We now enter the of the Abbey, of which the great feature is the beautiful rose-window (restored ), feet in diameter. This transept was utterly uninvaded by monuments till the Duke of Newcastle was buried here years ago. Since then it has become the favourite burial-place of admirals, and since Pitt, Earl of Chatham, was laid here in , the central aisle has been

appropriated to statesmen, as the other transept by poets.

When he came back from Rome and saw his works in , Roubiliac exclaimed,

By God I my own work looks to me as meagre and starved, as if made of nothing but tobacco-pipes.

We may notice among the monuments-

Sir Robert Peel (1850), represented as an orator, in a Roman toga, by Gibson.

Vice-Admiral Sir Peter Warren (1752). The monument by Roubiliac is especially ridiculed in Churchill's Foundling Hospital for Wit. It pourtrays a figure of Hercules placing the bust of the deceased upon a pedestal. Navigation sits by disconsolate, with a withered olive-branch. Behind the tomb is seen the beautiful screen of Abbot Kyrton.

Against the adjoining pillar is the monument of Grace Scot (1645), wife of the regicide Colonel cruelly executed at the Restoration. It bears the lines- He that will give my Grace but what is hers, Must say her death has not Made only her dear Scot But Virtue, Worth, and Sweetness, widowers,

Sir John Malcolm (1833). Statue by Chantrey. He who was always so kind, always so generous, always so indulgent to the weaknesses of others, while he was always endeavouring to make them better than they were,--he who was unwearied in acts of benevolence, ever aiming at the greatest, but never thinking the least beneath his notice,--who could descend, without feeling that he sank, from the command of armies and the government of an empire, to become a peacemaker in village quarrels,--he in whom dignity was so gentle, and wisdom so playful, and whose laurelled head was girt with a chaplet of all the domestic affections,--the soldier, statesman, patriot, Sir John Malcolm.-J. C. Hare.

William Cavendish, the Loyall Duke of Newcastle, who lost f941,308 by his devotion to the cause of Charles I., and his Duchess, Margaret Lucas, who, as her epitaph tells, came of a noble family, for all the brothers were valiant, and all the sisters virtuous. This Duchess, commemorated in Peveril of the Peak, was a most voluminous writer, calling up her attendants at all hours of the night, to take down her Grace's conceptions,See Newcastle House, Clerkenwell much to the disgust of her husband, who, when complimented on her learning, said, Sir, a very wise woman is a very foolish thing. Walpole calls her a fertile pedant, with an unbounded passion for scribbling. She is, however, commemorated here as a very wise, wittie, and learned lady, which her many bookes do well testified. She was a most virtuous, and loveing, and careful wife, and was with her lord all the time of his banishment and miseries, and when he came home never parted from him in his solitary retirement. The whole story of this lady, wrote Pepys, is a romance, and all she does is romantic. Conceit about her own works was certainly not her fault, for she said, in writing to a friend- You will find my works like infinite nature, that hath neither beginning nor end; and as confused as the chaos, wherein is neither method nor order, but all mixed together, without separation, like light and darkness.

The Duke was also an author, and wrote several volumes on horsemanship. He is extolled by Shadwell as the greatest master of wit, the most exact observer of mankind, and the most accurate judge of humour he ever knew. Gibber speaks of him as one of the most finished gentlemen, as well as the most distinguished patriot, general, and statesman of his age. His liberality to literary men caused him to be regarded as the English Maecenas.Longbaine's Dramatick Poets. Nothing, says Clarendon, could have tempted him out of those paths of pleasure which he enjoyed in a full and ample fortune (which he sacrificed by his loyalty, and lived for a time in extreme poverty), but honour and ambition to serve the king when he saw him in distress, and abandoned by most of those who were in the highest degree obliged to him.

The Duke is represented in a coroneted periwig. The dress of the Duchess recalls the description of Pepys, who met her (April 26th, 1667) with her black cap, her hair about her ears, many black patches, because of pimples about her mouth, naked necked, without anything about it, and a black just au corps. Her open book and the pen-case and ink-horn in her hand recall her passion for authorship.

Charles, Earl Canning, Viceroy of India (1860)-a statue by Foley.

George Canning, the Prime Minister (1827)-a fine statue by Chantrey.

John Holles, Earl of Clare and Duke of Newcastle (7111). He filled many public offices during the reign of Queen Anne, and was created Duke upon his marriage with Margaret, daughter of the Duke William Cavendish, who lies beside him. His enormous wealth caused him to be regarded as the richest subject that had been in the kingdom for some ages, and his only daughter and heiress, Henrietta Cavendish Holles Harley, bore witness to it with filial devotion in this immense monument. The admirable architecture is by Gibbs, but the ludicrous figure of the Duke is by Bird. The statues of Prudence and Sincerity are said to have set the example of the allegorical figures in the abbey.Dean Stanley.

(Right of north entrance) Edward Vernon, Admiral of the White (1757), stigmatized by Byron as the Butcher in the opening canto of Don Juan. After his capture of Porto Bello in November, 1739, by which he was considered in the words of his epitaph to have conquered as far as naval force could carry victory, he became the popular hero of the day, and his birthday was kept with a public illumination and bonfires all over London; yet, only six years afterwards. he was dismissed the service for exposing the abuses of the Navy in Parliament. The monument, by Rysbrack, represents Fame crowning the bust of the admiral: it was erected by his nephew Lord Orwell in 1763.

(Left of north entrance) Sir Charles Wager, Admiral of the White (1743). A feeble monument by Scheemakers, representing Fame lamenting over a medallion supported by an infant Hercules. The description of the admiral given in the epitaph is borne out by Walpole (i. 248), who says, Old Sir Charles Wager is dead at last, and has left the fairest character.

William Pitt, Earl of Chatham (1778). The great statesman, who was seized by his last illness in the House of Lords, was first buried at Hayes, but in a few weeks was disinterred and brought to Westminster. Though men of all parties, says Macaulay,Essays, v. 229, had concurred in decreeing posthumous honours to Chatham, his corpse was attended to the grave almost exclusively by opponents of the government. The banner of the lordship of Chatham was borne by Colonel Barre, attended by the Duke of Richmond and Lord Rockingham. Burke, Savile, and Dunning upheld the pall. Lord Camden was conspicuous in the procession. The chief mourner was young William Pitt.

The colossal monument (thirty-three feet in height), by Bacon, was erected for the king and parliament at a cost of £ 6000. Britannia triumphant is seated upon a rock, with Earth and Ocean recumbent below. Above, on a sarcophagus, are statues of Prudence and Fortitude; lastly the figure of Lord Chatham, in his parliamentary robes, starts from a niche in an attitude of declamation. It was of this tomb that Cooper wrote- Bacon there Gives more than female beauty to a stone, And Chatham's eloquence to marble lips. The inscription, which is also by Bacon, drew forth the injunction of George III., who, while approving it, said, Now, Bacon, mind you do not turn author, stick to your chisel. When Bacon was retouching the statue of Chatham, a divine, and a stranger, tapped him on the shoulder, and said, in allusion to the story of Zeuxis, Take care what you are doing, you work for eternity. This reverend person then stept into the pulpit and began to preach. When the sermon was over, Bacon touched his arm and said, Take care what you do, you work for eternity.--Allan Cunningham.

Henry Grattan (1820), the eloquent advocate of the rights of Ireland, lies buried in front of Chatham's monument, near the graves of Pitt, Fox, Castlereagh, Wilberforce, the two Cannings, and Palmerston. Pitt and Fox died in the same year, and are buried close together. Here--taming thought to human pride-- The mighty chiefs sleep side by side. Drop upon Fox's grave the tear, 'Twill trickle to his rival's bier. O'er Pitt's the mournful requiem sound, And Fox's shall the notes rebound. The solemn echo seems to cry- Here let their discord with them die; Speak not for those a separate doom Whom Fate made brothers in the tomb. Scott's Marmion, Intr. to Canto 1.

Henry John Temple, Viscount Palmerston (1865). A statue by Jackson, erected by Parliament.

The Three Captains -William Bayne, William Blair, and Lord Robert Manners, who fell in 1782 mortally wounded in naval engagements in the West Indies, under Admiral Rodney. In the colossal tomb by Nollekens (next to that of Watt, the most offensive in the abbey), Neptune, reclining on the back of a sea-horse, directs the attention of Britannia to the medallions of the dead, which hang from a rostral column surmounted by a figure of Victory.

