Old and New London, A Narrative of its History, its People and its Places. Illustrated with Numerous Engravings from the Most Authentic Sources. vol 2
Thornbury, Walter
1872-78
Chapter XL: Clerkenwell.Gate-House of Detention Interior-House of Detention Van bringing prisoners Entrance-New Jail
Chapter XL: Clerkenwell.Gate-House of Detention Interior-House of Detention Van bringing prisoners Entrance-New Jail
The House of Detention, Clerkenwell, a place of imprisonment as old as , was rebuilt in , and also in . This prison was the scene, in , of that daring attempt to rescue the Fenian prisoners, Burke and Casey, which for a day or scared London. | |
says a writer in the , | |
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Several persons were arrested as having been | |
p.310 | implicated in the crime, and tried at the Central Criminal Court. At their trial a boy, who was the only eye-witness of the attempt, deposed that about a quarter to o'clock he was standing at Mr. Young's door, No. , when he saw a large barrel close to the wall of the prison, and a man leave the barrel and cross the road. Shortly afterwards the man returned with a long squib in each hand. of these he gave to some boys who were playing in the street, and the other he thrust into the barrel. of the boys was smoking, and he handed the man a light, which the man applied to the squib. The man stayed a short time, until he saw the squib begin to burn, and then he ran away. A policeman ran after him; and when he arrived opposite No. The boy saw no more after that, as he himself was covered with bricks and mortar. There was a white cloth over the barrel, which was black; and when the man returned with the squib he partly uncovered the barrel, but did not wholly remove the cloth. There were several men and women in the street at the time, and children playing. little boys were standing near the barrel all the time. Some of the people ran after the man who lighted the squib. |
The legends and traditions of this most ancient and interesting district of London all cluster round [extra_illustrations.2.310.1] (the old south gate of the priory of St. John of Jerusalem), and the old crypt of , relics of old religion and of ancient glory. | |
For upwards of years [extra_illustrations.2.310.2] , and a brief noteof their origin here becomes indispensable. The order seems to have had its rise in the middle of the century, when some pious merchants of Amalfi obtained leave of the Mohammedans to build a refuge for sick and needy Christian pilgrims, near the church of the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem. The hospital was dedicated to St. John the Cypriote, Patriarch of Alexandria, a good man, who, in the century, when the Saracens took Jerusalem, had generously sent money and food to the afflicted Christians of Syria. Subsequently the order renounced John the Patriarch, and took up with the more agreeable patronage of St. John the Baptist. | |
In the crusade, when the overwhelming forces of Christian Europe forced their way into the Holy city, and the streets which Christ had trodden, scattering blessings, floated in infidel blood, the hospital of St. John was filled with wounded Crusaders, many of whom, on their recovery, doffed their mail and put on the robes of the holy and charitable brotherhood. The real founder of the order was Gerard, who, when Godfrey de Bouillon was chosen King of Jerusalem, in , proposed to the brethren a regular costume, and became the rector or master of the order. The dress formally adopted, in , was a black robe and white cross. Raymond de Pay, who succeeded Gerard, took a bolder step. Tired of merely feeding and nursing sick and hungry pilgrims, he proposed to his brethren to make the order a military . By this section of the church militant had whipped off hundreds of shaven heads, and covered themselves with glory. | |
In , when Saladin retook Jerusalem, he was gracious to the Hospitallers, who had been kind to the wounded and the prisoners, and he allowed of the order to remain and complete their cures. Still indefatigable against the unbelievers, the men of the black robe and white cross fought bravely at the taking of Ptolemais, in , and from them this strong seaport town, which they held for nearly centuries, derived its new name of St. Jean d'Acre. | |
Siege and battle, desert march and hill fights, had, however, now thinned the black mantles, and more men had to be sent out to recruit the little army of muscular Christians. The departure of the reinforcement from Clerkenwell Priory is thus picturesquely described by the old monkish chronicler, Matthew Paris:--
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says writer,
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In , at the desperate siege of Acre, the fighting of straight sword against sabre was so hot, | |
p.311 | and such were the falls from roof and battlement, that only of the Syrian detachment escaped to Cyprus. In the Hospitallers conquered Rhodes and other islands from the Infidel, and commenced privateering against all Mohammedan vessels. In these stalwart Christians took Smyrna, which post they held for years, till they were forced out of the stronghold by Tamerlane. Rhodes becoming an unbearable thorn in the flesh to turbaned mariners, in , an army of Turks besieged the island for days, but in vain. In Mahomet II. was repulsed, after a siege of days, leaving shaven Infidels dead around the ramparts. In cautious Henry VII. of England was chosen Protector of the order, and promised men and money against the scorners of Christianity, but supplied neither. But the end came at last; in Solyman the Magnificent besieged Rhodes with men, and eventually, after a stubborn months' siege, and the loss of men by violence, and as many by disease, the brave grand master, L'Isle Adam, after his honourable capitulation, came to England to appeal to Henry VIII., whose fat, greedy hand was already stretched out towards the Clerkenwell Priory. The order had done its duty, and Henry was touched by the venerable old warrior's appeal: he confirmed the privileges of the knights, and gave L'Isle Adam a golden basin and ewer, set with jewels, and artillery to the value of crowns. The recovery of Rhodes was not, however, attempted by the Hospitallers, as the Emperor Charles V. ceded Malta to them on the annual payment of a falcon to the reigning King of Spain. |
