Old and New London, A Narrative of its History, its People and its Places. Illustrated with Numerous Engravings from the Most Authentic Sources. vol 2

Thornbury, Walter

1872-78

Chapter XXIV: Leadenhall Street (continued).

Chapter XXIV: Leadenhall Street (continued).

 

The original Leadenhall Market was a mansion which belonged to Sir Hugh Neville, in , and was converted into a granary, and probably a market for the city, by Sir Simon Eyre, a draper, and Lord Mayor of London in . It appears to have been a large building roofed with lead, and at that time thought, we presume, grand and remarkable.

There was a large chapel on the east side of old Leadenhall Market, dedicated to the Holy Trinity, by Sir Simon Eyre. To this chapel were attached, for daily service of the market people, master, secular priests, clerks, choristers, and schoolmasters, for whose support Eyre left . In the reign of Edward IV. a fraternity of priests was established in this chapel. During a scarcity in (Henry VIII.) a great store of corn was laid up in the Leadenhall granary, and the mayor used to attend the market at a.m. In the year it was proposed to make Leadenhall a merchants' Bourse, but the plan dropped through. At Henry VIII.'s death, in , the Bishop of Winchester, the king's almoner, gave alms publicly to the poor at Leadenhall for consecutive days. In Strype's time [extra_illustrations.2.188.1] ) was a market for meat and fish, a market for raw hides, a wool market, and an herb market.

The use of Leadenhall, in my youth,

says Strype,

was thus :--In a part of the north quadrant, on the east side of the north gate, were the common beams for weighing of wool and other wares, as

Old Houses-Leadenhall Street

had been accustomed; on the west side the gate was the scales to weigh meal; the other

three

sides were reserved (for the most part) to the making and resting of the pageants shewed at Midsummer in, the watch. The remnant of the sides and quadrants were employed for the stowage of woolsacks, but not closed up; the lofts above were partly used by the painters in working for the decking of pageants and other devices, for beautifying of the watch and watchmen. The residue of the lofts were letten out to merchants, the woolwinders and packers therein to wind and pack their wools.

[extra_illustrations.2.189.2] , says Pennant,

is the wonder of foreigners, who do not duly consider the carnivorous nation to which it belongs.

When Don Pedro de Ronquillo, the Spanish ambassador, visited Leadenhall, he told Charles II. with admiration that he believed there was more meat sold in that market than in all the kingdom of Spain in a whole year. In Leadenhall Market was partly rebuilt, and in the leather-market was restored, the chapel and other old buildings being removed.

The engraving on page shows an old house formerly standing in . The door at the side appears to have been the entrance to an old Jewish synagogue.

[extra_illustrations.2.189.3]  is the memorable building where Archbishop Laud performed some of those dangerous ceremonials that ultimately contributed to bring him to the scaffold. Between the years and this church was built as a chapel for the parish of St. Catherine, in the churchyard of the priory of the Holy Trinity, , founded by Matilda, wife of Henry I., who united the parishes of , St. Michael, St. Catherine, and the Trinity. Of the church of St. Michael (at the angle formed by the junction of Leadenhall and Fenchurch Streets) the crypt existed at the date of Mr. Godwin's writing in , with pointed arched groining and clustered columns, the shafts of which were said to be sunk about feet deep in the earth.

Henry VIII., at the dissolution, gave the priory and the church to Lord Audley, who bequeathed it to Magdalen College, Cambridge. In Stow's time the high street had been so often raised by pavements round , that those who entered had to descend steps. In the year the church, all but the tower was pulled down, and the present building commenced. The new building was consecrated by Archbishop Laud, then Bishop of London, -. Rushworth gives the following account of the opening:

St. Catherine Cree Church being lately repaired, was suspended from all divine service, sermons, and sacraments, till it was consecrated. Wherefore Dr. Laud, Lord Bishop of London, on the 16th January, being the Lord's Day, came thither in the morning to consecrate the same. Now, because great exceptions were taken at the formality thereof, we will briefly relate the manner of the consecration. At the bishop's approach to the west door of the church, some that were prepared for it cried with a loud voice, Open, open, ye everlasting doors, that the King of Glory may come in. And presently the doors were opened, and the bishop, with three doctors, and many other principal men, went in, and immediately falling down upon his knees, with his eyes lifted up, and his arms spread abroad, uttered these words: This place is holy, this ground is holy; in the name of the Father, Son, and Holy Ghost, I pronounce it holy. Then he took up some of the dust, and threw it up into the air several times in his going up towards the church. When they approached near to the rail and communion-table, the bishop bowed towards it several times, and returning they went round the church in procession, saying the Hundredth Psalm, after that the Nineteenth Psalm, and then said a form of prayer, Lord Jesus Christ, &c.; and concluding, We consecrate this church, and separate it unto Thee, as holy ground, not to be profaned any more to common use. After this, the bishop being near the communion-table, and taking a written book in his hand, pronounced curses upon those that should afterwards profane that holy place, by musters of soldiers, or keeping profane law-courts, or carrying burdens through it; and at the end of every curse he bowed towards the east, and said, Let all the people say, Amen. When the curses were ended, he pronounced a number of blessings upon all those that had any hand in framing and building of that sacred church, and those that had given, or should hereafter give, chalices, plate, ornaments, or utensils; and at the end of every blessing he bowed towards the east, saying, Let all the people say, Amen.

After this followed the sermon, which being ended, the bishop consecrated and administered the sacrament in manner following:--As he approached the communion-table he made several lowly bowings, and coming up to the side of the table where the bread and wine were covered, he bowed seven times; and then, after the reading of many prayers, he came near the bread, and gently lifted up the corner of the napkin wherein the bread were laid; and when he beheld the bread. he laid it down again, flew back a step or two, bowed three several times towards it. Then he drew near again, and opened the napkin and bowed as before. Then he laid his hand on the cup, which was full of wine, with a cover upon it, which he let go again, went back, and bowed thrice towards it; then he came near again, and lifting up the cover of the cup, looked into it, and seeing the wine, he let fall the cover again, retired back, and bowed as before. Then he received the sacrament, and gave it to some principal men; after which, many prayers being said, the solemnity of the consecration ended.

In the Middle Ages morality plays were acted in the churchyard of St. Catherine Cree. In an old parish book, quoted by Malcolm, under the date , there is an entry of certain players, who for licence to play their interludes in the churchyard paid the sum of

The most interesting ceremonial to be witnessed in this church is the annual [extra_illustrations.2.190.1]  on Whit-Monday, which is largely attended: the congregation all wear flowers, and a large bouquet is placed on the pulpit before the preacher.

It is generally thought by good authorities that this church was restored under the direction of Inigo Jones. The building displays a strange mixture of Gothic and Greek architecture, yet is still not without a certain picturesqueness. The east window is square-headed; Corinthian columns support a clerestory, and the groined ceiling is coarse and ugly. The chief monument in the church is to the memory of Sir Nicholas Throgmorton, chief butler of England, a chamberlain, and

an ambassador to France from Queen Elizabeth. The tomb, of marble or alabaster,

now (

1839

),

says Mr. Godwin,

painted stone-colour, is canopied, and has a recumbent effigy.

There is also a small tablet, supported by figures of monks (beginning of century). At the west end is an indifferent bas-relief by the elder Bacon. There is also a man more illustrious than these said to be buried here, and that is the great Holbein. The great painter is said to have died in the parish of St. Andrew , and Strype gives this as the place of his interment, adding that the Earl of Arundel had wished to erect a monument to his memory, but was unable to discover the exact spot of his grave. The close of Holbein's career, however, is wrapped in obscurity. Walpole observes that

the spot of his

interment

is as uncertain as that of his

death

;

and he might have added, that there is quite as much doubt about the time.

