Old and New London, A Narrative of its History, its People and its Places.Illustrated with Numerous Engravings from the Most Authentic Sources. vol 6
The parish of Fulham, upon which we now enter, lies in Middlesex, about miles south-west from , and covers a large extent of ground, the greater part of which, down to comparatively recent times, was laid out as marketgardens; and the parish still contributes largely to the daily supply of Covent Garden. Originally, Fulham was much larger than now, for it included Hammersmith within its limits; and even at the present time it has an area of nearly acres. Antiquaries have differed as to the origin of the name of Fulham; but the usual, and perhaps most probable, derivation is from the Saxon
which means the resort or habitation of birds. It was so called, it is supposed, from the abundance of water-fowl found here, and it would be difficult to imagine a place more fitted for the resort of such birds than Fulham must have been before the river was embanked, when the land for some distance from the stream was a mere swamp, and, in many places, under water at every high tide. The place, we are also told,
Camden, in his
derives the name from the Saxon word
Norden agrees with this etymology, and adds,
In Sommer's and Lye's Saxon Dictionaries it is called , or
It is Pennant's opinion that as far back as the days of the Romans
The parish of Fulham is, or was, separated on the east from by a rivulet, which rises in Wormholt Scrubs, and falls into the Thames opposite to Battersea; on the west it is bounded by Chiswick and Acton; on the north by Hammersmith and Kensington; and its southern boundary is the river Thames. Notwithstanding its distance from London, Fulham is now joined on to the
by lines of houses which extend along the high road on either side. Near the entrance to the village, by the , there are
|several antiquated-looking family mansions, standing in their own grounds, and almost shut in from observation by stately elms and cedars. The , which branches off at right angles towards the bridge, has the dull, sleepy aspect of a quiet country town: many of the quaint old red-brick houses, with high-tiled roofs, carry the mind of the observer back to times long gone by. As viewed from the Thames, the scene is far different: here we have, on the hand, prim villas embosomed in trees, with lawns and gardens sloping down to the water; and on the other the old parish church, backed by the trees surrounding the palace of the Bishop of London.|
Close by, to the left, on entering Fulham from the bridge, on the spot now occupied by the abutment of the aqueduct, formerly stood Egmont Villa, some time the residence of Theodore Hook, of whom we have already had occasion to speak in our accounts of and Sydenham. It was about the year that Hook, who had been for years the lion of West-end parties, and the wit of all London circles, took up his abode
|here; having got rid of his house in , he became the tenant of a modest cottage close to the bridge, with a small garden sloping towards the river. Here he spent the last years of his life, entertaining politicians, statesmen, men of letters, and even royal dukes, and, in fact, most of those who had idolised him as the accomplished editor of in its early and palmy days.|
As a wit and humourist, and as a diner, Theodore Hook enjoyed a high reputation in his day; but his jokes, on some occasions, took that practical turn which became reprehensible. He had, besides, a happy knack of dining, uninvited, at the houses of strangers. In this he was successful, no less by his unblushing impudence than by his really remarkable powers as an . The following story of his ability in this way has been often told, but will bear repeating :--
Passing day in a gig with a friend by the villa of a retired London watchmaker at Fulham, Hook pulled up, and remarked that
He accordingly alighted, rang the bell, and on being introduced to the gentleman, coolly told him that, as his name was so celebrated, he could not help calling to make his acquaintance! Hook and his friend were invited to stay to dinner, and after spending a jovial afternoon, they set out for home; but on their way thither the gig, owing to their unsteady driving, was nearly smashed to pieces by the refractory horse.
Barham, in his
tells us that a friend once said to Hook, while looking at Putney Bridge from the garden of his villa, that he had been informed that it was a very good investment, and asked him if it really answered.
