Old and New London, A Narrative of its History, its People and its Places. Illustrated with Numerous Engravings from the Most Authentic Sources. vol 2

Thornbury, Walter

1872-78

Chapter XXI: Bishopsgate (continued).

Chapter XXI: Bishopsgate (continued).

 

The Ward of Bishopsgate having partially escaped the Great Fire, is still especially rich in old houses. In most cases the gable ends have been removed, and, in many, walls have been built in front of the ground floors up to the projecting storeys; but frequently the backs of the houses present their original structure. Mr. Hugo, writing in the year , has described nearly all places of interest; but many of these have since been modified or pulled down. The houses Nos. to inclusive, in Without, were Elizabethan. On the front of of these the date, , was formerly visible. In the same antiquary found houses which, at the back, preserved their Elizabethan character. In No. , , there was a fine ceiling of the time of Charles I. The houses adjoining Sir Paul Pindar's, numbered and , possessed ceilings of a noble character, and had probably formed part of Sir Paul Pindar's. The lodge in Half-moon Street, now destroyed, had a most noble chimneypiece, probably executed by Inigo Jones, besides wainscoted walls and rich ceilings. No. , Without possessed splendid back rooms, with decorations in the style of Louis XIV., full of flowing lines. In Still Alley, in , there were several Elizabethan houses, since modernised. White Hart Court (though the old inn was gone before) boasted a row of houses, of beautiful design, in the Inigo Jones manner.

In the house No. , at the corner of , Mr. Hugo discovered, as he imagined, a portion of the Earl of Devonshire's house, or that of Lord John Powlet. It was of the Elizabethan age, and room contained a rich cornice of masks, fruit, and leaves, connected by ribands. In another there were, over the fireplace, the arms of Henry Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, and Shakespeare's friend. At the corner of , No. , Without, there was an Elizabethan house, and at the opposite corner, No. , was a house with fine staircases, and walls and ceilings profusely decorated Louis Quatorze. Just beyond, a tablet, surmounted with the figure of a mitre inserted in the wall, a little north of , marks the site of the old. Bishops' Gate.

At , Within, there was a finely-groined undercroft, of the century. At the end of Pea Hen Court, Mr. Hugo, in his antiquarian tour of , records a doorway of James I. In Great , the same antiquary found, at No. , a good doorway and staircase of Charles I.; and at Nos. and , some Elizabethan relics. Nos. and he pronounced to be modern subdivisions of a superb house. On the front was the date, . It was of brick, ornamented with pilasters, and contained a matchless staircase and a fine chimney-piece. Nos. and , Great St. Helen's, Mr. Hugo noted as a red brick house, with pilasters of the same material The simple but artistic doorways he had little

p.159

[extra_illustrations.2.159.1] 
hesitation in attributing to Inigo Jones: he supposed them to have been erected about , the year Inigo designed the south entrance of St. Helen's Church.

At No. , , Mr. Hugo found a fine doorway ( Charles II.), in the style of Wren. This square was built in , on the site of part of Crosby Hall. At Crosby Hall Chambers, No. , Within, the street front had lost all ancient peculiarities, except beautiful festoons of flowers inserted between the windows of the and floors.

[extra_illustrations.2.159.2] , stands on the banks of the city Ditch, and was rebuilt in - by James Gold, an architect otherwise unknown. It contains a monument to the good and illustrious sir Paul Pindar. The inscription describes him as years resident in Turkey, faithful in negotiations foreign and domestic, eminent for piety, charity, loyalty, and prudence; an inhabitant years, and a bountiful benefactor to the parish, Sir Paul having left great bequests to London hospitals and other institutions. There is also [extra_illustrations.2.159.3] . His friends came every day for weeks to his grave, to perform their devotions, till disturbed by the mob. The churchyard of St. Botolph's is adorned with a pretty little fountain.

The registers of the church (says Cunningham) record the baptism of Edward Alleyn, the player (born ); the marriage, in , of Archibald Campbell, Earl of Argyll, to Ann Cornwallis, daughter of Sir William Cornwallis; and the burials of the following persons of distinction:--, , Edward Allei, poete to the Queene; , , Stephen Gosson, rector of this church, and author of

The School of Abuse; containing a pleasant invective against Poets, Pipers, Plaiers, Jesters, and such-like Caterpillars of a Common-

Street Front of Crosby Hall.

wealth,

to, ; , , William, Earl of Devonshire (from whom , adjoining, derives its name); , John Riley, the painter.

[extra_illustrations.2.159.4] , a church a little beyond St. Helen's, half hidden with shops, escaped the Great Fire, and still retains some Early English masonry. It was named from the daughter of King Ethelbert, and is mentioned as early as the year ; the advowson was vested in the prioress and nuns of St. Helen's, and so continued till the dissolution. of Dryden's rivals, Luke Milbourne, was minister of this church. Pope calls him

the fairest of critics,

because he exhibited his own translation of Virgil to be compared with that which he condemned.