Robert, Viscount Castlereagh, second Marquis of Londonderry (1822). A statue by Owen Thomas, erected by his successor to the best of brothers and friends.

William Murray, earl of Mansfield (1793), who from the love which he bore to the place of his early education desired to be buried in this cathedral (privately). This huge monument was erected by funds left for the purpose by A. Bailey of Lyons Inn. The noble statue, by .Flaxman, is taken from a picture by Sir J. Reynolds. It is supported by the usual allegorical figures. Behind, at the foot of the pedestal, is the figure of a condemned criminal.

The statue of Mansfield is calm, simple, severe, and solitary-he sits alone, above all pomp, all passion, and all pride; and there is that in his look which would embolden the innocent and strike terror to the guilty. The figure of the condemned youth is certainly a fine conception --hope has forsaken him, and already in his ears is the thickening hum of the multitude, eager to see him make his final account with time. This work raised high expectations-Banks said when he saw it, This little man cuts us all out. -Allan Cunningham. Here Murray long enough his country's pride, Shall be no more than Tully or than Hyde.-Pope.

Lord Mansfield's is a character above all praise,--the oracle of law, the standard of eloquence, and the pattern of all virtue, both in public and private life.-Bishop Newton.

His parliamentary eloquence never blazed into sudden flashes of dazzling brilliancy, but its clear, placid, and mellow splendour was never for an instant overclouded. ... In the House of Peers, Chatham's utmost vehemence and pathos produced less effect than the moderation, the reasonableness, the luminous order, and the serene dignity which characterised the speeches of Lord Mansfield.- Macaulay's Essays, ii. 27, iii. 536.

(Turning round the screen of monuments) Sir William Webb Follet (1845), Attorney-General--a statue by Behnes.

George Gordon, Fourth Earl of Aberdeen (1860), Prime Minister-a bust by Noble.

* Mrs. Elizabeth Warren, wife of the Bishop of Bangor (1816). Her charities are typified by the lovely figure of a beggar girl holding a baby, by Westmacott.

Sir George Cornewall Lewis (1863), Chancellor of the Exchequer and Secretary of State--a bust by Weekes.

General Sir Eyre Coote (1783), who expelled the French from the coasts of Coromandel, and defeated the forces of Hyder Ally. In the huge and hideous monument by Thomas Banks Victory is represented as hanging the medallion of the hero upon a trophy: the mourning Mahratta captive and the little elephant in front recall the scene of his actions. The Mahratta captive is praised by artists for its fine anatomy, and by artists for its finer expression. Allan Cunningham.

Charles Buller (1848), who united the deepest human sympathies with wide and philosophic views of government and mankind, and pursued the noblest political and social objects, above party spirit and without an enemy. A bust.

Brigadier-General Hope, Lieutenant-Governor of Quebec (1789). Monument by Bacon.

Warren Hastings (1818), Governor of Bengal. He was buried at his home of Daylesford, though-with all his faults, and they were neither few nor small, only one cemetery was worthy to contain his remains. In that Temple of silence and reconciliation where the enmities of twenty generations lie buried, in the Great Abbey which has during many ages afforded a quiet resting-place to those whose minds and bodies have been shattered by the contentions of the great Hall, the dust of the illustrious accused should have mingled with the dust of the illustrious accusers.Macaulay's Essays.

Jonas Hanway (1786), the friend and father of the poor, chiefly known as the first person in England who carried an umbrella. He wrote some interesting accounts of his foreign travels, and then published a dull journal of an English tour. Jonas, says Dr. Johnson, acquired some reputation by travelling abroad, but lost it all by travelling at home. The monument has a medallion by Moore.

Sir Herbert Edwardes (1868), the hero of the Punjab. A bust.

Richard Cobden (1865), distinguished by his efforts for the repeal of the Corn-Laws. A bust by Woolner.

George Montagu Dunk, Earl of Halifax (177 ), Secretary of State, who contributed so largely to the commerce and splendour of America as to be styled the Father of the Colonies. The capital of Nova Scotia takes its name from him. A monument by John Bacon.

Vice.Admiral Charles Watson (1757), who delivered the prisoners in the black hole of Calcutta. A frightful monument by Scheemakers, erected by the East India Company.

Sir William Sanderson (1676), the adulatory historian of Mary Stuart, James I., and Charles I.; and his wife Dame Bridget-Mother of the Maids of Honour to the Queen-Mother, and to her Majesty that now is. The monument is supported by figures of Wisdom and Justice.

(West Wall) General Joshua Guest, who closed a service of sixty years by faithfully defending Edinburgh Castle against the rebels in 1745. A monument and bust.

Sir John Balchen (1744), Admiral of the White, Commander-in- Chief, lost on board the Victory in a violent storm in the channel, from which sad circumstance, says the epitaph, we may learn that neither the greatest skill, judgment, or experience, joined to the most pious, unshaken resolution, can resist the fury of the winds and waves. The monument, by Scheemakers, bears a relief representing the shipwreck.

John Warren, Bishop of Bangor (1800). A monument by R. Westmacott.

Lord Aubrey Beauclerk (1740), killed in a naval engagement under Admiral Vernon off the Spanish coast. A monument by Scheemakers. Sweet were his manners, as his soul was great, And ripe his worth, though immature his fate. Each tender grace that joy and love inspires Living, he mingled with his martial fires; Dying, he bid Britannia's thunder roar, And Spain still felt him when he breath'd no more. (The window above this tomb commemorates the loss of H.M.S. Captain, Sept. 7, 1870.)

General Hon. Percy Kirk (1741), and his wife Diana Dormer of Rousham, A monument by Scheemakers.

Richard Kane (1736), distinguished in the wars of William III. and Anne, and for his defence of Gibraltar for George I. He was rewarded by George II. with the governorship of Minorca, where he is buried. A monument by Rysbrack, with a fine bust.

Samuel Bradford, Bishop of Rochester (1731), praesul humillimus, humanissimus, et vere evangelicus. A monument by Cheere.

Hugh Boulter, Bishop of Bristol, who was translated to the Archbishopric of Armagh (1733), and from thence to heaven (1742). Monument by Cheere.

Entering the north aisle of the Choir, the Aisle of the Musicians, we find-

(Left Wall) Sir Thomas Powell Duxton, the philanthropist, chiefly known from his exertions in the cause of Prison Discipline and for the suppression of Suttees in India. A statue by Thrupp.

Sir Thomas Hesketh (1605), an eminent lawyer of the time of Elizabeth. A handsome monument of the period, with a reclining figure.

Hugh Chamberlen (1728), an eminent physician and benefactor to the science of midwifery, on which he published many works. His monument,.by Scheemakers and Delvaux, was erected for Edward, Duke of Buckinghamshire, and his elaborate epitaph is by Atterbury, whom he visited in the Tower. In the time of its erection this was considered one of the best pieces in the Abbey! Strype.

(In front of Chamberlen's tomb is the fine brass of Dr. J. H. Monk, Bishop of Gloucester and Bristol, sometime Canon of this church, 1859.)

Samuel Arnold (1802), the composer and organist of the Abbey-a tablet.

Henry Purcell (1695), composer and organist--a tablet. The epitaph, by Lady Elizabeth Howard, the wife of Dryden, tells how he is gone to that blessed place where only his harmony can be exceeded. The air, Britons, strike home, is one of the best known of Purcell's productions.

Sir Stamford Raffles (1826), Governor of Java and First President of the Zoological Society of London. A statue by Chantrey.

Almeric de Courcy, Baron of Kinsale (1719), who commanded a troop of horse under James II. His epitaph tells how he was descended from the famous John de Courcy, Earl of Ulster, who, in the reign of King John, in consideration of his great valour, obtained that extraordinary privilege to him and his heirs of being covered before the king.

* William Wilberforce (1833), whose name will ever be specially identified with those exertions which, by the blessing of God, removed from England the guilt of the African Slave trade. The peers and commons of England, with the Lord Chancellor and the Speaker at their head, carried him to his fitting place among the mighty dead around. A statue by Joseph, perhaps the most characteristic modern statue in the Abbey.

Sir Thomas Duppa (1694), who waited upon Charles II. when Prince of Wales, and after the Restoration was made Usher of the Black Rod.

Dame Elizabeth Carteret (1717). Above are inscriptions to the different members of the Greville family buried in the tomb of their relative, Monk, Duke of Albemarle.

Turning to the we find-

Dr. John Blow (1708), organist and composer, the master of Purcell. A canon in four parts with the music is seen beneath the tablet.

