Old and New London, A Narrative of its History, its People and its Places. Illustrated with Numerous Engravings from the Most Authentic Sources. vol 3

Thornbury, Walter

1872-78

Chapter X: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries.

Chapter X: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries.

 

Westward the tide of Empire makes its way.

Extending from as far as the present was formerly an Outer Temple, which, with the Inner and Middle Temples, constituted the residences of the Knights Templars. This space is now for the most part occupied by the houses in Thanet Place, Palsgrave Place (both ), and Devereux Court.

The of these-Thanet Place-stands as nearly as possible on the site of the old

Rose Tavern,

a place of rendezvous for lawyers and wits in the last century. The place consists of houses. It was named after the Earls of Thanet, to whom it belonged, and from whom the property passed, in , by purchase to John Cooke, a bookseller in . The

Rose Tavern

is described by Strype as being in his day a

well-customed house, with good convenience of rooms and a good garden;

and T. Fairchild, in his

City Gardener,

in , tells us that in this garden was

a vine that covers an arbour where the sun very rarely comes, and has had ripe grapes upon it.

It makes our mouths water as we come out of on a hot summer afternoon, with the thermometer at in the shade, to hear of grapes growing in the open air close to our left hand even a century and a half ago. The

painted room

at this tavern is mentioned in Horace Walpole's

Letters,

but it has long since passed out of memory.

Palsgrave Place, a narrow paved court, about half-way between and , is named after the Palsgrave Frederick, King of Bohemia, who in married the Princess Elizabeth, daughter of James I. Close by was the tavern known as the

Palsgrave's Head,

where Prior and Montague make the

country mouse and city mouse

bilk the hackney coachman :

But now at Piccadilly they arrive,

And taking coach towards Temple Bar they drive;

But at St. Clement's Church cut out the back,

And slipping through the Palsgrave bilk't poor hack.

Some of the taverns of the century appear to have been established over the shops in this locality; for in , according to Mr. Diprose's

Account of St. Clement Danes,

a goldsmith named Crutch carried on business under this tavern, and most of the shops were marked by signs. William Faithorne, an engraver of merit, lived at the sign of the Ship, next to the Drake, opposite to the Palsgrave's Head Tavern, without

Temple Bar

.

Another house of entertainment or tavern in this neighbourhood, much frequented

p.64

by members of Parliament and City gallants of the century, was

Heycock's Ordinary.

Here usually dined [extra_illustrations.3.64.1] , some time member for Hull, and famous in his day as a wit and satirist; and here, according to the above authority, he administered a severe castiga- Lion to certain members of the House, known to be in the pay of the Crown, for ensuring the subserviency of their votes.

Having ate heartily of boiled beef, with some roasted pigeons and asparagus, he drank his pint of port, and on the coming in of the reckoning took a piece of money out of his pocket, held it between his finger and thumb, and addressing his venal associates, said, Gentlemen, who would lett himself out for hire while he can have such a dinner for half-a-crown?

Another

scene,

in which Andrew Marvell appears as the principal character, may possibly have taken place here. The anecdote has been often related, but will bear repetition:--

The borough of Hull, in the reign of Charles II., chose Andrew Marvell, a young gentleman of little or no fortune, and maintained him in London for the service of the public. His understanding, integrity, and spirit were dreadful to the then infamous administration. Persuaded that he would be theirs for properly asking, they sent his old schoolfellow, the Lord Treasurer Danby, to renew acquaintance with him in his garret. At parting, the Lord Treasurer, out of pure affection, slipped into his hand an order upon the Treasury for

£ 1,000

, and then went to his chariot. Marvell, looking at the paper, called out after the Treasurer, My lord, I request another moment. They went up again to the garret, and Jack, the servant-boy, was called. Jack, child, what had I for dinner yesterday? Don't you remember, sir? You had the little shoulder of mutton that you ordered me to bring from a woman in the market. Very right, child. What have I for dinner to-day? Don't you know, sir, that you bid me lay the bladebone to broil? 'Tis so; very right, child; go away. My lord, do you hear that? Andrew Marvell's dinner is provided. There's your piece of paper; I want it not. I know the sort of kindness you intended. I live here to serve my constituents. The ministry may seek men for their purpose; I am not

one

.

The house No. , Strand, now a branch of the London and Joint-Stock Bank, but which till lately was occupied as a bank by Messrs. Strahan (originally Snow), Paul, and Bates, had a history approaching in venerable antiquity to that of its neighbour, the bank of Messrs. Child. The name of the firm was originally Snow and Walton, who carried on business here as pawnbrokers during the Commonwealth, their house bearing the sign of the

Golden Anchor.

Their ledgers went back as far as the year . There was a book in the possession of the late members of the firm, showing that they were established as bankers in the reign of Charles II., when their accounts were kept in decimals. The firm came to a disgraceful and disastrous end in , the leading partners of it being tried criminally and convicted of misappropriating the moneys of their customers, for which they were sentenced to various terms of imprisonment, a climax which offers a striking contrast to the reputation enjoyed by the original owner and founder of the house, a wealthy goldsmith named Snow, whose memory is thus immortalised by Gay:--

Disdain not, Snow, my humble verse to hear;

Stick thy black pen awhile behind thy ear.