The General , at fixed at , was next removed to , Dowgate, and then, till the Great Fire, to the Black Swan, .

of the glories of old Bishopsgate was the mansion built there by Sir Thomas Gresham, in . It consisted (says Mr. Burgon, his best biographer) of a square court, surrounded by a covered piazza, and had spacious offices adjoining. It was girdled by pleasant gardens, and extended from , on the side, to on the other. The plan of the college which afterwards occupied this house was to have professors, who should lecture once a week in succession on divinity, astronomy, music, geometry, law, medicine, and rhetoric. Their salaries, defrayed by the profits of the , were to be per annum, a sum equal to or at the present day. To the library of this college the Duke of Norfolk, in the latter part of the century, presented volumes from his family library. From the meetings of scientific men at these lectures the Royal

p.160

Society originated, and was incorporated in by Charles II. The society afterwards removed to Arundel House, in . The Gresham College Lectures were commenced in , the year after Lady Gresham's death, when the house became free. They were read in term-time, every day but Sunday, in Latin, at a.m., and in English at m.

Aubrey mentions that that strange being, Sir Kenelm Digby, admiral, philosopher, and doctor, after the death of his beautiful wife, retired into Gresham College for or years, to avoid envy and scandal. He diverted himself with his chemistry, and the professors' learned talk. He wore, says the gossip, a long morning cloak, a highcrowned hat, and he kept his beard unshorn, and looked like a hermit, as signs of sorrow for his beloved wife, whom he was supposed to have poisoned by accident, by giving her vipers' flesh in broth, to heighten her beauty. In Johnson's time the attendance at the lectures had dwindled to nothing, and we find the terrible doctor telling Boswell, that ready listener, that if the professors had been allowed to take only sixpence a lecture from each scholar, they would have been

emulous to have had many scholars.

[extra_illustrations.2.160.1]  was taken down in , the ground on which it stood made over to the Crown for a perpetual rent of per annum, the lectures being read in a room above the . A new college was subsequently erected in , and the lecture read in it . The music and other practical lectures are still well attended, but the Latin lectures are often adjourned, from there being no audience.

The new college, at the corner of , is a handsome stone edifice, designed by George Smith. It is in the enriched Roman style, and has a Corinthian entrance portico. Over the entrance are the arms of Gresham, the city of London, and the Mercers' Company, in the last of which a demivirgin, with dishevelled hair, is modestly conspicuous. The interior contains a large library and professors' rooms, and on the floor a theatre, to hold persons. The building cost upwards of . The professors' salaries have been raised, to compensate them for their rooms in the old college. In Vertue's print, in Ward's , Dr. Woodward and Dr. Mead, Gresham professors, are represented as drawing swords. This refers to an actual quarrel between the men, when Mead obtained the advantage, and commanded Woodward to beg his life.

No, doctor,

said the vanquished man,

that I will not, till I am your patient.

But he nevertheless at last wisely yielded, and Vertue has represented him tendering his sword to. his conqueror.

of the largest of the Jews' synagogues in London was built by Davies, in , in Great St. Helen's, Bishopsgate. It is in rich Italian style, with an open loggia of arches, resting upon Tuscan columns. The sides have Doric piers, and Corinthian columns above, behind which are the ladies' galleries, in the Oriental manner of the Jews, fronted with rich brass-work. There are no pews. The centre floor has a platform, and seats for the principal officers, with large brass-gilt candelabra. At the south end is

the ark,

a lofty semicircular-domed recess, consisting of Italian- Doric pilasters, with and porphyry shafts, and gilt capitals; and Corinthian columns with sienna shafts, and capitals and entablature in white and gold. In the upper storey the intercolumns are filled with arched windows of stained glass, arabesque pattern, by Nixon, the centre having

Jehovah,

in Hebrew, and the tables of the Law. The semi-dome is decorated with gilded rosettes on an azure ground; there are rich festoons of fruit and flowers between the capitals of the Corinthian columns, and ornaments on the frieze above, on which is inscribed in Hebrew,

Know in whose presence thou standest.

The centre of the lower part is fitted up with recesses for books of the Law, enclosed with polished mahogany doors, and partly concealed by a rich velvet curtain, fringed with gold; there are massive gilt candelabra, and the pavement and steps to the ark are of fine veined Italian marble, partly carpeted. Externally, the ark is flanked with an arched panel, that on the east containing a prayer for the Queen and Royal Family in Hebrew, and the other a similar in English. Above the ark is a rich fan-painted window, and a corresponding , though less brilliant, at the north end. The ceiling, which is flat, is decorated with coffers, each containing a large flower aperture, for ventilation. This synagogue appears to have been removed from .

[extra_illustrations.2.160.2] , at the east end of , was rebuilt about , on the site of the old hall, which had formed part of the house of the Black Nuns of St. Helen's, taken down in . The original site had been purchased by the Company soon after the surrender of the priory to Henry VIII. [extra_illustrations.2.160.3]  contained a curiouslycarved Elizabethan screen, and an enriched ceiling, with pendants. Beneath the present hall runs the crypt of the Priory of St. Helen's, which we have. already described. In the yard belonging to the hall is [extra_illustrations.2.160.4] , with a mermaid pressing [extra_illustrations.2.160.5] 

p.161

her breasts, out of which, on festive occasions, wine used formerly to run. It was made by Caius Gabriel Cibber, in , as payment to the Company of his livery fine of . The Leathersellers were incorporated by the of Richard II., and by a grant of Henry VII. the wardens were empowered to inspect sheep, lamb, and calf leather throughout the kingdom.