The generous concessions of Henry VIII. lasted only as long as the tyrant's purse was full. Having little to say against the Clerkenwell knights, he suppressed the order because it intending thereby to subvert William Weston, the last prior, and other officers of the order, were bought off by small annuities. Fuller particularly mentions that the Knights Hospitallers, would not present the king with puling petitions, but stood bravely on their rights. They judged it best, however, to submit. Some of the knights retired to Malta. who remained were beheaded as traitors to King Henry, and a was hanged and quartered. Queen Mary restored the order to their possessions, but Elizabeth again drove off the knights to Malta. | |
says Mr. Pinks, | |
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Between the years and , says Mr. Pinks, there was an attempt in London to revive | |
as an independent corporation existing under the royal letters patent of Philip and Mary, but it proved hard to galvanise the corpse of chivalry. In Sir Robert Peat was installed into the office of grand prior; and in , by proceedings in the Court of King's Bench, the corporation of the Langue was formally revived. Sir Robert Peat was succeeded in by Sir Henry Dymoke, hereditary champion of the Crown, and in the Hon. Sir Charles Montolieu Lamb, Bart., accepted the office. The object of the order is the promotion of charity, and the knights are chiefly Protestants. The heads of the order at Rome still refuse to recognise the English Langue as an integral branch of the ancient order of St. John. | |
About the knights adopted a red cassock, and a white cross as their military dress, reserving the black mantle worn in imitation of the Baptist's garment in the wilderness for hospital use. Their standard was red, with a white cross. The Hospitallers' churches were all sanctuaries, and lights were kept perpetually burning in them. The knights had the right of burying even felons who had given them alms during life. | |
p.314 | |
The Hospitallers had also the privilege of administering the sacrament to interdicted persons, and even in interdicted towns; and they were also allowed to bury the interdicted in the churchyards of any of their commanderies. | |
The order began, like the Templars, in poverty, and ended in luxury and corruption. The governor was entitled, at , The knights ended by growing so rich, that about the year of our Lord , says Weever, they held in Christendom lordships and manors. They are known to have lent Edward III. money. In Lady Joan Grey of Hampton, left her manor and manor-house of Hampton (several acres) to the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem, an estate of which Cardinal Wolsey procured a lease for years from Sir Thomas Docwra, the last prior, who lost the election for the grand mastership by only votes, when contesting it with his kinsman, L'Isle Adam. | |
Brave as the Hospitallers of Clerkenwell always remained, they soon, we fear, grew proud, avaricious, and selfish. Edward III. had to reprove the brotherhood for its proud insolence. When Henry III. threatened to take away their charter, the prior told him that a king who was unjust did not deserve the name of monarch. In the English prior, Thomas l'Archer, raised by cutting down woods round all the commanderies; he also sold leases and pensions for any terms of ready money, and by bribes to the judges, he procured for the order forfeited lands of the Templars. | |
Every preceptory of the Hospitallers paid its own expenses, except that of Clerkenwell, where the grand prior resided, and had many pensioners to support, and many courtly and noble guests to entertain. In the year this priory spent more than its entire revenue, which was at least . | |
says Mr. Pinks,
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The prior of St. John of Jerusalem ranked as the baron of England, says Selden, His proud motto was -a baron indeed. | |
Sir William Weston, the last prior but of St. John, distinguished himself during the siege of Rhodes. His father's brothers were also knights of the order, and of them had been Lord Prior of England and General of the Galleys. At the dissolution King Henry awarded Sir William a pension of a year; but the suppression of the order in England broke his brave heart soon after. Sir Thomas Tresham, the last prior, died a year or after his investiture. A Sir William Tresham was residing at in . He was of the same family as Sir Francis Tresham, whose mysterious letter to his friend Lord Monteagle led to the fortunate discovery of the Gunpowder Plot. It will not be forgotten by our readers that a Protestant band of the Knights Hospitallers still exists in Prussia, rich and numerous. | |
The Priory of St. John of Jerusalem, at Clerkenwell, was founded by Lord Jordan Briset, in the reign of Henry I. He founded also the Nuns' house at Clerkenwell. In the church was consecrated by Heraclius, Patriarch of Jerusalem. In the reign of Edward I. further additions were made to the priory; the preceptory was burned by Wat Tyler's rabble, and it was not till that the hospital was restored to its full grandeur, and the grand south gate erected by Sir Thomas Docwra. Camden says of the building, admiringly, that it resembled a palace, and had in it a very fair church, and a tower-steeple raised to a great height, with so fine workmanship that it was a singular beauty and ornament to the city. | |
At the dissolution Henry VIII. gave the priory church to John Dudley, Viscount Lisle, Lord High Admiral of England for ; and the church and priory were used by that bloated Ahab, Henry, as a storehouse for his toils and hunting-tents. Edward VI., as careless of confiscating sacred things as his tyrannical father, gave away the remaining land. | |
says Stow,
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The curse of sacrilege, in Spelman's opinion, fell on the Protector. He never finished his Strand house, nor did his son inherit it, and he himself perished on the scaffold. The stones of Priory went to build the porch of the church of Allhallows, in . The choir, in Fuller's time, was in the walls having been shattered by the Protector's gunpowder. | |
On Mary's succession, Cardinal Pole, on the revival of the order, built a west front to the priory church, and repaired the side chapels. We find on the day of the decollation of St. John the Baptist, that the Merchant Taylors came to celebrate mass at the priory church, when the choir was hung with arras, and every made offerings at the altar. | |