It is on record that when Sir Robert Peel's administration was formed in the year , the Lord Chamberlain sent immediately for Hook, and offered to him the Inspectorship of Plays, then held by George Colman the younger, in case the ailing veteran could be prevailed upon to resign. The office was perhaps the only which he might have received, without exposing his patrons to disagreeable comment; but their kindness was fruitless. George Colman being an old friend, Hook felt some delicacy in communicating the suggestion to him, and the government was again changed before the negotiation could be cormpleted. Almost immediately afterwards Colman died, and Charles Kemble was appointed in his room; and he again had resigned in favour of his accomplished son before Lord Melbourne's ministry was finally displaced. Their fate was announced on the , but ere then Theodore Hook's hopes and fears were at an end. His death is thus mentioned by Mr. Raikes in his
Theodore Hook's character is summed up by Mr. W. Thornbury, in his
[extra_illustrations.6.506.1] , stands near the river-side, at the end of , and the west side of the churchyard abuts upon the moat which bounds the east side of the palace grounds. It is an ancient stone building, consisting of nave, aisles, and chancel, with a tower at the western end. The edifice is built of stone, but, with the exception of the tower, to a great extent covered with plaster. Bowack, in describing this church in , says:
So far as the body of the fabric is concerned, it has not much architectural beauty. It has been well described as
The large east window, of lights, is filled with stained glass, and or others have also coloured glass in them, in the shape of armorial bearings; but most of the windows are modern, with semi-circular heads, and without tracery. The tower of the church, however, is a feature of which Fulham is deservedly proud. It consists of stages, and, like its twin-sister at Putney, is surmounted by battlements, with a turret rising well above them. The date of its erection is uncertain, but it was probably in the century. It has, however, been restored, and some alterations have been made in its details; the large west window, with flowing tracery, is modern. This tower is remarkable as containing of the finest and softest-toned peals of bells in England; they were cast, or re-cast, by Ruddle, in the middle of the last century. Each bell bears an inscription, more or less appropriate: on
and on the are the words,
observed a Thames waterman, in , to a gentleman whom he was carrying from the Temple to .
was the answer.
Such is part of a dialogue on the Thames as narrated by Mr. J. T. Smith, in his , from which we have frequently quoted.
The monuments both within and without the church are numerous and interesting, notably to John Viscount Mordaunt, the father of the great Lord Peterborough. Lord Mordaunt, who died in , was Constable of Windsor Castle, and his statue here--the work of Francis Bird, who carved the Conversion of St. Paul on the west pediment of Cathedral-represents him in Roman costume, holding a baton in his right hand. Within the communion rails is the effigy of Lady Leigh, who is represented as seated under an arch supported by Corinthian columns; she is holding an infant in her arms, and has another child beside her, habited in the dress of the times. The monument is dated . Bishops Gibson and Porteus are also commemorated by monuments in the church. Several of the Bishops of London lie buried in the churchyard, not in the church itself. The example was set by Dr. Compton, who used to say,
These graves are marked by altar-tombs, for the most part with no other ornamentation than the arms of the diocese of London. Bishop Blomfield, who died in , lies in the new burial-ground, opposite the vicarage. There is a tablet to his memory near the western entrance of the church; it is a plain brass plate, enclosed within a frame of Gothic design. In the churchyard there are other monuments to men of note in our military, naval, and civil annals. In this churchyard, in , Theodore Hook was buried
His executors found that he had died deeply in debt. His books and other effects produced , which sum was, of course, surrendered to the Crown as the privileged creditor. There was some hope that the Lords of the Treasury might grant a gift of this, or some part of it, to his children, who were left wholly unprovided for; but this hope was not realised. A subscription was raised, and the King of Hanover sent ; but few of his old Tory friends aided the widow and orphans with their purse. Such is gratitude!
Among the ornaments of this church is a very handsome service of communion plate. In the report of the commissioners to King Edward VI., in , it is stated that they found in Fulham Church
These still exist, and to them have since been added very handsome silver flagons. It may be added that in this church was consecrated John Sterne, Bishop of Colchester, of the last suffragan bishops who were appointed under the Act of Henry VIII., until the revival of the office in recent times. [extra_illustrations.6.508.1]
Faulkner, in his account of Fulham, mentions fine yew-trees as growing on each side of the principal entrance of the churchyard, and another, very much decayed, on the north side, probably coeval with the church itself.
