's neglect and idleness, has probably caused the death of more Londoners than have been slain in English battles since the Conquest. | |
But turning back to earlier times, let us dive far below the deepest Stygian blackness of the Fleet Sewer. To see the antiquities found in the Fleet, which really deserves a daring discoverer's attention nearly as much as the Tiber, let us follow Mr. Pinks into the vast rag and bone shop of relics which his loving and patient industry has catalogued so carefully. During the digging and widening of the Fleet Ditch, in , there, at a depth of feet, was found the stray rubbish bones, and refuse of Roman London. The coins were of silver, copper, and brass, but none of gold. The silver was ring-money, of several sizes, the largest as big as a crown, the smallest about the size of a silver twopence,. every having a snip in the edge. At Bridge, thrown away by spoilers or dropped by thieves, were brass Lares (about inches high), a Ceres, the other a Bacchus, both covered with a petrified crust, but the stream had washed much of the oxydizing matter from the coins, says the vivacious and imaginative Pennant, his mind, like a true antiquary, of course reverting to the special crisis of interest in ancient London story. The excavators also discovered in the miserly river various British and Saxon antiquities of interestarrow- heads, broad spur rowels, keys, daggers, scales, seals, with Saxon names, ships' counters, with Saxon characters, and medals, crosses, and crucifixes, of a later date. In the bed of the Fleet, at Black Mary's. Hole, near the end of , a ship's anchor, it is said, was found some years ago; and a correspondent in the () describes a small anchor, feet inches long, found in the Fleet Ditch, as then in. the collection of Mr. Walter Hawkins, F.S.A. | |
In there was exhibited at the British Archaeological Association a globular iron padlock, so constructed that the whole shackle could be drawn out when the bolt was thrown back. This was found in the Fleet Ditch, near the bottom of . In the same association exhibited a jug of hard-baked pottery (the upper part covered with mottled green glaze), of the century, found in , in the ditch, near . In a beautiful hunting-knife, of the century, was found in the same dirty repository of The ivory haft was wrought with a figure of Mercury, with winged petasus, hunting-horn and caduceus. The blade was of the time of George I. About target bosses, of latten, of the time of Henry VIII., were dredged up. In Mr. Gunston exhibited, at the British Archaeological meeting, a rude penknife of the , and of the century, both Fleet relics; also the carved wooden haft of a dagger, and a little knife, the bone haft carved with a female bust that resembled Catherine de Medicis; also a knifeblade, with a motto, and a Roman sharpening steel. | |
p.418 | |
Stow says that before or ships used to go up the Fleet to Fleet Bridge, A in folio of the ancient containing the ancient evidences of the Dean and Chapter of , mentions Fleet Hythe as in the possession of Henry the Woodmonger, a man, says Mr. Pinks, mentioned in the great for the of Henry I., and also in the as of the earliest donors to the Clerkenwell nunnery. The process shows that ships and store-barges belonging to the Dean and Chapter of unshipped their lading at Fleet Hythe, and that the owners complained of a toll there exacted from them. The river was no doubt navigable, ages ago, much further than Bridge. | |
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Several years ago, on making a great sewer, some piles of oak, apparently portions of a mill-dam, were found in the Fleet Ditch, feet below the surface of , near Little . | |
says Mr. Timbs,
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About the year (Henry VII.), Lambert, in his says that the intolerable Fleet Ditch was cleared, from to the Thames, and it became once more navigable for large barges, laden with fuel and fish. In Aggas, in his curious Map of London, marks bridges over the Fleet-Holborne and Fleet Bridge. Holborne Bridge was situated on a spot between and ; and the Fleet Bridge, says Mr. Pinks, an excellent authority, about the spot where the present and join (the circus between the obelisks). Southward stood a dwelling-house, or warehouse, opposite the northern end of , which reached to the Thames, and was situated on the western side of the Fleet. From the dwellinghouse above mentioned as far as the Thames, the Fleet was open, Bridge (afterwards built on its mouth) not being yet erected. | |
In Stow's Fleet Bridge, without Lud | |
p.419 | Gate, is described as a stone bridge, coped on both sides, with iron pikes, with stone lanthorns on the south side for winter evening travellers. Under this ran the River of Wells, Turnmill Brook,
the Fleet Dyke, or Ditch. The bridge had been larger in old times, but was lessened as the water-course narrowed. It had either been built or repaired by John Wells, mayor in (Henry VI.), and on the coping Wells is engraved, as on the Standard in Cheape, which he also built. This bridge melted away in the Great Fire, and its successor lasted till , when it was removed, to widen , and the Fleet was abandoned as incapable of improvement, and finally bricked over without any respectful funeral service. Strype, in , describes Fleet Bridge as having sides breast high, and on them the city arms engraved. At Bridge the Canal, as it was then called, was fed by Turnmill Brook. The and Fleet Bridges adjoining were ascended by steps. Between the piers of Fleet Bridge were iron rails and banisters at both sides. The roadway was level with the street. There was a coffee-house (the ) on the bridge in . The older bridge was a stone bridge of arch, with no stone parapet, but wooden rails and posts. |
