Bishopsgate, according to Stow, was probably built by good Bishop Erkenwald, son of King Offa, and repaired by Bishop William, the Norman, in the reign of the Conqueror. Henry III. confirmed to merchants of the Hanse certain privileges by which they were bound to keep Bishopsgate in repair, and in the reign of Edward IV. we find them rebuilding it. The gate was adorned with the effigies of bishops, probably Bishop Erkenwald and Bishop William, and with effigies supposed to have represented King Alfred and Alred, Earl of Mercia, to whom Alfred entrusted the care of the gate. It was rebuilt several times. [extra_illustrations.2.152.2]  of it is shown on page . The rooms over the gate were, in Strype's time, allotted to of the Lord Mayor's carvers. Pennant notices an old inn, the [extra_illustrations.2.152.3]  not far from this gate, which was standing until a few years back. [extra_illustrations.2.153.1] , a great city merchant of the reign of James I., lived still exists in , with some traces of its ancient splendour. This Sir Paul was ambassador for James I. to the Grand Legion, and helped to extend English commerce in Turkey. He brought back with him a diamond valued at , which James wished to buy on credit, but prudent Sir Paul declined this unsatisfactory mode of purchase, and used to lend it to the monarch on gala days. Charles I. afterwards purchased the

a little comfortable.

a chevron argent, between

three

lyon's heads, erased ermine crowned or,

The Sir Paul Pindar's head.

The front towards the street,

with its gable bay windows, and matchless panelwork, together with a subsequent addition of brick on its northern side, is

one

of the best specimens of the period now extant. The edifice was commenced in

one

of the closing years of the reign of Elizabeth, on the return from his residence in Italy of its great and good master. It was originally very spacious, and extended for a considerable distance, both to the south side and to the rear of the present dwelling. The adjoining tenements in Half-moon Street, situated immediately at the back of the building, which faces

Bishopsgate Street

, though manifesting no external signs of interest, are rich beyond expression in internal ornament. The primary arrangement, indeed, of the mansion is entirely destroyed. Very little of the original internal woodwork remains, and that of the plainest character. But, in several of the rooms on the

first

floors of the houses just referred to, there still exist some of the most glorious ceilings which our country can furnish. They are generally mutilated, in several instances the half alone remaining, as the rooms have been divided into

two

or more portions, to suit the needs of later generations. These ceilings are of plaster, and abound in the richest and finest devices. Wreaths of flowers, panels, shields, pateras, bands, roses, ribands, and other forms of ornamentation, are charmingly mingled, and unite in producing the best and happiest effect.

One

of them, which is all but perfect, consists of a large device in the centre, representing the sacrifice of Isaac, from which a most exquisite design radiates to the very extremities of the room. In general, however, the work consists of various figures placed within multangular compartments of different sizes, that in the centre of the room usually the largest. The projecting ribs, which in their turn enclose the compartments, are themselves furnished with plentiful ornamentation, consisting of bands of oak-leaves and other vegetable forms; and, in several instances, have fine pendants at the points of intersection. The cornices consist of a rich series of highly-ornamented mouldings. Every part, however, is in strict keeping, and none of the details surfeit the taste or weary the eye.

At a little distance, in Half-moon Alley, stood an old structure, now pulled down, ornamented with figures, which is traditionally reported to have been the keeper's lodge in the park attached to Sir Paul's residence; and mulberry-trees, and other park-like vestiges in this neighbourhood, are still within memory.

[extra_illustrations.2.153.3] , occupies the site of Roman buildings. The ground in the neighbourhood is intersected with chalk foundations, and in a Roman tessellated pavement (red, white, and grey) was discovered under a house at the south-west angle of . A similar pavement was found in on the north side of Little St. Helen's gateway. There is mention of a church priory here, dedicated to the mother of Constantine, as early as , when it was granted to the canons of by Ranulph and Robert his son. About a [extra_illustrations.2.153.4]  was founded here by William Fitzwillam, a goldsmith, and dedicated to the Holy Cross and St. Helen. The priory included a hall, hospital, dormitories, cloisters, and offices. The Nuns' Hall, at the north of the present church, was purchased by the Leathersellers' Company, who used it as a common hall till , when it was pulled down to make room for .

A crypt extended from the north side of the church under Leathersellers' Hall, and in the wall [extra_illustrations.2.153.5] [extra_illustrations.2.153.6] [extra_illustrations.2.153.7] [extra_illustrations.2.153.8] 

nuns' gratings.