>Challenged by James II. to make an anthem as good as that of one of the King's Italian composers, Blow by the next Sunday produced, I beheld, and lo a great multitude!! The King sent the Jesuit, Father Peter, to acquaint him that he was well pleased with it, but. added Peter, I myself think. it too long. That, replied Blow, is the opinion of but one fool, and I heed it not. This quarrel was, happily, cut short by the Revolution of 1688.-Dean Stanley.

Charles Burney (1814), author of the History of Music, the friend of Dr. Johnson, and father of Madame d'Arblay. A tablet. Dr. Burney gave dignity to the character of the modern musician, by joining to it that of the scholar and philosopher.-Sir W. Jones.

William Croft (1727), composer and organist. He died of his exertions at the coronation of George II. Ad coelitum demigravit chorum, presentior angelorum concentibus suum additurus Hallelujah. A tablet and bust.

Temple West, Admiral of the White (1757), the son-in-law of Balchen, celebrated for his victories over the French. A bust.

Richard Le Neve, who was killed while commanding the Edgar in the Dutch wars, 1673.

(Above the last) Sir George Staunton (1800), who concluded the treaty with Tippoo Saib in 1784. Monument by Chantrey.

Peter Heylin (1662), the independent canon of Westminster who defied Dean Williams from the pulpit. He was ousted by the Commonwealth, returned at the Restoration, and was buried under his seat as sub-dean, in accordance with his own desire, for he related that on the night before he was seized with his last illness he dreamed that his late Majesty Charles I. appeared to him and said, Peter, I will have you buried under your seat in church, for you are rarely seen but there or at your study.

Charles Agar, Earl of Normanton and Archbishop of Dublin (8009). A monument by Bacon.

We now enter the (length ft.; breadth, with aisles, ft. in.).

(First Arch) Philip Carteret (1700), son of Lord George Carteret, who died a Westminster scholar. A figure of Time bears a scroll with some pretty Sapphic verses by Dr. Freind, then second master of the school. Monument by David.

(Third Arch) Dr. Richard Mead (1754), the famous physician, who refused to prescribe for Sir R. Walpole till Dr. John Freind was released from the Tower. He lived more in the broad sunshine of life than almost any man,Boswell's Johnson, iv. 222. being for nearly half a century at the head of his profession. He was a great collector of books and pictures, and is extolled by DibdinBibliomania, ed. 1842, 364. as the ever-renowned Richard Mead, whose pharmacopaeal reputation is lost in the blaze of his biblionaniacal glory. Pope speaks of- Rare monkish manuscripts for Hearne alone, And books for Mead, and butterflies for Sloane. Epist 4. Mead is buried in the Temple Church. His monument here has a bust by Scheemakers.

Spencer Perceval, Chancellor of the Exchequer (1812), assassinated in the lobby of the House of Commons by Bellingham. His recumbent effigy with figures of Truth and Temperance at his feet lies in a window too high up to be examined. A bas-relief represents the murder. The monument is by Westmacott.

Against the choir screen are large monuments-

(Left) Sir Isaac Newton (1727), the author of the Principia, and the greatest philosopher of which any age can boast. His body, after lying in state in Jerusalem Chamber, was carried in state to the grave, his pall being borne by the Lord Chancellor and such Dukes and Earls as were Fellows of the Royal Society. His tomb, by Rysbrack, is inscribed- Isaacus Newtonius, Quem Immortalem Testantur Tempus, Natura, Coelum; Mortalem Hoc marmor fatetur. Nature and Nature's laws lay hid in night; God said, Let Newton be, and all was light.Pope, iii. 378. The grave beneath the monument bears the words--Hic depositum quod mortale fuit Isaaci Newtoni.

No one ever left knowledge in a state so different from that in which he found it. Men were instructed not only in new truths, but in new methods of discovering old truth: they were made acquainted with the great principle which connects together the most distant regions of space as well as the most remote periods of duration, and which was to lead to further discoveries far beyond what the wisest or most sanguine could anticipate.-Dr. Playfair. Prelim. Dissert.

In Sir Isaac Newton two kinds of intellectual power--which have little in common and which are not often found together in a very high degree of vigour, but which, nevertheless, are equally necessary in the most sublime departments of natural philosophy--were united as they have never been united before or since. There may have been minds as happily constituted as his for the cultivation of pure mathematical science; there may have been minds as happily constituted for the cultivation of science purely experimental; but in no other mind have the demonstrative faculty and the inductive faculty co-existed in such supreme excellence and perfect harmony.-Macaulay. Hist. of England, i. iii.

(Right of entrance) James, Earl Stanhope (1718), Chancellor of the Exchequer and Secretary of State. The second and third Earls Stanhope are commemorated in the same monument, which was designed by Kent and executed by Rysbrack. They are all buried at Chevening.

Following the we may notice-

(Fourth Arch) Jane Hill (1631). A curious small black effigy, interesting as the only ancient monument in the nave.

Mrs. Mary Beaufoy (1705). The monument is interesting as the work of Grinling Gibbons.

(Fifth Arch) Thomas Banks, the sculptor (1805), buried at Paddington.

(In front of Banks) Sir Robert T. Wilson (1849) and his wife. A modern brass. He is represented in plate armour; his children are beneath.

John Hunter (1793), the famous anatomist, moved by the College of Surgeons from his first burial-place at St. Martin's-in-the-Fields. A brass.

(At the feet of Hunter) A small square stone bearing the words, O Rare Ben Jonson. He was buried here standing upright, in accordance with the favour-eighteen inches of square ground in Westminster Abbey -which he had asked from Charles I., having died in great poverty. The inscription, says Aubrey, was done at the charge of Jacob Young (afterwards knighted), who, walking there when the grave was covering, gave the fellow eighteenpence to cut it.

His name can never be forgotten, having by his own good learning, and the severity of his nature and manners, very much reformed the stage, and indeed the English poetry itself.-Clarendon.

(Beyond the grave of Wilson) Sir Charles Lyell (1875), who throughout a long and laborious life sought the means of deciphering the fragmentary records of the world's history.

(Sixth Arch) Dr. John Woodward (1728), Professor of Physic at Greshan College, author of many geological works, and founder of the geological professorship at Cambridge. His medallion is by Scheemakers. Who Nature's treasures would explore, Her mysteries and arcana know, Must high with lofty Newton soar, Must stoop as delving Woodward low. Dr. Richard Bentley.

Captains Harvey and Hutt, who fell off Brest, on board their ships the Brunswick and Queen (1794). An enormous and ugly monument by the younger Bacon. It represents Britannia decorating their urn with wreaths.

(Seventh Arch) General Stringer Lawrence (1766). A monument, by Tayler, erected by the East India Company in honour of the conquest of Pondicherry and the relief of Trichinopoly. The city is seen in a relief.

At the -

The Whigs' Corner

Charles James Fox (1806), who died at Chiswick, and is buried in the North Transept. The great statesman and orator is represented as a half-naked figure sprawling into the arms of Liberty in a monument by Westmacott, erected by his private friends.

Captain James Montagu (1794), killed off Brest. The huge monument by Flaxman has a relief of the battle. The lions, so utterly wanting in life and likeness, were greatly admired at the time of their execution. Compare them with the lions by Landseer I

Sir James Mackintosh (1832), jurist, philosopher, historian, statesman, buried at Hampstead. The monument is by Theed.

George Tierney (1830), long the leader of the Whig party in the House of Commons. Monument by R. Westmacott.

Henry R. Vassal Fox, 3rd Lord Holland (1840), nephew of the statesman, well known as a literary Maecenas. A huge monument by Baily, representing the Prison-House of Death, bearing a bust, but with no word of inscription to indicate whom it is intended to honour.

Sir Richard Fletcher (1812), killed at the storming of St. Sebastian. Monument by Baily.

James Rennell (1830), the Asiatic and African geographer. A bust by Baily.

Zachary Macaulay (1838) (father of the historian, buried at the cemetery in Brunswick Square), who fought by the side of Wilberforce in the anti-slavery movement, and conferred freedom on eight hundred thousand slaves. A bust by Weekes.

--

John Conduitt (1737), Master of the Mint, successor and nephew of Sir Isaac Newton, whose monument is opposite. The tomb is by Cheered. In the cornice an inscription is inserted commemorative of Jeremiah Horrocks, Curate of Poole.

(Over the west door) William Pitt (1806), Chancellor of the Exchequer. He is represented in the act of declamation, with History recording his words, and Anarchy writhing at his feet.