On the north side of the churchyard are Sir William Powell's Almshouses, founded and endowed in , for poor widows. They were rebuilt in , and again in . The almshouses are built of light brick and stone, of Gothic design, and somewhat profusely ornamented with architectural details.
From the western end of the churchyard a raised pathway, called , leads to the entrance of Fulham Palace. The pathway extends for about a quarter of a mile along the river-side, and has on the right the moat and grounds of the palace, and on the left the raised bank of the Thames.
The of Fulham-or, as it is now called, [extra_illustrations.6.508.2] -has been the summer residence of the Bishops of London for more than centuries. The present structure is a large but dull and uninteresting brick building, with no pretension to architectural effect. The house and grounds, comprising some acres, are surrounded by a moat, over which are bridges, of which, a draw-bridge, separates the gardens from the churchyard. The principal entrance, which is situated on the west side, is approached from the under a fine avenue of limes and through an arched gateway. The building consists of courts or quadrangles; the oldest part dates from the time of Henry VII., when it was built by Bishop Fitzjames, whose arms, impaling those of the see of London, appear on the wall and over the gateway. [extra_illustrations.6.508.3] , the principal apartment in the great quadrangle, is immediately opposite the entrance. As an inscription over the chimney-piece states, it was erected, as well as the adjoining courtyard, by Fitzjames, on the site of a former palace, which was as old as the Conquest. It was completed by Bishop Fletcher, father of the dramatist, in ; used as a hall by Bishop Bonner and Bishop Ridley during the struggles of the Reformation, and retained its original proportions till it was altered in the reign of George II., by Bishop Sherlock, whose arms, carved in wood, appear over the fire-place. Bishop Howley, in the reign of George IV., changed it into a private unconsecrated chapel; but it was restored to its original purposes as a hall in the year , on the erection by Bishop Tait-now Archbishop of Canterbury--of a new chapel of more suitable dimensions. The hall is a good-sized room, and contains in the windows the arms of the Bishops of London; it is wainscoted all round, and has a carved screen at end. Upon the walls hang portraits of Henry VII., George II., Queen Anne, Queen Mary II., William III., Henry VIII., James II., Charles I., and Cromwell, besides full-length pictures-- representing Margaret of Anjou, and the other Thomas a Becket.
[extra_illustrations.6.508.4] , which is on the south-west side of the older portion of the palace, is a small brickbuilt edifice, erected at the cost of Bishop Tait, from the designs of Mr. Butterfield, and consecrated in . Externally the building has little or no architectural pretensions; but the interior is finished and fitted up in the regular orthodox manner, the chief ornamental feature being an elaborate mosaic reredos, representing the adoration of the shepherds at Bethlehem; it was executed by Salviati from designs by Mr. Butterfield.
of the most interesting rooms in the palace is the [extra_illustrations.6.508.5] , which contains an extensive collection of books, gathered by the divine whose name it bears; it has a large window opening upon the lawn and overlooking the river. Some thousands of volumes, mostly on theological and religious subjects, fill up its ample shelves. There are collections of sermons in abundance, commentaries on the gospels, black-letter Bibles, and a large number of theological works. All around suggests meditation and repose. On side of the room the windows are emblazoned with the armorial bearings of the different prelates, and on its walls hang the portraits of all the Bishops of London since the Reformation.
writes Bishop Blomfield's son in the Life of his father-
The great drawing-room and the dining-room are large and handsome apartments on the east side of the palace, with windows looking out upon the lawn and gardens. This part of the building dates from the time of Bishop Terrick, who was appointed to the see in . It has since been considerably altered and repaired at different times. It is a long, plain brick structure of storeys, its only ornamentation being an embattled summit.
The palace was considerably altered in appearance early in the last century. Bishop Robinson, in , presented a petition to the Archbishop of Canterbury, stating that
In consequence of this petition, as Lysons tells us, certain commissioners (among whom were Sir John Vanbrugh and Sir Christopher Wren) were appointed to examine the premises. The purport of their report was, that
These being adjudged sufficient for the use of the bishop and his successors, a licence was granted to pull down the other buildings; and this, it appears, was carried into effect. The present kitchen is on the north side of the great quadrangle; it is a large high-pitched room, and the ceiling is enriched with stucco ornamentation of an ancient character.
