Old and New London, A Narrative of its History, its People and its Places. Illustrated with Numerous Engravings from the Most Authentic Sources. vol 3

Thornbury, Walter

1872-78

Chapter XXXVI: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued).

Chapter XXXVI: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued).

 

kai\ dh\ kai\ o( ta\ sussiti/a eu(rw\n pollw=n a)gaqw=n ai)/tiosAristotle.

The motto at the head of this chapter contains the opinion of of the sages of antiquity upon the benefits which accrue to man as a

social

being through the instrumentality of, the deviser of what would now-a-days be called

Clubs

and

Club Life,

but what the Athenians styled

Syssities,

a system, that is, of common tables for citizens. The same institution, under a different name, flourished, so we are told, even among the hardy youth of Sparta; and in fact, as man is not merely a gregarious but also a social animal, we may lay it down as a principle that wherever a refined and polished society has prevailed, its life has been attended by some means or other for bringing men into each other's company to discuss questions of social, political, or literary interest.: With these few remarks by way of preface, we pass to some further notice of the Club Life of Covent Garden and its neighbourhood.

The Club was the natural

outcome

of the coffee-houses, which, as we have stated in a previous volume, were introduced in St. Michael's Alley, , by a Turkey merchant in the time of the Commonwealth. In it was ordained by Act of Parliament that all coffee-houses should be licensed by the magistrates; and years later, as Mr. Cunningham tells us, Charles II. issued a royal edict to close up the coffee-houses as

nurseries of sedition.

The principle above quoted, however, asserted itself, and a few days afterwards the proclamation was cancelled.

Our modern celebrated clubs are founded upon eating and drinking, which are points therein most men agree, and in which the learned and illiterate, the dull and the airy, the philosopher and the buffoon, can all of them bear a part. The Kit-Cat itself--of which we have already spoken in our account of is said to have taken its original from the mutton pie. The Beef-steak and October Clubs were neither of them averse to eating and drinking, as is clear from their names.

[extra_illustrations.3.281.1]  as a boy had an innate love for the neighbourhood of Covent Garden, as instinct with human life. With Johnson, he knew that

the full tide of life was in the Strand;

and if so, it can scarcely be wondered at that, precocious child, he loved to sit on the shore and watch its waves breaking on its northern bank. To be taken out for a walk into the real town, especially if it were anywhere about Covent Garden or the Strand, perfectly entranced him with pleasure. But most of all he had a

profound attraction of repulsion

to . If he could only induce any soever to take him through Dials he was supremely happy.

Good heaven!

he would exclaim,

what wild visions of prodigies of wickedness, want, and beggary, arose in my mind out of that place!

On the same authority we learn that George Colman's

Broad Grins

seized his fancy very much, and that he was so impressed by its description of Covent Garden in the piece called , that he stole down to the Market by himself to compare it with the book.

He remembered,

says Mr. J. Forster,

as he said in telling me this, snuffing up the flavour of the faded cabbage-leaves as if it were the very breath of comic fiction.

But we must pass on from the domain of poetry into the prosaic region of fact.

p.282

 

In , Covent Garden (now absorbed into , of which it forms a continuation), facing the entrance to , was a tavern bearing the sign of

The Sheridan Knowles,

who is supposed by Mr. Larwood to have been the last literary celebrity to whom such an honour was paid. There the club of

Owls

used at time to hold its meetings. Sheridan Knowles was of its especial patrons and frequenters; and as it embraced many authors, wits, and composers, its members, it may well be imagined, were not owls of the

moping

sort, whom Gray commemorates in his

Elegy.

Every panel was inscribed with the name of some dead or living dramatist.

Now-a-days the carriages of the upper have no difficulty in finding their way to Old Drury or . The access to , however, was remarkably bad in old times. Walker, writing in

The Original,

in , says:--

Within memory, the principal carriage approach to Old

Drury Lane Theatre

was through that part of

Drury Lane

which is now a flagged foot-passage, and called

Drury Court

, just opposite the new church in the Strand.

 

On the south side of , in a narrow court leading out of , called Vinegar Yard, is a small tavern-or rather oyster and refreshment-rooms-dear to artists, who are, indeed, its chief customers, and, if we may trust the , enjoys a reputation of much the same kind as that which in former days attached to

Button's

or

Will's

Coffee-houses. The house rejoices in the fanciful name of

The Whistling Oyster,

and its sign is a weirdly and grotesquely comical representation of a gigantic oyster whistling a tune, and with an intensely humorous twinkle beaming in its eye. The shop was established by a Mr. Pearkes, in .