However, architects praise this church as picturesque, with its heavy equal aisles, and its pointed arches. There is a transept at the east end, and beyond it a small chapel, dedicated to the Holy Ghost. Against the north wall is a range of seats formerly occupied by the nuns. The church is a composite of various periods. St. Helen's, says Mr. Godwin, contains perhaps more monuments (especially altartombs) than any other parish church in the metropolis, and these give an especial air of antiquity and solemnity to the building. Here is the ugly tomb containing the embalmed body of Francis Bancroft. He caused the tomb to be built for himself in . He is said to have made a fortune of nearly by greedy exactions, the whole of which he left to the almshouses and the Drapers' Company. In a small southern transept is a most singular table monument in memory of [extra_illustrations.2.154.1] , Privy Counsellor to James I., Chancellor of the Exchequer, and Master of the Rolls, who died about . The epitaph, written by himself, engraved on a large deed, sealed and folded (the string to the seal represented as breaking), purports to be an engagement on the part of the deceased to pay the debt of Nature whenever God shall please and require it. The tomb, the work of Nicholas Stone, cost .

On the south side of the chancel, on a stone [extra_illustrations.2.154.2]  altar-tomb, are recumbent figures of a knight in armour, and a lady. The knight is Sir John Crosby, who died in the year , the builder of [extra_illustrations.2.154.3]  who contributed largely to the church. Behind this is a large columned and canopied monument in memory of Sir William Pickering, famous for worth in learning, arts, and warfare. His effigy in armour reclines on a piece of sculptured matting, folded at end to represent a pillow. Strype says he died in . But the greatest of all the monuments at St. Helen's is that of Sir Thomas Gresham, a large sculptured altar-tomb covered with a marble slab. Another curious monument near Gresham's is that of Matthew Bond, captain of the London Trained Bands in the time of the Armada. He is represented sitting within a tent, with sentries standing outside, and an attendant bringing up a horse. There were also buried here Sir John Lawrence, the good Lord Mayor who behaved so nobly in the Plague year, and Sir John Spencer, the rich Lord Mayor of of Elizabeth's reign, whose daughter ran away with Lord Compton, escaping from her father's house in a baker's basket.

The charity-box in the church vestibule is supported by a curious carved figure of a mendicant. Mr. Godwin, writing in , laments the ill-proportioned turret of St. Helen's, and the carvings of the mongrel Italian style.

The recent restorations and improvements have greatly increased the attractions of St. Helen's, while the magnificent stained-glass windows, that have been added to the sacred edifice, are modern works eminently worthy of the objects of ancient art, and the fine sculptures to be found within the walls. Of these windows is in the memory of Sir Thomas Gresham, and has been contributed by the Gresham Committee, while others have been erected at the expense of the family of Mr. McDougall. The magnificent window, in memory of the late Alderman Sir William Copeland, is a most striking work, but is not inferior in interest to the restoration, which was made at the expense of

Not a stone now remains,

to tell of the old priory of St. Helen's and its glories. A view of the place, as it existed at the close of the last century, which is happily furnished by Wilkinson in his

Londina,

represents the ruins of edifices whose main portions and features are of the Early English period, and which were probably coeval with the foundation of the priory. These calls the

Remains of the Fratry.

He had the advantage of a personal examination of these beautiful memorials.

The door,

he says,

leading from the cloister to the Fratry, which the writer of this well remembers to have seen at the late demolition of it, was particularly elegant; the mouldings of the upper part being filled with roses of stone painted scarlet and gilt; the windows of the Fratry itself, also, which were nearly lancet-shaped, were extremely beautiful.

He also gives

two

views of the beautiful

crypt,

and

one

of the hall above it; the former of which is in the Early English style, while the latter has ornamental additions of post-Dissolution times. It appears by his plan that there were at least

two

crypts,

one

under the hall and another to the south; under what would be called the withdrawingroom.

Perhaps of the most interesting old city mansions in London is [extra_illustrations.2.155.2]  now turned into a restaurant. It is of the finest examples of Gothic domestic architecture of the Perpendicular period, and is replete with historical associations. It was built about by Sir John Crosby, grocer and woolstapler, on ground leased from Dame Alice Ashfield, Prioress of the Convent of St. Helen's. For the ground, which had a frontage of feet in the

Kinge's Strete,

Bisshoppesgate Strete,

very large and beautiful, and the highest at that time in London.

In Crosby Hall became a palace, for the widow of Sir John parted with the new city mansion to that dark and wily intriguer, Richard, Duke of Gloucester.

There,

he lodged himself and little by little all folks drew unto him, so that the Protector's court was crowded and King Henry's left desolate.

Shakespeare, who was a resident in St. Helen's in (a fact proved by the parish assessments), has thrice by name referred, in his to this old city mansion, as if he found pleasure in immortalising a place familiar to himself. It was in the Council Chamber in Crosby Hall that the mayor, Sir Thomas Billesden, and a deputation of citizens, offered Richard the crown.

It was at the same place that Richard persuaded Anne to await his return from the funeral of the murdered King Henry:--

Gloucester.And if thy poor devoted servant may But beg one favour at thy gracious hand, Thou dost confirm his happiness for ever. Anne.What is it? Gloucester.That it would please thee leave these sad designs To him that hath more cause to be a mourner, And presently repair to Crosby House. Richard II., Act i., Scene 2.

