Kenna's Kingdom: a Ramble Though Kingly Kensington
Brown, R. Weir
1881
CHAPTER V. KENSINGTON PALACE.
CHAPTER V. KENSINGTON PALACE.
THE hope expressed in our last chapter was not a vain one. | |
On the , Victoria was born here, and here also did she reside until her accession to the throne in . We are scarcely called upon to extend our rambles on what must, for the present, be hallowed ground. But traditions of the Princess still linger in the neighbourhood. Anecdotes of her punctuality, her activity, her early donkey rides, and her bracing walks, taken in all weathers, might easily be cited. William Wilberforce, whose acquaintance we shall soon make, at , tells us of a visit he paid to the | |
110 | Duchess of Kent, and of the " fine animated child by her side with its playthings, of which," he adds, "I soon became one." |
The last scene we have to depict at Kensington, forms a fitting concluding tableau to its long list of regal glories. At five o'clock on the morning of the , the Archbishop of Canterbury and Lord Conyngham, the Chamberlain, appeared before the gates of the Palace, having left the death-bed of William the Fourth only a few hours before. After knocking, ringing, and thumping for some time, the porter was at length aroused. Further delays ensued; the attendant at first refused to disturb the Princess, who was in a " sweet sleep." "But," continues our authority, " they said ' We are come to the Queen on business of State, and even her sleep must give way to that.'" In a few minutes she who had the night before retired to rest Princess, was awakened to find herself Queen. "She came into the room," we are told, "in a loose white nightgown and shawl, her night-cap thrown off, and her hair falling upon her shoulders, her feet in her slippers, tears in her eyes, but perfectly collected and dignified." These tears called from the | |
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eloquent pen of Mrs. Browning the well-known verses
of which one stanza runs:
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At eleven o'clock on that memorable day, the first Cabinet Council of the present reign met at Kensington. The customary formalities were gone through, her uncle's death was officially announced to her, the proclamation was read, the doors of the adjoining chamber were then thrown open,and the Queen,leaning on the arm of the Duke of Sussex, entered the room. She was in mourning, and plainly dressed. She bowed to the Council, took her seat, and read the speech prepared for her clearly and distinctly, while any little timidity she may have shown on her entrance entirely disappeared, and she remained perfectly calm and selfpossessed during the rest of this certainly trying ordeal for a young girl not yet out of her teens. She | |
112 | went through the whole ceremony of the swearing of allegiance and kissing her hand with the same graceful manner and self possession, occasionally looking to Lord Melbourne for instructions. The only sign of emotion she evinced, being when her uncle swore allegiance, when, as we are told in the "Greville Memoirs," "she blushed up to her eyes, as if she felt the contrast between their several and natural relations." |
The Duke of Cumberland was the first to render her the customary homage, and " the Duke of Sussex rose to perform the same ceremony, but the Queen, with admirable grace, stood, and preventing him from kneeling, kissed him on the forehead." "The arrangements, however," adds the same author, " were so illmade, that the scene of swearing fealty was more like that of the bidding at an auction than anything else." One only of the ministers who took the oath of allegiance at that Privy Council, held forty-three years ago, still survives--Earl Grey, then Secretary at War, who has reached the age of seventy-eight. Great indeed have been the changes in those forty-three years. Thankful may we feel that they have been for the | |
113 | most part, years of prosperity and peace, for which we look in vain to any other nation for a parallel. |
As we leave the Palace and take a farewell glance over the regal inhabitants who have passed under our view, we shall look in vain for another of whom it may be said, as it has been said so truly and poetically by Tennyson of Victoria:
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Leaving the palace, our path lies through the Gardens. Their mythological origin which formed the subject of our first chapter, is separated by a long train of centuries from their authentic history. That is at first mixed up with the history of Hyde Park, for both parks are the remains of a vast forest, which in the time of the Romans, was infested with wild boars, wolves, and deer, and inhabited only by a stray swineherd, or a charcoal burner. This forest was bounded on the north by the line of the present railings, which faces the high road, and which therefore forms the natural boundary of Hyde Park, beyond which it never extended. | |
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During the troubled times of the Commonwealth, the Park was sold for ready money, and the indentures of sale, composed with puritanical preciseness and dulness, may give us some little insight into the state at that period of the Gardens which were to be. The part around Kensington was meadow land, stocked with deer. The Park itself was intersected by a chain of eleven pools, the germ of the present Serpentine. But Kensington Gardens, as distinct from Hyde Park, did not exist until the time when King William purchased the Palace from the "orator dismal of Nottinghamshire." They then consisted of twentysix acres stretching westwards from the present broad walk, and including Palace Green, on the west side of which stood Henry the Eighth's conduit, said to have been built for the use of good Queen Bess in her childhood. In King William's time, the gardens were adorned in summer with orange, lemon, myrtle, and similarplants, which were put under shelter for the winter. added thirty acres to the north of the Banqueting House, as far as the Bayswater Road. "This," says Addison, "was at first nothing but a gravel pit" (being in fact the site of Oberon's | |