It appears,

says a writer in the

that about the year

1840

the proprietor of the house in question, which had then, as it has now, a great name for the superior excellence of its delicate little natives, heard a strange and unusual sound proceeding from

one

of the tubs in which the shell-fish lay piled in layers

one

over the other, placidly fattening upon oatmeal, and awaiting the inevitable advent of the remorseless knife. Mr. Pearkes, the landlord, listened, hardly at

first

believing his ears. There was, however, no doubt

about the matter.

One

of the oysters was distinctly whistling! or, at any rate, producing a sort of sifflement with its shell. It was not difficult to detect this phenomenal bivalve, and in a very few minutes he was triumphantly picked out from amongst his fellows, and put by himself in a spacious tub, with a bountiful supply of brine and meal, The news spread through the town, and for some days the fortunate Mr. Pearkes found his house besieged by curious crowds. That this Arion of oysters did really whistle, or do something very like whistling, is beyond all question. How he managed to do so is not upon record. Probably there existed somewhere in his shell a minute hole, such as those with which the stray oyster-shells upon the beach are usually riddled,

The Whistling Oyster.

and the creature, breathing in his own way by the due inspiration and expiration of water, forced a small jet through the tiny orifice each time that he drew his breath, and so made the strange noise that

first

caught the ear of his fortunate proprietor.

As for the jokes and good sayings to which the creature gave rise during its brief span of life, they would fairly fill a large folio; and readers of in its early volumes may even remember the famous picture of the

Whistling Oyster

--drawn, it is almost needless to add, from a purely imaginary point of view, and which those who have not been so fortunate as to have seen can behold reproduced in large upon the lamp which now marks the door of the

p.284

establishtion was that the said oyster

had been crossed in love, and now whistled to keep up appearances, with an idea of showing that it didn't care.

Thackeray used to declare that he was once actually in the shop when an American came in to see the phenomenon, as everybody else was doing, and, after hearing the talented mollusk go through its usual performance, strolled contemptuously out, declaring

it was nothing to an oyster he knew of in Massachusetts, which whistled Yankee Doodle right through, and followed its master about the house like a dog.

The subsequent fate of this interesting creature is a mystery --whether he was eaten alive, or ignominiously scalloped, or still more ignominiously handed over to the tender mercies of a cook in the neighbourhood to be served up in a bowl of oyster sauce as a relish to a hot beefsteak. In fact, like the

Lucy

of Wordsworth- ,

None can tell

When th' oyster ceased to be.

But it is somewhat singular that so.eccentric a creature should have existed in the middle of London, and in the middle of the century, and that no history of his career should be on record: still more strange, we think, that he should have been set up over his master's shop as a sign, and yet that, with all its notoriety, it should have escaped the notice of Mr. PeterCunningham, Mr. John Timbs, and even Mr. Jacob Larwood, the author of

The History of Sign-Boards.

If we may be allowed at this point to travel a little beyond the strict bounds of Covent Garden, it may be added that in , , there was a

Shakespeare Head,

the last haunt of the club of

Owls

--so called from the late hours they maintained. The tavern was kept at time by Mr. Mark Lemon, afterwards the genial editor of , assisted by his wife, formerly a singer of repute as Miss Romer. Mr. Larwood tells us that it was much frequented by actors, and that a club of used to meet on its floor. Not far off hence was

Johnson's Alamode Beef-house,

in Clare Court, close to , where Charles Dickens as a boy used to look in, whilst employed as a drudge at , carrying his daily supply of bread, and

purchasing a small plate of alamode beef to eat with it,

the waiter staring at the precocious boy eating his humble dinner, as if he had been a monster.

, strange to say, is not mentioned by Mr. P. Cunningham in his

Handbook of London,

usually so exhaustive. It leads from , in a straight line with , across the Strand to , and was newly made as an approach to that bridge in -. It follows as nearly as possible the line of what was once the boundary-wall separating the grounds of Exeter House from those of Wimbledon House, described in a previous chapter.

, to which we have alluded in a former chapter, runs out of to the west, parallel with the Strand. In this street are the offices of the Dramatic, Equestrian, and Musical Sick Fund Association. This institution was founded in , in order to assist members of these professions in sickness and in distress, and to help them to obtain employment. Here, too, is the office of the Royal Dramatic College, which was established in . The object of this institution is to furnish homes and maintenance for aged and infirm actors and actresses. The

College,

as this cluster of homes is called, is situated at Maybury, near Woking, Surrey.

