Old and New London, A Narrative of its History, its People and its Places. Illustrated with Numerous Engravings from the Most Authentic Sources. vol 2

Thornbury, Walter

1872-78

Chapter XXII: Cornhill, Gracechurch Street, and Fenchurch Street.New Building-Cornhill Pump on site of Tun Provident Life Office

Chapter XXII: Cornhill, Gracechurch Street, and Fenchurch Street.New Building-Cornhill Pump on site of Tun Provident Life Office

 

What we have already written of the discovery of Roman antiquities on the site of the will serve to show how completely [extra_illustrations.2.170.4]  traverses the centre of Roman London.

A corn-market, says Stow, was

time out of mind, there holden.

Drapers were the earliest inhabitants. Lydgate speaks of it as a place where old clothes were bought, and sometimes stolen--

Then into Corn Hyl anon I yode,

Where was mutch stolen gere amonge;

I saw where honge myne owne hoode,

That I had lost amonge the thronge;

To buy my own hood I thought it wronge,

I knew it well as I dyd my crede,

But for lack of money I could not spede.

The great ornaments of mediaeval were the Tun, a round house, or temporary prison, and the Standard, a water conduit, and point of measurement.

The Tun, says Stow, was built in the year , by Henry Wallis, Mayor of London, as a prison for night offenders. For breaking open the prison and releasing prisoners, certain citizens, in the reign of Edward I., were fined . Abandoned priests were sometimes locked up here. In , the Tun was turned into a conduit, and a cage, stocks, and pillory added, for scolds and cheating bakers. Rascals of various kinds were, in Edward IV.'s reign, compelled to ride from Newgate to this pillory, in , and there stand, with papers detailing their offences tied to their heads.

The Standard was a conduit, with spouts, made by Peter Morris, a German, in the year , and supplied with Thames water, conveyed by leaden pipes over the steeple of St. Magnus' Church. It stood at the east end of , at its junction with , , and . The water ceased to run between and , but the Standard itself remained long after. It was much used as a point of measurement of distances; and Cunningham says that several of our suburban milestones are still inscribed with

so many miles from the Standard in

Cornhill

.

There was a Standard in as early as the of Henry V.

, considering its commercial importance, is a street by no means full of old memories.

St. Michael's, , is of London churches dedicated to the Archangel Michael, the patron saint of France. It formerly faced , but in the reign of Edward IV. it was blocked out by houses, and it may now be described as standing on the east side of St. Michael's Alley. It is probable that a Saxon church stood here; but the earliest record of the fabric is previous to . In that year the Abbot of Evesham granted it to Sparling, a priest, for the rent of a year, and lodging, salt, water, and firing to the abbot, whenever he came to London.

p.171

[extra_illustrations.2.171.1] 
In the Abbey of Evesham ceded it to the Drapers' Company for an annuity of

William Rous, sheriff of London in , and who was buried in the chapel of St. Mary in this church, left to found an altar in the chancel, and towards a new tower, the old having been burnt down in . At the south side of the church there was originally a cloister, and in the churchyard a pulpit-cross, built by Sir John Rudston, Lord Mayor of London, who was buried beneath it. In the church is interred of our old chroniclers, Alderman Fabian, who died in . He is well known for his which he termed

The Concordance of Histories.

Here also rest the remains of the ancestors of another useful London chronicler, who was born in this parish, where his predecessors had resided for generations. Stow's father and grandfather were both buried here. The grandfather, a tallow-chandler, with due remembrance of candles sold by him for such purposes, directs in his will that from All Hallows' Day till the Candlemas following a watching-candle burn on all the altars of the church from o'clock till past , in worship of the sacraments. He also gave to a poor man and woman, every Sunday in year, penny to say paternosters and aves and a creed for his soul.

The old church, all but the tower, was destroyed by the Great Fire, and Wren commenced [extra_illustrations.2.171.2]  in . The tower itself had to be rebuilt in . The body of the church is in the Italian style, divided by Doric columns and arches. The tower is perpendicular, in imitation of the chapel tower at Magdalen College, Oxford, and it rises to the height of feet. Wren spoiled his rival tower by a mixture of Italian details. This church was magnificently decorated in , from designs by [extra_illustrations.2.171.3] .

The chronicler Stow has the following legend, relating how the devil came down to St. Michael's belfry in a storm of lightning :--

Upon St. James's Night,

says our venerable author,

certain men in the loft next under the bells, ringing of a peal, a tempest of lightning and thunder did arise: an ugly-shapen sight appeared to them coming in at the south window and lighted on the north. For fear whereof they all fell down, and lay as dead for the time, letting the bells ring and cease of their own accord. When the ringers came to themselves, they found certain stones of the north window to be raised and scratched, as if they had been so much butter printed with a lyon's claw; the same stones were fastened there again, and so remain till this day. I have seen them oft, and have put a feather or small stick into the holes where the claws had entered

three

or

four

inches deep.

A brass slab preserved at [extra_illustrations.2.171.4] , claims that building as the Christian church founded in London. The legendary founder was Lucius, the Christian king, A.D. . It is said to have remained the metropolitan church of the kingdom till the coming of St. Augustine, years after.

In the reign of Henry III. Geffrey Russell, who had been implicated in a murder said to have been committed by another man in Churchyard, fled for sanctuary to . In the year , of the priests attached to , , was murdered. The patronage of the rectory came into the hands of Sir Richard Whittington, and others, who conveyed it, in , to the Lord Mayor and Commonalty of London. Among the celebrated rectors we must not forget Dr. William Beveridge, afterwards Bishop of St. Asaph. Dr. Beveridge (died ) was an eminent theological writer, famous for his Syriac Grammar, and his laborious work on the Apostolical Canons. The old church was destroyed by the Great Fire, and the present edifice erected in by Sir Christopher Wren. The tower of brick is surmounted by a small leaden cupola and spire, crowned by an enormous key. The church contains a tablet recording the death, in a great fire, , of the children of James Woodmason, of . Leading from the church, it is said, is a subterranean passage, entered by a flight of steps from the belfry. Some

London tavern

apprentices are reported. many years ago, to have explored this passage, which is now bricked up. Many years ago a stone coffin and urn were found within the enclosure of the church.

of the most celebrated taverns in was the

Pope's head,

mentioned as early as the reign of Edward IV. Here, in the reign of Henry VI., wine was sold at a penny a pint, without charge for bread. Stow seems to think the

Pope's head

had once been a royal palace. In his time the ancient arms of England ( leopards supported by angels) were to be seen engraved in stone on the walls. It was here that the Alicant and English goldsmiths decided their wager, as we have already mentioned in our chapter on the Goldsmiths' Company. In , Sir William Craven (father of the Earl of Craven) left the

Pope's head

to the Merchant Taylors' Company, for charitable purposes, and the Company had in houses on that spot. The edition of Speed's (folio, ) was sold by John Sudbury and George Humble in Pope's head

p.172

[extra_illustrations.2.172.1] 
Alley, at the sign of the

White Horse.