Many remarkable historical scenes took place at [extra_illustrations.2.315.1] . of the most remarkable of these was the aulic council held by Henry II. and his barons, when the patriarch Heraclius and the grand master of the Hospitallers, came to England to urge Henry to a new crusade. Heraclius brought with him the keys of David's Tower and the Holy Sepulchre, and an offer of the crown of Jerusalem. When the barons agreed that the king should not lead the crusaders in person, the patriarch flew into an inappeasable rage. he cried; The master of the Hospitallers was extremely hurt at the behaviour of the patriarch Heraclius, but the king took no notice of his insolence. | |
In King John, that dark and malign usurper, spent a whole month at the Priory of St. John, feasted by the prior, and on Easter Sunday, at table, he knighted Alexander, the son of the King of Scotland, a ceremony which cost young Sandy In Prince Edward and his loving wife, Eleanor of Castile, were entertained here. The prince had married his wife when she was only years of age, and on claiming her, at , came to Priory for their honeymoon. In we find Henry IV., not yet crowned, coming down Chepe to , and, after lodging with the bishop for or days, staying a fortnight at the priory. In King Henry V., that chivalrous king, says the Grey Friars' chronicler, was
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In the year a royal council was held at . Public indignation was aroused by a well-founded rumour of the intended espousal by Richard III. of Elizabeth of York, his niece, his queen, Anne, being then lately dead. The chronicler relates that a convocation of doctors of divinity had sat on a case of marriage of uncle and niece, and declared that the kindred was too near for the Pope's bull to sanction. | |
The Princess Mary lived at the priory in much pomp, sometimes visiting her brother, Edward VI., in great state. Machyn, in his curious diary, describes her riding from to , attended by Catholic lords, knights, and gentlemen, in coats of velvet and chains of gold, and on another day returning to ; followed by fourscore Catholic gentlemen and ladies,. each with an ostentatious pair of black beads, In newly-made serjeants-at-law gave a great banquet at , to all the Lords and Commons, and the mayor and aldermen. Rings were given to the guests, and, according to Stow, at of these feasts, in , great beeves were consumed, besides dozen pigeons and dozen swans. | |
In Elizabeth's reign, when sacred things were roughly handled, Tylney, the queen's Master of the Revels, resided at , with all his tailors, embroiderers, painters, and carpenters, and all artificers required to arrange court plays and masques. In this reign Master Tylney licensed all plays, regulated the stage for years, and passed no less than of Shakespeare's dramas, commencing with . and ending with ; he might have told us or things about the but he died in , and left no diary or autobiography. The court revels were all rehearsed in the great hall at . In James I. gave the priory to Lord Aubigny, and the Revels Office was removed to . The house afterwards came into the possession of Sir William Cecil, grandson of the famous Lord Treasurer Burleigh. The repaired choir was reopened in , by Dr. Joseph Hall, afterwards Bishop of | |
p.316 | Exeter and Norwich. In the reign of Charles I. the church served as private chapel to the Earl of Elgin, who occupied the house, and it was called Aylesbury Chapel. It became a Presbyterian meeting-house till . |
During the absurd Sacheverell riots, when a High Church mob turned out to destroy Dissenting chapels, Chapel happening to be near the house of the obnoxious Bishop Burnet, the fanatics gutted the building, and burnt the pews, &c., before Burnet's door. [extra_illustrations.2.316.1] was a High Church clergyman, who, in a public sermon at , had proclaimed the doctrine of passive obedience, and was, in consequence, sent for trial to Hall, where the Tories triumphantly acquitted him. The chapel was enlarged in , and in was bought for by the commissioners for building new churches. | |
In the present church, which was restored and improved by Mr. Griffith, in , of the large painted windows at the east end remains in its old state. In the south and east walls are remains of Prior Docwra's perpendicular work, and the pews stand upon capitals and rib mouldings of the former church. There are some few traces of early English architecture. An old gabled wooden building near the south side of the church, as seen in Hollar's view of the priory (), is still standing, says Mr. Pinks, and is occupied by Sunday Schools. Stones of the old church were discovered in , forming sides of. the main sewer through . The arms of Prior Botyler (-), a chevron between combs, are still to be seen in the central east window. The head of the beadle's staff, a Knight Hospitaller in silver, was in use in the time of James II., and belonged to the old church of St. James. The portable baptismal bowl is antique, and once supplied the place of a font. Langhome, the poet, was curate and lecturer at [extra_illustrations.2.316.2] , in . He defended the Scotch against Churchill's satire, and helped his brother to translate Plutarch's A poem of Langhorne's moved Burns to tears, the only night Sir Walter Scott, then a child, ever saw him. | |
In the vaults of this church the celebrated promised to manifest itself to credulous Dr. Johnson and others. The great bibliopole and his friends were thus ridiculed by Churchill for their visit to :
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The church is, in fact, chiefly remarkable for its crypt, the descent to which is at the north-east angle, under the vestry. It seems originally, by Hollar's view of the east end of the church, in , to have been then above ground. Though years old, the crypt of is in good preservation. The chief portion consists of bays, semi-Norman and early English, the ribs of the latter bays springing from triple clustered columns, with moulded capitals and bases. From each keystone hangs an iron ring. On each side of the western bays are pointed window openings, now blocked up. The central avenue of the crypt is feet wide, and feet high, and there are corresponding side-aisles. At the entrance of the vault is a place where the gardener used to keep his tools, and where, for many years, stood a coffin said to have been arrested for debt. The coffins used to stand in rows, or deep, covered with dust, and shreds of black cloth. The ends of some had fallen out, and the bony feet had protruded. In a committee of gentlemen reporting on repairs found a sheet of cobweb hanging from the upper coffins to feet long, and in parts nearly as broad. In the coffins were piled up in the aisles, that of the Ghost, among them, and all the side passages bricked up. | |