(Beyond door) Admiral Sir Thomas Hardy (1732), distinguished in the naval wars of Queen Anne. Monument by Cheere.

(Outside Baptistery) Sir George Cornewall (1743), killed in battle off Toulon, in honour of which Parliament voted this enormous monument by Tayler, in which the whole sea-fight is represented.

The stained glass of the west window (Moses, Aaron, and the Patriarchs) was executed in the reign of George II. It is from this end of the minster that its long aisles are seen in the full glory of their aerial perspective.

The Abbey Church is beheld as a rare structure, with so small and slender pillars (greatest legs argue not the strongest man) to support so weighty a fabrick.-Fuller's Worthies. The door is closed, but soft and deep Around the awful arches sweep Such airs as soothe a hermit's sleep. From each carv'd nook and fretted bend Cornice and gallery seem to send Tones that with seraph hymns might blend. Three solemn parts together twine In harmony's mysterious line; Three solemn aisles approach the shrine. Yet all are one-together all In thoughts that awe but not appal Teach the adoring heart to fall. John Keble.

Behind Comewall's tomb is the Baptistery. It contains-

(At the back of Cornewall's tomb) Hon. James Craggs (1720), who, the son of a shoemaker, became Secretary of State, yet was so conciliating in his manners that in his lifetime he was universally honoured and beloved. Pope, who was his devoted friend, took the greatest interest in the progress and erection of his statue, which is by the Italian sculptor Guelphi, and he wrote the epitaph so severely criticised by Dr. Johnson- Statesman, yet friend to truth I of soul sincere, In action faithful, and in honour clear! Who broke no promise, serv'd no private end; Who gain'd no title, and who lost no friend; Ennobled by himself, by all approv'd, Prais'd, wept, and honour'd by the Muse he lov'd.

Unfortunately the fair fame of Craggs was not untarnished after his death, which was nominally caused by the smallpox, but is supposed to have been really due to the anxiety he underwent during the Parliamentary Inquiry into the South Sea Swindle, in the subscription list of which his name was down for the fictitious sum of £ 659,000.

William Wordsworth, the poet (1850), buried at Grassmere-a statue by Lough.

John Keble (1866), author of The Christian Year, buried at Hursley--a feeble monument with a bust by Woolner.

Here also is buried, without a monument, the famous Jacobite Dean, Atterbury, Bishop of Rochester (1731-2), the brilliant controversial writer and orator. His devotion to the cause of the Stuarts led to his being committed to the Tower under George I. and soon after to his banishment. He died at Paris, and was privately interred, as he desired, as far from kings and kaisers as possible.

On entering the we see above us the oak gallery opening from the Deanery, from whence the

(Above the door leading to the Deanery and Jerusalem Chamber) Henry Wharton, the favourite chaplain of Archbishop Sancroft, author of many works on ecclesiastical history. His early death was deplored by men of all parties as an irreparable loss to letters. Macaulay, Hist. of England, ii. a Archbishop Tenison attended his funeral, and an anthem, composed for the occasion by Purcell, was sung over his grave.

William Congreve (1728), the licentious dramatist, so grossly extolled by Dryden in the lines- Heaven, that but once was prodigal before, To Shakspeare gave as much, he could not give him more. The monument, with a medallion by Bird, was sett up by Henrietta, Duchess of Marlborough, as a mark how dearly she remembers the happiness and honour she enjoyed in the friendship of so worthy and honest a man. Happiness perhaps, but not honour, said the old Duchess Sarah when she heard of the epitaph, but the Duchess Henrietta, to whom Congreve had bequeathed £ 7000, which she spent in a diamond necklace,Dr. Young in Spence's Anecdotes. carried her adulation farther than this stone, for she had an ivory statue of Congreve, to which she would talk as to the living Mr. Congreve, with all the freedom of the most polite and unreserved conversation, which moved by clockwork, upon her table, and she had also a wax figure of him whose feet were blistered and anointed by her doctors, as Congreve's had been when he was attacked by the gout.See Macaulay's Essays, vi. 531.

Beneath the monument of Congreve, Mrs. Anne Oldfield, the actress, was buried with the utmost pomp in 1730, in a very fine Brussels lace head, a Holland shift, and double ruffles of the same lace, a pair of new kid gloves, and her body wrapped in a winding-sheet. To this Pope alludes in the lines- Odious, in woollen! wouldd a saint provoke (Were the last words that poor Narcissa spoke); No, let a charming chintz and Brussels lace Dress my cold limbs and shade my lifeless face; One would not, sure, be frightful when one's dead- And-Betty, give this cheek a little red.

Dr. John Freind (1728), the eminent physician who was imprisoned in the Tower for his friendship with Atterbury, and released by the influence of Dr. Mead with Sir R. Walpole. He is buried at Hitchin. The monument here has a bust by Rysbrack and an epitaph by Samuel Wesley.

Thomas Sprat (1713), Bishop of Rochester, the royalist Dean of Westminster who refused to allow the name of the regicide Milton to appear in the abbey. His son Thomas, Archdeacon of Rochester, is commemorated with him in this monument by Bird, which was erected by Dr. John Freind.

Unhappily for his fame, it has been usual to print his verses in collections of the British poets; and those who judge of him by his verses must consider him as a servile imitator, who, without one spark of Cowley's admirable genius, mimicked whatever was least commendable in Cowley's manner; but those who are acquainted with Sprat's prose writings will form a very different estimate of his powers. He was, indeed, a great master of our language, and possessed at once the eloquence of the orator, of the controversialist, and of the historian.-Macaulay's Hist. of England, ii. vi.

Joseph Wilcocks (1756), the Dean of Westminster under whom the much-abused western towers of the abbey were erected by Wren. They are triumphantly exhibited on his monument by Cheere, and he is buried under the south-west tower.

(Above these) Admiral Richard Tyrrell (1766), an immense monument like a nightmare, which closes three parts of the window. The admiral, who was a nephew of the Sir Peter Warren whose tomb is in the north transept, was distinguished when commanding the Bucking. ham against the French. He died and was buried at sea. Nathaniel Read, a pupil of Roubiliac, has represented his ascent--a naked figure --from the waves to heaven. Beneath are, in wild confusion, the coralline depths of the sea, a number of allegorical figures, and the Buckingham jammed into a rock.

Zachary Pearce (1769), Bishop of Rochester and the Dean of Westminster who proposed to remove the glorious tomb of Aylmer de Valence to set up the cenotaph of General Wolfe.See Walpole's Letters. He is buried at Bromley. The monument here has a bust by Tyler.

William Buckland (1856), Dean of Westminster and first Professor of Geology at Oxford. Bust by Weekes.

Mrs. Katharine Bovey (1724)-a monument by Gibbs the architect, erected by Mrs. Mary Pope, who lived with her nearly forty years in perfect friendship--with an astonishing epitaph.

John Thomas (1793), Dean of Westminster and Bishop of Rochester. A bust by Rysbrack.

(Above) John Ireland (1713), Dean of Westminster and Founder of the Ireland Scholarships. A bust by Turnouth. (Over these, in the window) Gen. Viscount Howe (1758), killed on the march to Ticonderoga. In the monument, by Scheemakers, the genius of Massachusetts Bay sits disconsolate at the foot of an obelisk bearing the arms of the deceased.

Opposite these, in the Nave, are a group of interesting grave-stones: viz.--

Thomas Tompson (1713), and George Graham (1751), the first English Watchmakers.

David Livingstone (1873), the Missionary, Traveller, and Philanthropist.

Robert Stephenson (1859), the famous engineer--a brass.

Sir Charles Barry (1860), the architect--a brass.

Sir George Pollock (1872), Constable of the Tower.

Colin Campbell, Lord Clyde (1863).

Returning to the South Aisle, beginning from the Cloister door, we see-

General George Wade (1748), celebrated for his military roads. The monument--in which Time, endeavouring to overthrow the memory of the dead (a trophical pillar), is repelled by Fame--is a disgrace to Roubiliac.

(), the Indian hero--a bust by

()-a monument by

() and (-). monuments to the wives of Sir Samuel Morland, Secretary of Oliver Cromwell, who wrote the He is regarded as the inventor of the Speaking Trumpet and Fire Engine. He has displayed his learning here in inscriptions in Hebrew, Greek, Ethiopic, and English.

()-a monument by

and (), friends who perished with the Earl of Sandwich in the , destroyed by a fire-ship in a naval engagement with the Dutch off the coast of Suffolk.