This firm, says Cunningham, were the printsellers established in London. Ben Jonson mentions the pamphlets of Pope's Alley, and Peacham, in his alludes to the printsellers. Before the Great Fire, the alley was famous for its traders in toys and turners' ware. In Strype's time ( years later) it was especially affected by cutlers. The

Pope's head

tavern was the scene of a fray, in , between Quin, the actor, and his fellow-comedian Bowen. The latter, a hotheaded Irishman, jealous of Quin's success, sent for him to the

Pope's head.

As soon as Quin entered, Bowen, in a transport of envy and rage, planted his back against the door, drew his sword, --and bade Quin draw his. Quin in vain remonstrated, but at last drew in his own defence, and tried to disarm his antagonist. Bowen eventually received a mortal wound, of which he died in days, confessing at last his folly and madness. Quin was tried, and honourably acquitted.

has been the scene of dreadful fires. The , in , commenced at a peruke-maker's, in Exchange Alley, and burnt from to houses, valued at , and many lives were lost. This conflagration swept away a few historical houses, including the London Assurance Office, the

Fleece

and

Three

Tuns

taverns,

Tom's

and the

Rainbow

coffee-houses, the

Swan

tavern,

Garraway's,

Jonathan's,

and the

Jerusalem

coffee-houses, in Exchange Alley, besides the

George and Vulture

tavern. It likewise destroyed No. , , a few doors from , the house where, in , the poet Gray had been born. Gray's father was an Exchange broker. The house was rebuilt, and was, in , occupied by Natzell, a perfumer. In the occupant was also a perfumer. The great fire, in , also commenced at a peruke-maker's, in , near . It made a clean sweep of all the houses from to St.. Martin Outwich; and the church parsonage, Merchant Taylors' Hall, and several houses in , were much damaged. The

White Lion

tavern, purchased the evening before for , all the houses in , houses in , and several houses in , were burnt, and several lives lost.

No. , , with an old-fashioned front, was the shop of Messrs. Birch, the celebrated cooks and confectioners. We have already mentioned Mr. Birch, Lord Mayor in -, as the poet and orator, who wrote the and other dramatic works. He annually presented the mayor with a splendid cake, to keep Twelfth Night.

At a corner house, says Mr. Timbs, between and , Thomas Guy, the wealthy stationer, commenced business. He was the son of a lighterman at Horsleydown, and was apprenticed to a bookseller, as before mentioned by us. The

Lucky Corner

was subsequently Pidding's Lottery Office. There were other lottery offices in , including that of Carroll, Lord Mayor in .

[extra_illustrations.2.172.2] , , recalls the days of the South Sea Bubble, and brings up recollections of Addison, Pope, and Gay. The latter poet mentions it in his verses to his friend Snow, the goldsmith and banker, near , who had been caught by the Bubble:--

Why did 'Change Alley waste thy precious hours

Among the fools who gaped for golden show'rs?

No wonder if we found some poets there,

Who live on fancy, and can feed on air;

No wonder they were caught by South Sea schemes,

Who ne'er enjoyed a guinea but in dreams.

In St. Michael's Alley, in the time of the Commonwealth, the London coffee-house was established. It was opened, about the year , by Bowman, the ex-coachman of Mr. Hodges, a Turkey merchant. His partner was Pasque Rosee, a Levantine servant of the same merchant. Bowman afterwards dissolved partnership, and obtained leave to pitch a tent and sell the

sooty drink,

at so much villified by the jealous vintners, in St. Michael's churchyard. years after, Bowman's apprentice set up a coffee-house opposite St. Michael's Church. The novelty was soon over, in spite of--the lampooners, who declared it made men unfruitful, and that to drink the new liquor was to ape the Turks and insult 's canarydrinking ancestors.

Were it the mode,

says the writer of (),

men would eat spiders.

[extra_illustrations.2.173.1]  the coffee-house celebrated for centuries, in Exchange Alley, is now pulled down. It was here that, after the Restoration, Garraway issued the following shop-bill:--

Tea in England hath been sold in the leaf for

six pounds

, and sometimes for

ten pounds

the pound weight, and in respect of its former scarceness and dearness it hath been only used as a regalia in high treatments and entertainments, and presents made thereof to princes and grandees, till the year

1657

. The said Thomas Garway did purchase a quantity thereof, and

first

publicly sold the said tea in leaf, and drink made according to the directions of the most knowing merchants and travellers into those eastern countries; and upon knowledge and experience of the said Garway's continued care and

industry in obtaining the best tea, and making drink thereof, very many noblemen, physicians, merchants, and gentlemen of quality, have ever since sent to him for the said leaf, and daily resort to, his house, in Exchange Alley aforesaid, to drink the drink thereof. These are to give notice that the said Thomas Garway hath tea to sell from

16s.

to

50s.

a pound.

Defoe () mentions Garraway's as frequented about noon by people of quality who had business in the city, and the more considerable and wealthy citizens. [extra_illustrations.2.173.2] , in his ballad on the South Sea Bubble, calls Change Alley

a narrow sound though deep as hell,

and describes the wreckers watching for the shipwrecked dead on

Garraway's cliffs.

excellent anecdotes of [extra_illustrations.2.173.3] , the eminent physician of the reigns of William III. and Queen Anne, connect him with Garraway's The relates to Dr. Hannes, a quack, who had ordered his servant to stop a number of gentlemen's coaches between and the , and inquire whether they belonged to Dr. Hannes, as if he was called to a patient. Not hearing of him in any coach, the fellow ran up into Exchange Alley, and entering Garraway's Coffee House, made the same interrogatories both above and below. At last, Dr. Radcliffe, who was usually there about Exchange time, and planted at a table with several apothecaries and chirurgeons that flocked about him, cried out,

Dr. Hanes was not there,

and desired to know

Who wanted him?