From the low situation of the palace and grounds, nuch inconvenience is at times felt when the rhames overflows its banks. A notable instance of this occurred in , when considerable damage was occasioned. In some of the rooms of the palace the flooring was upheaved and destroyed by the force of the water, whilst a very large part of the palace grounds was flooded for several days.
are of great antiquity, and have been famous for their beauty and scientific culture since the time of Bishop Grindall, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. It appears that Grindall got himself into some trouble by sending some fine grapes to the queen, with whom they disagreed, and the bishop was accused of having the plague in his house, an accusation which he disproved.
According to Fuller's
it was Grindall who imported the tamarisk into this country. This tree, writes Fuller,
The great gardener of the palace, however, was Bishop Compton, who was banished to Fulham by James II., and remained in the place for years, attending specially to his garden. In this he planted many exotics and trees from other countries, then almost unknown in England. A great cork-tree, now much decayed, but at time the largest in England, and also a large ilex, are traditionally said to have been planted by his hands. Bishop Blomfield planted a cedar of Lebanon, which is now a fine tree, though, comparatively speaking but a few years old; but it can scarcely be said to rival its elder sisters.
The grounds of the palace are remarkable for the thickness with which the trees are planted. bishop having thinned them considerably, Lord Bacon wittily told him that
It may be added that Sir William Watson, who made a botanical survey of the grounds a years ago, speaks of this garden in the following terms, in a report to the Royal Society :--
Fond as Evelyn was of gardening, as we have already shown in our account of Saye's Court, Deptford, it is not surprising that we find him a visitor here. In his
under date of , he writes :--
Among the curiosities at time to be seen in the palace was a whetstone, which was placed there by Bishop Porteus under somewhat singular circumstances. The story, showing the bishop's success in a
is thus told in the
The manor of Fulham, we may here state, is of the oldest in England, having been granted in , by the Bishop of Hereford, to Bishop Erkenwald, of London, so that it has existed as an appanage of the see for upwards of years. This manor was originally held by service of prayers and masses for the dead; but at a later period military service was exacted from all holders of manors. The only service now required from the Bishop of London is the maintenance of a watchman to guard the garden and grounds. There is every reason to believe that the manorhouse here was occupied at the time of the Conquest; but the mention of this was in the account of the capture of Robert de Sigillo, Bishop of London, who was a partisan of the Empress Maud, and was made prisoner and held to ransom by the followers of Stephen. Bishop Richard de Gravesend resided much at Fulham, and died here in . His successor, Richard Baldock, who was Lord Chancellor of England, dates most of his public acts from Fulham Palace; but Bishop Braybroke, who enjoyed the same high office, and presided over the see of London nearly years, seems to have spent but little of his time at this place, as he resided mostly at Stepney. Lysons, in his
This poem, called
was printed at the Earl of Oxford's private press at Strawberry Hill. deprived bishop of the English Church, John Byrde (who was the last
of the Carmelites, and afterwards became Bishop of Chester), seems to have found an asylum with Bonner, and was living with him at Fulham in .
says Anthony Wood, in his
Bishop Aylmer, or Elmer, was principally resident at Fulham Palace, where he died in . The zeal with which he supported the interests of the Established Church exposed him to the resentment of the Puritans, who, among other methods which they took to injure the bishop, attempted to prejudice the queen against him, alleging that he had committed great waste at Fulham by cutting down the elms; and, punning upon his name, they gave him the appellation of Bishop Mar-elm;
Fulham Palace has been honoured with the presence of royalty on several occasions. Norden says that Henry III. often lay there. Bishop Bancroft here received a visit from Queen Elizabeth in , and another years later. King James likewise visited him previously to his coronation. In , Charles I. and his queen dined here with Bishop Mountaigne.