Prynne's folio, , mention several old records referring to the nuisances of the river of Fleet, and efforts to make it navigable, to and under Bridge. He also quotes from the record itself the interesting petition of the Commons of London (Edward I.), quoted by Stow, complaining of the obstruction of the the corruption of the air it had. engendered, and the hindrance of the former navigation as far as Bridge. We have seen from the Earl of Lincoln's petition mentioned above that or ships had been known to bring merchandise as far as the Fleet Bridge, and some of them to penetrate as far as Holeburne Bridge. The commission was issued to perfect the work, which was, however, stopped by the king's death. Prynne quietly urges the Government of Charles II., for the benefit of the health and trade of the city, to make the river navigable to Bridge or Clerkenwell. | |
In the celebrated or White Book of the city of London, compiled in (Henry V.), the street of is mentioned, as is also the cleansing of Amongst the city tolls the compiler notes:
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In the (Mary, - ), in connection with the reign of Queen Mary the Sanguinary, we find a noteof certain conspirators against the queen meeting at Fleet Bridge, just as in the Rye House rebellion () we meet with Monmouth, Sir Thomas Armstrong, and Lord Grey, going from the Fleet Ditch to , to arrange the Sunday-night rising, when at midnight, according to the traitor, Grey, the train-bands at the were to be attacked, and the western city gates seized. At Fleet Bridge and the conspirators were to wait the onslaught of the king's guard. At there was to be a barricade thrown up, and mounted with or ships' cannon, while at Fleet Bridge there were to be several regular. cannon, and a breastwork for musqueteers on each side of the bridge, while the houses on the east bank of the Fleet were o be lined with firelock-men, who were to fire from the windows as the royal troops approached the bridge. There were at least averns on Fleet Bridge at the Restoration. In Aggas' Map of London (, year of Queen Elizabeth), Bridge had houses on the north side. | |
In (Charles II.), in rebuilding London, after the Great Fire, it was decreed that Bridge being too narrow for the traffic of London, the northern approach should be enlarged so that the might run in to the Wren, therefore, built the new bridge on the north side of accordingly; and the name of William Hooker, Lord Mayor in -, was cut on the stone coping of the east approach. In , Mr. Tite, F.S.A., during the opening of a sewer at , was lucky enough to be passing, and saw the southern face of the old bridge disinterred. The arch was about feet span. The road from the east intersected the bridge obliquely, and out of the angle thus formed a stone corbel arose, to carry the parapet. The worthy mayor's name and the date were still visible. The width of the bridge was feet inches, says Mr. Crosby, who had spent many years collecting memorabilia of the Fleet valley. It had probably originally been feet inches. According to this best authority on the subject, Bridge consisted of different bridges joined | |
p.420 | together at the sides, and of these had been added, to widen the passage. The entrance of the old Swan Inn, with premises that covered an acre and a half, faced what is now . |
A writer in the , , states as follows:--
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In the Pope, lashing the poorer of his enemies, drives them headlong past to the mud-pools of the Fleet- | |
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p.421 p.422 |
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Gay again, in his in his pleasant way sketches the same noisome place:--
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Swift, too, with his coarse pen, giving a description of a city shower, revels in the congenial filth of the odorous locality:--
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The Fleet seems always to have been a sort of dirty and troublesome child to the Corporation of London. In (Elizabeth) the Common Council collected a () to draw the springs of Hampstead Heath into head, for the service of the city, and to scour down the Fleet; but the constant encroachment on the Fleet banks, and the rubbish and dirt thrown into the narrow channel, soon, says Stow, clogged it worse than ever. In (James I.) flood-gates were erected, to dam the water back when required; and in Cromwell's time () the sewer was thoroughly cleansed, and many encroachments checked. The ditch had now become impassable to boats, in consequence of the numerous pigsties on the bank, and the vast quantities of offal and garbage thrown in by the butchers. | |
says Mr. Pinks,