The fellow's reply was such a lord and such a lord; but he was taken up with the dry rebuke,

No, no, friend, you are mistaken; the doctor wants those lords.

A famous physician (Dr. Radcliffe) ventured

5,000

guineas upon a project in the South Sea. When he was told at Garraway's that

'twas all lost,

Why,

says he,

'tis but going up 5,000 pair of stairs more.

This answer deserved a statue.

Steele, in the , mentions receiving some French wine as a taster of hogsheads, to be put up at the hogshead at Garraway's.

Garraway's closed after a joyous existence of years. As a place of sale, exchange, auction, and lottery, it was never excelled. Here tea was sold, and here the South Sea Bubblers met.

Jonathan's

was another well-known Change Alley coffee-house of the old times. It is described in the as

the general mart for stockjob- bers ;

and Addison, in the , No. , says,

I sometimes pass for a Jew in the assembly of stock-jobbers at

Jonathan's.

Mrs. Centlivre has laid of the scenes of her at

Jonathan's.

While the business goes on she makes the coffee-boys cry,

Fresh coffee, gentlemen! fresh coffee! Bohea tea, gentlemen!

In Freeman's Court, , taken down about to build larger houses, Defoe carried on the business of hose-factor in , as we learn from the following proclamation;--

St. James's, Jan. 10, 1702-3.

Whereas Daniel De Foe, alias De Fooe, is charged with writing a scandalous and seditious pamphlet, entitled The Shortest Way with the Dissenters. He is a middlesized, spare man, about forty years old; of a brown complexion, and dark brown-coloured hair, but wears a wig; a hooked nose, a sharp chin, grey eyes, and a large mole near his mouth; was born in London, and for many years was a hose-factor in Freeman's Yard, in Cornhill, and now is owner of the brick and pantile works near Tilbury Fort, in Essex. Whoever shall discover the said Daniel De Foe to one of Her Majesty's Principal Secretaries of State, or any of Her Majesty's Justices of Peace, so as he many be apprehended, shall have a reward of 50, which Her Majesty has ordered immediately to be paid upon such discovery,

derived its name from Robert Finke, the worthy citizen who built St. Bennet-Finke, the church pulled down to enlarge the Exchange.

is thus described by Stow, the Herodotus of old London:--

Then have ye Birchover Lane, so called of Birchover,

the

first

builder and owner thereof, now corruptly called

Birchin Lane

. This lane, and the

High Street

, near adjoining, hath been inhabited for the most part with wealthy drapers; from

Birchin Lane

, on that side of the street down to the Stocks, in the reign of Henry VI., had ye for the most part dwelling fripperers or upholders, that sold old apparel and household stuffs.

Dekker, in his speaks of the whalebone doublets of ; and of Middleton's characters purchases there

a captain's suit, a valiant buff doublet, stuffed with points, and a pair of velvet slops scored thick with lace.

In Strype's time was still famous for old clothes. Garrick, always a strategist, kept up his interest in the city, says Sir John Hawkins, by appearing about twice a winter at Tom's Coffee House , the usual rendezvous of young merchants at 'Change time. Poor Chatterton, writing to his sister, , with his usual air of feigned success, says,--

There is such a noise of business and politics in the room (Tom's) that my inaccuracy in writing here is highly excusable. My present profession obliges me to frequent places of the best resort.

Some London streets seem determined never to distinguish themselves. No mediaeval scuffle has ever occurred in them; no celebrated church hoards its monuments; no city hall cherishes its relics there; no celebrated person has honoured it by

p.174

birth or death. is of these unambitious streets. It derived its name, says Stow, from the grass or herb market there kept in old time, and which gave its name to the parish church of St. Bennet.

St. Bennet Gracechurch, described by Stow, was destroyed in the Great Fire, and another structure, recently pulled down, erected from Wren's designs in . It is now united with the parishes of Allhallows, and , . The register, says Cunningham, records the following burial-:

1559

,

April 14

, Robert Burges, a common player,

probably from the theatre in the yard of the

Cross Keys.

In , Tarlton, the favourite clown of Elizabeth's time, a droll, short, flat-nosed fellow, who sang comic songs to the music of a pipe and tabor (he was probably the representative of Touchstone, and others of Shakespeare's jesters), lodged at the sign of the

Saba,

probably to be near the

Cross Keys.

He was chosen scavenger by the ward, and was constantly complained of for not keeping the streets clean. In the old book called an early

Joe Miller,

the following story is told of this street:--

 

There was

one

Banks, in the time of Tarlton, who served the Earl of Essex, and had a horse of strange qualities, and being at the

Crosse Keyes

in Gracious Streete, getting money with him, as he was mightily resorted to, Tarlton then, with his fellowes, playing at the

Bel

by, came into the

Crosse Keyes,

amongst many people, to see fashions, which Banks perceiving, to make the people laugh saies,

Signior,

to his horse,

go fetch me the veriest fool in the company.

The jade comes immediately, and with his mouth draws Tarlton forth. Tarlton, with merry words, said nothing but

God a mercy, horse

Ever after it was a by-word through London,

God a mercy, horse!

and is to this day.

Taylor, the water poet, in his little directory, the (), mentions the

Tabard, near the Conduit,

and the

Spread Eagle

,

both in

Gracious Street.

In White Hart Court was a Quakers' meeting-house, and here, in , at the house of Henry Goldney, died that strange, but honest fanatic, George Fox, the founder of the sect. Fox was the son of a Leicestershire weaver, and being

converted

at , betook himself to itinerant preaching. He was examined

p.175

by Cromwell on occasion, and kindly treated; and on the rumour that Oliver was going to make himself king, Fox went to him and personally remonstrated. Fox preached at this meeting-house in White Hart Court only a few days before his death. Penn says: of Fox that he had an extraordinary gift in

opening

the Scriptures, and that above all he excelled in prayer. In Nag's head Court died, in , Matthew Green, the hypochondriacal author of He held a post in the , and was nephew to a clerk of Fishmongers' Hall. His pleasant poem was posthumous, and was printed by Glover. It was approved by Pope and Gray, and will certainly live, if only for the celebrated line--

Throw but a stone, the giant dies.

