Old and New London, A Narrative of its History, its People and its Places. Illustrated with Numerous Engravings from the Most Authentic Sources. vol 3

Thornbury, Walter

1872-78

Chapter XXVII: The Parish of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields (continued).

Chapter XXVII: The Parish of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields (continued).

 

Rure ego viventem, tu dicis in urbe beatum.--Horace.

The parish of St. Giles, with its nests of close and narrow alleys and courts inhabited by the lowest class of Irish costermongers, has passed into a byword as the synonym of filth and squalor. And although has been carried straight through the middle of the worst part of its slums-

the Rookery

--yet, especially on the south side, there still are streets which demand to be swept away in the interest of health and cleanliness. And yet, as Peter Cunningham remarks,

the parish could show its pound, its cage, its round-house and watch-house, its stocks, its whip-

Pavement Beggars

Pavement Beggar

ping-post, and at

one

time its gallows,

as our readers are already aware. The locality, nevertheless, is not without its historic or romantic interest, for

a redoubt with

two

flanks near

St. Giles's

Pound,

and a small fort at the east end of Tyburn Road, are mentioned among the forts ordered to be raised round London by the Parliament in .

According to the

London Spy

(), was in the days of the Georges a most wealthy and populous parish, and

said to furnish his Majesty's plantations in America with more souls than all the rest of the kingdom besides.

It was also remarkable for producing the

Jack Ketches

of that day, as well as a fair proportion of the malefactors who suffered at Tyburn. The same authority quotes an old saying-

St. Giles' breed,

Better hang than seed.

They were a noisy and riotous lot, fond of street brawls, equally

fat, ragged and saucy ;

and the courts abounded in, pedlars, fish-women, newscriers, and corn-cutters.

Parton, in his

History of

St. Giles's

,

tells us that in remote times this parish

contained no greater proportion of poor than other parishes of a similar extent and population; the introduction of Irish mendicants, and other poor of that description, for which it afterwards became so noted, is not to be traced further back than the time of Queen Elizabeth.

Strype, too, remarks that

when London began to increase in population, there was observed to be a confluence here out of the countries of such persons as were of the poorer sorts of trades and occupations; who, because they could not exercise them within the jurisdiction of the City, followed them within the suburbs; therefore the Queen, as well as forbidding the further erection of new buildings, ordered all persons within

three

miles of the gates of the City to forbear from letting or settling, or suffering any more than

one

family only to be placed in

one

house.

In it was ordered that,

to prevent the great influx of poor people into this parish, the beadles do present every fortnight, on the Sunday, the names of all

new-comers, under-setters, inmates, divided tenements, persons that have families in cellars

, and other abuses.

This,

says Parton,

is the

first

mention of

cellars

as places of residence, and for which the parish afterwards became so noted that the expression of a cellar in

St. Giles's

used to designate the lowest poverty, became afterwards proverbial, and is still used, though most of these subterranean dwellings are now gone.

Speaking of the beggars of , we should not omit to mention Simon Edy, who lived there in the middle of the last century.

Old Simon,

as he was commonly named, lodged, with his dog, under a staircase in an old shattered building called

Rat's Castle,

in Dyot Street. He is thus described by Mr. J. T. Smith in his

Book for a Rainy Day:

--

He wore several hats, and suffered his beard to grow, which was of a dirty yellowwhite. Upon his fingers were numerous brass rings. He had several waistcoats, and as many coats, increasing in size, so that he was enabled by the extent of the uppermost garment to cover the greater part of the bundles, containing rags of various colours, and distinct parcels with which he was girded about, consisting of books, canisters containing bread, cheese, and other articles of food; matches, a tinder-box, and meat for his dog; cuttings of curious events from old newspapers, scraps from Foxe's Book of Martyrs, and

three

or

four

dogs'-eared and greasy-thumbed numbers of the

Gentleman's Magazine

. From these and suchlike productions he gained a great part of the information with which he sometimes entertained those persons who stopped to look at him.

This eccentric character (perhaps the original of the

Simple Simon

of our nursery rhymes) stood for many years at the gate of , and a portrait of him is to be found in Mr. J. T. Smith's well-known book,

Sketches from the London Streets.

is described by Strype as

a fair, broad street, with good houses, and well inhabited by gentry.

Near it is Lloyd's Court or Alley, to which Hogarth has given a celebrity by making it and the adjoining Hog Lane the scene of of his series of sketches,

The

Four

Times of the Day.

Lord Wharton's residence stood at the corner of this thoroughfare.