O thou whose penetrative wisdom found

The South Sea rocks and shelves when thousands drown'd,

When Credit sank and Commerce gasping lay,

Thou stood'st, nor sent one bill unpaid away;

When not a guinea clinked on Martin's boards,

And Atwel's self was drained of all his hoards,

Thou stood'st--an Indian king in size and hue-

Thy unexhausted store was our Peru.

Adjoining the above house, and opposite to, the spot where formerly stood Butcher's Row, are the banking-house and tea-warehouse of Messrs. Twining and Co. The latter was founded about the year by the great-great-grandfather of the present partners, Mr. Thomas Twining, whose portrait, painted by Hogarth,

Kit-cat size,

hangs in the back parlour of the establishment. The house, or houses--for they really are , though made practically by internal communicationstand between the Strand and the east side of Devereux Court. The original depot for the sale of the then scarce and fashionable beverage, tea, stood at the south-west angle of the present premises, on the site of what had been

Tom's Coffee House,

directly opposite the

Grecian.

A peep into the old books of the firm shows that in the reign of Queen Anne tea was sold by the few houses then in the trade at various prices between and per pound, and that ladies of fashion used to flock to Messrs. Twining's house in Devereux Court, in order to sip the enlivening beverage in very small china cups, for which they paid their shillings, much as nowa-days they sit in their carriages eating ices at the door of Gunter's in on hot days. in June. The bank was gradually engrafted by Messrs. Twining on the old business, after it had been carried on for more than a century from sire

p.65

[extra_illustrations.3.65.1] 
to son, and may be said, as a separate institution, to date from the commercial panic of . It is, perhaps, worthy of note that a member of this family, which has been so long and so honourably connected with commerce, was that elegant and accomplished scholar, the Rev. Thomas Twining, the translator of Aristotle's

Poetics

in the days of our grandfathers.

Separated from the above-mentioned establishment by the entrance to Devereux Court is

George's Hotel,

which stands on the site of what was once

George's Coffee House

-- which, though not equal in reputation to

Tom's

or the

Grecian,

had associations of its own. It is mentioned by Foote in his

Life of Murray,

as a place where the wits of the town in would assemble in the evening; and among its frequenters was the poet Shenstone-he of the

Leasowes

who tells us that for a subscription of a shilling he could read all the lesser pamphlets of the day. It ceased to be known as a coffee-house about the year , and has since been used as an hotel.

When the new sewers were being constructed in the Strand, a little to the east of , in , the workmen found a stone bridge of a single arch, strongly built, and covered to some depth with rubbish and soil. A doubt arises as to whether this could have been an arch turned over a gully or ditch at a time when the fields along the north side of the Strand were furrowed with water-courses, or whether it was actually the passed by the lords and others who went from London to attend the Parliament at in the reign of Edward III., and the repair of which that monarch called upon the Templars to effect. In the absence of architectural details, or at least a sketch of the bridge, we shall not attempt to decide so knotty a point.

Devereux Court, into which we now pass, is famous as having been the of of the most celebrated coffee-houses-

Tom's

and the

Grecian.

It takes its name from Robert Devereux, Earl of Essex, the Parliamentary general, who was born in Essex House (part of which stood upon this spot), and of whom we shall have more to say presently.

Of

Tom's

coffee-house we know that Akenside was a frequenter in the winter evenings, and that Pope here addresses a letter to Fortescue, the

counsel learned in the law.

Another of its frequenters was Dr. Birch, the antiquary.

The

Grecian,

as we know, was frequented by a goodly company of wits and poets, including Addison, Steele, and Goldsmith, and derived its name from having been kept originally by a Greek from the Levant. As far back as -, says Mr. Diprose,

he advertised his Turkey coffeeberry, chocolate, sherbet, and tea, good and cheap; and announced his readiness to give gratuitous instruction in the art of preparing the said liquors.

And Steele, in the number of the supplies us with an idea of the character of this house, when he tells the public that he

shall date all gallantry from White's, all poetry from Wills's, all foreign and domestic news from St. James's, and all learned articles from the Grecian.

The existence of the rival coffeehouses gave a high literary character to Devereux Court in the and eighteenth centuries. The face of the

Spectator

himself was very well known at the

Grecian,

adjacent to the law,

and the house was frequented by the Irish and Lancashire Templars, and also by Fellows of the Royal Society. It was Foote's morning lounge, and in a snug and cozy corner here Goldsmith occasionally

wound up his shoemaker's holiday with supper.

In the (No. ) Addison describes his feelings at seeing the young Templars lounge at the

Grecian

early in the morning, either dressed for , and with the assumed air of men with heavy business engagements, or else in gay caps and slippers, as though wishing to display their indolence.