115 | capital in Tickell's poem). The unsightly hollow was formed into a beautiful dell, and close beside an artificial mound was raised. The traces of this latter structure still remain. It was, according to Miss Strickland, the one commonly attributed to Queen Caroline, which used to command a view of the Brentford Road, and which was fitted up with a turning alcove, capable of being adjusted so as to suit the direction of the wind. Whether Caroline made the mound or not, she was the great patron of Kensington Gardens, and added to it some three hundred acres, taken from the Park. She also constructed the Serpentine, and made other vigorous improvements. Her dapper little husband was under the impression that the cost of these alterations came out of his wife's revenue, but on her death it appeared that 20,000 of his own money had been expended! At this time it must be remembered that the Gardens were reserved for the use of the Royal Family, so that the curtailment of 300 acres of Hyde Park was a somewhat cool proceeding on the part of Her Majesty. Once, indeed, she thought of appropriating entirely St. James's Park, and asked Sir Robert Walpole what he con |
116 | sidered would be the probable cost of the undertaking. He replied, "Only three crowns," and the Queen appeared to consider the price too great. But to return to the Gardens. The Serpentine gained its inappropriate name from the single curve which distinguished it from the rectangular ponds in vogue at the time it was formed. There was also some talk about fountains and pleasure boats, but these are the offspring of a later age. At the same time, the Round Pond was excavated, and thence long vistas stretched through the surrounding woods, to the head of the Serpentine, reaching as far as Hyde Park. The eye may even be carried beyond, for the only boundary between the two is the ditch and low sunken wall; a species of fence commonly called Ha-Ha, as they interpose a barrier where none is expected. |
Crabbe, the poet, considered the effect of all this, new and striking, and that the Gardens had a very peculiar effect, " not exhilarating, I think, but alive and pleasant." With all these civilizing influences, the Gardens were in a tolerable state of nature for years afterwards. Even as late as , a keeper accidentally shot a man here while fox hunting. Such | |
117 | stray shots were not the only perils. Hyde Park was infested with footpads, and so surrounded with dangers was the high road between Kensington and the Metropolis, that pedestrians prepared for the journey as if they were about to cross the Sahara. Would-be voyagers were mustered by the sound of a bell, and only started when a sufficiently strong caravan had been assembled. About a century ago, two ladies encountered two gentlemanly-dressed men in the Broad Walk, and as the evening was drawing in, gladly accepted their proffered protection through the Park. But the cavaliers proved to be footpads, without even that gallantry with which highwaymen have been credited, for they robbed the two trusting ladies of their watches, money, and jewels, and walked off, leaving their fair companions to return, sadder and wiser to their homes. |
We have as yet said nothing about the promenades; these, indeed, form the chief glory of the Gardens. They seem to have commenced in George the First's reign, and to have arrived at their culminating point in that of his son. The company was of the most select description. None were admitted except on | |
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Saturdays, and then only in full dress. Even a half
century later, when the Palace was no longer a regal
residence, no one could gain admittance if he wore a
silk neck-tie, or leathern trousers, or if he were without
top-boots. Common soldiers and sailors were also
rigidly excluded. In , servants in livery, and
dogs, were excluded, but some thirty years later the
Gardens were open all the year round from sunrise
to sunset, to all respectably dressed persons. The
following squib was one day found on one of the seats,
the hour for closing the gates being then eight
o'clock.
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The Saturday promenades were indeed glorious. Tickell thus celebrates them in the opening verses of the poem to which we are indebted for our title:
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Head and chief among the company were the maids of honour to the Queen. There might be seen the beautiful Mary Lepell-she whose charms even affected the dried-up heart of Voltaire, and who married our old acquaintance, the gossipping Lord Hervey. There was Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, witty and pretty, but if report say true, no ardent admirer of the maxim that "cleanliness is next to godliness." There was Madge Bellenden,"the tallest of the land," and her sister Mary, afterwards Duchess of Argyle. The beauties would not be without cavaliers; Garth, , Addison, Steel, and Vanbrugh,all might be seen sauntering along the walks. Later on, their places were taken by ladies equally as fair, and cavaliers as renowned. The beautiful Miss Gunnings (you may see several portraits of them at the Bethnal Green Museum), Miss Chudleigh, afterwards Duchess of Queensbury, Lord Chesterfield, the cynic, George Selwyn, the rake, Beau Nash, and a long string of others, good, bad, and indifferent. But | |
120 | even the life of a Court beauty is not without its trials. Pope says he and several ladies agreed that the career of a maid of honour was of all things the most miserable, and adds a description of the duties involved. To eat "Westphalia ham in a morning, ride over hedges and ditches on borrowed hacks, come home in the heat of the day with a fever and (what is worse a hundred times) with a red mark on the forehead from an uneasy hat; all this may qualify them to make excellent wives for fox-hunters, and rear up abundance of ruddy-complexioned children. As soon as they can recover from the heat of the day, they must simper an hour and catch cold in the Princess's apartment; from thence (as Shakespeare has it) to dinner with what appetite they may, and after that till midnight, walk, work, or think, which they please." |