Many years ago workmen making a sewer beneath the square, nearly in a line with Jerusalem Passage, came on a chalk and flint wall feet thick, and Mr. Cromwell decided that this was part of the foundation of the stately tower described by Stow. It is supposed that the church was | |
p.317 | feet long, and that its transepts stood in a direct line with Gate. The enclosure walls can still partially be traced, and the modern buildings in , says Mr. Griffiths, are mostly built on the old rubble walls of the hospital. The foundations of the cellars under No. , and the basements of Nos. and on the north side of , formed the foundations of the old priory walls. Between No. and No. a wall was found feet thick: some of the stones had been used for windows, and showed the action of fire. The north postern of the priory was taken down in : here were then feet of old wall westward of Gate. There were also remains of the priory in Ledbury Place, which formed the west garden-wall of Bishop Burnet's house, and also in the west garden-wall of Dr. Adam Clarke's house, which adjoined Burnet's house. |
That fine specimen of Sir Thomas Docwra's perpendicular, [extra_illustrations.2.317.1] , is built of brick and freestone. The walls are about feet thick, and are built of brick, faced with Ryegate stone, the same as used for Henry VII.'s Chapel. The famous gate and its flanking towers, formerly much higher than they are now since the soil has risen around them, are pierced with numerous windows, the principal being a wide Tudor arch, with mullions and many coats of arms. Beneath this window are several shields, set in Gothic niches. In the centre are the arms of France and England, surmounted by a crown; on each side are the arms of the priory. Outside these are shields, bearing the founders' arms impaling the arms of England, the other emblazoning the insignia of Sir Thomas Docwra. Underneath these last shields were formerly the initials separated by a Maltese cross and the word On the north side of the gate, facing the square, are other shields, and, in low relief, the words
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The entrance to the west tower, says Mr. Pinks, from the north side of the gate, now no longer used, once led to a staircase, the entrance to Cave's printing-office. The carvings on the spandrils of the doorcase, now decayed, are described in as representing a hawk and a cock, a hen and a lion, supporting the shield of the priory, and that of Sir Thomas Docwra. The old stone floor is feet below the present surface. The round tower internally contains remains of the old well staircase (half stone, half oak) which led to the top of the gateway. The upper part was made of blocks of oak inches thick. The east tower had probably a similar staircase. The stone staircase in the north-west tower was removed in . The entrance to the east tower, on the north side the gate, has been long ago blocked up. | |
In Hollar draws the gate as blocked up with a wooden structure, beneath which were distinct passages. This was removed in . The roof of the now dwarfed archway is, says an able historian of Clerkenwell, On the keystone is carved the paschal lamb, kneeling on a clasped copy of the Gospels, and supporting a flag. In a line with the lamb are coloured shields of the priory, and of Docwra. | |
On the east side of the archway Mr. Foster, the keeper of the Tavern, and a great lover of ancient architecture, placed a large oilpainting, by Mr. John Wright, representing the Knights of St. John starting for a joust. For the Tavern, on the east basement, a south side-entrance was ruthlessly cut through the angle of the projecting gate-tower. | |
The basement on the west side was, in , converted into a watch-house, and was afterwards turned into a dispensary hospital by the modern Knights of St. John, which in its year benefited persons. It then became a coal-shed, and after that a book-store. In many of the gate-house rooms there are still oak--panelled ceilings. The the memorable room over the arch, is approached by an Elizabethan staircase, and in the hall are dull figures in armour, supposed, by courtesy, to represent Prior Weston and Prior Docwra; and a handsome bust of Mr. Till, the numismatist, adorns the mantelpiece. It was this Mr. Till who cast from old Greek and Roman coins the bronze armorial bearings of the priory and of Docwra, which adorn the parlour and hall. | |
It was here [extra_illustrations.2.317.2] toiled for [extra_illustrations.2.317.3] , the editor of the , and here Garrick made his theatrical debut in London. | |
Between -, says Mr. Percy Fitzgerald, in his Garrick's friend Johnson -- now working out a miserable from the very humblest hack-work, and almost depending for his crust on some little article that he could now and again get into the --was by this time intimate with Mr. Cave, of Gate, the publisher of that journal. Johnson mentioned his companion, and speaking of his gay dramatic talents, inspired this plain and practical bookseller with some curiosity, and it was agreed that an amateur performance should take | |
p.318 | place in a room over the archway, with Mr. Garrick in a leading comic character. It was duly arranged; the piece fixed on was Fielding's Several of the printers were called in, parts were given to them to read, and there is an epilogue to the , by Garrick, which, as it was inserted shortly afterwards in the , would seem to have been spoken on this occasion. This shows how absorbing was his taste for the stage, sure to break out when there was the slightest promise of an opening. The performance gave great amusement, and satisfied the sober Cave; and presently, perhaps as a mark of the publisher's satisfaction, some of Mr. Garrick's short love verses were admitted into the poetical department of the magazine, |
The delightful traditions that encrust, as with many-coloured lichens, the old gate, cluster thickest around the old room over the arch, for there Johnson, Garrick, and Goldsmith spent many pleasant hours, and it is good to sit there among the club, and muse over the great men's memories. | |