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After the Fire, by cleansing and enlarging of Fleet Ditch, coal-barges, &c., were enabled to come up as far as Bridge, where Turnmill Brook fell into the wider and equally sable flood. Wharves and store-houses were built on the Fleet side, but they did not prove successful. The channel had feet of water at the lowest tide. The wharves were feet broad, and had oak rails, to prevent passers-by at night falling in. Sir Thomas Fitch, the bricklayer who built the ditch, made a fortune by it, the cost being, as Ned Ward says, in his . | |
The Bridge over the Fleet, according to Stow, was of timber, through a breach in the city wall, opposite . Hatton, in his , describes Bridge as of stone, and right against the back gate of the prison. It was ascended by steps, and was pulled down in . | |
The bridge at the end of Fleet Lane, called the Middle Bridge, was of stone, and was, like , ascended by steps; the arch being high enough to admit of ships with merchandise to pass under it. | |
In (George II.) the Fleet, being so often tried and found guilty, underwent at last its final doom. The city of London petitioned the for permission to cover it up out of sight, as all navigation had ceased, it had become impossible to cleanse it, and several persons had fallen in and been suffocated in the mud. A bill was accordingly passed, by virtue of which the fee-simple of the site of the premises on the line of the Fleet Ditch was vested in the Corporation for ever, on condition that proper drains were made, to receive the mud-choked stream. In sewer-arches, feet high and feet wide, were completed. from Fleet Bridge to Bridge, and covered over, and the new Fleet Market erected on the site, in . The thing was only half done, after all, for the noisome part, from the corner of to the Thames, still remained open, and was not arched over till the approaches to were completed, between and , and even then stubborn conservative kept a small, filthy dock still | |
p.423 | uncovered. In , a drunken barber, from , in Kent, was found in Fleet Ditch, stand ing upright and frozen to death. |
Floods of the Fleet were not uncommon, before it was boxed up. In , after heavy rains, it broke down the back of several wholesale butcher houses at Cow Cross, and carried off cattle, dead and alive. At Hockley-in-the-Hole barrels of ale, beer, and brandy floated down the black stream, and were treated by the rabble as fair flotsam. In the Hampstead Ponds overflowing, after a severe storm, the Fleet channel grew into a torrent, and the roads and fields about were overflowed. In the gardens of the water was feet deep. A man was nearly drowned, and several damage was done in Coldbath Fields, , and and vicinity. oxen and several hogs were carried off and drowned. A Blackfriars boatman took his boat to , and there plied, removing the inhabitants, who could not leave their houses for, the rising flood. In a sudden thaw produced a flood, and the whole space between , Somers' Town, and the foot of the hill at was soon under water; cart-horses were drowned; and for several days persons received their provisions in at their windows, from carts sent round to convey them. | |
In a furious thunderstorm caused the Fleet Ditch to blow up. The rush from the drain at the arch of drove a steamer against of the piers, and damaged it. The overflow of the Fleet penetrated into the cellars on the, west side of , so that draper alone had worth of goods destroyed or damaged. In the lower part of Clerkenwell, where the sewer ran open, the effects of the flood were most severe, especially in the valley below Brook Hill and . In Bull's head Court, , the water rose feet, and swept away cattle and furniture. poor houses in Round Court, Brook Hill, were partly carried away. From Acton Place, Road, to the roads were impassable, and the kitchens inundated. baker alone lost sacks of flour. A few days after another storm produced a renewed flood, and more houses fell in Round Court, Brook Hill. The introduction of the cholera into Clerkenwell Prison, in , was attributed to the effluvia of the river Fleet, then opened. | |
In , the Fleet, as of the metropolitan main sewers then vested in the Commissioners of Sewers, became vested in the newly-created Metropolitan Board of Works. The gigantic maindrainage system began with the great subterranean roads, the high, the low, and the mid level, which, intercepting all lesser sewers, carry their united floods to Barking Creek and Crossness Point. The high level runs from Hampstead to Bow; the midlevel from Kensal Green to Bow; the low level, from Cremore to Abbey Mills on the marshes near . The mid-level main-drainage works were commenced in Clerkenwell in , in . From to it was an open cutting, with the exception of a short tunnel under the Charterhouse grounds. The distance from Old Ford, Bow, to Kensal Green is miles feet, exclusive of miles of junctions. The sewer through Clerkenwell is feet inches in diameter. There were generally or men at work, with steam-engines to pump water and draw earth. | |
says Mr. Pinks,
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The dangers of exploring the Fleet Sewer have been described by Mr. Crosby, who made great collections for a history of the Fleet Valley:-- says this gentleman, | |
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Mr. Archer, in his , says that by the opening at the Thames
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The polite Lord Chesterfield was asked by an enthusiastic Parisian whether London could show a river like the Seine. replied his lordship,