As we walk down the rather steep incline which leads across the Strand to and , we pass on the right and left of us. In this street, as we remarked in a previous chapter, Dr. Johnson lodged when he came to town from Lichfield, and it was during his residence here that he commenced his condensation of the speeches in Parliament for the . At the corner of was the office for the publication of , and as such it was the constant haunt of Charles Dickens in his later years. Here is now published the founded and edited by Dr. W. H. Russell. In are the publishing-offices of the and , edited by Dr. Doran; the , the , the , the , the and newspapers, as also those of the (already described), the , the , and the . It must have been as nearly as possible on this spot that Dr. Johnson offended Dr. Percy, author of

Reliques of Ancient Poetry,

by parodying the style of that charming and simple tale,

The Hermit of Warkworth,

thus:--

I put my hat upon my head, And walked into the Strand, And there I met an other man With his hat in his hand.

I must freely declare,

says Nichols in his

Literary and Miscellaneous Memoirs,

with all my partiality for Johnson, that I think Dr. Percy had very great cause to take offence at a man who, by a ludicrous parody on a stanza of his Hermit, had rendered him contemptible. It

was urged that Johnson meant only to attack the metre; but he certainly turned the whole poem into ridicule. Mr. Garrick soon afterwards asked me,

adds Nichols,

in a postscript to

one

of his letters, whether I had seen Johnson's criticism on the

Hermit

? it is already, said he, over half the town.

On the eastern side of the street, occupying the corner of , is a handsome and substantial building of the Italian order, ambitiously styled

The Victoria Club.

It has nothing, however, of royalty or aristocracy about it, and is haunted by -rate betting men only. It was built about the year ; and some idea may be formed of the contrast between its members and the literary society which used to meet in the coffee-houses of the neighbourhood less than a century before it, when we add that its highly intelligent committee and secretary are ignorant, or profess to be ignorant, of its brief and unimportant history, and even of the name of its founder!

In , too, are the offices of the Royal General Theatrical Fund. This institution was founded, in , for the relief of

poor actors, actresses, singers, pantomimists, and dancers,

to whom annuities of from to per annum are granted; aid is likewise afforded to the widows and orphans of members.

About half-way down , and opening into , is . Here Mr. Henry G. Bohn, of the most original and enterprising of modern publishers, carried on business from about the year down to , when he retired, transferring his stock to Messrs. Bell and Daldy. He was of the who commenced the republication of standard works in a cheap form in

libraries

of various kinds. Those published under his auspices amounted to about volumes, and the cost of their production could not have been much short of . In was the literary auction-room of Mr. Samuel Baker, in the middle of the last century, now represented by Messrs. Sotheby, Wilkinson, and Hodge, of whom we shall have to speak when we reach the southern part of . Here, too, was the

Fleece

Inn--a tavern, if we may believe Aubrey,

very unfortunate for homicides,

having happened within its walls in his time. It was afterwards turned into a private house, its former master having hanged himself! It is as well, perhaps, in this case that the timbers and walls of houses are not usually gifted with speech, or it would have been hard for its owner to find another tenant.

Another tavern in this street at time enjoyed a different reputation to that of the

Fleece.

This house bore the sign of the

Turk's Head,

which was admirably painted by Cotton, and was much admired. The tavern had among its usual frequenters Bernard Lintot, the bookseller of the Strand, the rival of Tonson, and the

huge Lintot

of Pope's

Dunciad,

who sang

Molly Mag

as none before or after him could sing it.

In , about -, was a theatrical club which met of an evening at

Wright's Coffeehouse.

Foote, Holland, Powell, and many of the leading actors of the time were members; and Mr. Cradock, in his

Literary and Miscellaneous Memoirs,

tells us how he went thither evening with a young friend from the country, named Farmer, who had written on the subject of Shakespeare, and who particularly wanted to see Foote. The latter was a much kinder and more genial personage, as is clear from Cradock's narrative, than Dr. Johnson would have been if placed in a similar position.

Luckily an immediate opportunity occurred to me of introducing him, and of interesting the great satirist in his favour. Foote gravely and very handsomely said, I shall feel a particular pleasure in paying every attention to him as a friend of yours; he is a man of talents, and I am well acquainted with his excellent Essay on the Learning of Shakespeare; and indeed he kept his word; for while Farmer stayed he did everything in his power to make himself agreeable and entertaining.