In died, in , Michael Mohun, the actor. The street, and the adjoining of Belton (now , derived their names from Sir John Brownlow, Bart., of Belton, whose name occurs constantly in the parish ratebooks as a resident in the reign of Charles II. His town mansion and gardens stood on this site, but the former was pulled down before the year . The noble estate of Belton, in Lincolnshire, passed by marriage to the Custs, the head of whom is now Earl Brownlow.

At No. , (formerly Old ), in the rear of the premises occupied by Messrs. King, ironmongers, is an ancient bath, said

p.208

by local tradition to have been used by Queen Anne, which for the most part has escaped the notice of antiquaries. It was fed by a fine spring of clear water, which was said to have medicinal qualities. Whether it was the favourite bagnio of Queen Anne or not, it certainly is a curious relic of other days, though shorn of its ancient glories. Descending a dark and narrow staircase, we find ourselves in a low apartment, about or feet square, its walls inlaid with Dutch tiles, white, with blue patterns-clearly of the century. It once had

a lofty French groined dome roof,

but the upper part of the chamber is now cut off by a modern flooring, and formed into a blacksmith's forge.

In a

View of Old London

published in , the bath is said to be

supplied direct from the spring, which is perpetually running; the water,

adds the writer,

is always fresh, and is much used in the neighbourhood, where it is considered a good cure for rheumatism and other disorders. It is a powerful tonic, and evidently contains a considerable trace of iron.

Some of the Dutch tiles have been taken away, and the lower part is now filled with lumber and rubbish instead of clear water, and the spring no longer flows, in this respect presenting a marked contrast to the

old Roman bath

of which we have spoken in our account of the Strand.

There are or buildings in deserving of mention, not only on account of their architectural merits, but for their beneficial effects on the humble class of the inhabitants for whom they are specially intended. The of these is the British Lying--in Hospital, a picturesque Elizabethan structure, erected in , with all the improvements of modern science. This institution was originally established in , in , but was removed in the above year to its new quarters. It is the oldest lying--in hospital in London. It is solely for affording medical and surgical treatment to married women, who are either admitted into the hospital as in-patients, or are attended at their own homes. Down to the year upwards of in-patients have received the benefits of this institution. The hospital is supported by voluntary subscriptions and donations. The number of patients annually admitted is about , and the yearly receipts amount to about .

Then there are the Baths and Washhouses, a handsome edifice of Italian architecture, erected in , not far from the site of Queen Anne's Bath; and close by is , a large building of Early English architecture, erected in .

In , between and , and nearly in a line with , are chapels side by side. The is the French Protestant Episcopal Church, built in the Early Pointed style, in , by Poynter, the architect. This church was founded by Charles II., in the Savoy. Next is Bloomsbury Chapel, built by Sir Morton Peto for the Baptists. Adjoining this, at the junction of and , stands Bedford Chapel. It was built, or at all events remodelled, in , and here for some time the late [extra_illustrations.3.208.1]  officiated as incumbent.

Parish enjoys the distinction of having originated the Great Plague of . It is on record that the persons seized were members of a family living near the top of , where men, said to have been Frenchmen, were attacked by it, and speedily carried off. The havoc caused by the plague in this parish alone, in the above-named year, amounted to deaths,

its malignity,

as Dr. Sydenham observes,

being mostly discovered among the poorer sort of people in

St. Giles's

.

The parish registers and rate-books contain many curious entries relating to this sad year; amongst them, the receipt of from Sir Edmundbury Godfrey, and of nearly from Lord Craven, for visiting and relieving the poor.

Lewknor's Lane, opposite , at the top of , now styled , derived its name from Sir Lewis Lewknor, who owned property here in the reign of James I. From an early date it bore a bad character, and in it Jonathan Wild kept

a house of ill-fame.

Constant allusions to its residents occur in the plays of the time of Queen Anne; and Gay, in the , alludes to it as of the places in which ladies of easy virtue might be found. If we may judge from a passage in

Instructions how to find Mr. Curll's Authors,

published in Swift's and Pope's Miscellanies, it was also the residence of hack-writers for the press.

At Mr. Summer's, a thief-catcher, in Lewknor's Lane, a man that wrote against the impiety of Mr. Rowe's plays.

The thoroughfare (called Lutner's Lane by Strype) is, as it was years ago,

a very ordinary place.

It is to be hoped that its morality is higher now than it was in the time of Samuel Butler, who speaks-satirically, of course-of

The nymphs of chaste Diana's train,

The same with those of Lewknor's Lane.

To which passage Sir Roger L'Estrange adds a note to the effect that it was a

rendezvous and

nursery for lewd women,

first

resorted to by the Roundheads.

It is said that in the time of Henry III. the north-west corner of was occupied by a smith's forge.