(Over the last) (), Governor of Gibraltar. On the monument Hargrave is seen rising from the tomb, while Time has overthrown Death, and is breaking his dart. A much-extolled work of

().

Prime Minister during the

first

nine

glorious years of the reign of Queen Anne.

the silentest and modestest man that was, perhaps, ever bred in a court.

(), killed at Ticonderoga in North America. The architecture of the monument is by the architect, the relief by

(), Governor of Tangiers. The monument is by , the epitaph by Dryden.

(), who, during the American war, was hanged as a spy by Washington, in spite of the pathetic petition that he would

adapt the mode of his death to his feelings as a man of honour.

by the

Westminster

boys to play at sconce with in the cloisters.

-

(Right) Admiral George Churchill (1711), brother of the great Duke of Marlborough.

Major Richard Creed (1704), who attended William III. in all his wars, and was killed in the Battle of Blenheim.

Sir Richard Bingham (1598), celebrated in the wars of Mary and Elizabeth--a small black monument with a curious epitaph recounting the varied scenes of his warfare.

Martin Ffolkes (1754), celebrated as a numismatist, President of the Royal Society-buried at Hillingdon.

Dr. Isaac Watts (1674). The first of the Dissenters who courted attention by the graces of language.Dr. Johnson. Buried at Bunhill Fields. A tablet with a relief by Banks.

George Stepney (1707), Ambassador in the reigns of William III. and Anne.

John Wesley (1790) and Charles Wesley (1780)-medallions.

William Wragg (1777), lost by shipwreck on his passage as a refugee from South Carolina. His son floated on a package, supported by a black slave, till cast upon the shore of Holland. The shipwreck is seen in a relief.

Sir Cloudesley Shovel (1707), Commander-in-Chief of the Fleet. As he was returning with his fleet from Gibraltar his ship was wrecked on the Bishop and his Clerks off the coast of Scilly. His body was washed on shore, buried, disinterred, and after lying in state at his house in Soho Square, was laid in the abbey. In this abominable monument by Bird he is represented in his own well-known wig, but with a Roman cuirass and sandals! Sir Cloudesley Shovel's monument has often given me great offence. Instead of the brave rough English Admiral, which was the distinguishing character of that plain gallant man, he is represented on his tomb by the figure of a beau, dressed in a long periwig, and reposing himself upon velvet cushions, under a canopy of state. The inscription is answerable to the monument; for, instead of celebrating the many remarkable actions be had performed in the service of his country, it acquaints us only with the manner of his death, in which it was impossible for him to roap any honour.-Spectator, No. 26.

(Above Sir C. Shovel) Sir Godfrey Kneller (1723), the great portrait painter from the time of Charles II. to George I., the only painter commemorated in the abbey. Even he is not buried here, but at Kneller Hall, in accordance with his exclamation to Pope upon his death-bed-By God, I will not be buried in Westminster, they do bury fools there. He designed his own monument, however: the bust is by Rysbrack, and Pope wrote the epitaph- Kneller, by Heaven, and not a master, taught, Whose art was nature, and whose pictures thought- When now two ages he has snatched from fate Whate'er was beauteous, or whatever was great- Rests, crowned with princes' honours, poets' laya Due to his merit and brave thirst of praise: Living, great Nature fear'd he might outvie Her works; and dying, fears herself may die.

Thomas Thynne, of Longleat (1681-2), murdered at the foot of the Haymarket by the hired assassins of Count Konigsmarck, in jealousy for his being accepted as the husband of the great heiress Elizabeth Percy, then the child-widow of Lord Ogle. The murder is graphically represented in a relief upon the monument, by Quellin.

A Welshman, bragging of his family, said his father's effigy was set up in Westminster Abbey; being asked whereabouts, he said, In the same monument with Squire Thynne, for he was his coachman. Joe Miller's Jests.

Thomas Owen (1598), Judge of Common Pleas in the time of Elizabeth--a fine old monument of the period.

Pasquale de Paoli (1807), the Italian patriot--a bust by Flaxman.

(), whose book of devotions was published after her death by Congreve, with a prefatory poem. He believed or pretended that its contents were original,

noted down by the authoress with her pencil at spare hours, or as she was dressing;

Reliquiae Gethinianae

the marble book in

Westminster Abbey

must, therefore, lose most of its leaves.

(), Speaker of the , Judge of Common Pleas, created Lord Chief Justice by Charles I. He was known as

the jeering Lord Chief Justice,

the lawn sleeves had almost choked him,

might have the book of martyrs to amuse him.

(), Receiver of the Marches under Henry VIII.-a noble figure in armour, lying on a mat.

(), founder of the Madras system of education-a tablet by

We must now enter the , which, as has been already observed, projects into the nave after the fashion of Spanish cathedrals. Its reredos was erected in .

of the Abbots of are buried in the space in front of the altar. (), who brought the beautiful mosaic pavement back with him from Rome; (), under whom the buildings of Henry III. were completed; the unworthy (), whose election was obtained by the influence of Piers Gaveston with Edward II.; and ().

On the left are beautiful royal monuments which we have already seen from the northern ambulatory--Aveline, Aylmer de Valence, and Edmund Crouchback; but here alone can we examine the beautiful effigy of (), daughter of William de Fortibus, Earl of Albemarle and Holdernesse, the greatest heiress in England in the time of Henry III., when she was married in the Abbey to his younger son, Edmund Crouchback, in . She is dressed in a flowing mantle, but wears the disfiguring gorget of white cambric, with a vizor for the face, which was fashionable at the time, as a female imitation of the helmets of the crusading knights.

The splendour of such works, when the gilding and emblazoning were fresh, may easily be imagined; but it may be a question whether they do not make a stronger appeal to the sentiment in their more sombre and subdued colour, than they would if they were in the freshness of their original decoration.

On the right, nearest the altar, are the sedilia shown as the tomb of Sebert and Ethelgoda, noticed from the southern aisle. They were once decorated with

She was,

a lady of right commendable regard, courteous, gentle, a good housekeeper, and very bountiful to her servants.

Not

one

of Henry's wives had a monument,

except Anne of Cleves, and hers but half a

one

.

the oldest contemporary representation of an English sovereign

That beautiful picture of a king sighing,

crowned in a chaire of estate, at the upper end of the quire in this church, is said to be of Richard II., which witnesseth how goodly a creature he was in outward lineaments.

Was this face the face That every day under his household roof Did keep ten thousand men? Was this the face That, like the sun, did make beholders wink? Was this the face that fac'd so many follies, And was at last out-fac'd by Bolingbroke? A brittle glory shineth in this face. Richard II., Act. iv. sc. I.

A piece of tapestry now hangs here which was brought from School; the tapestries which adorned the choir in the century represented the story of Hugolin and the robber.[n.345.1] 

In this choir was the scene of a crime which recalls the murder of Becket in Canterbury Cathedral. knights, Schakell and Hawle, who fought with the Black Prince in Spain, had taken prisoner a Spanish Count, whom they compelled to the duties of a valet. The delivery of this prisoner was demanded by John of Gaunt, who claimed the crown of Castile in right of his wife. The knights refused, and fled into sanctuary. Thither Sir Alan Buxhall, Constable of the Tower, and Sir Ralph Ferrars, with armed men, pursued them. For greater safety the knights fled into the very choir itself, where high-mass was being celebrated; but as the deacon reached the words in the gospel of the day,

If the good man of the house had known what time the thief would appear,

A door at the eastern angle of Poets' Corner is the approach to the noble under the Chapter House. It has a short massive round pillar in the centre, from which simple groins radiate over the roof. The pillar has cavities supposed to have been used as hiding-places for treasures of the church. small windows give light to the crypt. On the east is a recess for an altar, with an ambrey on side and a piscina on the other.

The southern bay of the South Transept was formerly partitioned off as the . Dort mentions that its entrance was

enclosed with

three

doors, the inner cancellated, the middle, which is very thick, lined with skins like parchment, and driven full of nails. These skins, they, by tradition, tell us, were some skins of the Danes, tanned and given here as a memorial of our delivery from them.