During the Civil Wars we find that most of the principal inhabitants of Fulham, as might have been expected, were staunch Royalists. of the most prominent was the Bishop (Juxon) who attended his royal master on the scaffold, and to whom the king addressed his last mysterious word,
Juxon was deprived of his see, and the manor and palace of Fulham were sold to Colonel Edward Harvey, in . The bishop then retired to his own house at Compton, in Gloucestershire, where he had the singular good fortune to remain undisturbed until the Restoration. With reference to this fact, old Fuller quaintly remarks:--
It should be mentioned here that a large tithe-barn which stands in the palace grounds was built by Colonel Harvey during his temporary tenure of the place under the Commonwealth. On a beam over the doors is carved the date, .
The moat which encompasses the palace grounds is about a mile in circumference, and has been considered by some antiquaries to have been formed by the Danish army, when they were encamped in this neighbourhood in . Mr. Blomfield, in his
Enveloped as its origin is in mystery, it is certain, from existing documents, that this moat has been the subject of various disputes, and a cause of annoyance, or at least of discomfort, to many successive bishops. In , Dr. Edwardes, Chancellor of the diocese of London, left ,
Before this, the water was never changed; the moat was only filled by the water which filtered in through the banks, and stood stagnant from years' end to years' end. After the formation of the sluice, the water was changed once a month. To cleanse this immense moat, to make additional sluices, to replace the river embankments, to raise by several feet a water-meadow of many acres, to renew all the fences, and to put the whole of a neglected estate into a condition of perfect order, appeared in Bishop Blomfield's eyes a duty laid upon him as a trustee of Church property, and in the discharge of that duty he spent as much as .
At a short distance westward of the palace stands Craven Cottage, a charming retreat by the waterside. It was originally built for the Countess of Craven, afterwards Margravine of Anspach, but has been considerably altered and enlarged by subsequent proprietors. After the Margravine, the cottage was for some years the residence of Mr. Denis O'Brien, the friend of Charles James Fox, and in it was sold to.a Sir Robert Barclay. Mr. Walsh Porter, who was its next occupant, is said to have spent a large sum in altering and embellishing it. About it became the residence of Sir E. Bulwer Lytton. He was living here in , when he entertained Prince Louis Napoleon at dinner, after his then recent escape from the fortress of Ham. The house was at time the residence of a celebrated moneylender, who was generally known as
He was, as Captain Gronow tells us, in his amusing
a man of some talent, and had good taste in the fine arts. He had made the peerage a complete study, knew the exact position of every who was connected with a coronet, the value of his property, how deeply the estates were mortgaged, and what encumbrances weighed upon them. Nor did his knowledge stop there; by dint of sundry kind attentions to the clerks of the leading banking-houses, fhe was aware of the balances they kept, and the credit attached to their names, so that, to the surprise of the borrower, he let him into the secrets of his own actual position. He gave excellent dinners, at which many of the highest personages of the realm were present; and when they fancied that they were about to meet individuals whom it would be upon their conscience to recognise elsewhere, were not a little amused to find clients quite as highly placed as themselves, and with purses quite as empty. King had a well-appointed house in , ; but it was here that his hospitalities were most lavishly and luxuriously exercised. Here it was that Sheridan told his host that he liked his dinner-table better than his multiplication table; to which his host, who was not only witty, but often the cause of wit in others, replied,
alluding to the admirable performance of the actor, King, in Sheridan's
Craven Cottage, as left by Walsh Porter in , was considered the prettiest specimen of cottage architecture then existing. The principal reception-rooms are described as having been equally remarkable for their structure as well as their furniture.
Croker tells us in his
Along the Thames side of the house a raised terrace was constructed, and the grounds were laid out with great taste.