A happy image, in singularly small compass.

another thoroughfare scanty in memories, and therefore still open for future fame, took its name from the marshy ground on the banks of the Langbourne. Indeed, even in Stow's time, the ward was called Langbourne or Fennieabout; yet at that date some crotchety antiquaries insisted that it was called Fenchurch from or hay sold there, as Gracechurch from its grass and herbs.

In this street, which runs from Gracechurch to , formerly stood Denmark House, the residence, in the reign of Philip and Mary (), of the Russian ambassador sent to England.

p.176

The Russian Company had just started, and our merchants, eager for barbaric furs, gold, and amber, treated the Muscovite duke's envoy with prudent respect. They met him, with their velvet gowns and gold chains, at Tottenham. At Lord Montacute, the Queen's pensioner, welcomed his approach, and at the same place the Lord Mayor and aldermen, in a blaze of scarlet, came up, and accompanied him to Master Dimmocks' in .

Of all London saints perhaps [extra_illustrations.2.176.1]  or Dionysius, the Areopagite, is the least honoured; and yet St. Dionis was the St. Denis of France. St. Dionis is called Backchurch, as some think, from there having originally been a church to St. Gabriel in the centre the roadway, behind which stood St. Dionis; but this is doubtful. This church, mentioned as early as , was rebuilt in the reign of Henry VI., and again after the Great Fire under Wren's supervision. The Ionic columns, carved pulpit, and motley altar-piece need no description. Near the communion-table is an ugly granite monument to Sir Arthur Ingram, a Spanish merchant, who gave his name to Ingram Court in this street, and was a great benefactor to the church. In the vestry they preserve as interesting relics large syringes (such as they now use in Constantinople), the only machines formerly known for extinguishing fires. They are rather more than feet long, and were fastened by straps to the body of the firemen. The tower is feet high.

At the King's head Tavern, No. , , the Princess Elizabeth, when released from the Tower by her harsh sister Mary, is said to have dined, after attending divine service at the church of Allhallows Staining, in . The young lady, always a fair trencherwoman, exulting in freedom and fresh air, partook freely of pork and peas. This royal act of condescension was celebrated till quite recently by an annual dinner of the chief parishioners. In the coffeeroom they still show, with honest pride, the metal dish and cover said to have been occupied by the afore-mentioned peas and pork, and an engraved portrait of the young princess by Holbein. Another legend has it that the princess, on quitting Allhallows, gave the clerk a handsome fee, which he celebrated by an annual dinner given to his chief patrons.

The Church of [extra_illustrations.2.176.2]  was so called (says Stow) because pattens were usually made and sold in this neighbourhood, but more probably, we think, from the church being specially decorated (altar or roof) with such

patines of bright gold

as those to which Shakespeare, in the , compares the stars. The venerable shade of Stow will forgive us this trifling rebellion to his dictum. This church is mentioned as early as , was in Whittington's gift, and was rebuilt after the Great Fire. In , the rood, having been left in the churchyard to receive oblations, was destroyed by some too zealous Reformer. The altar-piece, is by Carlo Maratti. The great antiquary, Dr. Birch, rector of the parish nearly years, is buried here. Above the altar are some finely-carved flowers.

In , on the site of , stood the town residence of the Earls of Northumberland. were afterwards converted into bowling-alleys for all comers.

St. Catherine Coleman, close to where once stood, derived its name from a large garden belonging to Coleman (date uncertain). This church escaped the Great Fire, and was rebuilt in .

Pepys has the following interesting allusion to , in connection with the Plague.

June 10, 1665

,

he says,

to my great trouble, hear that the Plague is come into the city (though it hath these three or four weeks since its beginning been wholly out of the city); but where should it begin but in my good friend and neighbour's, Dr. Burnett, in Fenchurch Street; which, in both points, troubles me mightily.

June 11. I saw poor Dr. Burnett's door shut; but he hath, I hear, gained great good--will among his neighbours, for he discovered it himself first, and caused himself to be shut up of his own accord; which was very handsome.

Out of respect to , we may mention its small tributary, , a name corrupted from Belzettar, a forgotten builder or owner. Strype describes the place as consisting of poor and ordinary houses formerly inhabited by needy, beggarly people. The inhabitants were then brokers and chandlers, residing in very old and ruinous timber houses. The chief ornament of it was , which Strype describes as

a very handsome, open, and airy place, graced with good new-brick buildings very well inhabited.

Ironmongers' Hall in is a building with a history and traditions of its own. The iron that supplied London in the Middle Ages was chiefly worked in Sussex, Surrey, and Kent.

The earliest account, says Mr. Herbert, we have of the Ironmongers as a guild is in the year of Edward III., when on occasion of the various mysteries making their offerings to the king for carrying on his French wars, the Ironmongers sub-

p.177

[extra_illustrations.2.177.1] [extra_illustrations.2.177.2] 
scribed The same Company, in the of Edward III., sent of their members to the Common Council. Near this period, and for a long time afterwards, the Ironmongers' appear to have united the professions both of merchant and trader, for, whilst they had large warehouses and yards, whence they exported and sold bar-iron and iron rods, they had also shops, wherein they displayed abundance of manufactured articles, which they purchased from the workmen in town and country, and of which they afterwards became the general retailers. was of the spots on which the trade congregated. Many of the rich Ironmongers were buried in the church of the adjacent united parishes of St Olave Jewry and St. Martin, .