It was at the

Bull

Inn, , that Shakespeare's friend, Burbage, and his fellows, obtained a patent from Queen Elizabeth for erecting a permanent building for theatrical entertainments. Tarlton, the comedian, often played here. The old inns of London were the theatres, as we have before shown. Anthony Bacon (the brother of the great Francis), resided in a house in , not far from the

Bull

Inn, to the great concern of his watchful mother, who not only dreaded that the plays and interludes acted at the

Bull

might corrupt his servants, but also objected on her own son's account to the parish, as being without a godly clergyman. The

Four Swans

,

just pulled down, was another fine old Bishopsgate inn, with galleries complete. It was at the

Bull

that [extra_illustrations.2.161.2]  eulogised by Milton, put up. The says that there was a fresco figure of him on the inn walls, with a -pound bag under his arm, with this inscription on the said bag-

The fruitful mother of an

hundred

more.

Milton's lines on this sturdy old driver are full of kindly regret, and are worth remembering-

On the University Carrier, who sickened in the time of the Vacancy, being forbid to go to London, by reason of the Plague.

Here lies old Hobson; Death hath broke his girt,

And here, alas! hath laid him in the dirt;

Or else, the ways being foul, twenty to one,

He's here stuck in a slough, and overthrown.

'Twas such a shifter, that if truth were known,

Death was half glad when he had got him down;

For he had, any time these ten years full,

Dodg'd with him, betwixt Cambridge and the Bull;

And surely Death could never have prevail'd,

Had not his weekly course of carriage fail'd;

But lately finding him so long at home,

And thinking now his journey's end was come,

And that he had ta'en up his latest inn,

In the kind office of a chamberlain,

Show'd him his room, where he must lodge that night,

Pull'd off his boots, and took away the light;

If any ask for him, it shall be said, Hobson has supt, and's newly gone to bed.

The original portrait and parchment certificate of Mr. Van Ham, a frequenter of the house, were long preserved at the

Bull

Inn. This worthy is said to have drank bottles of wine in this hostelry. In Puritan troopers were sentenced to death for a mutiny at the

Bull.

[extra_illustrations.2.161.3]  was originally a priory of canons, with brothers and sisters, formed in , in Bishopsgate Without, by Simon Fitz Mary, a London sheriff. Henry VIII., at the dissolution, gave it to the city of London, who turned it into an hospital for the insane. Stow speaks vaguely of an insane hospital near , removed by a king of England, who objected to mad people near his palace. The hospital was removed from Bishopsgate to , in , at a cost of

nigh

£ 17,000

.

The was in Teasel Close, now , Without. Stow describes Teasel Close as a place where teasels (the of the Anglo-Saxons, , or fullers' teasel of naturalists) were planted for the clothworkers, afterwards let to the cross-bow makers, to shoot matches at the popinjay. It was in his day closed in with a brick wall, and used as an artillery yard; and there the Tower gunners came every Thursday, to practise their exercise, firing their

brass pieces of great artillery

at earthen butts. The Trained Bands removed to Finsbury in .

Teasel Close was the practice-ground of the old city Trained Band, established in , during the alarm of the expected Spanish Armada.

Certain gallant, active, and forward citizens,

says Stow,

voluntarily exercising themselves for the ready use of war, so as within

two

years there was almost

300

merchants, and others of like quality, very sufficient and skilful to train and teach the common soldiers.

The alarm subsiding, the city-volunteers again gave way to the grave gunners of the Tower, warriors as guiltless of blood as themselves. In , martial ardour again rising, a new company was formed, and weekly drill practised with renewed energy. Many country gentlemen from the shires used to attend the drills, to learn how to command the country Trained Bands. In the Civil Wars, especially at the battle of Newbury, these [extra_illustrations.2.162.1]  fought with firmness and courage. Lord Clarendon is even proud to confess this.

The London Trained Bands,

he says,

and auxiliary regiments (of whose inexperience of danger, or any kind of service beyond the easy practice of their postures in the Artillery Garden, men had till then too cheap in estimation) behaved themselves to wonder, and were in truth the preservation of that army that day. For they stood as a bulwark and rampire to defend the rest; and when their wings of horse were scattered and dispersed, kept their ground so steadily, that though Prince Rupert himself led up the choice horse to

charge them, and endured their storm of small shot, he could make no impression upon their stand of pikes, but was forced to wheel about; of so sovereign benefit and use is that readiness, order, and dexterity in the use of their arms, which hath been so much neglected.

, a humble place now, was originally the site of a large house with pleasure-. gardens, bowling-greens, &c., built and laid out by Jasper Fisher, of the clerks in Chancery, a Justice of the Peace, and a freeman of the Goldsmiths' Company. The house being considered far too splendid for a mere clerk in Chancery, much in debt, was nicknamed

Fisher's Folly.