Continuing our course westward a short distance farther, we come to a house known as the
which has long been familiar to all Thames oarsmen, amateurs and professionals alike. The crab is the indigenous apple-tree of this country, and its abundance in this neighbourhood formerly gave its name to the adjoining part of the parish. Faulkner, in his
Early in the present century a villa was built on the banks of the Thames, near the
for the Earl of Cholmondeley. The design for the edifice was taken from a villa in Switzerland, which his lordship had seen on his travels. The house was built chiefly of wood, of the earl's own growing, and the interior was principally fitted up with cedar of the largest growth ever produced in this country. The exterior was covered with coloured slates, having nearly the same appearance and solidity as stone. The front next the river was ornamented with a colonnade, extending the whole length of the building, and thatched with reeds, to correspond with the roof. The house, however, has long since been pulled down.
Passing up Crab Tree Lane, and returning to the village by the Hammersmith and , we pass on our left the cemetery for the parish of Fulham, which was opened in . It is laid out in Fulham Fields, and covers several acres of land which had previously served to rear fruit and vegetables. The land all around for a considerable distance, stretching away towards Hammersmith and North End, is still covered with market-gardens, excepting here and there where a few modern buildings have been erected. Among these is the St. James's Home and Penitentiary, which was originally established at Whetstone.
Continuing our course eastward, we reach the , which extends from the London-or rather Fulham--Road to . This thoroughfare appears at time to have been called , and in the more ancient parishbooks it is denominated Fulham Street.
in this street, which was pulled down only a few years ago to make room for a new public-house bearing the same sign, is closely connected by tradition with the annals of the palace. The old house, which dated back to the reign of Henry VII., is said to have been the residence of Bishop Bonner, and when converted into an inn, to have been frequented by Shakespeare, Fletcher, and other literary celebrities. Bishop Bonner, according to account, died at Fulham in his arm-chair, smoking tobacco; and the late Mr. Crofton Croker, in a paper read by him before the British Archaeological Association at Warwick, tried to show that an ancient tobacco-pipe, of Elizabethan pattern, found, , in the course of some alterations made in , was the veritable pipe of that right reverend prelate! Strange stories are told of a subterranean passage which existed, it is said, between this house and the palace. On the pulling down of the old
the panelling was purchased by the Lord Ellenborough, for the fitting up of his residence, Southam House, near Cheltenham.
The Workhouse formerly stood on the east side of the . It was built in , but had been in a dilapidated condition for many years, and was pulled down about ; a large building to be used as the Union for the joint parishes of Fulham and Hammersmith having been erected in Fulham Fields. Cipriani, the distinguished Florentine painter, lived for some time in a house adjoining the old workhouse; he died in London in .
In order to gain some idea of what the external appearance of Fulham was at the commencement of the last century, we have only to suppose ourselves carried back to that date, and to be walking through the village with old Master Bowack, the author of a
published about that time. We shall observe, as he tells us,
Judging from the above description, a visitor to Fulham now would find that the locality has undergone (in external appearance, at least) marvellously little alteration during the time that has elapsed since it was written.
writes Mr. Blomfield, in his work above quoted,
continues Mr. Blomfield,
If this were so, the state of the road will almost seem to justify the derivation of the name of the village as the ham.
Seeing the as it is now, swarming with omnibuses and butchers' carts, carriages, and coal-wagons, it is very difficult to imagine its condition a century and a half ago, with perhaps
But bad as the was in the olden time, the inconvenience of having to travel over it was, to Bishop Laud, at least, an advantage; for, as we have already had occasion to mention in our account of , in of his letters to Lord Strafford, alluding to his health as not being so good as it was formerly, he expresses a regret that in consequence of his elevation to the see of Canterbury he has now simply to glide across the river in his barge, when on his way either to the Court or the Star-Chamber; whereas, when Bishop of London, there were miles of rough road between Fulham Palace and , the jolting over which in his coach he describes as having been very beneficial to his health.
Holcrofts, which stands on the left side of the , as we pass from the top of the , dates from the early part of the last century, when it was built oy Robert Limpany, a wealthy merchant of London, whose estate in this parish was so considerable that, as Bowack tells us,
The house, which formerly had a long avenue of trees in front of it, was sold to Sir William Withers, in , and became afterwards successively the residence of Sir Martin Wright, of the Justices of the King's Bench, and of the Earl of Ross. The building was subsequently known as Holcrofts Hall, and was for some time occupied by Sir John Burgoyne, who here gave some clever dramatic performances. Here it was that the celebrated Madame Vestris lived, after her marriage with Charles Mathews, the well-known actor, and here she died in , at which time the house was called Gore Lodge.