The Ironmongers were incorporated in the of Edward IV., their arms having been granted to them several years before. Their records are ancient; their court-book commences in , but they have documents and records of a still earlier date. Some of the entries are curious, and of these we select a few of the most interesting. In , they provide soldiers for the Queen's service; , pay towards building the ; , provide soldiers for the Queen's service, Ireland; , they lend the Queen ; , supply men as soldiers; , provide seamen; , provide men for the defence of the kingdom; , contribute to help send forth ships of war and a pinnace; , lend Government ; , pay , being their proportion of a fine exacted from the city for not apprehending the murderers of John Lamb (see Vol. I., page ); , pay for the service of Parliament ; , pay Parliament every week for months, and sell their plate to try to raise to help Parliament.

The ancient livery hood was crimson and puce. In choosing wardens it was usual at the election dinner to bring in garlands, preceded by minstrels, and try them on each person, till they arrived at the stewards-elect. Worthy Mr. Evelyn (Septumbeer , ) mentions this ceremony, and describes how the solemn procession came to the upper table and drank to the new stewards.

[extra_illustrations.2.177.3]  is the or building erected on the same site. The present hall was designed by T. Holden, in . It was then a handsome stone building, with a rustic base and Ionic pilasters, balustraded roof, and carved tympanum. The vestibule was divided by Tuscan columns, and the state room was adorned with Ionic ornaments, an orchestra and grand buffet. The master and wardens' chairs stood against the west wall, in front of the king's arms, while the blue semi-oval ceiling was stuccoed with heraldic bearings, satyrs' heads, cornucopias, palm-branches, flowers, and scrolls. The banqueting-hall has since been decorated in the Louis Quatorze taste, in papier-mache and imitative oak aided by oak carvings. The hall contains portraits of Mr. Thomas Betton (a Turkey merchant, who left. ), Sir Robert Geffery (giver of the Company's almshouses in the ), Sir James Cambell, and other benefactors, and a fine full-length of Lords Hood, by Gainsborough, given by that admiral to the Company, in , when his lordship was received into the Company without fee or previous nomination. The Ironmongers' arms are argent, on a chevron gules, swivels or between steel gads azure ; crest on a wreath, scaly lizards, erect, combatant proper (i.e., vert), motto,

God is our strength.

The lizards should properly be salamanders, but the Ironmongers insist on the lizards, and even named their Irish estate after them.

was so called from houses there belonging to the

Minchuns,

or nuns, of St. Helen's, . Of old time (says Stow) there dwelt in this lane Genoese traders called

galleymen,

because they brought their wines and other merchandise to Galley Wharf, in . They used amongst themselves small silver halfpence called, in London,

galley halfpence,

forbidden by Act of Parliament in the reigns of Henry IV. and Henry VI. These coins were broader than. English halfpence, but not so thick and strong.

is specially mentioned by Pepys, of the Great Fire :--

19th June, 1668

,

he says,

between

two

and

three

in the morning we were waked with the maids crying out,

Fire, fire, in Marke Lane!

So I rose and looked out, and it was dreadful, and strange apprehensions in me and us all of being presently burnt. So we all rose, and my care presently was to secure my gold and plate and papers, and could quickly have done it, but I went forth to see where it was; and the whole town was presently in the streets; and I found it in a new-built house that stood alone in Minchin Lane, over against the Clothworkers' Hall, which burned furiously; the house not yet quite finished; and the benefit of brick was well seen, for it burnt all inward, and fell down within itself; so no fear of doing more hurt.

The original Clothworkers' Hall, in , was purchased by the Fullers, in the year

p.178

[extra_illustrations.2.178.1] [extra_illustrations.2.178.2] 
(Henry VI.), ever to remain in their fellowship. The spot is remarkable as the boundary of the Great Fire of London, which partly destroyed the hall. Pepys speaks of the building as being

in

one

body of flame for

three

days and nights, the cellars being full of oil.

The Clothworkers, says Herbert, seem to have sprung, like the Fullers, from the very ancient guild of Weavers. The trade had formerly several subdivisions, of which the Fullers, the Burrellers, and the Testers were the chief. The Burrellers were inspectors and measurers of cloth. In the reign of Edward IV. the Shearmen were separated from the Drapers and Tailors, and were incorporated. Henry VII. granted them additional privileges, and Henry VIII. united them with the Fullers, and gave the joint fraternity the name of Clothworkers. There were endless disputes between the Clothworkers and Dyers for precedence, till at last the Clothworkers settled down as and last of the great companies, and the Dyers took rank as of the minor ones. Shearmen, the old title of the Clothworkers, had no reference to removing the wool from the sheep, but applied to the manner of clipping the nap in the process of cloth manufacture. The Clothworkers are especially mentioned in a statute concerning the woollen manufacture, in the reign of Edward VI., which contained clauses requiring the clothiers' seal on cloth, and forbidding over-stretching, and adding chalk, or flour, or starch, and the use of iron cards. Queen Elizabeth confirmed the right of the Clothworkers, and Charles I. (who, as well as his father, was a member of the fraternity) confirmed their charter. There were degrees in the Company-apprentices, freemen (also called yeomen and bachelors), householders, the fellowship, and wardens. The government consisted of a court of assistants, including only those who had been masters and wardens.

Pepys himself was a member of this Company, and left it a quaint and valuable old cup, which still shines out among the meaner plate, on the occasion of grand dinners,

when beards wag all.