In the coffee-room on the basement floor is an old-fashioned wide wooden chair, which, tradition asserts, was the favourite chair of Dr. Johnson. On the top rail is boldly painted the date of the doctor's birth and death. The chair was, however, it is hinted, merely an old chair found in an upper room by Mr. Benjamin Foster, when he took the tavern, and labelled as an attraction to the gullible public. The stone Tudor mantelpiece in the coffee-room is an old | |
p.319 | discovered on the pulling down of a modern fireplace. In the wall ( feet inches thick) in the side of this fireplace was found the entrance to a secret passage opening at the archway of the gate. It is doubtful whether this tavern was opened before or after Cave's death, but it is supposed that it was called the Tavern; this name being assumed from the Tavern in . In the terms of the Metropolitan Building Act compelled the parish to see to the gate, when the Freemasons of the Church, a useful architectural society, at once generously undertook its restoration, and saved it from being daubed up with cement. The upper portions of the towers were then re-cased with rough stone, the windows new mullioned, at a cost of |
, the Society of Antiquaries refusing to assist. The original gate was no doubt burned by Wat Tyler's men, but Mr. Griffith, F.S.A., during these restorations, discovered [extra_illustrations.2.320.1] , in a ceiling in , Clerkenwell, on the site of the residence of Sir Maurice Berkeley, standard-bearer to Henry VIII., Edward VI., and Elizabeth. He also, in , discovered near the gate a stone boss, sculptured with foliage, and a carved stone windowhead, from the old priory, with the priory arms in the spandril of the arch. Both interesting fragments are preserved at the South Kensington Museum. In the reign of James I. this great south gate was given to Sir Roger Wilbraham, who resided here. | |
p.320 | |
In the gate became dignified by its connection with literature. Cave, the printer, careful, shrewd, and industrious, set up his presses in the hall over the gateway, and started the , , displaying the gate in a rude woodcut on the exterior of the periodical, and very soon drew public attention to his magazine. | |
With Gate is connected Dr. Johnson's struggles towards the daylight. Here, after hungry walks with Savage round , and long controversies in Grub Street cookshops, he came to toil for Cave, who employed him to edit the contributions, and to translate from Latin, French, and Italian. About the year he produced his a grand imitation of the satire of Juvenal. In , like a loyal vassal of his editor, Johnson gratified an insatiable public curiosity, by giving himself a monthly sketch of the debates in both Houses of Parliament, a scheme projected by a man named Guthrie. that the only part of his writings which then gave him any compunction was his account of the debates in the , but that at the time he wrote them he did not think he was imposing on the world. The mode of preparing them which he adopted, he said, He wrote these debates with more velocity than any of his other productions; he sometimes produced columns of the magazine within an hour. He once wrote pages in day, and that not a long , beginning, perhaps, at noon, and ending early in the evening. Of the he wrote octavo pages in day, but that day included the night, for he sat up all night to do it. | |
continues Mr. Pinks,
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When working for Cave, at Gate, Johnson was still dependent. remarks Mr. Pinks, | |
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In some small cannon were mounted on the battlements of Gate, but for what purpose is not known. About of the lightning-conductors recommended by Dr. Franklin was erected on of the eastern towers of Gate, for electrical experiments, which were the rage of the day. | |
After Cave's death, in , the e was printed and published at the gate by Cave's brotherin-law and nephew. On the nephew's death Mr. David Bond became the publisher for the family, and continued so till the end of . Mr. Nichols then purchased a considerable share of the , and in , just years from its commencement, the property was transferred to , , and after years there, it was transferred to , where it remained for years. | |
A short biographical notice of the worthy Cave, Johnson's earliest patron, is indispensable to a full history of that interesting relic of old London, Gate. The enterprising printer and publisher, born in , was the son of a man reduced in fortune, who had turned shoemaker, and was educated at Rugby. In youth he was alternately clerk to an excise collector, and a timber-merchant. After being bound apprentice to a London printer, he was sent to manage an office and publish a weekly newspaper at Norwich. He was subsequently employed at the printing-office of Alderman Barber (a friend of Swift), and wrote Tory articles in Obtaining a small place in the , he began to supply the London papers with provincial intelligence, and the country printers with surreptitious reports of Parliamentary debates, for which, in , he was imprisoned for several days. From the he was moved to the Frank Office, where he was dismissed for stopping a letter--as he considered legally--being a frank given to the terrible old Duchess of Marlborough by Mr. Walter Plummer. Putting by, at last, a sum of money (in spite of endless unsuccessful projects), Cave started the , and for the last years of his industrious life was an affluent, thrifty man. His prizes for poems and epigrams brought forward but few poets, and his chief prize-takers, after all, turned out to be Moses Browne, a Clerkenwell pen-cutter, and Mr. John Duick, another pen-cutter, in , with whom Cave used to play at shuttlecock in the old gate-house. | |
In the death of his wife hastened Cave's end. of his last acts was to fondly press the hand of his great contributor, and the main prop and stay of the Samuel Johnson. Cave died at the old gate-house in , and was buried (probably without memorial) in the old church of St. James, Clerkenwell. An epitaph was, however, written by Dr. Hawkesworth for Rugby Church, where all Cave's relations were buried. | |
An old -quarter length portrait of Cave was found by Mr. Foster in a room on the south side of the great chamber over gateway, and, in his usual imaginative yet business-like way, Mr. Foster labelled it This gentleman, it is said, originally kept the house, in the , near the and in removed to Gate, where, by energy and urbanity, he soon hunted up traditions of the place, and, indeed, where they were thin, invented them. He was chairman of the Licensed Victuallers' Asylum, and was active in the cause of benevolence. He died in , of apoplexy, after speaking at a Clerkenwell vestry-meeting. | |