In the Coal or Cole Yard, on the eastern side of , near the end, Nell Gwynne is said to have been born. The is now a row of miserable tenements, at the end of which there is a turning to the south, by which we enter the Almshouses belonging to this parish and , Bloomsbury. A part of these has been formed out of the old

Round House,

in which highwaymen and other dangerous personages were confined until they could be brought before the sitting magistrates and formally committed to prison. Although the outside of this not very inviting building is modernised, the old cells in which the prisoners were confined may still be seen; some of them are underground, and others in the attics. In of them, it is said, Jack Sheppard was ordered to be confined for a night, but before the morning he had made his escape. Other prisoners, however, remained here long enough to cut their names or initials on the walls and window-sills, as may still be seen.

The old

Round House

was converted into almshouses about the year . They are surrounded with buildings on every side, to which fresh air can scarcely penetrate; and though the interior is comfortable, they are sadly

cribbed, cabined, and confined

in their position. In fact, the Almshouses should without delay be removed to

fresh fields and pastures new,

and a thoroughfare opened up through this crowded district.

A part of Oldwick Close, between and , was in possession of the celebrated Sir Kenelm Digby. In it was bounded on the western side by a ditch and a mud wall, intermixed with a few scattered buildings, among which was the Cockpit Theatre, which stood in a narrow court called Pitt Place, running out of into . It was erected about , but pulled down by the mob in , and all the apparel of the players torn to pieces. On its site arose a theatre, called the Phoenix, but this again, after a few years, gave way to , of which we shall have more to say presently. In most of the property had passed into the possession of the ancient and worthy family of the Welds, of Lulworth Castle, Dorsetshire, the head of which, Mr. Humphrey Weld, built here a handsome residence, the site of which is marked by Wild (formerly Weld) Court and Little .

In , or , were formerly situated the premises and stables of the Dutch ambassador.

The

White Lion,

in , in former years, was a place of resort late at night for

swells

of the upper class, and also for market-gardeners and other persons, who resorted to the neighbouring market. As may be imagined, it bore no very good reputation.

At the

Crown Coffee House,

in this lane, was held, in former times, an evening assembly called

The Flash Coves' Parliament

--a loose sort of gathering of members of the bar, small tradesmen, and

men about town,

each of whom bore the title of some member or other of the Upper House of Parliament: ., would be

Lord Brougham,

another

the Duke of Wellington,

another

Lord Grey,

and so forth. This, however, has long since passed away.

, which connects with , in a line with , was so named in honour of Queen-Elizabeth, and stands on the site of the common footpath which anciently separated the south part; or Aldewych Close (properly so called) from the northern division--latterly termed White Hart Closewhich extended to . In the reign of Elizabeth this footpath appears to have become a roadway, but no houses were built it up to that time. In a map of , by Norden, dated , no houses are shown eastward of ; but building must have commenced very shortly after this, for in Speed's Map of , in his

Great

Britain

,

the commencement of is indicated, together with a continuation of the houses on both sides of . In only houses appear to have existed on the south side of , which was then open to the country, and the north side is of later date. Shortly after the Restoration, a new-era of building having set in, the houses were finished on the south side of the street, from the designs, it is said, of Inigo Jones and his pupil Webbe. It was at time called , in compliment to Henrietta Maria, Queen of Charles I.

According to

one

authority,

says the author of

Haunted London,

Inigo Jones built Queen Streetat the cost of the Jesuits, designing it for a square, and leaving in the middle a niche for the statue of Queen Henrietta. The stately and magnificent houses begun on the north side, near Little

Queen Street

, were not continued. There were fleurs-de-luce placed on the walls in honour of the queen.

Great Queen Street

, in the time of the Stuarts,

says Leigh Hunt,

was

one

of the grandest and

most fashionable parts of the town. The famous Lord Herbert of Cherbury died there. Lord Bristol had a house in it, as also did Lord Chancellor Finch, and the Conway and Paulet families.

Mr. Parton, the author of a topographical work on , published in , mentions Paulet House, Cherbury House, and Conway House among the fine mansions still standing in this street.

The house of Lord Herbert of Cherbury-

the Sir Edward Herbert, the all-virtuous Herbert

of Ben Jonson--was a few doors from Great . Here he wrote a part of his celebrated treatise,

De Veritate,

and here he died, in , aged , and was buried in Churchyard. The Lord Chancellor Finch mentioned above was the famous Royalist, Sir Heneage Finch, afterwards Earl of Nottingham, who died in . He presided at Lord Stafford's trial, in , and pronounced judgment on that unfortunate nobleman in a speech of great ability. He was the

Omri

of Dryden's

Absalom and Achitophel

--

To whom the double blessing does belong,

With Moses' inspiration, Aaron's tongue.