The hall, after the Great Fire, seems to have been restored with green wood, which soon fell into decay. It must have been a fine building, for the banqueting-hall was a lofty wainscoted room, adorned with a great oak screen, with figures of James I. and Charles I., and stained-glass windows. These windows contained, among other devices, the arms of Pepys and Sir John Robinson. The latter worthy was Lieutenant of the Tower, President of the Artillery Company, and Lord Mayor in , when he entertained, in Clothworkers' Hall, Charles II. and his Queen, the Queen-Dowager, and the Duke and Duchess of York. Mr. Samuel Angell. was the architect of [extra_illustrations.2.179.1] , which occupies the old position in . It was completed in and is now, with its fine oak carving and splendid mirrors, a good specimen of a Company's Hall--the ceiling, in white and gold, being ornamented in a rather unusual, but most tasteful manner, with life-size figures in relief. At end of the hall stand the statues of James I. and Charles I., very dazzling in their covering of pure gilding. The ground on which the hall is built has been enlarged by the addition of a very large piece of land purchased by the Company quite recently. This is the site of the old church and graveyard of [extra_illustrations.2.179.2]  The body of the church itself has been pulled down, and its place is occupied by houses built and let on lease to tenants. The churchyard is to remain as an open space, and will still admit air and light to the hall. But the old tower still remains; the Company, by arrangement with the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, being bound not only not to demolish it, but to keep it in repair. Anything more absurd than this restriction cannot be imagined. The crumbling old tower is not by any means ornamental, and it can serve no purpose on earth except that of obstructing and incommoding the property of the Company. The real estates held by this Company are very large, and comprise a great deal of valuable house property in London. The Irish estates were let as far back as for per annum, and a fine of . They have, however, been sold since the last rebuilding of the hall. The Company have schools at Sutton Valence, in Kent, and in the Isle of Man, and almshouses at Sutton Valence, in , and other places. The charities were estimated in at about per annum, but they are now vastly increased. This Company has numbered many royal personages among its members, and among them the Prince of Wales and the Duke of Cambridge. Prince Albert was also a member, and the Company have a large picture of his late Royal Highness, with a sister painting of Her Majesty, executed by Herrick in . In proof of the honour in which the Clothworkers were held centuries ago, we may quote the words of the panegyrist, Elkanah Settle:--

The grandeur of England is to be attributed to its golden fleece (which is the crest of this Company), the wealth of the loom making England a

second

Peru, and the back of the sheep, and not the entrails of the earth, being its chief mine of riches. The silkworm is no spinster of ours, and our wheel

and web are wholly the Clothworkers'. Thus, as trade is the soul of the kingdom, so the greatest branch of it lies in the Clothworkers' hands; and though our naval commerce brings us in both the

or

and the

argent

, and indeed the whole wealth of the world, yet, when thoroughly examined, it will be found 'tis your cloth sends out to fetch them. And thus, whilst the Imperial Britania is so formidable to her foes and so potent to her friends, to the Clothworkers' honour it may justly be said,

'Tis your shuttle nerves her arm, and your woof that enrobes her glory.

Howes relates that

James I., being in the open Hall, inquired who was master of the Company; and the Lord Mayor answering,

Sir William Stone,

to whom the king said,

Wilt thou make me free of the Clothworkers?

Yea,

quoth the master,

and think myself a happy man that I live to see this day.

Then the king said,

Stone, give me thy hand; and now I am a Clothworker.

The Clothworkers' arms, granted in the reign of Henry VIII., are sable, a chevron ermine between habricks, in chief argent, and a thistle in base, or; crest, a ram passant, or; supporters, griffins, or; pellette. Motto--

My trust is in God alone.

At the north-east corner of , says Stow, was the manor of a knight of Richard II., called by the pretty name of Blanch Appleton, afterwards corrupted into Blind . In the reign of Edward IV. basket-makers and wiredrawers were allowed to practise their trade in Blanch Appleton. was originally called Mart Lane, from some fair of uncertain date there established.

The Church of Allhallows standing in , recently pulled down by the Clothworkers' Company to enlarge their hall, was given, in , by the Bishop of London to the Abbey and Convent of our Lady of Grace, near the . The right of presentation eventually came into the possession of the Grocers' Company. According to Stow, the church was called Stane or Stayning; to distinguish it at an early period when many London churches were erected of timber. The churchwardens' books of Allhallows are perfect from as far back as , and abound with some interesting facts as to prices and manners and customs. In the great beam light of the church is mentioned as weighing more than , and cost the pound. In there is a shilling paid to the ringers for expressing joy at the execution of Mary Queen of Scots. In a shilling is paid for painting red crosses on the doors of houses infected with the plague. In the Great Plague of , persons died in the parish, and that year is paid for street fires to purify the air. In , the ringers are paid for expressing joy at King James's return from Faversham, and days after for more joy at the Prince of Orange's arrival, for the purpose of dethroning James! The church escaped the Great Fire, but, as if tired of standing, fell down suddenly in , nearly burying a sexton who was digging a grave. The tower contains bells, the greater number of which are dated -. of them, however, are much older. Malcolm says the date upon is .

The in was projected and opened in . [extra_illustrations.2.179.3]  was rebuilt by Mr. G. Smith in , and opened the next year. It is now again proposed to rebuild it. On building the a fine Roman pavement was discovered. The old Exchange, still standing in , has an open colonnade with modern Doric pillars. The factors have stands in the interior court, which has been compared to the atrium, or place of audience, of a Pompeian house. The New is in the Grecian and Doric style. The interior is lighted by a lantern with vertical lights in the centre space within the columns, and the compartments on each side have skylights in their ceilings. The stands of the corn-factors, to the number of and upwards, are along the sides of the building. On them are placed small bags and wooden bowls, with samples of different kinds of grain, and behind is a desk for the factor or his clerk, with something of the convenience of a counting-house. Lightermen and granarykeepers have stands as well as corn-merchants, factors, and millers. The seed-market is held in another part of the building. In the north wing is a tavern and coffee-room, and an opening in the south side of the wing communicates with the old .

As some London corn merchants were said, as far back as years ago, to turn over in a year nearly a million and a half of money, it may be supposed that is a strictly busy place, and that the factors there do not scoop up handfuls of corn or toss wheat up in the air for mere amusement. In months alone in there arrived in London vessels from foreign ports, laden with foreign corn, a fact which proves the ceaseless cry for bread of hungry England, unable to fully supply its own wants, and dependent on the energy of the dealers.

In the Middle Ages, London, a mere bantling then, with no great appetite, depended in simple faith for corn on Kent and Essex alone. In Stow's

p.180

time Norfolk, Suffolk, Essex, Kent, and Sussex were the chief competitors in the London corn trade. Speculators in corn were looked upon in old times with suspicion, and even detestation; while regraters, or holders back of corn, were formerly branded as ruthless enemies of the human race. In corn dealers were prohibited having more than quarters in their possession at time, and justices could examine a farmer's barns and sell the superfluous stock. Heavy penalties were inflicted years afterwards on persons who bought corn to sell again. Farmers buying corn for seed were required to sell an equal quantity of store corn; while corn dealers were required to take out an annual licence, and not to engross or forestall, or buy out of open market, except under an express permission.