After Fisher's downfall, Edward, Earl of Oxford,
Lord High Chamberlain to Queen Elizabeth, took it. The Queen lodged here during of her visits to the city, and here probably the Earl presented his royal mistress with the pair of perfumed gloves brought to England. The mansion afterwards fell to the noble family of Cavendish, William Cavendish, the Earl of Devonshire, dying in it about the year . The family OL Cavendish appear to have been old Bishopsgate residents, as Thomas Cavendish, Treasurer of the Exchequer to Henry VIII., buried his lady in St. Botolph's Church, and by will bequeathed a legacy for the repair of the building. The Earls of Devonshire held the house from to , but during the Civil Wars, when the sour-faced preachers

p.163

were all-powerful, the earl's city mansion became a conventicle, and resounded with the unctuous groans of the crop-eared listeners. Butler, in his says the Rump Parliament resembled

No part of the nation

But Fisher's Folly congregation.

About the close of the century, when the Penny Post was started, of the inventors, Mr. Robert Murray, clerk to the Commissioners of the Grand Excise of England, set up a Bank of Credit at , where men depositing their goods and merchandise were furnished with bills of current credit at -thirds or -fourths of the value of the said goods.

Hatton, in , calls the square

a pretty though very small square, inhabited by gentry and other merchants ;

and Strype describes it as

an airy and creditable place, where the Countess of Devonshire, in my memory, dwelt in great repute for her hospitality.

, which may be called an indirect tributary of Bishopsgate, though not a dignified place, has a legend of its own. Richard of Cirencester says that here the body of Edric, the murderer of his sovereign Edmund Ironside, was contemptuously thrown by Canute, whom he had raised to the throne. When Edric, flushed with his guilty success, came to claim of Canute the promised reward of his crime--the highest situation

in London--the Danish king cried,

I like the treason, but detest the traitor. Behead this fellow, and as he claims the promise, place his head on the highest pinnacle of the Tower.

Edric was then drawn by his heels from Baynard's Castle, tormented to death by burning torches, his head placed on the turret, and his scorched body thrown into .

Stow speaks of the old city ditch as a filthy place, full of dead dogs, but before his time covered over and enclosed by a mud wall. On the side of the ditch over against this mud wall was a field at time belonging to the Priory of the Holy Trinity, which being given, at the dissolution, to Sir Thomas Audly, was handed over by him to Magdalen College, Cambridge, of which he was the founder.

Brokers and sellers of disconsolate cast-off apparel took kindly to this place immediately after the Reformation, settling in this field of the priory; while the old dramatists frequently allude to the Jew brokers and usurers of this district, of the

melancholy

of which Shakespeare has spoken.

Where got'st thou this coat, I marle?

says Well-bred in Ben Jonson's ; to which Brainworm answers,

Of a

Houndsditch

man, sir;

one

of the devil's near kinsmen, a broker.

And Beaumont and Fletcher call the place contemptuously Dogsditch:--

p.164

More knavery, and usury,

And foolery, and brokery than Dogsditch.

In the reign of Henry VIII. brothers named Owens set up in this field a foundry for brass ordnance, and the rest of the place was turned into garden ground. At the end of the reign of Edward VI. pleasant houses for respectable citizens began to be erected.

This field,

says Stow,

as all others about the city, was enclosed, reserving open passage thereinto for such as were disposed. Towards the street were some small cottages of two storeys high, and little garden plots, backward, for poor bedrid people (for in that street dwelt none other), builded by some Prior of the Holy Trinity, to whom that ground belonged.

In my youth I remember devout people, as well men as women of this city, were accustomed oftentimes, especially on Fridays weekly, to walk that way purposely, and there to bestow their charitable alms, every poor man or woman laying in their bed within their window, which was towards the street, open so low that every man might see them; a clean linen cloth lying in their window, and a pair of beads, to show that there lay a bedrid body, unable but to pray only. This street was first paved in the year 1503.

The favourite localities of the Jew old-clothesmen were Cobb's Yard, Roper's Buildings, and .

The Jew old-clothesmen,

says Mr. Mayhew,

are generally far more cleanly in their habits than the poorer classes of English people. Their hands they always wash before their meals, and this is done whether the party be a strict Jew or Meshumet, a convert or apostate from Judaism. Neither will the Israelite ever use the same knife to cut his meat that he previously used to spread his butter, and he will not even put his meat upon a plate that has had butter on it; nor will he use for his soup the spoon that has had melted butter in it. This objection to mix butter with meat is carried so far, that, after partaking of the one, Jews will not eat of the other for two hours. The Jews are, generally, when married, most exemplary family men. There are few fonder fathers than they are, and they will starve themselves sooner than their wives or children should want. Whatever their faults may be, they are good fathers, husbands, and sons. Their principal characteristic is their extreme love of money; and, though the strict Jew does not trade himself on the Sabbath, he may not object to employ either one of his tribe, or a Gentile to do so for him.