Many other distinguished personages lived here about this time;

but,

says Parton,

the appro-

Old Houses In Great Queen Street, South Side.

priation of each house to its respective inhabitant is, however, a matter of uncertainty, no clue whatever being to be found among our parish records, nor, indeed, any mention made of them to guide our inquiries.

Sir Thomas Fairfax dated a printed proclamation from , , and is supposed, on that account, to have lived in the street. George Digby, Earl of Bristol, lived in , Evelyn says (); his house was taken by the Commissioners of Trade and Plantations. The Duke of Buckingham, the Earl of Lauderdale, Sir John Finch, Waller the poet, and Colonel Titus (author of

Killing no Murder

), were among its new occupants. At Conway House, in this street, lived Lord Conway, an able soldier, defeated by the Scotch at Newburn. In the year the Earl of Rochford lived in ; here, too, about that time, lived Lady Dinely Goodyer, and [extra_illustrations.3.210.1]  the actress. It would be difficult, at this distant date, to fix upon the exact house in which any of these notabilities resided, for the practice of numbering was not in use till ; having been the and the

p.211

p.212

place in London where it was adopted. Sir Martin Ffolkes; an eminent scholar and antiquary, was born in in . He was a great numismatist, and the President of the Royal Society of Antiquaries. He died in .

In the Gordon Riots may be said to have had their rise in , the meeting in favour of the petition presented by Lord George Gordon to Parliament, asking for the repeal of a measure of relief granted to the Roman Catholics, having been held in Coachmakers' Hall, in this street, on the . On the rejection of the petition, on the , the mob burnt the Roman Catholic chapels in , , and . On the following days they proceeded to further excesses, and on the the house of Mr. Justice Cox, in , was burned, together with the houses of other magistrates who had become obnoxious. The rest of the story of the Gordon Riots has been told in its proper place.

It is recorded that in Ryan the comedian, whose name was well known in connection with

Bartlemy Fair,

was attacked in this street at midnight by a footpad, who fired a pistol in his face, severely wounding him in the jaw, and robbed him of his sword. He was hurt so badly that a performance was given at Covent Garden for his benefit, when the Prince of Wales sent him a purse of a guineas.

No. in this street is now the office of Messrs. Kelly and Co., the well-known printers and publishers of the

Post Office

London

and

County Directories.

Messrs. Kelly removed here from Old , St. Clement Danes, on the demolition of that neighbourhood in order to clear a space for the new Law Courts.

In this street is of those Homes for Homeless and Destitute Boys which have done, of late years, such good service to the State. It was commenced in , in a loft over a cow-shed, about the year , its originator being a Mr. Williams. It then gradually grew into a school, and was located for a time in , , whence it was removed hither in . The premises which are occupied by the boys were formerly a carriage-maker's; they hold from to boys, most of whom are gradually drafted off to the and training-vessels, or to farm-work in the country, chiefly with a view to emigration, the rest being taught various trades and employments. Some of the boys are employed in wood-cutting, others in cooking, others in tailoring, shoemaking, and making mats and brushes. We understand that the boys' industry suffices to supply the inmates of the Home, and also the farmboys and those on board the ships, with all the shoes that they require.

At No. lived Sir Robert Strange, the eminent historical engraver, and adherent of Prince Charles Edward,

the Young Pretender.

Strange died in , and here his widow resided for some years afterwards.

Another artist of renown who resided in this street was [extra_illustrations.3.212.1] . He was living here in , when his popularity was at its highest. In Opie's

Memoirs

we get a glimpse of the condition of , when the roadway was sometimes blocked up with the carriages of his sitters. The great painter removed in , and by the end of the century the street was no longer fashionable, the polite world having migrated westward.

At No. in this street, in a large house, part of which is over the entrance to New Yard, lived James Hoole, the translator of Tasso, Metastasio, and Ariosto, who died in l. Born in London in , he devoted his leisure hours to literary pursuits, especially to the study of the Italian language, of which he made himself a perfect master. He was the author of original tragedies- , and were acted at Covent Garden, and also of some poems, and of a life of John Scott, of Amwell, the Quaker poet. With Hoole lived Hudson the painter, Sir Joshua Reynolds' master.