Dearths frequently occurring in the Middle Ages, the livery companies were required to keep stores of corn, as we have already mentioned in previous chapters. Sir Stephen Brown is the Lord Mayor praised by Stow for sending to Dantzic for cheap corn in time of scarcity, and Sir

Simon Eyre, another Lord Mayor, established a public granary, such as Joseph did in Egypt, at Leadenhall. In a mayor found the city granaries nearly empty, and had to lay in a provision of wheat. In aldermen were appointed weekly in rotation to see that the markets were well supplied. When prices rose the companies were compelled to send in for sale certain specified quantities of corn, and then to provide a fresh stock. In , they were called on, at different periods, to purchase quarters. The Bridgemaster had the charge of buying the corn, which was at period entirely stored in the Bridge House. The money to purchase the grain for the city granaries was raised by loans and contributions from the mayor and aldermen, the city companies, and sometimes from the citizens. The companies often grumbled, clamoured for a return of their money, and were sometimes paid in store corn, which they by no means wanted. In the companies built their own granaries, and were allowed to keep their supply there. The difficulty with the companies grew worse and worse,

p.181

[extra_illustrations.2.181.1] 
and the refusals to buy corn became more frequent, till at last the Great Fire, that fierce reformer of many abuses, swept away the Bridge House and all the other granaries, and thus at last the custom of laying up corn and interfering with the natural balance of trade ceased altogether.

The German Steel Yard merchants were at period the sole importers of foreign corn, and in times of scarcity were not allowed to sell either to bakers or brewers without the city's licence.

In special year bakers were forbidden to buy any meal, except at the city's store, the Bridge House, where the quantity each might take, and the price, were fixed by the Lord Mayor. Such were the fetters in which trade had to move in the time of Queen Elizabeth, when so many feudal restrictions were still in existence. As an instance of the power of the city in the reign of her successor, it has been mentioned that in the Court tried to borrow or quarters of wheat, and the city would only lend .

The ancient corn-ports of London were, as we have shown, and . The chief corn-warehouse was at . There was a principal meter there, and master porters,

each of whom had men under him. The chief corn-markets of London were and Michael-le-Quern, at the west end of . was the mediaeval bakers' market. The Fellowship of Bakers held hall-motes during the year, to punish offences of their craft. In a baker, for selling loaves smaller than the assize, was drawn on a hurdle through London streets with a fool's cap on his head, while round his neck dangled his meagre loaves.

The old assize of bread compelled bakers to regulate the size of thier loaves by the price of corn. The assize was regulated in Queen Anne's reign, and not finally abolished till . The Bakers' Company used formerly to present newbaked loaves to the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, to be fairly weighed. They were made out of wheaten corn, purchased by

sworn and discreet men

at the markets of Grasschurch, St. Botolph, Bishopsgate, and . London bakers were formerly, except at Christmas, forbidden to sell household loaves at a higher price than twopence, or to sell by retail spice-cakes, buns, or biscuits, except for funerals, and at the festivals of Christmas and Easter.

p.182

 

The London corn-mills were latterly chiefly at . Besides Leadenhall and the Bridge House there were granaries at time at and Christchurch. At the beginning of the last century the metropolitan corn-market was held at Bear Quay, in . was at the same period the great market for flour and meal, and the

White Horse

Inn mealmarket, situated near Bridge, was much frequented.

The system of factorage is only about years old. Tradition has it that it began with a number of Essex farmers, who used to leave samples of corn with the landlord of an inn at Whitechapel where they put up, and to whom they paid commission, to save the trouble of attending the market every week. The ancestors of of the oldest commission-houses began with a stand on .

Such great events from little causes spring.

Kentish, Essex, and Suffolk corn arrives in sacks; foreign and Irish corn, and English oats and barley in loose bulk. The Kentish hoys sometimes bring joint-stock cargoes. The operation of unloading and measuring was, under the old system, very skilfully managed. fellowship porters all but filled the bushel with wooden shovels, the meter completed the bushel, and of the men passed the strike over the surface. The sack was then filled and shot into the lighter. At purchase the grain was again measured.

By a recent Act of Parliament the city's rights of measuring corn, worth as much as a year, were done away with. Corn is now sold by weight, the only charge being -sixteenths of a penny per hundredweight, to pay for the ex-sworn meters, as compensation to the city, this charge to continue for years.

The London terms of the factors are month's open credit, and the buyer has to lodge any objection as to quality, bulk, &c., at the factor's stand before o'clock on the following market day, or else has to abide by his bargain. The centre of the market is devoted, at the entrance end, to shipbrokers of all classes, and also to masters of small craft, and lightermen; in the middle assemble the great Greek merchants, who almost monopolise the importation of corn from every part of the world; they here give directions to factors who are selling their arrived cargoes, and to agents who are negotiating with country merchants and factors from all parts of the kingdom, either personally or by telegraph, for the sale of cargoes shipping at foreign ports, or on passage, or arrived on the coast at Plymouth or Queenstown. There are sometimes as many as cargoes at ports of call, the size of each being from to quarters up to quarters, and sometimes as much as quarters, waiting for a destination, which is notified to them by telegraph as soon as a contract is made. Not only is the United Kingdom supplied in this way, but also any part of the Continent where corn may be required.

The upper part of the market is the place of assembling for oil seed-crushers, and here the Greeks again are the great importers of all kinds of oil-seeds.

A strict and punctual system governs all the proceedings of the establishment. The market opens at o'clock by ring of bell, and factors never name a price for goods till then. At o'clock a notice bell is rung, and at half-past the final bell, when the doors of the market are closed until , when the sweepers begin to clear up the spilt samples, which bring in a good revenue to the company.

The next market adjoining, and in communication with the old Exchange, is the

London

Corn Exchange

,

which is commonly called the New Corn Market, to distinguish it from the other. The exterior is much more imposing than the old market, which is very simple. Originally some dealers clubbed together and acquired some property opposite the old Exchange, and in opposition to it, and set up a few small stands, but they subsequently formed a company, and acquired the present site. This may be called the retail market, as the standholders are principally dealers, who sell corn lying in their own river-side warehouses to shopkeepers, livery-stables, &c., and they buy, generally from factors on the old market, the grain ex-ship. Some of these dealers are also factors in the old market. Here also the malt-factors and maltsters attend, as the Greeks do in the other market; and also a great many country dealers, who sell home-grown barley. The stands are arranged round the interior, and smaller stands fill up the centre opening.