The capital required for commencing in the old clothes line is generally about ;I. This the Jew frequently borrows, especially after holiday time, for then he has generally spent all his earnings, unless he be a provident man. When his stockmoney is exhausted, he goes either to a neighbour or to a publican in the vicinity, and borrows £ 1 on the Monday morning, to strike a light with, as he calls it, and agrees to return it on the Friday evening, with a shilling interest for the loan. This he always pays back. If he were to sell the coat off his back he would do this, I am told, because to fail in so doing would be to prevent his obtaining any stock-money in the future. With this capital he starts on his rounds about eight in the morning, and I am assured he will frequently begin his work without tasting food rather than break into the borrowed stock-money. Each man has his particular walk, and never interferes with that of his neighbour; indeed, while upon another's beat, he will seldom cry for clothes. Sometimes they gohalf rybeck together--that is, they will share the profits of the day's business; and when they agree to do this, the one will take one street, and the other another. The lower the neighbourhood the more old clothes are there for sale. At the East-end of the town they like the neighbourhoods frequented by sailors; and there they purchase of the girls and the women the sailors' jackets and trousers. But they buy most of the Petticoat Lane, the Old Clothes Exchange,. and the marinestore dealers; for, as the Jew clothes-man never travels thee streets by night-time, the parties who then have old clothes' to dispose of usually sell them to the marine-store or second-hand dealers over-night, and the Jew buys them in the morning. The first that he does on his rounds is to seek out these shops, and see what he can pick up there. A very great amount of business is done by the Jew clothes-man at the marine-store shops at the West as well as at the East-end of London.

Within, a short distance of stood , built on the site of of the receptacles for the dead during the raging of the great Plague in .

The upper end of

Hand Alley

, in

Bishopsgate Street

,

writes Defoe,

which was then a green, and was taken in particularly for Bishopsgate parish, though many of the carts out of the city brought their dead thither also, particularly out of the parish of St. Allhallowsin- the-Wall: this place I cannot mention without much regret. It was, as I remember, about

two

or

three

years after the Plague was ceased, that Sir Robert Clayton came to be possessed of the ground. It was reported, how true I know not, that it fell to the king for want of heirs, all those

who had any right to it being carried off by the pestilence, and that Sir Robert Clayton obtained a grant of it from Charles II. But however he came by it, certain it is the ground was let out to be built upon, or built upon by his order. The

first

house built upon it was a large fair house, still standing, which faces the street or way now called

Hand Alley

, which, though called an alley, is as wide as a street. The houses, in the same row with that house northward, are built on the very same ground where the poor people were buried, and the bodies, on opening the ground for the foundations, were dug up; some of them remaining so plain to be seen, that the women's skulls were distinguished by their long hair, and of others the flesh was not quite perished, so that the people began to exclaim loudly against it, and some suggested that it might endanger a return of the contagion. After which the bones and bodies, as they came at them, were carried to another part of the same ground, and thrown all together into a deep pit dug on purpose, which now is to be known in that it is not built on, but is a passage to another house at the upper end of

Rose Alley

, just against the door of a meeting-house. There lie the bones and remains of near

2,000

bodies, carried by the dead-carts to their graves in that

one

year.

A turning from , of unsavoury memory, leads to . Here formerly stood the city mansion and gardens of the abbots of Bury. The corruption of Bury's Marks to is undoubted, though not obvious. Stow describes it as

one

great house, large of rooms, fair courts, and garden plots'

some time pertaining to the Bassets, and afterwards to the abbots of Bury. , where the old house stood, was remarkable for a synagogue of Portuguese Jews, and a Dissenting chapel, where the good Dr. Watts was for many years pastor.

Towards , close to , stood the Papey, a religious house belonging to a brotherhood of St. John and St. Charity (our readers will remember Shakespeare talks of

By Gis and by St. Charity

), founded in , by charity priests. The members were professional mourners, and are often so represented on monuments. The original band consisted of a master, wardens, chaplains, chantry priests, conducts, and other brothers and sisters. Sir Francis Walsingham, Elizabeth's astute and wily secretary, afterwards inhabited the house.

, as late as the reign of Charles I., was (says Cunningham) of the most fashionable streets in London. In Elizabeth's reign, Gilbert Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, lived here, and, in Charles's time, Lords Weston and Dover. Here at the same time was a glass-house, where Venice glasses (then so prized) were made by Venetian workmen. Mr. James Howell, author of the which bear his name, was (says Strype) steward to this house. When Howell, unable to bear the heat of the place, gave up his stewardship, he said, if he had stayed much longer, he should in a short time have melted to nothing among these hot Venetians. The place afterwards became Pinners' Hall, and then a Dissenting chapel. The Pinners, or Pinmakers, were incorporated by Charles I. In -[extra_illustrations.2.165.1]  drew up his forces in Finsbury, dined with the Lord Mayor, had conference with him and the Court of Aldermen, retired to the

Bull's head,

in , and quartered at the glass-house, in , multitudes of people following him, and congratulating him on his coming into the city, amid shouting, clashing bells, and lighted bonfires.

In the elder Dance built the [extra_illustrations.2.166.1]  which was removed in to . This Government Office originally stood on the west side of , where was formerly the mansion of Sir J. Frederick. For a year the trustees of the Gresham estates annihilated Gresham College. Dance's building, of stone and brick, was much praised for its simple grandeur. Charles J. seems to have intended to levy excise duties as early as , but the Parliament stopped him. The Parliament, however, to maintain their forces, were compelled to found an , in , and ale, beer, cider, and perry were the articles taxed, together with wine, silks, fur, hats, and lace. There were riots in London about the new system, and the mob burnt down the Excise House in . The Excise revenue at amounted to . The act after the Restoration was to abolish excise on all articles except ale, &c., which produced an annual revenue of . The duties on glass and malt were imposed in William's reign, and the salt duty was then re-imposed. Queen Anne's expensive wars led to duties on paper and soap; and her revenue from excise amounted to. a year. In the reign of George I. the produce of the Excise averaged . Sir Robert Walpole did all he could to extend the Excise, while Pitt carried out all Walpole had attempted. In , no fewer than articles were subject to the Excise laws, and the gross revenue from them amounted to millions and a half. In , the number of officers employed in England was . In

p.166

the years after the peace, the reduction of duties led to the dismissal of Excise officers.

of the most distinguished inhabitants of , many years ago, was the great surgeon, [extra_illustrations.2.166.2] .