This house, now a steam pencil-factory, is the only in the street which retains its original architectural features, all the rest having been either rebuilt or modernised. Worlidge, an artist of some celebrity, who was famous for his etchings in the manner of Rembrandt, died in this house in . Richard Brinsley Sheridan lived in it for some years; many of the letters in Moore's

Life

are addressed to him here. How long Sheridan remained is not known, but it is related that he passed the day in seclusion at his house in on the occasion of Garrick's funeral, in . The

beautiful Perdita,

Mrs. Robinson, the unfortunate favourite of George IV., appears to have lived in this same house shortly after her marriage in ; she describes the house in her

Memoirs

as

a large, old-fashioned mansion, the property of the widow of Mr. Worlidge.

Like the towns which claim to have given birth to Homer, is claimed by some writers to have been the locality of the

scene

between Sir Godfrey Kneller and Dr. Radcliffe, which we have already described in our account of the Royal ;

p.213

[extra_illustrations.3.213.1] [extra_illustrations.3.213.2] 
others, however, fix the abode of the great physician and Sir Godfrey in , Covent Garden.

The most important buildings in are the [extra_illustrations.3.213.3] . These stand on the south side of the street, and present a noble and elegant appearance. The Hall was built by an architect named Sandby -- of the original members of the Royal Academy--in -; as its name implies, for the purpose of furnishing central place for the several lodges of Loyal Masons to hold their meetings and dinners, instead of borrowing, as up to that time had been the custom, the halls of the City companies. Freemasons' Hall, as we are told by Hunter, in his

History of London,

was

dedicated

in . The Tavern was built in , by William Tyler.

The original Hall, at the back of the Tavern, was built at a cost of about , which was raised by a tontine.

It was the

first

house,

says Elmes,

built in this country with the appropriate symbols of masonry, and with the suitable apartments for the holding of lodges, the initiating, passing, raising, and exalting of brethren.

It was a noble room, although not so large as the present hall. Above the principal entrance was a gallery, with an organ; and at the opposite end was a coved recess, flanked by a pair of fluted Ionic columns, containing a marble statue of the late Duke of Sussex, executed for the Grand Lodge by Mr. E. H. Baily, R.A. Here very many public meetings --political, charitable, and religious--were held; but the last-named have mostly migrated to Exeter Hall, in the Strand.

Among the most important public meetings held at Freemasons' Tavern was in , at which Lords Liverpool, Brougham, Sir J. Mackintosh, Sir Robert Peel, Sir Humphrey Davy, Mr. Huskisson, and Mr. Wilberforce, bore public testimony to the services of James Watt as the inventor of the steam-engine, and resolved that a national monument should be erected in his honour in . It was on this occasion that Peel frankly and generously acknowledged the debt of gratitude which was due to Watt from himself and his own family, as owing to him their prosperity and wealth. Here public dinners* were given to John Philip Kemble, to James Hogg (

the Ettrick Shepherd

), and to many others who, either in the ranks of bravery, science, or literature, have won a name which shall last as long as the English language is spoken.

Of late years the Freemasons' Hall and Tavern have been considerably altered, and in part rebuilt, and now occupy a very much larger area than the original erection. The work was carried out, about the year , under the direction of Mr. F. P. Cockerell, son of the late accomplished Professor of Architecture in the Royal Academy, and the illustrator of the AEginetan Marbles. The Grand Lodge buildings and the Freemasons' Tavern are now entirely separate establishments, although they join; the former, which stands on the west side of the Tavern, contains offices for all the Masonic charities, Grand Secretary's office, and lodge-rooms entirely for the use of the craft. These rooms, as it were, form the frontage of the large hall-a magnificent room, of noble proportions, which, from its internal fittings, may be truly termed the temple of Masonic rites. The room is beautifully decorated, and lit from above. Here are now held the balls and dinners of the Royal Scottish, Humane, Artists', and other benevolent societies and institutions.

Mr. Timbs, in his

Curiosities of London,

tells us how that , in , and , , in , were built by Freemasons; that Gundulph, Bishop of Rochester, who is said to have built the White Tower, governed the Freemasons. Peter of Colechurch, architect of Old , was Grand Master. Henry VII., in a lodge of master Masons, founded his chapel at . [extra_illustrations.3.213.4] , who planned the , was Grand Master; as was also Inigo Jones, the architect. Sir Christopher Wren, Grand Master, founded with his Lodge of Masons, and the trowel and mallet then used are preserved; and was founded, in , by the Prince of Wales, in his capacity as Grand Master, assisted by the Grand Lodge. For some reason or other, however, Freemasonry has latterly been under the ban of the Roman Catholic Church.

doors eastward of Freemasons' Tavern is a Wesleyan Chapel; and it may be interesting to record here the fact,

not generally known,

that at a place of worship on or near this spot on the rd of ,

David Garrick, of

St. Paul's

, Covent Garden,

was married by his friend, the celebrated Dr. Franklin, to

Eva Maria Violette, of St. James's,

Westminster

, a celebrated dancer.