Beneath the monument of Oliver Goldsmith is the entrance to the , which is a very lofty and picturesque chamber, half passage, half chapel. An enormous buttress following the line of the pillars in the transept cuts off the tracery of the arches on the south. At the western end is a kind of bridge, by which the monks descended from the dormitory, entering the church by a winding staircase, which was probably

Me, quem culpa gravis premit, erige Virgo suavis;

Fac mihi placatum Christum, deleasque reatum,

From hence (if the door is open [n.347.2] ) we can enter the beautiful portico leading from the cloisters to the Chapter House, finished in ; the original paving remains; it is deeply worn by the feet of the monks. Here () is buried, who died of the plague called the Black Death, with of his monks. Here also a group of persons connected with the earliest history of the abbey were buried-King Sebert and Queen Ethelgoda (or Actelgod), who lay here before they were moved to the choir, with Ricula, the king's sister; Hugolin, the treasurer of Edward the Confessor; Edwin, the abbot; and Sulcardus, the monk who was the historian of the abbey.[n.347.3]  Flete gives the epitaph which hung over Edwin's grave-

Iste locellus habet bina cadavera claustro; Uxor Seberti, prima tamen minima; Defracta capitis test, clarus Hugolinus A claustro noviter hic translatus erat; Abbas Edvinus et Sulcardus canobita; Sulcardus major est.-Deus assit eis.

On the left of the steps is a Roman stone coffin bearing an inscription saying that it was made for Valerius Amandinus by his sons. A Maltese cross on the lid and traces of a cope show that it was afterwards appropriated for an ecclesiastic. It was found near the north side of the Chapter House.

The of , which is the largest in England except that of Lincoln, was built by Henry III. in , upon the ancient crypt of the Chapter House of Edward the Confessor. Matthew Paris () says of Henry III.,

Dominus Rex aedificavit capitulum incomparabile,

Here the monks, at least once a week, assembled to hold their chapters, in which all the affairs of the monastery were discussed. The abbot and the chief officers took their seats in the ornamented stalls opposite the entrance, the monks on the stone benches round. In front of the stalls criminals were tried, and, if found guilty, were publicly flogged against the central pillar of Purbeck marble ( ft. high), which was used as a whipping-post.

But the monks had not sole possession of the Chapter House, for, as early as , when the Houses of Lords and Commons were separated, the began to hold its sittings here, and for years it continued to hold them, sometimes in the Refectory, but generally in the Chapter House. This chamber has therefore witnessed the principal acts which have been the foundation of the civil and religious liberties of England.

The last Parliament which sate here was on the last day of the life of Henry VIII., when the act of attainder was passed on the Duke of Norfolk, and here, while it was sitting, must the news have been brought in that the terrible king was dead.

Within the Chapter House must have passed the first Clergy Discipline Act, the first Clergy Residence Act, and, chief of all, the Act of Supremacy and the Act of Submission. Here, to acquiesce in that Act, met the Convocation of the Province of Canterbury. On the table in this Chapter House must have been placed the famous Black Book, which sealed the fate of all the monasteries of England, including the Abbey of Westminster close by, and which struck such a thrill of horror through the House of Commons when they heard its contents.-Dean Stanley.

The Chapter House passed to the Crown at the dissolution of the monastery, and years afterwards the removed to Chapel in the palace of . From that time the Chapter House was used as Record Office, and its walls were disfigured and its space blocked up by bookcases. In the Records were removed to the Rolls House, and the

The Chapter House is now almost in its pristine beauty. The roof is rebuilt. All the windows have been restored from the specimen which remained intact. They are remarkable for their early introduction of quatrefoils, and are shown by the bills to have been completed in , before the completion of the Sainte Chapelle in Paris, which is the same in style. Over the entrance is a throned figure of the Saviour, replacing which is known to have existed there: the figures at the sides, representing the Annunciation, are ancient, and, though stiff, are admirable. Many of the ancient wall-paintings are preserved. Those at the east end, representing the Seraphs around the Throne--on which our Lord is seated with hands held up and chest bared to show the sacred wounds--are of the century. The niches on either side of the central are occupied by winged Cherubim, the feathers of their wings having peacock's eyes, to carry out the idea,

they are full of eyes within.

A glass-case is filled with ancient deeds belonging to the history of the abbey-including a grant of Offa, King of the Mercians, ; and of King Edgar, -; and the

The are of different dates, from the time of the Confessor to that of Edward III. The central space was a burial-ground for the monks. The abbots were buried in the arcades, but these were also a centre of monastic life, and in the western cloister the Master of the Novices kept a school

which was the

first

beginning of

Westminster

School.

lavatory,

The approach to the Abbey through these gloomy monastic remains prepares the mind for its solemn contemplation. The cloisters still retain something of the quiet and seclusion of former days. The grey walls are discoloured by damp, and crumbling with age: a coat of hoary moss has gathered over the inscriptions of the several monuments, and obscured the death's-heads and other funereal emblems. The roses which adorned the keystones have lost their leafy beauty: everything bears marks of the gradual dilapidation of time, which yet has something touching and pleasing in its very decay.-Washington Irving. The Sketch Book.

In the (built in the and centuries) the great feature is the beautiful double door of the Chapter House. The mouldings of the outer arch are decorated with small figures on either side, in niches formed by waving foliage, of which the stem springs from the lowest figure-probably Jesse. The tympanum is covered with exquisite scroll-work, terribly injured by time, and has a mutilated statue of the Virgin and Child, with angels on either side.

In this wall, just to the south of the entrance of the Chapter House, is the iron-bound entrance to the . It is a double door opened by keys, and till lately could only be unlocked by a special order from the Lords Commissioners of the Treasury --the permission of the Secretary of the Treasury, the Chancellor of the Exchequer, and the Comptroller of the

the Trial of the Pyx

Hither were brought the most cherished possessions of the State: the Regalia of the Saxon monarchy; the Black Rood of St. Margaret ( the Holy Cross of Holyrood ) from Scotland; the Crocis Gneyth (or the Cross of St. Neot) from Wales, deposited here by Edward I.; the Sceptre or Rod of Moses; the Ampulla of Henry IV.; the sword with which King Athelstane cut through the rock at Dunbar; the sword of Wayland Smith, by which Henry II. was knighted; the sword of Tristan, presented to John by the Emperor; the dagger which wounded Edward I. at Acre; the iron gauntlet worn by John of France when taken prisoner at Poitiers.-Dean Stanley.

The Regalia were kept here in the time of the Commonwealth, and Henry Marten was intrusted with the duty of investigating them. He dragged the crown, sword, sceptre, &c. from their chest and put them on George Wither, the poet, who,

being thus crowned and royally arrayed,

first

marched about the room with a stately garb, and afterwards, with a

thousand

apish and ridiculous actions, exposed those sacred ornaments to contempt and laughter.

In the bay of the Confessor's work is a narrow space under the staircase which now leads to the Library. This was the original approach to the Treasury, and here, bound by iron bars against the door, are still to be seen fragments of a human skin. It is that of of the robbers who were flayed alive in the reign of Henry III. for attempting to break into the chapel and carry off the royal treasure. In this narrow passage the ornamentation of the capital of the Saxon column has been completed. Thousands of MSS. connected with the abbey have been recently discovered here imbedded in the rubbish with which the floor was piled up.

In the cloister, near the Treasury door, is the monument of , , with an epitaph by Pope. Beyond the entrance of the Chapter House a small tablet commemorates , . Close by is the interesting monument erected by his brother to , murdered in (see Chapter I.). The licentious authoress or (sent as a spy to Antwerp by Charles II. during the Dutch war) was buried near the end of the cloister in . Her blue gravestone is inscribed-

Here lies a proof that wit can never be

Defence enough against mortality.

Jane Lister

, dear childe,

1688

,

In the (of the century) is the monument , ,

who served the royal familie viz. King Charles II. and King James II. with

approved fidelity above

fifty

years.

With diligence and trvst most exemplary, Did William Lavrence serve a Prebendary. And for his paines now past, before not lost, Gain'd this remembrance at his master's cost.

O read these lines againe; you seldome find, A servant faithfvll, and a master kind.

Short hand he wrote; his flowre in prime did fade. And hasty Death Short-hand of him hath made. Well covlh he numbers, and well mesur'd Land; Thus doth he now that grov'd whereon you stand, Wherein he lyes so geometricall: Art maketh some, but thus will Nature all. Obijt Decem. 28, 1621, AEtatis sum. 29.

Close by is the grave of , Dean of and Archbishop of York ().