He was then,

says

Aleph,

attached to

Guy's Hospital

, having a large class of pupils, and a numerous morning levee of city patients. His house was a capacious corner tenement in

Broad Street

, on the righthand side of the wide-paved court leading by St. Botolph's Church into

Bishopsgate Street

. When patients applied they were ushered into a large front room, which would comfortably receive from

forty

to

fifty

persons. It was plainly furnished; the floor covered with a Turkey carpet, a goodly muster of lumbering mahogany horse-hair seated chairs, a long table in the centre, with a sprinkling of tattered books and stale periodicals,

Asperne's Magazine,

and the

British Critic,

and a dingy, damaged pier-glass over the chimney. Sir Astley Cooper's earnings during the

first

nine

years of his practice progressed thus-

First

year,

5

guineas;

second

,

26

;

third

,

£ 64

;

fourth

,

£ 96

;

fifth

,

£ 100

;

sixth

,

£ 200

;

seventh

,

£ 400

;

eighth

,

£ 600

;

ninth

,

1,100

. But the time was coming when patients were to stand for hours in his ante-rooms waiting for an interview, and were often dismissed without being admitted to the consulting-room. His man Charles, with infinite dignity, used to say to the disappointed applicants when they reappeared next morning,

I am not at all sure that we shall be able to attend to you, for we are excessively busy, and our list is full for the day; but if you'll wait, I'll see what can be done for you.

The largest sum Sir Astley ever received in year was , but for a series of years his income was more than per annum. As long as he lived in the city his gains were enormous, though they varied, the state of the money market having a curious effect on his fees. Most of his city patients paid their fee with a cheque, and seldom wrote for less than Mr. Coles, of , for a long period paid him a year. A city man, who consulted him in , and departed without giving any fee, soon after sent a cheque for A West Indian millionaire gave Sir Astley his largest fee. He had undergone successfully a painful operation, and paid his physicians, Lettsom and Nelson, with guineas each.

But you, sir,

cried the grateful old man, sitting up in bed, and addressing Cooper,

shall have something better. There, sir, take that!

It was his nightcap, which he flung at the surprised surgeon.

Sir,

answered Cooper,

I'll pocket the affront,

and on reaching home he found in the cap a draft for guineas. When Sir Astley left he established himself in , and there, too, his practice was very considerable, but neither so extensive nor lucrative as that he enjoyed in the city. He died in .

In , on taking down the , at about feet lower than the foundation of Gresham House, was found a pavement twentyeight feet square. It is a geometrical pattern of broad blue lines, forming intersections of octagon and lozenge compartments. The octagon figures are bordered with a cable pattern, shaded with grey, and interlaced with a square border, shaded with red and yellow. In the centres, within a ring, are expanded flowers, shaded in red, yellow, and grey; the double row of leaves radiating from a figure called a truelove-knot, alternately with a figure something like the tiger-lily. Between the octagon figures are square compartments bearing various devices; in the centre of the pavement is Ariadne, or a Bacchante, reclining on the back of a panther; but only the fore-paws, of the hind-paws, and the tail remain. Over the head of the figure floats a light drapery forming an arch. Another square contains a -handled vase. In the demi-octagons, at the sides of the pattern, are lunettes; contains a fan ornament, another a bowl crowned with flowers. The lozenge intersections are variously embellished with leaves, shells, truelove-knots, chequers, and an ornament shaped like a dice-box. At the corners of the pattern are truelove-knots. Surrounding this pattern, in a broad cable-like border, are broad bands of blue and white alternately.

[extra_illustrations.2.166.3] , , stands near the site of old Paulet House. Stow thinks this may once have been a poor parish, and so gives its name to the saint,

though at this present time there be many fair houses possessed by rich merchants and others.

The church being in a ruinous condition, was pulled down in I, rebuilt by Jesse Gibson, and consecrated by Bishop Porteus in .

leads us into the interesting region of , a district rich in antiquities. Here once stood a priory of begging friars, founded, in , by Humphrey Bohun, Earl of Hereford and Essex, and dedicated to St. Augustine, Bishop of Hippo, in Africa. The church was ornamented

with a fine spired steeple, small, high, and straight,

which Stow admired. At the dissolution of the monasteries, Henry VIII. granted the friars' house and grounds to William Paulet, Marquis of Winchester, Comptroller

p.167

of the Household, and Lord High Treasurer, who made the place his town residence. The church was reserved, and given by Edward VI., to the Dutchmen of London, to have their services in,

for avoiding of all sects of Ana-Baptists, and such like.

The decorated windows of the church are still preserved, but the spire and the splendid tombs mentioned by Stow are gone.