According, however, to her own statement to Mr. J. T. Smith, when within a few months of her death, Mrs. Garrick was married at the parish church of , and afterwards in the Chapel of the Portuguese Ambassador, in . She also said that she was born at Vienna, on the . If so, at her death she must have been only months short [extra_illustrations.3.213.5] 

p.214

of entering on her hundredth year. She was buried beside her husband, in Poet's Corner, .

Although Mrs. Garrick's maiden name (apparently) is given in the above record of her marriage, there has always been a mystery about her birth. Lee Lewis asserted that she was a natural daughter of Lord Burlington. When Mrs. Garrick heard this, she replied with indignation,

Lee is a liar; Lord Burlington was not my father: but still, I am of noble birth.

It was also said that Lord Burlington gave Garick to marry her. This, too, she denied, adding that she had only the interest on , which was paid to her by the Duke of Devonshire. She died at an advanced age, in , in her arm-chair, in the front drawing-room of her house in the , having survived her husband years. She had just ordered her servants to put out on chairs or dresses, in order to choose in which to appear that evening at , it being a private view of Elliston's improvements for the coming season. Mr. J. T. Smith, who knew her personally, speaks thus of her in his

Book for a Rainy Day:

--

Perhaps no lady in public or private life held a more unexceptionable character. She was visited by persons of the

first

rank; even our late Queen Charlotte, who had honoured her with a visit at Hampton, found her peeling onions for pickling. The gracious queen commanded a knife to be brought, saying, I will peel some onions too. The late King George IV. and King William IV., as well as other branches of the royal family, frequently honoured her with visits.

In addressing her servants, however, she was in the habit of using more than would now be thought ladylike in any circle, high or low.

seems to have been a favourite locality for the residence of actors. Miss Pope, a celebrated actress of the last century, lived for years

two

doors west of Freemasons' Tavern.

She died at Hadley, in . In a house on the south side, occupied before by Messrs. Allman, the booksellers, died Lewis, the comedian; and at No. , now part of Messrs. Wyman and Sons' premises, and known in these days as the

Lincoln's Inn

Steam Printing Works,

died, in , Edward Prescott Holdway Knight, the comedian, commonly called

Little Knight.

Within the walls of Messrs. Wymans' establishment (then Messrs. Cox and Co.'s) Laman Blanchard discharged the duties of a printer's reader side by side with his friend, Douglas Jerrold, who at that time (about the year ) was the editor of a periodical called ; and many other interesting literary traditions cling to the place.

Benjamin Franklin has been described by some writers to have worked at Messrs. Wymans' printing-office as a journeyman printer. This is an error, Franklin having been employed at Mr. Watts's, which was on the south side of Wild Court, a turning out of Great , near the western end of . The press which Franklin recognised as that at which he had worked as a journeyman pressman in London in the years -, stood in Messrs. Wymans' office, however, for many years. In course of time it was taken down, and passed into the hands of Messrs. Harrild and Sons, who in parted with it to Mr. J. V. Murray, of New York, on condition that he would secure for them in return a donation to the Printers' Pension Society of London--a highlydeserving institution (its object being the support of aged and decayed printers and widows of printers), and of which they were active members. By Mr. Murray the press was exhibited in Liverpool, and afterwards taken to America. So great was the interest excited by the exhibition of the press, that it was ultimately arranged to have a lecture delivered on

The Life of Benjamin Franklin

during its exhibition. This was accordingly done, and with such success as to enable the committee of the Printers' Pension Society to initiate the

Franklin Pension,

amounting to guineas per year; and it is interesting to record that of the early recipients of this small bounty was a very old servant of the firm in whose office he and the press had so long done duty together.

The following inscription is engraved upon the plate affixed to the front of the press:--

Dr. Franklin's Remarks relative to this Press, made when he came to England as Agent of the Massachusetts, in the year 1768. The Doctor at this time visited the Printingoffice of Mr. Watts, of Wild Street, Lincoln's Inn Fields, and, going up to this particular Press (afterwards in the possession of Messrs. Cox and Son, of Great Queen Street, of whom it was purchased), thus addressed the men who were working at it :-- Come, my friends, we will drink together. It is now forty years since I worked like you, at this Press, as a journeyman Printer. The Doctor then sent out for a gallon of Porter, and he drank with them- Success to Printing.

From the above it will appear that it is 108 years since Dr. Franklin worked at this identical Press.

June, 1833.