, so called originally from a shop with the sign of an axe, is a street which runs from into , on the line of the old Roman wall, and so named (like ) from the rough herbs that grew among the old Roman stones. The church of St. Mary, long since vanished, was, says Stow, after the union of the parish with that of St. Andrew , turned into a warehouse. The Smiths, in of the best of the in imitation of Crabbe, play very wittily on the name of -

p.191

Jews from St. Mary Axe, for jobs so wary,

That for old clothes they'd even axe St. Mary.

Near this spot stood, in the reign of Henry V., the London residence of the De Veres, Earls of Oxford. Richard, Earl of Oxford, fought at Agincourt, and died in France, , years after that great victory.

In , opposite the , in , was found the most magnificent Roman tessellated pavement yet discovered in London. It lay at only and a half feet below the street, but a side had been cut away for a sewer. It appeared to have been the floor of a room more than feet square. In the centre was Bacchus upon a tiger, encircled with borders (inflexions of serpents, cornucopiae, and squares diagonally concave), with drinking-cups and plants at the angles. Surrounding the whole was a square border of a bandeau of oak, and lozenge figures and true-lover's knots, and a fivefeet outer margin of plain red tiles. was broken in taking up, but the pieces were preserved in the library of the East India Company. A fragment of an urn and a jawbone were found beneath corner.

In this beautiful specimen of Roman Mosaic,

says Mr. Fisher, who published a coloured print of it,

the drawing, colouring, and shadows are all effected by about

twenty

separate tints, composed of tessellae of different materials, the major part of which are baked earths; but the more brilliant colours of green and purple, which form the drapery, are of glass. These tessellae are of different sizes and figures, adapted to the situations they occupy in the design.

In connection with this interesting discovery, it may be mentioned that another fine Roman pavement, feet square, was found in in , on taking down the . It lay about feet lower than the foundations of Gresham House, on the site of which the was built.

It is,

says a description of it inserted by Mr. Timbs, in his ,

a geometrical pattern of broad blue lines, forming intersections of octagon and lozenge compartments. The octagon figures are bordered with a cable pattern, shaded with grey, and interlaced with a square border shaded with red and yellow. In the centres, within a ring, are expanded flowers, shaded in red, yellow, and grey, the double row of leaves radiating from a figure called a true-love knot, alternately with a figure something like the tigerlily. Between the octagon figures are square compartments bearing various devices. In the centre of the pavement is Ariadne or a Bacchante, reclining on the back of a panther, but only the fore-paws,

one

of the hind-paws, and the tail, remain. Over the head of the figure floats a light drapery, forming an arch. Another square contains a

two

-handled vase. On the demi-octagons, at the sides of the pattern, are lunettes;

one

contains a fan ornament; another, a bowl crowned with flowers. The lozenge intersections are variously embellished with leaves, shells, true-love knots, chequers, and an ornament shaped like a dice-box. At the corners of the pattern are true-love knots. Surrounding this pattern is a broad cable-like border, broad bands of blue and white alternating, then a floral scroll, and beyond this an edge of demi-lozenges, in alternate blue and white. An outer border composed of plain red tessellae, surrounds the whole. The ground of the pavement is white, and the other colours are a scale of full red, yellow, and a bluish grey. This pavement is of late workmanship. Various Roman and mediaeval articles were turned up in the same excavation; among these were a silver denarius of Hadrian, several copper coins of Constantine, and a small copper coin bearing, on the reverse, the figures of Romulus and Remus suckled by the traditionary wolf; several Roman and mediaeval tiles and fragments of pottery; a small glass of a fine blue colour, and coins and tradesmen's tokens were also found.

Perhaps of all the old churches of London there is scarcely so interesting as [extra_illustrations.2.191.1] , nearly opposite the site of the old , the very name itself suggesting some curious and almost forgotten tradition. Stow is peculiarly interesting about this church, which he says derived its singular name from

a high or long shaft or Maypole higher than the church steeple

(hence shaft), which used, early in the morning of May Day, the great spring festival of merry England, to be set up and hung with flowers opposite the south door of St. Andrew's.