Here,

says Mr. Jesse,

lies the pious founder of the priory, Humphrey de Bohun, who stood godfather at the font for Edward I., and who afterwards fought against Henry III., with the leagued barons, at the battle of Evesham. Here were interred the remains of the great, Hubert de Burgh, Earl of Kent, the most powerful subject in Europe during the reigns of King John and Henry III., and no less celebrated for his chequered and romantic fortunes. Here rests Edmund, son of Joan Plantagenet,

the Fair Maid of Kent,

and half-brother to Richard II. Here lies the headless trunk of the gallant Fitzallan,

tenth

Earl of Arundel, who was executed in

Cheapside

in

1397

. Here also rest the mangled remains of the barons who fell at the battle of Barnet, in

1471

, and who were interred together in the body of the church; of John de Vere,

twelfth

Earl of Oxford, who was beheaded on

Tower Hill

with his eldest son, Aubrey, in

1461

; and, lastly, of the gallant and princely Edward Stafford, Duke of Buckingham-

poor Edward Bohun

--who, having fallen a victim to the vindictive jealousy of Cardinal Wolsey, was beheaded on

Tower Hill

in

1521

.

The Rev. Mr. Hugo says that the old conventual [extra_illustrations.2.167.1]  had all the magnificence of a cathedral; it consisted of [extra_illustrations.2.167.2] , feet in length, broad, with ample transepts and choir. There are visible monumental slabs; with or more small figures, and with or more shields and small inscriptions at the foot. These slabs have been used as paving stones; some years ago many more were visible, but they are now concealed by the flooring.

In () Richard Gough the antiquary was born, and here, at No. , lived James Smith, of the authors of the A James Smith coming to the place, after he had been many years a resident here, produced so much confusion to both, that the last comer waited on the author and suggested, to prevent future inconvenience, that or other had better leave, hinting, at the same time, that he should like to stay.

No,

said the wit,

I am James the

First

, you are James the

Second

; you must abdicate.

Lord Winchester died in , and his son, having sold the monuments at for , took the lead off the roof, and made stabling of the church ground. In a marquis was so poor as to be compelled to part with to John Swinnerton, a London merchant, afterwards Lord Mayor. Fulke Greville (Sir Philip Sidney's friend), who lived in , wrote in alarm at this change to the Countess of Shrewsbury, of his neighbours. Lady Warwick seems to have been another tenant of the Friary.

In , adjoining , stood [extra_illustrations.2.167.3]  built by the Marquis of Winchester, who also founded Basing House. This nobleman died in , in his year, having lived under sovereigns, and having persons immediately descended from him. When this marquis was asked how he had retained royal favour and power under so many conflicting sovereigns, he replied,

By being a willow, and not an oak.

Mr. Jesse visited the house before its demolition, in , and found the old Paulet motto,

Aimez Loyaulte,

on many of the stained-glass windows. This was the motto that the Marquis of Winchester, during the gallant defence of Basing House, engraved with a diamond on every window of his mansion. It was in apartments of this house in that Anne Clifford, daughter of the Countess of Cumberland, was married to her husband, Richard, Earl of Dorset, on the -. It was this proud lady (already mentioned by us) who returned the defiant answer to the election agents of Charles II.,

Your man shall not stand.

In , the Earl of Strafford (a victim of the sham Popish plot), when representing York, took up his residence in , with his young children and the fair wife whom he lost in the following year, and whom he alluded to in his trial as

a saint in heaven.

In died, in , James Heywood, who had been of the popular writers in the . He is said to have been originally a wholesale linendraper in .

Nearly at the end of Little is [extra_illustrations.2.168.1] . It escaped the Great Fire, but, becoming ruinous, was taken down in , and the present church built by the younger Dance. In the chancel is a tablet to the Rev. W. Beloe, the well-known translator of Herodotus, who died in , after having held the rectory of the parish for years. The altar-piece, a copy of Pietro di Cortona's was the gift of Sir N. Dance. The parish books, commencing .

p.168

[extra_illustrations.2.168.2] [extra_illustrations.2.168.3] 
record the benefactions of an anchorite who lived near the church.

, an adjoining street, is interesting, as indicating the site of that portion of the old city wall that divided the city Liberty from the Manor of Finsbury. The old Bethlehem Hospital, taken down in , was built against the portion of the wall then removed Hughson says the Roman work was found uncommonly thick, the bricks being double the size of those now used, and the centre filled in with large loose stones. The level of the street has been raised feet within the last years. The old Roman wall, it will be remembered, ran from the Tower through the to

, , Bishopsgate, along , to ; through Cripplegate and to Aldersgate; and through , by Newgate and Ludgate, to the Thames.

In this street stands [extra_illustrations.2.168.4] , built on the site of the Priory of Elsing Spital. Elsing was a London mercer, who, about , founded an hospital for blind men on the site of a decayed nunnery. The house was subsequently turned into a priory, consisting of canons regular, to minister to the blind, Elsing himself being the prior.

The ground so long consecrated to charity was purchased, in pursuance of the will of Dr. Thomas

p.169

p.170

White, vicar of St. Dunstan's-in-the-West, and in , a college was erected, governed by a president, deans, and assistants. Dr. John Simson, rector of , , and of Dr. White's executors, founded a library. It contains the Jesuit books seized in , and half the library of Sir Robert Cooke, the gift of George Lord Berkeley, in the reign of Charles II., but a of the books were destroyed in the Great Fire. By the Copyright Act of Queen Anne, the library received a gratuitous copy of every work published, till , when the college received instead a Treasury grant of a year. The library contains more than volumes and is open to the public by an order from of the Fellows. The College contains a curious old picture of the with an inscription in Saxon characters, supposed to have come from Elsing's old priory. There is also a good portrait for costume of Her husband, a printer ( William and Mary), was a donor to the library.