Foote was a man of great natural and ready wit, as would appear from the following anecdotes, which we owe to the same source :--

Mr. Howard happening to hint something about printing a

second

edition of his Thoughts and Maxims, Foote replied directly, with a sneer, Right, sir

Second

Thoughts are often best. In like manner, when a gentleman, with whom he was more intimate, only quoted in jest some trifling circumstance about a game-leg, Foote maliciously replied, Pray, sir, make no allusion to my weakest part; did I ever attack your head? In fact, if the truth must be told, Foote at times spared neither friend nor foe. He had little regard for the feelings of others; if he thought of a witty thing that would create laughter, he said it. If Foote ever had a serious regard for any

one

, it was for Holland; yet at his death, or rather, indeed, after his funeral, he violated all decency concerning him. Holland was the son of a baker at Hampton, and on the stage was a close imitator of Garrick, who had such a respect for him that he played the Ghost to his Hamlet merely to serve him at his benefit. Holland died rather young, and Foote attended as

one

of the mourners. He was really grieved: and the friend from whom I had the account declared that his eyes were swollen with tears; yet when the gentleman said to him, afterwards, So, Foote, you have been attending the funeral of your dear friend Holland? the latter instantly replied, Yes, we have just shoved the little baker into his oven!

We have said that Covent Garden, in all probability, served not only as a monastic garden, but also as a burial-place for the members of the abbey of at . This supposition is confirmed by a fact mentioned by Mr. J. H. Jesse in his

London,

that

stone coffins and other relics of the dead have from time to time been discovered behind the houses on the north side of

York Street

.

As we cross the Strand, we see, a door or off us, on the left, the shop which once was Tonson's, and afterwards passed to Millar, and from him to Alderman Cadell, and about which Sir N. W. Wraxall tells us a good story, on Cadell's authority. Millar gave Fielding for the copyright of his

Amelia

--a high price at that time. A literary friend having expressed an opinion that it was not worth anything like that amount, and that he had better get rid of it as soon as possible, Millar resorted to a capital

trick of the trade.

At his

trade sale

he said to his brother bibliopoles that he had several works to put up, for which he would be glad if they would bid, but that every copy of

Amelia

was already bespoke.

This manoeuvre had its effect,

says Wraxall;

all the booksellers were anxious to get their names put down for copies of it, and the edition, though a very large

one

, was immediately sold.

In that part of which joins the Strand to , on the west side, on the site of part of the old Savoy, are the wellknown rooms of Messrs. Sotheby, Wilkinson, and Hodge, auctioneers of literary property. The business was established by Mr. Samuel Baker, in , as stated above, in . years later he was joined by Mr. G. Leigh, who appears to have conducted the business singlehanded from downto , when the name of Sotheby appears as his partner. In the firm was reinforced by the addition of Mr. Sotheby's son, and in the firm was styled

Leigh and S. Sotheby,

their rooms being removed to

No.

145

, the Strand.

In the name of Leigh has disappeared from the title-pages of the sale catalogues, which mention the name of only

Mr. Sotheby.

From down to Mr. Sotheby carried on the business at , , since which time the establishment has gone on steadily progressing. Among the most celebrated sales which have been entrusted to this firm in the last and present centuries have been the libraries or other collections of Prince Talleyrand, Professor Porson, Bishop Horsley, Joseph Addison, W. S. Rose, John Gifford, E. Malone, Dr. Hawtrey, Sir William Tite, the Emperor Napoleon, the Chevalier d'Eon, Dr. Charles Burney, the Marquis of Lansdowne, the Earl of Bute, Sir William Dolben, Mr. H. T. Hope, the Earl of Halifax, Sir M. Sykes, Mr. John Nichols, Sir Samuel Romilly, Sir William Tite, and Mr. J. Gough Nichols. It may interest our readers to learn that the volumes of catalogues of sales conducted by this firm are regularly deposited in the , where about volumes, all carefully priced, may be seen, giving a history of literary properties sold from down to , and about more carrying the same record down to nearly the present day.