Dr. King relates how hot-blooded young gentlemen quarrelled evening at the

Grecian

upon the appropriate subject of the accent of a certain Greek word, and not being able to adjust the matter amicably, stepped out into the court and settled it with their swords, the falling by the other's hand. The topographer of Leeds, Ralph Thoresby, describes how on occasion, after a meeting of the Royal Society, he came back to the

Grecian,

and spent the rest of the evening there in the company of [extra_illustrations.3.65.2] .

At the

Grecian

[extra_illustrations.3.66.1]  spent such of his winter evenings as he could spare from

Tom's,

as we learn from Sir John Hawkins's

Life of Johnson,

entangled in disputes and altercations, chiefly on subjects of literature and politics, that fixed on his character the stamp of haughtiness and self-conceit, and drew him into disagreeable situations.

The

Grecian

ceased to be a coffee-house or tavern about the year , and shortly afterwards it was converted into

chambers.

A part of the building, however, now known as

Eldon Chambers,

is used as a refreshment-bar. High up, on the front of this house, is a bust of Lord Essex, and beneath it the inscription,

This is Devereux Court,

1676

.

p.66

 
 
 
Footnotes:

[extra_illustrations.3.64.1] Andrew Marvell

[extra_illustrations.3.65.1] Mr. Foote and Mr. Weston in characters

[extra_illustrations.3.65.2] Sir Isaac Newton

[extra_illustrations.3.66.1] Akenside

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 Title Page
 Introduction
 Chapter I: Westminster--General Remarks-Its Boundaries and History
 Chapter II: Butcher's Row--Church of St. Clement Danes
 Chapter III: St. Clement Danes (continued):--The Law Courts
 Chapter IV: St. Clement Danes (continued)--A Walk Round the Parish
 Chapter V: The Strand (Northern Tributaries)--Clement's Inn, New Inn, Lyon's Inn, etc
 Chapter VI: The Strand (Northern Tributaries)--Drury Lane and Clare Markets
 Chapter VII: Lincoln's Inn Fields
 Chapter VIII: Lincoln's Inn
 Chapter IX: The Strand--Introductory and Historical
 Chapter X: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries
 Chapter XI: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries (continued)
 Chapter XII: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries (continued)
 Chapter XIII: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries (continued)
 Chapter XIV: St. Mary-Le-Strand, The Maypole, &c
 Chapter XV: Somerset House and King's College
 Chapter XVI: The Savoy
 Chapter XVII: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries (continued)
 Chapter XVIII: The Strand:--Northern Tributaries
 Chapter XIX: Charing Cross, The Railway Stations, and Old Hungerford Market
 Chapter XX: Northumberland House and its Associations
 Chapter XXI: Trafalgar Square, National Gallery, &c
 Chapter XXII: St. Martin's-in-the-Fields
 Chapter XXIII: Leicester Square and its Neighbourhood
 Chapter XXIV: Soho
 Chapter XXV: Soho Square and its Neighbourhood
 Chapter XXVI: St. Giles's in the Fields
 Chapter XXVII: The Parish of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields (continued)
 Chapter XXVIII: Drury Lane theatre
 Chapter XXIX: Covent Garden Theatre
 Chapter XXX: Covent Garden:--General Description
 Chapter XXXI: Covent Garden (continued)
 Chapter XXXII: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXIII: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXIV: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXV: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXVI: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXVII: The River Thames
 Chapter XXXVIII: The River Thames (continued)
 Chapter XXXIX: The River Thames (continued)
 Chapter LX: The Victoria Embankment
 Chapter XLI: Scotland Yard and the Metropolitan Police
 Chapter XLII: Whitehall--Historical Remarks
 Chapter XLIII: Whitehall and its Historical Associations (continued)
 Chapter XLIV: Whitehall and its Historical Associations (continued)
 Chapter XLV: Whitehall--The Buildings Described
 Chapter XLVI: Whitehall, and its Historical Reminiscences (continued)
 Chapter XLVII: Whitehall:--Its Precinct, Gardens, &c
 Chapter XLVIII: Whitehall--The Western Side
 Chapter XLIX: Westminster Abbey--Its Early History
 Chapter L: Westminster Abbey--Historical Ceremonies
 Chapter LI: Westminster Abbey--A Survey of the Building
 Chapter LII: Westminster Abbey--The Choir, Transepts, &c.
 Chapter LIII: Westminster Abbey--The Chapels and Royal Tombs.
 Chapter LIV: Westminster Abbey--The Chapter House, Cloisters, Deanery, &c.
 Chapter LV: Westminster School
 Chapter LVI: Westminster School (continued)
 Chapter LVII: The Sanctuary and the Almonry
 Chapter LVIII: The Royal Palace of Westminster
 Chapter LIX: The New Palace, Westminster
 Chapter LX: Historical Reminiscences of the Houses of Parliament
 Chapter LXI: New Palace Yard and Westminster Hall
 Chapter LXII: Westminster Hall--Incidents in its Past History
 Chapter LXIII: The Law Courts and Old Palace Yard
 Chapter LXIV:Westminster--St. Margaret's Church