In the authorities of the South Kensington Museum of Patents, being engaged in collecting some early memorials relating to the art of printing, made application to Messrs. Wyman for the loan of a companion press to that above described, and

p.215

which was then in daily use. After being photographed , the press was removed to the Museum of Patents, it having been presented to the trustees by Mr. Wyman. This press, of which we here give an engraving, is a fac-simile of the Franklin press, and there is strong reason to suppose that the celebrated American philosopher worked at it as well as at that which is now a venerated relic in the public museum of Philadelphia.

It may be added that at this printing-office in , for nearly a century, was executed all the printing relating to our possessions in the East, for the once famous East India Company; and that, in addition the high reputation which this office has always enjoyed for its Oriental printing, may be noted its connection with the periodical press of modern times, in which the takes a prominent place; and we might also specially mention a very useful and interesting annual, published by Messrs. Wyman, called , to which we are indebted for the particulars here given concerning the Franklin press.

At the eastern end of is , the name of which is equally significant of its origin, as being at the top of a lane out of which the horses would have strayed into the high road towards if it had not been for a gate. This thoroughfare leads to a narrow passage called Little Turnstile, which, with another known as the Great Turnstile, at the north-east corner of , open up communications with .

 

The Great Turnstile, according to Strype, in was

a great thoroughfare, and a place inhabited by sempsters, shoemakers, and milliners, for which it is of considerable trade and well noted.

Of , the connecting thoroughfare between the Turnstiles, we have already spoken in our chapter on . We may, however, add that it was a resort of profligate persons some centuries since, and that its character at that time is commemorated in the plays of , Dryden, and Wycherley:--

Where ladies ply, as many tell us,

Like brimstones in a Whetstone alehouse.

But, if we may believe Strype, its infamous and vicious inhabitants had been banished previous to the year .

of the small courts between and , near the eastern end of , is called Tichborne Court; over the entrance are the arms of the Tichbornes, with the date; the last figure is scarcely legible. This property came to the Tichborne family early in the century, by the marriage of White Tichborne, Esq., of Aldershot (grandfather of the baronet), with Ann, the daughter and heiress of Richard (or James) Supple, Esq., a member of the Vintners' Company.

Among the more celebrated inhabitants of the parish of are, Andrew Marvell, whom we have already mentioned, and the profligate Countess of Shrewsbury, concerning whom Horace Walpole tells us that she held the horse of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham, while the latter killed her husband in a duel.

Among the old families in , Parton names the Spencers, or De Spencers, after whom the great ditch which ran along the southern side of the parish was called Spencer's Ditch or

Dig.

[extra_illustrations.3.215.1] 

p.216

The name of this drain in more recent times was Cock and Pie Ditch.

The

History of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields,

by Mr. Parton, contains a variety of curious and interesting matter, and we have drawn largely upon it it these pages. But we have not adopted all his statements, having our confidence in him as a topographer and historian a little shaken by the fact that he gives in it a plan or map of the parish as it was in the century--in other words, centuries and a half, at the least, earlier than the map of London by Ralph Aggas, which is the oldest authority known to antiquaries, and from which, it is clear, on a close inspection, that he has borrowed many of his details. It is indeed, made
out so minutely as to show each man's possession in the parish, and every garden-plot delineated, with flower-beds, parterres, and bordered walks, just as if the gardener of William III. or Queen Anne had been alive in the Wars of the Roses! Mr. Parton gives no authority for these details; and it is to be feared that he allowed his antiquarian zeal to carry him in this matter-like Herodotus of oldout of the domain of fact into the airy regions of fiction. In other respects, however, he would appear to have been a trusty chronicler, and his work from to last is full of interest.

We may conclude our notice of with the following paragraph from a publication which does not often mislead, or misrepresent facts:--

p.217

p.218

 

As lately as the year

1767

,

says a writer in the ,

another mass-house was discovered in Hog Lane, near the

Seven

Dials,

and the officiating priest was

condemned to perpetual imprisonment

--simply for saying mass and giving the communion to a sick person. After years' imprisonment his sentence was

commuted into exile for life.

At the end of the last century, if not early in the present, Dr. Archer, a well-known Roman Catholic divine, and the author of several volumes of sermons, said mass in the garret of a small public-house in , kept by an Irishman who was not ashamed of his religion. This sounds strange in our ears in the present state of general toleration and liberty; but more than a century before, in , Pepys records the fact that

a priest was taken in his vestments officiating somewhere in

Holborn

the other day, and was committed [to prison] by Mr. Secretary Morris, according to law.

[extra_illustrations.3.218.1] 

 
 
Footnotes:

[] This street has long since disappeared, and George Street is built on its site.

[] See above, Chap. XIL, p. 77.