Gloucester.Are you now going to dispatch this deed? 1st Murderer.We are, my lord; and come to have the warrant, That we may be admitted where he is. Gloucester.Well thought upon; I have it here about me [Gives the warrant.] When you have done, repair to Crosby Place. Richard III., Act i., Scene 3.

Gloucester.Shall we hear from you, Catesby, ere we sleep? Catesby.You shall, my lord. Gloucester.At Crosby House there shall you find us both. Richard III., Act iii., Scene I.

On the , Richard left Crosby Hall for his palace at .

In Sir Bartholomew Reed spent his brilliant mayoralty at this house at Crosby Place, and here he entertained the Princess Katherine of Arragon days before her marriage with Prince Arthur, and not long after the ambassadors of the Emperor Maximilian when they came to condole with Henry VII. on the death of the prince. Sir John Rest, Lord Mayor in , was the next distinguished tenant, at whose show there appeared the grand display of

four

giants,

one

unicorn,

one

dromedary,

one

camel,

one

ass,

one

dragon,

six

hobby-horses, and

sixteen

naked boys.

Then came a distinguished tenant, indeed, a man fit to stock it with wisdom for ever, and to purge it of the old stains of Richard's crimes. Between and , says the Rev. Thomas Hugo, Crosby Hall was inhabited by the great Sir Thomas More, Under Treasurer, and afterwards Lord High Chancellor of England. Here philosophy and piety met in quiet converse, and Erasmus compares More's house to the Academy of Plato, or rather to a

school and an exercise of the Christian religion;

their leisure to liberal studies and profitable reading, although piety was their

first

care. No wrangling, no idle word, was heard in it; every

one

did his duty with alacrity, and not without a temperate cheerfulness.

dear friend

In Alderman Bond purchased the house for , and repaired and enlarged it, building, it is said, a turret on the roof. The inscription

From the sons of Alderman Bond, Crosby Hall was purchased, in , by Sir John Spencer, for . This rich citizen kept his mayoralty here in ; and during his year of office a masque was performed by the gentlemen students of and the Temple, in the august presence of Queen Elizabeth. Spencer built a large warehouse close to the hall. It was during this reign that Crosby House was for a time tenanted by the Dowager [extra_illustrations.2.157.1] ,

Sydney's sister, Pembroke's mother

On the death of Sir John, in , the house descended to his son-in-law, Lord Compton, afterwards Earl of Northampton, but whether he resided there is uncertain. The earl's son Spencer was killed, fighting for King Charles, in . The

malignants,

In the great hall of the now neglected house was turned into a Presbyterian chapel. years later the dwelling-houses which adjoined the hall, and occupied the present site of , were burnt down, but the hall remained uninjured. While used as a chapel (till ), different ministers of eminence occupied the pulpit, the being Thomas Watson, previously rector of , , and the author of the tract,

Heaven taken by Storm,

tapestry, a good chariot, and a black girl of about

fifteen

.

It is conjectured that this fine old house was originally composed of quadrangles, separated by the Great Hall, a noble room feet high. The oriel of the hall is of the finest specimens remaining; the timber roof is of the most glorious which England possesses. The Throneroom and Council-room have suffered much. A fine oriel in of these has been removed to Buckinghamshire, and both ceilings have been carried off. No original entrance to the hall now remains, except a flat arched doorway communicating with the Council-chamber. The main entrance, Mr. Hugo thinks, was no doubt under the minstrel's gallery, at the south end. In the centre of the oriel ceiling is still to be seen, in high relief, the crest of Sir John Crosby--a ram trippant, argent, armed and hoofed, or.

[extra_illustrations.2.152.2] The latest form

[extra_illustrations.2.152.3] White Hart,

[extra_illustrations.2.153.1] The old house where Sir Paul Pindar

[extra_illustrations.2.153.2] Ancient Northeast View of Bishopsgate Street

[extra_illustrations.2.153.3] St. Helen's, Bishopsgate

[extra_illustrations.2.153.4] priory of Benedictine nuns

[extra_illustrations.2.153.5] Ancient Houses, Bishopsgate, #1

[extra_illustrations.2.153.6] Ancient Houses, Bishopsgate, #2

[extra_illustrations.2.153.7] Ancient Houses, Bishopsgate, #3

[extra_illustrations.2.153.8] Ancient Houses, Bishopsgate, #4

[extra_illustrations.2.154.1] Sir. Julius Caesar

[extra_illustrations.2.154.2] Bishopsgate.

[extra_illustrations.2.154.3] Crosby Hall

[extra_illustrations.2.155.1] Ruins of St. Helen's Priory

[extra_illustrations.2.155.2] Crosby Hall

[extra_illustrations.2.155.3] Crosby Hall with Street Plan

[extra_illustrations.2.155.4] Crosby Hall-Interior

[extra_illustrations.2.155.5] Bits of Architecture, Crosby Hall

[extra_illustrations.2.157.1] Countess of Pembroke