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The following serves to show what nourishing contributions of refuse were made to the Fleet:-- says the for ,
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, pulled down in the Clerkenwell improvements of -, was undoubtedly for several centuries of the most disreputable streets in all London. It is mentioned as Trylmyl Streate as early as the reign of Henry IV. It is marked in Aggas's map, and is noticed in a letter from Recorder Fleetwood to Burleigh in as a place for thieves' houses. The name was sometimes corrupted into Turnbull and Trunball Street. It seems to have been the very sink of the vice of London, and to have been frequented by highwaymen and rogues of every description. It is mentioned as an infamous resort by some half-dozen of the Elizabethan dramatists, more especially by Beaumont and Fletcher, Lodowick Barry, Marston, Middleton, Ben Jonson, Randolph, Webster, &c. Nor must we forget that it was of his wild and youthful feats | |
p.425 | in Turnbull Street at Justice Shallow brags of to Falstaff. Here, the Pistols and Bardolphs of the time swaggered and cheated, and here the Tybalts of the day occasionally received their quietus from a subtle thrust. |
says Mr. Pinks, | |
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says Mr. Pinks,
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In , a parchment-maker of , says Stow, was drawn, hanged, and beheaded, for harbouring Sir John Oldcastle, the good Lord Cobham, the leader of the insurgent Lollards. The parchment-maker's head was spiked upon . Lollard books were found in the house of the unfortunate man. In Dr. Thomas Worthington, of the translators of the Douay bible, and author of lived in . | |
In Faithorne's Map of London, , the houses on the west side of are represented as having gardens leading down to the Fleet, which is fenced on both sides. At the sign of the on the west side of , lived, in , Giles Russell, at brewer, who left an estate in Hertfordshire for the education of poor children of Clerkenwell parish in . | |
says Mr. Pinks, In an advertisement in the announces a house to let in Bowling Alley, , with a common sewer, with a good stream and current,
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Among other infamous lurking-places of thieves pulled down for the Clerkenwell improvements of , was the notorious , formerly known by the innocent name of Chick Lane. Stow mentions it, in , as near a timber bridge that crossed Turnmill Brook, (near the end of ). In a flood in , when casks swam down the streets, several hogs were washed out of their sties in Castle Inn Yard, , and were carried down to Chick Lane. | |
There was a cruel murder committed in Chick Lane in . women named Metyard killed a woman named Naylor, and then cut up the body, intending to throw the pieces down the gulley-hole in Chick Lane, but eventually left them in the mud which had collected before the grate of the sewer. The women were convicted of the murder years after, and were both hung at Tyburn in . At an inquest, in , at the , on a man found dead in a low lodging-house in , the landlady deposed that in her house there were beds in room, and or persons in each bed. | |
Near Chick Lane was Cow Bridge, mentioned by Stow as north of Oldbourn Bridge, over the River of Wells. In the time of Elizabeth the ground from Cow Cross towards the river Fleet, and towards Ely House, was either entirely vacant, or occupied with gardens. | |
says Mr. Pinks,
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were transported. A skull, and numerous human bones, were found in the cellars. Numerous parties daily visited the premises, among whom were many of the police and county magistrates. It was said to have been the rendezvous, and often the hiding-place, of Jack Sheppard and Jerry Abershaw; and the place looked as if many a foul deed had been there planned and decided on, the sewer or ditch receiving and floating away anything thrown into it. On occasion the police had surrounded the house to take a thief, whom they knew to be there, but he made his escape in their actual presence. At another time an officer went into of the rooms to apprehend a man, and saw him in bed. While at the door, calling to another to help him, he turned his head and saw the man getting under the bed. He did not take any notice of it, but when the other man came up, on looking under the bed, the man had vanished. After some search they discovered a trap-door through which of them jumped, but he, breaking his leg in the fall, the fellow escaped. In this house was a place where a gang of coiners carried on their trade, and had also a private still. This place, like all the rest, had a communication with the sewer. In of the garrets was a secret door, which led to the roof of the next house from which any offender could be in in a few minutes. Amongst Mr. Crosby's drawings are a view of this old house, taken ; and an inner view of the cellar windows, taken . The pulling down of this house was commenced on the -mentioned date. It appears to have been left standing several years after some of the surrounding buildings had been removed. views of the old house taken shortly before its demolition are given on page . | |