The Urban Club, a pleasant literary society, well supported, was started at Gate during Mr. Foster's reign, under the name of but soon changed its name, in compliment to that abstract yet famous personage, Sylvanus Urban. It annually celebrated the birth of Shakespeare in an intellectual and yet convivial way. | |
The once famous [extra_illustrations.2.322.1] from whence of the milestone distances from London was computed, stood, says the indefatigable Mr. Pinks, about yards from , in the widest part of , near the entrance to . Hicks's Hall was a stately house, built in , as a sessions house for Clerkenwell, by that great citizen, Sir Baptist Hicks, silk mercer, | |
p.322 | in Soper Lane, in the reign of James I. During the reigns of Edward VI., Mary, and Elizabeth the Middlesex magistrates had generally met in a scrambling and indecorous fashion, at some chance inn, frequently the or the in , by . The noise of the carriers' wagons vexing the grave Justice Shallows of those days, James I. granted, in , to Sir Thomas Lake and other knights and esquires of Middlesex, a piece of ground, feet long and feet broad, with feet of carriage-way on each side. Sir Baptist, having built the new sessions hall at his own proper charge, feasted, on the day of opening, justices of the county, who then, standing up with raised goblets, with consent christened the new building Hicks's Hall. Sir Baptist seems to have been a most wealthy and influential citizen, and to have lent King James, who was careless and extravagant enough, vast sums of money, besides supplying the court with stuffs and cloths, of tissue and gold; and silks, satins, and velvets, the courtiers getting very much entangled with the rich mercer's bills and bonds. In the Earl of Somerset borrowed Sir Baptist's house at Kensington, and it is certain that he lived with all the splendour of a nobleman. In Sir Baptist Hicks was advanced to the peerage as Viscount Campden. He died in the year , and was buried at Campden, in his native county of Gloucestershire. Of his daughters, married Lord Noel, the other Sir Charles Morison, of Cashiobury, and it is said he gave each of them for a marriage portion. He left to the poor of Kensington, founded almshouses at Campden, and left large sums to the Mercers' Company. That celebrated preacher, Baptist Noel, son of the Earl of Gainsborough, Viscount Campden, derived his singular Christian name from the rich mercer of Soper Lane. Sir Baptist's great house at Kensington (with rooms), burnt in , was, it is said, won by him from Sir Walter Cope, in a game of chance. The Viscountess of Campden, the widow of Sir Baptist, left vast sums in charity, some of which bequests, being illegal, were seized by the Parliament. |
The sessions hall built by Sir Baptist was a mean square brick house, with a stone portico, and annexed to the hall was a round-house, and close by was a pillory. At Hicks's Hall criminals were dissected. This court has been the scene of some great historical trials. The regicides were tried there, and so were many of the conspirators in the so-called Popish Plot; and here also Count Konigsmarck was tried for murdering his rival, Mr. Thynne, and was acquitted. Hicks's Hall is referred to in -
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When [extra_illustrations.2.322.2] , a builder, the father of Dr. Johnson's spiteful biographer, used to go to Hicks's Hall, as chairman of the Middlesex Quarter Sessions, he used to drive pompously from his house at Highgate, in a coach and horses. | |
In Hicks's Hall became so ruinous that it was proposed to rebuild it, at an expense of . This was opposed in Parliament, the traffic of rendering the place too noisy and inconvenient. A new sessions house was therefore built on the west side of , in , and the old hall was pulled down, but for a long time afterwards [extra_illustrations.2.322.3] went by the old name. To the new house a portrait of Sir Baptist Hicks and a fine Jacobean mantelpiece were removed by Rogers the architect. | |
, Clerkenwell, is of the most ancient of the northern London streets, and is mentioned in a charter of confirmation as early as the year . It seems originally to have been only a way for pack-horses. It was paved in the reign of Richard II. In the reign of Henry VIII. it had become and very necessary to be kept clean for the avoiding of pestilence. In Stow's time this road was used by persons coming from Highgate, Muswell Hill, &c., but grand persons often took to the fields, in preference, as we find Elizabeth, James I., and Charles I. doing; and no doubt was a deep-rutted, dirty country road, something like a neglected plank road in Kentucky, or a suburban street in a Russian country town. | |
There was, in early times, a raised and paved causeway leading from to Church, which was called the About numerous footpads prowled about here. On the fortification of London during the civil wars, in -, a battery and breastworks were erected at the south end of ; Captain John Eyre, of Cromwell's Regiment, superintended them. There were also fortifications at Mountmill (the plague-pit spot before mentioned), in Road; a large fort, with half bulwarks, at the upper pond, and a small redoubt near Pound. | |
What is now , Clerkenwell, was formerly an open piece of ground belonging to Priory, subsequently called Bocher or Butt | |
p.323 | Close, and afterwards Garden Alleys. The houses were chiefly built about , by Mr. Michell, a magistrate, who lived on the east side of . His house was afterwards occupied by Mr. Wildman, the owner of that unparalleled racehorse, Eclipse, who sold him to lucky Colonel O'Kelly for guineas. This horse, which was never beaten, and said to be a could run miles in minutes and seconds. |
The house No. , at the north-west corner of , was once the Tavern, a great house for sales and parochial meetings. It was here that industrious compiler, Mr. John Britton, was bound apprentice to Mr. Mendham, a wine-merchant, an occupation which nearly killed the young student. In snatches of time stolen from the fuming cellar, Britton used to visit Mr. Essex, a literary dial-painter, who kindly lent him useful books, and introduced him to his future partner in letters, Mr. Edward Brayley, and to Dr. Trusler and Dr. Towers, the literary celebrities of Clerkenwell. | |