Holcrofts Priory, on the opposite side of the road, was built about the year , on the site of an old Elizabethan mansion called Claybrooke House, from a wealthy family of that name who owned the property in the century. of the family was buried in Fulham Church in
|. Claybrooke House was in the occupation of the Frewens at the commencement of the last century, and afterwards became the property of the above-mentioned Robert Limpany. For many years prior to its demolition it was used as a seminary for young ladies.|
In Elysium Road, near the , is a large and handsome ecclesiastical-looking edifice, in the Gothic style. This is an Orphanage Home, under the patronage of the Bishop of London, founded a few years ago by Mrs. Tait, the wife of Bishop (since Archbishop) Tait.
In , formerly known as , the thoroughfare running parallel with the on its eastern side, and extending from the corner of to , Fulham Almshouses originally stood; they were founded, as already stated, by Sir William Powell, in , but rebuilt near the parish church in . , whence the road derives its name, was for upwards of a century a well-known academy kept at time by a Mr. Roy. On the grounds attached to the house is now a Reformatory School for Females; it was built about .
Farther along the , on the north
side, stands Munster House, which is supposed to owe its name to Melesina Schulenberg, who was created by George I., in , Duchess of Munster. According to Faulkner, it was at time called
House; but as Mr. Croker suggests, in his |
Faulkner adds that tradition makes this house a hunting-seat of Charles II., and asserts that an extensive park was attached to it; but there seems to be no foundation for the statement. In the century the property seems to have belonged to the Powells, from whom it passed into the possession of Sir John Williams, Bart., of Pengethly, Monmouthshire. In , Lysons tells us, the house was occupied as a school; and in Faulkner informs us that it was the residence of M. Sampayo, a Portuguese merchant. It was afterwards for many years tenanted by [extra_illustrations.6.517.1] , Secretary of the Admiralty, and whose name is well known as the editor of
About Mr. Croker resigned Munster House as a residence,
On the gate-piers were formerly grotesque-looking composition lions, which had the popular effect, for some time, of changing the name to House.
On the opposite side of the road is an extensive garden for the supply of the London market, by the side of which runs , whence a turning about half-way down leads on to Parson's Green. Fulham Lodge, which stood on the south side of the main road, close by Munster Terrace, was a favourite retreat of the Duke of York, and for some time the home of George Colman the Younger. covers the spot whereon the lodge stood.
Continuing along the about a quarter of a mile, we reach Percy Cross, or rather, as it was formerly called, Purser's Cross. Here Lord Ravensworth has a suburban residence, in the garden of which is a fine specimen of an old
reminding us of Virgil's line-
The mansion is concealed from the road by a high brick wall, and although to outward appearance it
|is small and unostentatious, yet. in reality, it is more capacious and attractive than it looks. The Queen and Prince Albert honoured the late Lord Ravensworth with a visit here in . The grounds at the back ot the house owe their charm to a former occupier, Mr. John Ord, a Master in Chancery, who about the middle of the last century planted them with such skill and taste that, though not extensive, they held a foremost rank among the private gardens in the neighbourhood of London.|
is mentioned as a point
so far back as ; and the place has never been in any way connected with the
Purser's Cross is said to be a corruption of Parson's Cross, and the vicinity of Parson's Green is mentioned in support of this conjecture. However, that
Cross, has been for many years the usual mode of writing the name of this locality, is established by an entry in the
in . At Percy Cross was at time the residence of Signor Mario and Madame Grisi.
On the opposite side of the road to Lord Ravensworth's house is Walham Lodge, formerly called Park Cottage, a modern, well-built house, standing within extensive grounds, surrounded by a brick wall. Here for some years lived Mr. Brande, the eminent chemist, whose lectures on geology, delivered at the Royal Institution in , acquired great popularity.