Defoe, in his , speaks of Sion College as designed for the use of the clergy in and round London, where expectants could lodge till they were provided with houses in their own parishes. There was also a hospital for poor men and poor women.

 
 
Footnotes:

[extra_illustrations.2.159.1] Gateway in Crosby Square

[extra_illustrations.2.159.2] The church of St. Botolph, Bishopsgate

[extra_illustrations.2.159.3] a tomb, date 1626, of a Persian ambassador

[extra_illustrations.2.159.4] St. Ethelburga

[extra_illustrations.2.160.1] Gresham College

[extra_illustrations.2.160.2] Leathersellers' Hall

[extra_illustrations.2.160.3] The old hall

[extra_illustrations.2.160.4] a curious pump

[extra_illustrations.2.160.5] Old Kitchen, Leathersellers' Hall

[extra_illustrations.2.161.2] Hobson the old Cambridge carrier

[extra_illustrations.2.161.3] The first Bethlehem Hospital

[extra_illustrations.2.162.1] London Trained Bands

[extra_illustrations.2.165.1] Monk

[extra_illustrations.2.166.1] Excise Office in 1768

[extra_illustrations.2.166.2] Sir Astley Cooper

[extra_illustrations.2.166.3] The church of St. Peter le Poor

[extra_illustrations.2.167.1] church of Austin Friars

[extra_illustrations.2.167.2] the present nave

[extra_illustrations.2.167.3] Winchester House

[extra_illustrations.2.168.1] the Church of Allhallows-in-the-Wall

[extra_illustrations.2.168.2] Abion Chapel, London Wall

[extra_illustrations.2.168.3] New Building, Sion College

[extra_illustrations.2.168.4] Sion College

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 Title Page
 Chapter I: Fishmonger's Hall and Fish Street Hill
 Chapter II: London Bridge
 Chapter III: Upper Thames Street
 Chapter IV: Upper Thames Street
 Chapter V: Lower Thames Street
 Chapter VI: The Tower
 Chapter VII: The Tower (continued)
 Chapter VIII: Old Jewel House
 Chapter IX: The Tower, Visitors to the Tower
 Chapter X: The Neighbourhood of the Tower
 Chapter XI: Neighbourhood of the Tower, The Mint
 Chapter XII: Neighbourhood Of The Tower
 Chapter XIII: St. Katherine's Docks
 Chapter XIV: The Tower Subway and London Docks
 Chapter XV: The Thames Tunnel
 Chapter XVI: Stepney
 Chapter XVII: Whitechapel
 Chapter XVIII: Bethnal Green
 Chapter XIX: Spitalfields
 Chapter XX: Bishopsgate
 Chapter XXI: Bishopsgate
 Chapter XXII: Cornhill
 Chapter XXIII: Leadenhall Street
 Chapter XXIV: Leadenhall Street
 Chapter XXV: Shoreditch
 Chapter XXVI: Moorfields
 Chapter XXVII: Aldersgate Street
 Chapter XXVIII: Aldersgate Street
 Chapter XXIX: Cripplegate
 Chapter XXX: Aldgate
 Chapter XXXI: Islington
 Chapter XXXII: Islington
 Chapter XXXIII: Canonbury
 Chapter XXXIV: Highbury-Upper Holloway-King's Cross
 Chapter XXXV: Pentonville
 Chapter XXXVI: Sadler's Wells
 Chapter XXXVII: Bagnigge Wells
 Chapter XXXIII: Coldbath Fields and Spa Fields
 Chapter XXXIX: Hockley-In-The-Hole
 Chapter XL: Clerkenwell
 Chapter XLI: Clerkenwell-(continued)
 Chapter XLII: Smithfield
 Chapter XLIII: Smithfield and Bartholomew Fair
 Chapter XLIV: The Churches of Bartholomeu-The-Great and Bartholomew-The-Less
 Chapter XLV: St. Bartholomew's Hospital
 Chapter XLVI: Christ's Hospital
 Chapter XLVII: The Charterhouse
 Chapter XLVIII: The Charterhouse--(continued)
 Chapter XLIX: The Fleet Prison
 Chapter L: The Fleet River and Fleet Ditch
 Chapter LI: Newgate Street
 Chapter LII: Newgate
 Chapter LII: Newgate (continued)
 Chapter LIV: The Old Bailey
 Chapter LV: St. Sepulchre's and its Neighbourhood
 Chapter LVI: The Metropolitan Meat-Market
 Chapter LVII: Farringdon Street, Holborn Viaduct, and St. Andrew's Church
 Chapter LVIII: Ely Place
 Chapter LIX: Holborn, to Chancery Lane
 Chapter LX: The Northern Tributaries of Holborn
 Chapter LXI: The Holborn Inns of Court and Chancery
 Chapter LXII: The Holborn Inns of Court and Chancery (continued)