This ancient Maypole must have been the very centre of those joyous and innocent May Day revelries sung of by Herrick:--

Come, my Corinna; and comming, marke

How each field turns a street, each street a parke

Made green and trimm'd with trees; see how

Devotion gives each house a bough,

Or branch; each porch, each doore, ere this,

An arke, a tabernacle is,

Made up of white-thorn neatly interwove;

As if here were those cooler shades of love.

Can such delights be in the street

And open fields, and we not see't?

Come, we'll abroad, and let's obey

The proclamation made for May,

And sin no more, as we have done, by staying;

But, my Corinna, come, let's go a Maying.

p.192

 

The venerable St. Andrew's Maypole was never raised after that fatal

Evil May Day,

in the reign of Henry VIII., which we have mentioned in our chapter on . It remained dry-rotting on its friendly hooks in Shaft Alley till the year of Edward VI., when the Reforming preachers, growing unusually hot and zealous in the sunshine of royal favour, and, as a natural consequence, considerably intolerant, Sir Stephen, a curate of the neighbouring St. Katherine's , , preached against the good old Maypole, and called it an

Idol,

advising all men to alter the Popish names of churches and the names of the days of the week, to eat fish any day but Friday and Saturday, and to keep Lent any
time but between Shrovetide and Easter. The same eccentric reformer used to preach out of a high elm-tree in his churchyard, and sing high mass in English from a tomb, far from the altar. The sermon denouncing the Maypole was preached at Paul's Cross, when Stow himself was present; and that same afternoon the good old historian says he saw the Shaft Alley people,

after they had dined, to make themselves strong, gathered more help, and with great labour, raising the shaft from the hooks whereon it had rested

two

-and-

thirty

years, they sawed it in pieces, every man taking for his share so much as had lain over his door and stall, the length of his house.

Thus was the

idol

mangled and burned. Not long after there was a

p.193

Romish riot in Essex, and the bailiff of Romford was hung just by the well at , on the pavement in front of Stow's own house. While on the ladder this poor perplexed bailiff said he did not know why he was to be hung, unless it was for telling Sir Stephen (the enemy of the Maypole) that there was heavy news in the country, and many men were up in Essex. After this man's death Sir Stephen stole out of London, to avoid popular reproach, and was never afterwards heard of by good old Stow. And this is the whole story of St. Andrew's Maypole and the foolish curate of Catherine Cree.

Many eminent citizens were buried in this church. Among them we may name John Kirby, the great Elizabethan merchant tailor, and Stow himself, Stephen Jennings, Mayor of London, another worthy merchant tailor, who, in , rebuilt half the church, but sought a grave in the Grey Friars (). An old chronicler mentions

at the lower end of the north ile

of this church

a faire wainscot press full of good books, the works of many learned and reverend

Moorfields And Its Neighbourhood. (From A Map Of About 1720.)

divines,

for chance readers; and there still is a desk with curious old books (mostly black letter), which formerly were chained to open cages. The present church, rebuilt -, consists of a nave and aisles, with a ribbed and flattened perpendicular roof, painted and gilt, with flowers and emblazoned shields. The chancel has also paintings of the heavenly choir, landscapes, and buildings. St. Andrew's boasts much stained glass, particularly a large painted window at the east end, containing whole-length portraits of Edward VI., Elizabeth, James, Charles I., and Charles II. This church was pewed soon after . It contains many valuable brasses, tablets, and monuments, as might be expected in a celebrated city church lucky enough to escape the Great Fire. The most special and memorable of these is the terra-cotta monument to worthy, indefatigable, honest old Stow. [extra_illustrations.2.194.1]  was erected at the expense of his widow, and the effigy was formerly painted to resemble life. The worthy old chronicler is represented sitting at a table, as he

p.194

must have spent half his existence, with a book before him (an old parish register, no doubt), and he holds a pen in his hand, as was his custom. The figure is. squat and stiff, but the portrait is no doubt exact. There was formerly, says Cunningham, a railing before the tomb. That Stow was a tailor, born about , in the parish of St. Michael, , we have stated in a previous chapter. That he lived near Pump we have also noted. He seems to have written his laborious and amidst care and poverty. He was a friend of Camden, and a of Archbishop Parker, yet all he could obtain from James I. was a license to beg. He died a twelvemonth after this effusion of royal favour, and was buried at St. Andrew's in . In his body was removed, says Maitland,

to make way for another.