In the (of the century) are the monuments of , brother to Sidney, Earl of Godolphin, ; and , , musician and organist, with his

canon

incisor excellentissimus,

The ( century) was the burial-place of all the abbots down to the time of Henry III. Here (beginning from the east) are buried Postard, Crispin, Herbert, Vitalis (appointed by the Conqueror), Gislebert (with an effigy), Gervase (a natural son of King Stephen), and Hermez. Several of their effigies remain. The blue slab called is supposed to cover the remains of the

the Black Death

Sarah, Duchess of Marlborough, used to sit in these cloisters dressed as a beggar, in her poignant grief for the loss of her son. The Duchess of Portland relates that her husband saw her there when he was a boy at School.

Over the eastern cloister was the , whence the monks descended to the midnight services in the church by the gallery in the south transept. It is now divided between the Chapter Library and School.

The (reached from a door on the right of that leading to the Chapter House) was founded by Dean Williams in . Many of the books are valuable, and some of the bindings, of the and centuries, are exceedingly curious and beautiful. The room is that described by Washington Irving.

I found myself in a lofty antique hall, the roof supported by massive joists of old English oak. It was soberly lighted by a row of Gothic windows at a considerable height from the floor, and which apparently opened upon the roof of the cloisters. An ancient picture, of some reverend dignitary of the church in his robes,

Dean Williams, 1649-50.

hung over the

fireplace. Around the hall and in a small gallery were the books, arranged in carved oaken cases. They consisted principally of old polemical writers, and were much more worn by time than use. In the centre of the Library was a solitary table, with

two

or

three

books on it, an inkstand without ink, and a few pens parched by long disuse. The place seemed fitted for quiet study and meditation. It was buried deep among the massive walls of the Abbey, and shut up from the tumult of the world. I could only hear now and then the shouts of the schoolboys faintly swelling from the Cloisters, and the sound of a bell tolling for prayers, that echoed soberly along the roof of the Abbey. By degrees the shouts of merriment grew fainter and fainter, and at length died away. The bell ceased to toll, and a profound silence reigned through the dusky hall.

At the southern end of the east cloister was the , probably destroyed when the Little Cloister was built, but shown by the fragments, which still exist, to be of the age of the Confessor. It was so arranged that the sick monks could hear the services in the adjoining Chapel of St. Catherine.

Hither came the processions of the Convent to see the sick brethren; and were greeted by a blazing fire in the Hall, and long rows of candles in the Chapel. Here, although not only here, were conducted the constant bleedings of the monks. Here, in the Chapel, the young monks were privately whipped. Here the invalids were soothed by music. Here also lived the seven playfellows (sympectae), the name given to the elder monks, who, after the age of fifty, were exempted from all the ordinary regulations, were never told anything unpleasant, and themselves took the liberty of examining and censuring everything.-Dean Stanley.

A passage (left) called the , and a turn to the left under waggon-vaulting of the Confessor's time--a substructure of the Dormitory--lead to the , a square arcaded court with a fountain in the centre. At its south-eastern corner are remains of the ancient bell-tower of Chapel, built by Abbot Littlington.

Hence we may reach the Infirmary Garden, now the , a large open space, whence there is a noble view of the Abbey and the Victoria Tower. On the north side of this was Chapel (the chapel of the Infirmary), destroyed in , which bore a great part in the monastic story.[n.358.1]  Here most of the consecrations of Bishops before the Reformation took place, with the greater part of the provincial councils of . Here Henry III., in the presence of the archbishop and bishops, swore to observe the Magna Charta. Here also the memorable struggle took place () between the Archbishops of Canterbury and York, which led to the question of their precedence being decided by a papal edict, giving to the title of Primate of all England, to the other that of Primate of England.

A synod was called at Westminster, the pope's legate being present thereat; on whose right sat Richard, Archbishop of Canterbury, as in his proper place; when in springs Roger of York, and finding Canterbury so seated, fairly sits him down on Canterbury's lap; (a baby too big to be danced thereon!) yea, Canterbury's servants dandled this lap-child with a witness, who plucked him thence, and buffeted him to purpose.-Fuller's Church History.

A winding staircase in the cloister wall, opposite the entrance to the Chapter House, leads to the , a gallery above what should have been the west aisle of the South Transept, cut off by the cloister. Here, on the plastered wall, is a great outline painting of the White Hart, the badge of Richard II. The archives of the Abbey are

Bradshaw's rack.

which resounded with the passionate

appeals, at

one

time of Baxter, Howe, and Owen, at other times of Heylin, Williams, South, and Barrow.

At the end of the southern cloister, on the right, was the , now the The dining-room, where Sir J. Reynolds was the frequent guest of Dr. Markham, contains several interesting portraits of historic deans. Behind the bookcases of the library a secret chamber was discovered in , supposed to be that in which Abbot William of Colchester, to whose guardianship suspected dukes and earls had been intrusted by Henry IV., plotted with them () for the restoration of Richard II. Shakspeare gives the scene. It was probably in this secret chamber that Richard Fiddes was concealed and supplied with materials for writing that which was intended to vilify the Reformation. Here also, perhaps, Francis Atterbury, the most eminent of the deans--the furious Jacobite who, on the death of Queen Anne, prepared to go in lawn sleeves to proclaim James III. at Charing Cross--entered into those plots for which he was sent to the Tower and exiled.

During the Commonwealth the Deanery was leased to

On the other side of the picturesque little court in front of the Deanery is the Abbot's Refectory, now the , where the scholars dine. Till the time of Dean Buckland (-) the hall was only warmed by a brazier, of which the smoke escaped through the louvre in the roof. The huge tables of chestnut-wood are said to have been presented by Elizabeth from the wrecks of the Spanish Armada. Here probably it was--in the

Abbot's Place

all desolate and dismayed,

Through the little court of the Deanery is the approach to , built by Abbot Littlington between and as a guest-chamber for the Abbot's House. It probably derived its after-name from tapestry pictures of the History of Jerusalem with which it was hung. Here, in the ancient chamber where Convocation now holds its meetings, Henry IV. died of apoplexy, , thus fulfilling the prophecy that he should die in Jerusalem.

In this year, was a great council holden at the White Friars of London, by the which it was among other things concluded, that for the king's great journey that he intended to take, in visiting of the Holy Sepulchre of our Lord, certain galleys of war should be made and other perveance concerning the same journey. Whereupon all hasty and possible speed was made; but after the feast of Christmas, while he was making his prayers at St. Edward's shrine. to take there his leave, and so to speed him on his journey, he became so sick, that such as were about him feared that he would have died right there; wherefore they, for his comfort, bare him into the abbot's place, and lodged him in a chamber, and there upon a pallet laid him before the fire, where he lay in great agony . certain time. At length, when he was coming to himself, not knowing where he was, he freyned (asked) of such as then were about him, what place that was; the which shewed to him that it belonged unto the abbot of Westminster; and for he felt himself so sick, he commanded to ask if that chamber had any special name; whereunto it was answered, that it was named Jerusalem. Then said the king, Praise be to the Father of Heaven, for now I know I shall die in this chamber, according to the prophecy of me before-said, that I should die in Jerusalem ; and so after he made himself ready, and died shortly after, upon the day of St. Cuthbert.-Fabyan's Chronicle.

Shakspeare gives the last words of Henry IV.

King HenryDoth any name particular belong Unto the lodging where I first did swoon? Warwick.'Tis called Jerusalem, my noble lord. King HenryLaud be to God!-even there my life must end. It hath been prophesied to me many years, I should not die but in Jerusalem; Which vainly I supposed the Holy Land : But bear me to that chamber; there I'll lie; In that Jerusalem shall Harry die. 2 Henry IV Act iv. sc. 4.

Here Addison () and Congreve () lay in state before their burial in the Abbey.

As the warmth of the chamber drew a king there to die, so it attracted the Assembly, in , perished with the cold of sitting in Henry VII.'s Chapel, which held no less than sessions, lasting through more than years and a half,

to establish a new platform of worship and discipline to their nation for all time to come.

Out of these walls came the Directory, the Longer and Shorter Catechism, and that famous Confession of Faith which, alone within these Islands, was imposed by law on the whole kingdom ; and which, alone of all Protestant Confessions, still,--in spite of its sternness and narrowness, retains a hold on the minds of its adherents to which its fervour and its logical coherence in some measure entitle it.-Dean Stanley.

The chief existing decorations of this beautiful old chamber are probably due to Dean Williams in the-time of James I., but the painted glass is more ancient. The panelling is of cedar-wood. The tapestry is mostly of the time of Henry VIII. Over the chimney-piece is a picture of the death of Henry IV.

From the Deanery a low archway leads into , once called

The Elms,

the Calberge.