This Dr. Trusler was a literary preacher, who, in , resided at No. , , and supported himself by selling MS. sermons to the idle clergy. His father had been proprietor of the fashionable and his sister made the seed and plum-cake for that establishment. Trusler, a clever, pushing man, was at an apothecary and then a curate. Cowper, in laughed at Trusler as He seems to have been an impudent projector, for when told by Dr. Terrick, Bishop of London, that he offered his clergy inducements to idleness, Trusler replied that he made a year by his manuscript sermons, and that, for a benefice of the same value he would willingly discontinue their sale. He afterwards started as printer, at , , and published endless ephemeral books on carving, law, declamation, farming, &c. separate works in all. He died in . In a Jew rag-merchant of this street died, worth . Early in the century an Arminian Jew named Simons lived here. He made some , but, ruined by his own and his son's extravagance, died at last in the parish workhouse. In an old lady named Austin died in this street (No. ), aged . | |
It was to a printer named Sleep, in , that Guy Fawkes, Johnson, used to come stealthily, in , to meet fellow-Romanists, Jesuits, and other disaffected persons. was a great place for carriers, especially those of Warwickshire and Nottingham, and the of their houses of call, was of Savage's favourite resorts, and there probably his sworn friend, Johnson, also repaired. The the and the were well enough, but some of these hostelries, in , seem to have been much frequented by thieves and other bad characters. | |
occupied, says Mr. Pinks, the exact area of the court of the ancient priory. In the reign of James II., a Father Corker built a convent here, which was pulled down by Protestant rioters, in , and several 'prentice boys were shot by the during the riots. The Little Square, as the north-western side is called, was formerly known as North's Court, from the builder, a relation of Lord Keeper North, in Charles II.'s time. Sir John North resided here in and . Dr. William Goddard, of the Society of Chemical Physicians, who lived in , as it was then called, was of those who had Government permission to sell remedies for the Great Plague. At the south-west corner of Jerusalem Passage stood the printingoffice of Mr. Dove, whose neat are still so often seen at old bookstalls. On the south side of the square is the Free-Thinking Christians' Meeting House. This body seceded from the Baptists, and built this chapel, about the year . They were at in , then in (now ), but were persecuted by Bishop Porteus. They have discussions on passages of the bible, but no public prayers or ceremonies whatever. | |
In Charles Howard, Earl of Carlisle, resided in the precincts of . This useful partisan of Charles II., ennobled at the Restoration, was our ambassador in Russia, Sweden, and Denmark, and was subsequently Governor of Jamaica. At the same period Arthur Capel, Earl of Essex, resided here, until . He was afterwards Viceroy of Ireland, and Lord of the Treasury. Persecuted for his doubtful share in the Rye House Plot, he killed himself in the Tower. Here also lived the Lord Townshend, of the Commoners deputed by Parliament to go over to Holland and beg Charles II. to return. Another eminent resident was a staunch Commonwealth man, Sir William Fenwicke, who died in . To these noble names we have to add that of Sir William Cordell, Master of the Rolls in the times of Mary and Elizabeth. He was Solicitor- General at the trial of Sir Thomas Wyatt. Queen Elizabeth visited him at his estate in Suffolk, when the Duke of Alencon sent to sue for her hand. | |
p.324 | |
The following epitaph on Sir William Cordell is thus translated by Fuller from the tomb in Long Melford Church, Suffolk:--
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The site of the birthplace of that clever but unprincipled demagogue, John Wilkes, is now a clock | |
manufactory. His father, Israel Wilkes, a rich distiller, lived in a handsome old, brick house, approached by a paved court with wide iron gates, north of the church. There had been a distillery here as early as . The old distiller who lived here, like a generous and intelligent country squire, drove a coach and horses, and cultivated the society of philosophers, men of letters, noblemen, and merchants. The house, which was pulled down about , was at time occupied by Colonel Magniac, who rendered himself famous by the automaton clocks he made for the Emperor of China. | |
Clerkenwell is noted for its clock-makers, and here armies of busy and intelligent men spend their lives in brass-casting, silvering dials, wheel-cutting, | |
p.325 | pinion-cutting, and glass-bending; and at No. , , Clerkenwell, is the British Horological Institute, for the cultivation of the science of horology, and its kindred arts and manufactures. At No. , is the office of the Goldsmiths' and Jewellers' Annuity Association, for relieving the decayed members of the trades. |
A special feature of this part of Clerkenwell is Burnet House (No. , formerly No. ), on the west side of . It was originally a noble mansion of storeys, says Mr. Pinks, and lighted in front by square-headed windows. The forecourt, upon which shops were built in , was a garden. The grand entrance, | |
now a poor bricked passage leading to Ledbury Place, which stands on the site of the bishop's old garden, was approached by several steps, and boasted a portico consisting of Tuscan columns supporting a moulded entablature. In course of time the house lost caste, till, in , it was shared between an undertaker and a hearth-rug maker, and in it harboured numerous families. The old staircases are gone, but in the windowless basement are the original kitchens and cellars. says Mr. Pinks, | |
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Bishop Burnet, the son of an Edinburgh lawyer, was born in . He was educated in Aberdeen; in he became professor of divinity at Glasgow, and when only years old was offered a Scottish bishopric, which he modestly declined. In , when he had already married a daughter of the Earl of Cassilis, he came to London, and was appointed preacher at the Rolls' Chapel by Sir Harbottle Grimstone, and soon after was chosen lecturer at St. Clement Danes. In appeared the folio volume of the chief work of his life, the Charles II. offered him the bishopric of Chichester, if he would only turn Tory, but Burnet, though vain, and fond of money, conscientiously refused, and even wrote a strong letter to the king, animadverting on his flagrant vices. At the execution of the good Lord William Russell, in , Burnet bravely attended him on the scaffold, and in consequence instantly lost the preachership at the Rolls and the lectureship of . | |