His collection for the in quarto volumes, are now in the . Wonderful of topographical facts! Peter Anthony Motteux, the clever translator of already mentioned by us, was buried here, but there is no monument to his memory.

 
 
Footnotes:

[extra_illustrations.2.188.1] Leadenhall (now celebrated for its poultry

[extra_illustrations.2.189.2] Leadenhall Market

[extra_illustrations.2.189.3] St. Catherine Cree (or Christ Church)

[extra_illustrations.2.190.1] flower sermon

[] quote missing in original.

[extra_illustrations.2.191.1] St. Andrew Undershaft, Leadenhall Street

[extra_illustrations.2.194.1] The monument to Stow

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 Title Page
 Chapter I: Fishmonger's Hall and Fish Street Hill
 Chapter II: London Bridge
 Chapter III: Upper Thames Street
 Chapter IV: Upper Thames Street
 Chapter V: Lower Thames Street
 Chapter VI: The Tower
 Chapter VII: The Tower (continued)
 Chapter VIII: Old Jewel House
 Chapter IX: The Tower, Visitors to the Tower
 Chapter X: The Neighbourhood of the Tower
 Chapter XI: Neighbourhood of the Tower, The Mint
 Chapter XII: Neighbourhood Of The Tower
 Chapter XIII: St. Katherine's Docks
 Chapter XIV: The Tower Subway and London Docks
 Chapter XV: The Thames Tunnel
 Chapter XVI: Stepney
 Chapter XVII: Whitechapel
 Chapter XVIII: Bethnal Green
 Chapter XIX: Spitalfields
 Chapter XX: Bishopsgate
 Chapter XXI: Bishopsgate
 Chapter XXII: Cornhill
 Chapter XXIII: Leadenhall Street
 Chapter XXIV: Leadenhall Street
 Chapter XXV: Shoreditch
 Chapter XXVI: Moorfields
 Chapter XXVII: Aldersgate Street
 Chapter XXVIII: Aldersgate Street
 Chapter XXIX: Cripplegate
 Chapter XXX: Aldgate
 Chapter XXXI: Islington
 Chapter XXXII: Islington
 Chapter XXXIII: Canonbury
 Chapter XXXIV: Highbury-Upper Holloway-King's Cross
 Chapter XXXV: Pentonville
 Chapter XXXVI: Sadler's Wells
 Chapter XXXVII: Bagnigge Wells
 Chapter XXXIII: Coldbath Fields and Spa Fields
 Chapter XXXIX: Hockley-In-The-Hole
 Chapter XL: Clerkenwell
 Chapter XLI: Clerkenwell-(continued)
 Chapter XLII: Smithfield
 Chapter XLIII: Smithfield and Bartholomew Fair
 Chapter XLIV: The Churches of Bartholomeu-The-Great and Bartholomew-The-Less
 Chapter XLV: St. Bartholomew's Hospital
 Chapter XLVI: Christ's Hospital
 Chapter XLVII: The Charterhouse
 Chapter XLVIII: The Charterhouse--(continued)
 Chapter XLIX: The Fleet Prison
 Chapter L: The Fleet River and Fleet Ditch
 Chapter LI: Newgate Street
 Chapter LII: Newgate
 Chapter LII: Newgate (continued)
 Chapter LIV: The Old Bailey
 Chapter LV: St. Sepulchre's and its Neighbourhood
 Chapter LVI: The Metropolitan Meat-Market
 Chapter LVII: Farringdon Street, Holborn Viaduct, and St. Andrew's Church
 Chapter LVIII: Ely Place
 Chapter LIX: Holborn, to Chancery Lane
 Chapter LX: The Northern Tributaries of Holborn
 Chapter LXI: The Holborn Inns of Court and Chancery
 Chapter LXII: The Holborn Inns of Court and Chancery (continued)