[extra_illustrations.3.208.1] Rev. J. C. M. Bellew

[extra_illustrations.3.210.1] Mrs. Kitty Clive

[extra_illustrations.3.212.1] Opie

[] See Chap. XXI., p. 143.

[extra_illustrations.3.213.1] Eighteenth Anniversary Dinner- Freemason's Tavern

[extra_illustrations.3.213.2] Dinner of Municipal Corp.

[extra_illustrations.3.213.3] Freemasons' Hall and Tavern

[extra_illustrations.3.213.4] Sir Thomas Gresham

[extra_illustrations.3.213.5] Source of R. Ass in and of Deaf and Dumb- Freemason's Tavern

[extra_illustrations.3.215.1] Robert Agle- Bookseller

[extra_illustrations.3.218.1] La lutte des voltigears --Drury Lane

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 Title Page
 Introduction
 Chapter I: Westminster--General Remarks-Its Boundaries and History
 Chapter II: Butcher's Row--Church of St. Clement Danes
 Chapter III: St. Clement Danes (continued):--The Law Courts
 Chapter IV: St. Clement Danes (continued)--A Walk Round the Parish
 Chapter V: The Strand (Northern Tributaries)--Clement's Inn, New Inn, Lyon's Inn, etc
 Chapter VI: The Strand (Northern Tributaries)--Drury Lane and Clare Markets
 Chapter VII: Lincoln's Inn Fields
 Chapter VIII: Lincoln's Inn
 Chapter IX: The Strand--Introductory and Historical
 Chapter X: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries
 Chapter XI: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries (continued)
 Chapter XII: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries (continued)
 Chapter XIII: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries (continued)
 Chapter XIV: St. Mary-Le-Strand, The Maypole, &c
 Chapter XV: Somerset House and King's College
 Chapter XVI: The Savoy
 Chapter XVII: The Strand:--Southern Tributaries (continued)
 Chapter XVIII: The Strand:--Northern Tributaries
 Chapter XIX: Charing Cross, The Railway Stations, and Old Hungerford Market
 Chapter XX: Northumberland House and its Associations
 Chapter XXI: Trafalgar Square, National Gallery, &c
 Chapter XXII: St. Martin's-in-the-Fields
 Chapter XXIII: Leicester Square and its Neighbourhood
 Chapter XXIV: Soho
 Chapter XXV: Soho Square and its Neighbourhood
 Chapter XXVI: St. Giles's in the Fields
 Chapter XXVII: The Parish of St. Giles's-in-the-Fields (continued)
 Chapter XXVIII: Drury Lane theatre
 Chapter XXIX: Covent Garden Theatre
 Chapter XXX: Covent Garden:--General Description
 Chapter XXXI: Covent Garden (continued)
 Chapter XXXII: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXIII: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXIV: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXV: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXVI: Covent Garden and its Neighbourhood (continued)
 Chapter XXXVII: The River Thames
 Chapter XXXVIII: The River Thames (continued)
 Chapter XXXIX: The River Thames (continued)
 Chapter LX: The Victoria Embankment
 Chapter XLI: Scotland Yard and the Metropolitan Police
 Chapter XLII: Whitehall--Historical Remarks
 Chapter XLIII: Whitehall and its Historical Associations (continued)
 Chapter XLIV: Whitehall and its Historical Associations (continued)
 Chapter XLV: Whitehall--The Buildings Described
 Chapter XLVI: Whitehall, and its Historical Reminiscences (continued)
 Chapter XLVII: Whitehall:--Its Precinct, Gardens, &c
 Chapter XLVIII: Whitehall--The Western Side
 Chapter XLIX: Westminster Abbey--Its Early History
 Chapter L: Westminster Abbey--Historical Ceremonies
 Chapter LI: Westminster Abbey--A Survey of the Building
 Chapter LII: Westminster Abbey--The Choir, Transepts, &c.
 Chapter LIII: Westminster Abbey--The Chapels and Royal Tombs.
 Chapter LIV: Westminster Abbey--The Chapter House, Cloisters, Deanery, &c.
 Chapter LV: Westminster School
 Chapter LVI: Westminster School (continued)
 Chapter LVII: The Sanctuary and the Almonry
 Chapter LVIII: The Royal Palace of Westminster
 Chapter LIX: The New Palace, Westminster
 Chapter LX: Historical Reminiscences of the Houses of Parliament
 Chapter LXI: New Palace Yard and Westminster Hall
 Chapter LXII: Westminster Hall--Incidents in its Past History
 Chapter LXIII: The Law Courts and Old Palace Yard
 Chapter LXIV:Westminster--St. Margaret's Church