On the accession of James II. Burnet retired to the Continent, and travelled; but on the accession of the Prince of Orange was rewarded by the bishopric of Salisbury. According to some writers, Burnet was the very paragon of bishops. months every year he spent in traversing his diocese. He entertained his clergy, instead of taxing them with dinners, and helped the holders of poor benefices. He selected promising young men to study in , under his own eye; and was active in obtaining Queen Anne's Bounty, for the increasing small livings. | |
Burnet died at his Clerkenwell house in , and was buried near the communion-table of St. James's, Clerkenwell, the base Tory rabble flinging stones and dirt at the bishop's hearse. | |
In conversation Burnet is described as disagreeable, through a thick-skinned want of consideration. day, during Marlborough's disgrace and voluntary exile, Burnet, dining with the duchess, who was a reputed termagant, compared the duke to Belisarius. asked the duchess. replied the bishop, Burnet was opposed to the clergy enjoying a plurality of livings. A clergyman of his diocese once asked him if, on the authority of St. Bernard, he might hold livings. inquired Burnet. was the reply. said Burnet,
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Burnet was extravagantly fond of tobacco and writing, and to enjoy both at the same time, he perforated the brim of his large hat, and putting his long pipe through it, puffed and wrote, and wrote and puffed again. | |
How far Burnet's historical writings can be relied on is still uncertain. He was a wholesale Whig, and seems to have been a vain, credulous man, who, according to Lord Bathurst, listened too much to flying gossip. Swift, in his violent and ribald way, denounced Burnet as a common liar, but, on | |
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[extra_illustrations.2.327.1] the whole, we are inclined to think that he was only a violent party man, who, however, had a conscience, and tried his best to be honest. There is no doubt, however, from a letter discovered in the Napier charter chest, that on the discovery of the Rye House Plot, Burnet made many timid advances to the cruel and corrupt court. | |
In Burnet's house afterwards lived that remarkable man, [extra_illustrations.2.327.2] , the son of a poor bookseller in , who was born in the year . Failing as a bookseller himself, Towers turned dissenting minister. He compiled the volumes of and wrote articles for Kippis's In Towers was arrested for his connection with the Society for Constitutional Information, of which Sheridan, Erskine, and the Duke of Norfolk were members. He died at this house, in , in . [extra_illustrations.2.327.3] , the learned and pious author of the well-known bible commentary, frequently lodged at No. , , where his sons carried on a printing business. He was years passing his quarto volumes through the press. He died in , and was buried in the rear of the Chapel, near Wesley. The Wesleyan chapel next this house was erected in , at a cost of , by the transplanted congregation of Chapel. The old-established printing-offices of Messrs. Gilbert and Rivington were started in about , and Mr. William Rivington became a partner in . | |
was, in the Middle Ages, the chief approach to the Hospital of St. John from the city. About this quarter was fashionable, numbering Lord Berkeley, Lady Cheteley, Sir Michael Stanhope, Sir Anthony Barker, and Lord Chief Justice Keeling among its noble and influential inhabitants. This last disgrace to the Bench was the base judge who sent John Bunyan to prison for months, for being an upholder of conventicles. Some persons were once indicted before him for attending a conventicle; and, Retribution came at last to this unjust judge. He was cited to the bar of the in , for constantly vilifying Magna Charta, and only obtained mercy by the most abject submission. He retired to his house in Clerkenwell, disgraced, drew up a volume of divers cases in pleas of the Crown, and died in . | |
In this same memorable lane resided, in , that hard theological student, Matthew Poole, the compiler of the great biblical synopsis, in volumes folio. During the sham disclosures of Titus Oates, Poole's name was said to be down for immediate assassination. He fled to Holland in dismay, and died there the same year. | |
The in , a very historical house, was part of an old Elizabethan mansion, and the residence of Sir Thomas Forster, of the judges in the Court of Common Pleas, who died here in (James I.) The quaint sign of the house was The inn formerly boasted bay windows of stained glass, and in the tap-room a carved stone mantelpiece, with what was supposed to be the Forster arms in the centre. In the rooms still had panelled wainscoats, and in the tap-room hung a picture of a Dutch revel, by Heemskerke, an imitator of Brauwer. In later years the became a halting place for prisoners, on their way from Newgate to the New Prison, Clerkenwell. In of the celebrated Whig mug-houses was in ; and at the south-west corner of , just beyond the boundary-mark of the parish, stood the It bore the date , and in a niche of the gable-ended front was a bust of Queen Elizabeth, carved in stone. | |
In - (Charles I.) a secret Jesuits' College was discovered near Clerkenwell Church, in a house where the Earl of Marlborough had formerly lived. Sir John Coke, then Secretary of State, drew up a report of the discovery, which has been edited by Mr. Nichols, and re-published in the Sir John's narrative commences thus:
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Footnotes: [extra_illustrations.2.310.1] St. John's Gate [extra_illustrations.2.310.2] the Knights Hospitallers flourished in Clerkenwell [extra_illustrations.2.315.1] the priory of Clerkenwell [extra_illustrations.2.316.1] Sacheverell [extra_illustrations.2.316.2] St. John's, Clerkenwell [extra_illustrations.2.317.1] St. John's Gate [extra_illustrations.2.317.2] Dr. Johnson [extra_illustrations.2.317.3] Cave [extra_illustrations.2.317.5] Ten Covers and Titles, 1741-1881, all with St. John's Gate [extra_illustrations.2.320.1] a fragment of the first gate carved with scallop-shells and foliage [extra_illustrations.2.322.1] Hicks's Hall [extra_illustrations.2.322.2] Sir John Hawkins [extra_illustrations.2.322.3] the new hall [extra_illustrations.2.327.1] Dr. Adam Clarke and Ceylon Priests [extra_illustrations.2.327.2] Dr. Joseph Towers [extra_illustrations.2.327.3] Dr. Adam Clarke |