The fashions of these promenades were absurd enough, but we are afraid we are not sufficiently acquainted with the subject to go into the technicalities of furbelows, patches, hoops, brocades, chintzes, drums, go-carts, sacks, negligees, mobcaps, laces and ribbons, hoods and flounces; nor indeed dare we even attempt any description of | |
121 | periwigs, cocked hats, perukes, bobs, or bagwigs. Of all these important matters we are lamentably ignorant. Even so far back as the reign of , a sober writer of that period laments greatly the prodigality of the fair sex in regard to dress, but praises the moderation of their husbands. "The women," he adds, "who value themselves most upon a fine outward appearance, cannot keep within these bounds. They know that love delights in toys, and that men love to be caught in a gaudy net. Therefore they go still in rich silks, with all the setsoff that art can possibly invent, and herein the citizens' wives, and maid-servants, run into such excess as makes a confusion: so hard is it sometimes to know a tradesman's wife from a lady; or the maid from the mistress." But the arch-height of absurdity was attained by the Maccaronies. These were the fellows of a club who had imported from abroad foreign fashions and foreign dishes, from one of which latter they derived their name. They wore their hair in a high mitre-looking knob with a chignon and curls, sported a small cocked hat with a gold tassel on each side to keep its balance true, and had all their clothes |
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ornamented with bunches of ribbons, and as tight
fitting as a glove. The Gardens seem to have been
one of their favourite haunts. Sheridan thus describes
their promenades:
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But, reader, all that nonsense is now a century old. We at least have improved on our ancestors. Walk into Rotten-row any afternoon. Do you see dandies there now? Do you see conceited young jackanapes in patent leather boots, whisking canes, and making | |
123 | themselves struttingly ridiculous ? Do you see ladies in toppling high-heeled boots or nominal bonnets? Do you hear young subalterns drawling insipid nothings to their fair friends? Does anybody wear false plaits? Does anybody affect rouge? No! we may indeed be thankful, no such eye-sores are to be seen now; this is the age of sense and learning. Such fopperies have long since entirely disappeared. |
After all, although the history of the Gardens is largely a record of pageants and fopperies, yet great men have passed within their gates, and great men have paced their avenues. Paioli, the Corsican patriot enjoyed a walk here with his friend Boswell, and, half a century later, Blucher sought refuge in the Gardens from the enthusiastic populace who wished one and all to shake hands with the great Prussian general. | |
Chateaubriand too, delighted to stroll under these beautiful trees, where, in the days of his exile, he used to meet his fellow sufferers, the French priests, reciting their breviary-those trees under which he had " indulged in many a reverie, under which he had breathed many a sigh for his home in La Belle France, under which he had finished ' Atala,' and had composed Rene'" | |
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It would be wearisome to recount how often gaily dressed crowds have skated on the frozen Serpentine, and how the fashionables have meandered from one spot to another. The Gardens possess something more interesting than these promenades, human beings more attractive than languishing belles or youths redolent of " tags, feathers, and martial foolery." The proper time for a visit is about three or four in the afternoon. At that hour, on some summer's day, direct your steps to the Round Pond, or some other portion entirely devoted to the rising generation. What can be more enjoyable than to have some demure little maiden step up to you softly, with her hands nervously clasped behind her back, and in a voice trembling with excitement, enquire the time ? If you are wise you will not give a careless reply, or answer her abruptly with some vague guess, but, with an air befitting the importance of the occasion, draw forth your watch, make due allowance for its peculiarities, and tell her the hour to a minute. Then with a sudden dart your little questioner will skip away to communicate the result of her enquiries triumphantly to her playmates. On such afternoons the view from the round pond with the old | |
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Dutch Palace in the background, and the mingling
green of the trees circling round is, we think, marvellously fine. If one but know how to appreciate the
youngsters; if a little more attention were paid to the
proper cleansing of the Pond itself; and if there were
not so many nursemaids and red-coated soldiers to
take care of the children, the Gardens would be complete. They must be wise old trees, those that circle
the pond; that is if wisdom increase with age. Had
they the voice which the Arabian improvisator, and
later on our own Poet-Laureate, have bestowed on some
of their brethren, what memories they might unfold to
us! We should be told how in various ages, they or
their ancestors have sheltered the "shorn and sleek
monk of the Abbey of Hyde," and the " man-minded
offset of Bluff Harry who rose to chase the deer at
five;" how the gallants and ladies of the merry
Monarch's time have disported themselves beneath
their branches, and how to use the poet's own words:
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Nay, the old trees have older memories, for they | |
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may have heard from their gandsires, when yet young
saplings, of the
and some rumours may even have reached them of Albion and Kenna. |
Yet their work is not yet over, and so long as they afford a pleasant shelter to those who must pass their lives in this smoky, dingy, but after all, pleasant London, so long should Londoners join heartily in singing their praises. | |