In the green space in the centre of the yard an exhibition of

the results of Window Gardening

On the east is a beautiful vaulted passage and picturesque gate of Abbot Littlington's time, leading to the groined entrance of . The tower above the gate is probably that which is known as

the Blackstole Tower.

In its present form the Schoolroom is a noble and venerable chamber. The timber roof is of oak, not chestnut as generally represented. The upper part of the walls and the recesses of the windows are covered with

Fourth

Form Room

shell

shell-forms,

High up, across the middle of the Schoolroom, an iron bar divides the Upper and Lower Schools. Over this bar, by an ancient custom, the college cook or her deputy tosses a stiffly-made Pancake on Shrove Tuesday. The boys, on the other side of the bar, struggle to catch it, and if any boy can not only catch it but convey it away intact from all competitors to the head-master's house (a difficult feat) he can claim a guinea. In former days a curtain, hanging from this bar, separated the schools.

Every one, who is acquainted with Westminster-school, knows that there is a curtain which used to be drawn across the room, to separate the upper school from the lower. A youth (Wake, father of Archbishop Wake) happened, by some mischance, to tear the above-mentioned curtain. The severity of the master (Dr. Busby) was too well known for the criminal to expect any pardon for such a fault; so that the boy, who was of a meek temper, was terrified to death at the thoughts of his appearance, when his friend who sate next to him bade him be of good cheer, for that he would take the fault on himself. He kept his word accordingly. As soon as they were grown up to be men, the civil war broke out, in which our two friends took the opposite sides; one of them followed the parliament, the other the royal party. As their tempers were different, the youth who had torn the curtain endeavoured to raise himself on the civil list, and the other, who had borne the blame of it, on the military. The first succeeded so well that he was in a short time made a judge under the protector. The other was engaged in the unhappy enterprise of Penruddock and Groves in the West. Every one knows that the royal party was routed, and all the heads of them, among whom was the curtain champion, imprisoned at Exeter. It happened to be his friend's lot at that time to go the western circuit. The trial of the rebels, as they were then called, was very short, and nothing now remained but to pass sentence on them; when the judge hearing the name of his old friend, and observing his face more attentively, asked him if he was not formerly a Westminster scholar? By the answer, he was soon convinced that it was his former generous friend; and without saying anything more at that time, made the best of his way to London, where employing all his power and interest with the protector, he saved his friend from the fate of his unhappy associates.--Spectator, No. 313.

There is a bust of Dr. Busby in the adjoins the schoolroom; and a bust of Sir Francis Burdett, given by the Baroness Burdett Coutts, with a relief representing his leaving the Traitors' Gate of the Tower on the pedestal. There are about boys at School, but of these only are on the foundation; they sleep in (partitions of the) which was built along side of the College Garden in from designs of Boyle, Earl of Burlington. In this Dormitory the -Latin Plays of Plautus or Terence superseding the Catholic Mysteries are acted by the boys on the Thursday in December,

The most eminent of have been Camden and Dr. Busby. Among have been Bishop Overall, translator of the Bible; Hakluyt (Canon of ), the collector of voyages; the poets Herbert, Cowley (who published a volume of poems while he was at school here), Dryden, Prior, Stepney, Rowe, Churchill, and

Vinny Bourne

On the north of , occupying the site of part of the monastic building known as

the Misericorde,

The precincts of the Monastery extended far beyond those of the College and were entered (where the Royal Aquarium now stands) by a double Gatehouse of the time of Edward III., which served also as a gaol. of its chambers was used as an ecclesiastical prison, the other was the common prison of , the prisoners being brought by way of Thieving Lane and , to prevent their escaping by entering the liberties of sanctuary. Nicholas Vaux died here of cold and starvation in , a martyr in the cause of Roman Catholicism. Hence Lady Purbeck, imprisoned for adultery in , escaped to France in a man's dress. It was here that Sir Walter Raleigh passed the night before his execution and wrote on the blank leaf of his Bible the lines--

Ev'n such is Time, that takes on trust

Our youth, our joys, our all we have,

And pays us but with age and dust,

Who in the dark and silent grave,

When we have wandered all our ways,

Shuts up the story of our days.

But from this earth, this grave, this dust,

The Lord shall raise me up I trust.

Stone walls doe not a prison make Nor iron barres a cage; Minds innocent and quiet take That for a hermitage. If I have freedom in my love, And in my soule am free, Angels alone that soar above Enjoy such libertie.

Within the Gatehouse, on the left, where the now stands, stood

the Sanctuary

sowered all the drink in the town.

Thieving Lane

The family of Edward IV. twice sought a refuge here, once in , when the Queen, Elizabeth Woodville, with her mother, and her daughters Elizabeth, Mary, and Cicely, were here as the guests of Abbot Milling, till her son Edward was born on -

commonly called Edward V., though his hand was

asked

but never

married

to the English crown.

And therewithal she said unto the child, Farewell, my-own sweet son, God send you good keeping, let me kiss you once yet ere you go, for God knoweth when we shall kiss together again, and therewith she kissed him and blessed him, and turned her back and went her way, leaving the ehild weeping as fast.-Sir T. More's Life of Richard III.

It struck to her heart like the dart of death; she was so suddenly amazed that she swooned and fell to the ground, and lay there in great agony like to a dead corpse. And after she was revived, and came to her memory again, she wept and sobbed, and with pitiful screeches

filled the whole mansion. Her breast she beat, her fair hair she tore and pulled in pieces, and calling by name her sweet babes, accounted herself mad when she delivered her younger son out of sanctuary for his uncle to put him to death. After long lamentation, she kneeled down and cried to God to take vengeance,

who

she said,

she nothing doubted would remember it.

Skelton, the Poet Laureate of Henry VII., who wrote the lament for Edward IV.-

Oh Lady Bessee! long for me may ye call,

For I am departed till domesday--

Within the precincts, to the right on passing the Gatehouse (where the Palace Hotel now stands), was the , possessing an endowment for male pensioners from Henry VII., and for females from his mother, the Countess of Richmond. chapels were connected with it, of which was commemorated in the name of . It was in the that William Caxton's printing-press was established. He had previously worked in Cologne, and it is supposed that he came to England in , when was produced, which is generally supposed to have been his work printed in this country. Gower's and Chaucer's different poems were printed here by Caxton.

We have still left interesting point unvisited which

The interior was evidently refitted by Abbot Littlington, and the exceedingly beautiful vaulted room on the basement story is of his time. The bosses of the roof are curious, especially with a face on every side. A small vaulted room opens out of the larger chamber. The upper chamber of the tower, which has its noble original chestnut roof, is now a small historical museum. Here are some of the old standards of weights and measures-those of Henry VII. being especially curious; the old Exchequer Tallies; Queen Elizabeth's Standard Ell and Yard, &c. Here also are the horseshoes and nails which, by ancient custom, the sheriffs of London are compelled to count when they are sworn in. In the time of Edward II., when this custom was established, it was a proof of education, as only well-instructed men could count up to . At the same time it was ordained that the sheriff, in proof

There is a noble view of the Abbey from the platform on the top of the Tower. It will scarcely be credited by those who visit it, that the destruction of this interesting building is in contemplation, and that the present century, for the sake of making a

regular

[n.322.1] It would scarcely be believed from his works that Cheere was the master of Roubiliac.

[n.340.1] See Smith's Life of Nollekens.

[n.342.1] D'Israeli, Curiosities of Literature, vol. iv.

[n.343.1] Professor Westmacott.

[n.344.1] Katherine Parr, buried at Sudeley Castle, has a modern monument of the greatest beauty.

[n.345.1] See Weever, Funeral Monuments.

[n.347.1] Sir G. Scott's Gleanings.

[n.347.2] If not, go round by Dean's Yard to the Cloister.

[n.347.3] His MS. is in the Cottonian Library.

[n.350.1] See Sir G. Scott's Gleanings from Westminster Abbey.

[n.352.1] The Pyx is the box in which the specimen pieces are kept at the Mint-pixis from pyxos a box-tree,

[n.353.1] Wood's Ath. iii. 1239.

[n.358.1] It had a nave and aisle of five bays long, and a chancel, and was of good late Norman work.

[n.360.1] Dean Stanley.

[n.369.1] He was painted by Vandyck, and is described by Scott in Peveril of the Peak.

[n.369.2] Johnson's Life of Savage.

[n.369.3] See Southey's Doctor, vii. 354.

[n.370.1] Fuller's Worthies.