A staircase at the entrance of the old Exchange, and the property of the same company, leads to

Jack's Coffee House,

the assembly for London and country millers, who examine their purchases, &c., after the market is over. The room is crammed between and o'clock. At the rear of the old Exchange is a handsome building, which was erected in ; the upper storeys are divided into offices, and the ground-floor forms a large subscription-room.

p.183

 

Granaries are numerous about and , but they abound on both sides of the river, from Greenwich to . The foreign corn is stored in bonded granaries near the . In the times of the high duties corn-merchants have been known to throw quarters of wheat into the river at time rather than pay the high tax, or keep it subject to long granary rent.

The supply of foreign corn to this country has undergone many changes from time to time; formerly our supplies were chiefly from the Baltic and South Russian ports, but now the United States is the chief contributor, and we also get wheat from Australia, California, the Cape, and New Zealand.

The cultivation of grain has undergone a marvellous change since , the English farmer preferring cattle-rearing to corn-growing: thus in the supply of foreign corn to the port of London, as measured by the sworn meters, was quarters, and of English quarters; whereas, in the year the quantities were, foreign, quarters; English, quarters. The total of foreign grain and flour imported into London during was cwts., according to Returns.

No. , , opposite the , is a large and very ancient house, with fine oak carving over the gateway, and inside. Horses used to be lodged inside the gateway, and there are still the wooden pegs used for hanging up saddles and harness. This house must have been the residence of a great city grandee.

 
 
Footnotes:

[extra_illustrations.2.170.4] Cornhill

[extra_illustrations.2.171.1] Union Assurance Office, Cornhill

[extra_illustrations.2.171.2] the present building

[extra_illustrations.2.171.3] Mr. G. G. Scott

[extra_illustrations.2.171.4] St. Peter's, Cornhill

[extra_illustrations.2.172.1] European Magazine, 32 Cornhill

[extra_illustrations.2.172.2] Change Alley

[extra_illustrations.2.173.1] Garraway's,

[extra_illustrations.2.173.2] Dean Swift

[extra_illustrations.2.173.3] Dr. Radcliffe

[extra_illustrations.2.176.1] St. Dionis

[extra_illustrations.2.176.2] St. Margaret Pattens

[extra_illustrations.2.177.1] Arms of Ironmongers

[extra_illustrations.2.177.2] Conversazione and Art Exp. in Ironmongers' Hall

[extra_illustrations.2.177.3] The present Ironmongers' Hall

[extra_illustrations.2.178.1] Clothworkers' Hall, Old Detail

[extra_illustrations.2.178.2] New Clothworkers' Hall, Interior

[extra_illustrations.2.179.1] the new hall

[extra_illustrations.2.179.2] Allhallows Staining

[extra_illustrations.2.179.3] A new Exchange

[extra_illustrations.2.181.1] St. Michael's, Queenhithe

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 Title Page
 Chapter I: Fishmonger's Hall and Fish Street Hill
 Chapter II: London Bridge
 Chapter III: Upper Thames Street
 Chapter IV: Upper Thames Street
 Chapter V: Lower Thames Street
 Chapter VI: The Tower
 Chapter VII: The Tower (continued)
 Chapter VIII: Old Jewel House
 Chapter IX: The Tower, Visitors to the Tower
 Chapter X: The Neighbourhood of the Tower
 Chapter XI: Neighbourhood of the Tower, The Mint
 Chapter XII: Neighbourhood Of The Tower
 Chapter XIII: St. Katherine's Docks
 Chapter XIV: The Tower Subway and London Docks
 Chapter XV: The Thames Tunnel
 Chapter XVI: Stepney
 Chapter XVII: Whitechapel
 Chapter XVIII: Bethnal Green
 Chapter XIX: Spitalfields
 Chapter XX: Bishopsgate
 Chapter XXI: Bishopsgate
 Chapter XXII: Cornhill
 Chapter XXIII: Leadenhall Street
 Chapter XXIV: Leadenhall Street
 Chapter XXV: Shoreditch
 Chapter XXVI: Moorfields
 Chapter XXVII: Aldersgate Street
 Chapter XXVIII: Aldersgate Street
 Chapter XXIX: Cripplegate
 Chapter XXX: Aldgate
 Chapter XXXI: Islington
 Chapter XXXII: Islington
 Chapter XXXIII: Canonbury
 Chapter XXXIV: Highbury-Upper Holloway-King's Cross
 Chapter XXXV: Pentonville
 Chapter XXXVI: Sadler's Wells
 Chapter XXXVII: Bagnigge Wells
 Chapter XXXIII: Coldbath Fields and Spa Fields
 Chapter XXXIX: Hockley-In-The-Hole
 Chapter XL: Clerkenwell
 Chapter XLI: Clerkenwell-(continued)
 Chapter XLII: Smithfield
 Chapter XLIII: Smithfield and Bartholomew Fair
 Chapter XLIV: The Churches of Bartholomeu-The-Great and Bartholomew-The-Less
 Chapter XLV: St. Bartholomew's Hospital
 Chapter XLVI: Christ's Hospital
 Chapter XLVII: The Charterhouse
 Chapter XLVIII: The Charterhouse--(continued)
 Chapter XLIX: The Fleet Prison
 Chapter L: The Fleet River and Fleet Ditch
 Chapter LI: Newgate Street
 Chapter LII: Newgate
 Chapter LII: Newgate (continued)
 Chapter LIV: The Old Bailey
 Chapter LV: St. Sepulchre's and its Neighbourhood
 Chapter LVI: The Metropolitan Meat-Market
 Chapter LVII: Farringdon Street, Holborn Viaduct, and St. Andrew's Church
 Chapter LVIII: Ely Place
 Chapter LIX: Holborn, to Chancery Lane
 Chapter LX: The Northern Tributaries of Holborn
 Chapter LXI: The Holborn Inns of Court and Chancery
 Chapter LXII: The Holborn Inns of Court and Chancery (continued)