The western frontage of , nearly opposite to Messrs. Sotheby's auction-rooms, was erected in the year , from the designs of Mr. Pennethorne, and is considered of the most successful facades in modern London. In this wing of are the offices of the Inland Revenue Department. On the opposite side of the street, standing somewhat back from the roadway, is a terrace of large houses, called , as standing on ground belonging to the Duchy of Lancaster. They are mostly cut up into chambers for artists, engineers, and lawyers. of them is used as the chief office of the London Necropolis Company, which owns the large cemetery near Woking station. In another, Mr. Samuel Carter Hall for many years edited the

Passing this terrace, we are at the northern end of , at full liberty to find our way down the steps to , where, strictly speaking, judging from the meaning of the term, we might have expected to find the

Strand

itself, and where we certainly should have found it in very

Old London

--say the London of a years ago. Thence we pass on to the Thames itself, to which our next chapters shall be devoted.

 
 
Footnotes:

[extra_illustrations.3.281.1] Charles Dickens

[] Little Will--Turks Head Coffee House

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 Title Page
 Introduction
 Chapter I: Westminster--General Remarks-Its Boundaries and History
 Chapter II: Butcher's Row--Church of St. Clement Danes
 Chapter III: St. Clement Danes (continued):--The Law Courts
 Chapter IV: St. Clement Danes (continued)--A Walk Round the Parish
 Chapter V: The Strand (Northern Tributaries)--Clement's Inn, New Inn, Lyon's Inn, etc
 Chapter VI: The Strand (Northern Tributaries)--Drury Lane and Clare Markets
 Chapter VII: Lincoln's Inn Fields
 Chapter VIII: Lincoln's Inn
 Chapter IX: The Strand--Introductory and Historical
 Chapter X: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries
 Chapter XI: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries (continued)
 Chapter XII: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries (continued)
 Chapter XIII: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries (continued)
 Chapter XIV: St. Mary-Le-Strand, The Maypole, &c
 Chapter XV: Somerset House and King's College
 Chapter XVI: The Savoy
 Chapter XVII: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries (continued)
 Chapter XVIII: The Strand:--Northern Tributaries
 Chapter XIX: Charing Cross, The Railway Stations, and Old Hungerford Market
 Chapter XX: Northumberland House and its Associations
 Chapter XXI: Trafalgar Square, National Gallery, &c
 Chapter XXII: St. Martin's-in-the-Fields
 Chapter XXIII: Leicester Square and its Neighbourhood
 Chapter XXIV: Soho
 Chapter XXV: Soho Square and its Neighbourhood
 Chapter XXVI: St. Giles's in the Fields
 Chapter XXVII: The Parish of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields (continued)
 Chapter XXVIII: Drury Lane theatre
 Chapter XXIX: Covent Garden Theatre
 Chapter XXX: Covent Garden:--General Description
 Chapter XXXI: Covent Garden (continued)
 Chapter XXXII: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXIII: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXIV: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXV: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXVI: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXVII: The River Thames
 Chapter XXXVIII: The River Thames (continued)
 Chapter XXXIX: The River Thames (continued)
 Chapter LX: The Victoria Embankment
 Chapter XLI: Scotland Yard and the Metropolitan Police
 Chapter XLII: Whitehall--Historical Remarks
 Chapter XLIII: Whitehall and its Historical Associations (continued)
 Chapter XLIV: Whitehall and its Historical Associations (continued)
 Chapter XLV: Whitehall--The Buildings Described
 Chapter XLVI: Whitehall, and its Historical Reminiscences (continued)
 Chapter XLVII: Whitehall:--Its Precinct, Gardens, &c
 Chapter XLVIII: Whitehall--The Western Side
 Chapter XLIX: Westminster Abbey--Its Early History
 Chapter L: Westminster Abbey--Historical Ceremonies
 Chapter LI: Westminster Abbey--A Survey of the Building
 Chapter LII: Westminster Abbey--The Choir, Transepts, &c.
 Chapter LIII: Westminster Abbey--The Chapels and Royal Tombs.
 Chapter LIV: Westminster Abbey--The Chapter House, Cloisters, Deanery, &c.
 Chapter LV: Westminster School
 Chapter LVI: Westminster School (continued)
 Chapter LVII: The Sanctuary and the Almonry
 Chapter LVIII: The Royal Palace of Westminster
 Chapter LIX: The New Palace, Westminster
 Chapter LX: Historical Reminiscences of the Houses of Parliament
 Chapter LXI: New Palace Yard and Westminster Hall
 Chapter LXII: Westminster Hall--Incidents in its Past History
 Chapter LXIII: The Law Courts and Old Palace Yard
 Chapter LXIV:Westminster--St. Margaret's Church