A house, now divided into , and called Dungannon House and Lodge, abuts upon the western boundary of Walham Lodge. Tradition asserts that this united cottage and villa were, previous to their separation, known by the name of Bolingbroke Lodge, and as such became the frequent resort of Pope, Gay, Swift, and others of that fraternity; but it would seem as if tradition had mixed up this house with Bolingbroke House, Battersea, which we have lately described.
A few yards from Dungannon House, on the same side of the road, opposite to Parson's , stands Arundel House, an old mansion, supposed to date from the Tudor period. It appears to have been newly fronted towards the close of the last century; and in the house was in the occupation of the late Mr. Hallam, the historian of the Middle Ages
On the opposite side of the road is the carriage entrance to Park House, which stands in Parson's . A stone tablet let into of the piers of the gateway is inscribed,
This date has reference to the death of a highwayman which occurred here, and of which the gives the following particulars :--
Park House, in Parson's , is said to be a fac-simile of an older mansion, called Quibus Hall, which occupied the same site. The old hall at time belonged to the Whartons. Lysons, on the authority of the parish books, states that a Sir Michael Wharton was living here in . When the house was rebuilt, it was for a time called High Elms House. A small house opposite, Audley Cottage, was for many years the residence of the late Mr. Thomas Crofton Croker, F.S.A., who wrote a minute description of the place, which is reprinted in the
to which we are indebted for some of the particulars here given. The name of the place, which was at time Brunswick Cottage, was altered by Mr. Croker to Rosamond's Bower, the property hereabouts having at some distant date formed part of a manorial estate called Rosamonds, which in the century belonged to Sir Henry Wharton. Lysons, in his
This house was taken down about the year , and the stables of Park House built on the site. With reference to the present building, an ordinary -storeyed dwelling-house, Mr. Croker wrote :
Parson's Green is a triangular plot of ground at the southern end of the lane, at its junction with ; and it was so called from the parsonage-house of the parish of Fulham, which stood on its west side, but was pulled down about the year . , on which successive rectors and their families disported themselves, is for the most part surrounded by small cottages. There used to be held on annually on the , a fair, which had, as Faulkner tells us,
writes Lambert, in his
We have already spoken of Richardson in our accounts of and of Hampstead, and we shall have still more to say about him when we reach North End, on our way to Hammersmith.
are the following verses on an alcove at Parson's Green, by Mrs. Bennet, sister of Mr. Edward Bridges, who married Richardson's sister :
Seeing, however, that
were both written between and , and that Richardson did not take up his abode here till , it is North End, and not Parson's Green, that may lay claim to being the seat of their production. Edwards, the author of
died at Parson's Green in , whilst on a visit to Richardson.
A century or ago Parson's Green was noted for its aristocratic residents. East End House, on the east side, was built at the end of the century for Sir Francis Child, who was Lord Mayor of London in . The house was inhabited by Admiral Sir Charles Wager; and by Dr. Ekins, Dean of Carlisle, who died there in . Mrs. Fitzherbert was at time a resident here; and, according to Mr. Croker, she erected the porch in front of the house as a shelter for carriages. Here, naturally enough, the Prince of Wales (afterwards George IV.) was a frequent visitor. Madame Piccolomini, too, lived for some time on the east side of .
Another distinguished resident at Parson's Green in former times was Sir Thomas Bodley, the founder of the Bodleian Library at Oxford. Rowland White, Lord Strafford's entertaining and communicative correspondent, was his contemporary there.
So wrote Lysons in ; but Faulkner says,
Close by Parson's Green is another open space, called Eelbrook Common, which
has been used as a place of recreation for the dwellers in the neighbourhood. This plot of ground recently became the subject of a question in the , in consequence of encroachments made upon it, the Ecclesiastical Commissioners, as lords of the manor, having disposed of some portion of it for building purposes, thus encroaching on the rights of the public.
On the south-west side of , near Eelbrook Common, is Peterborough House, formerly the residence of the Mordaunts, Earls of Peterborough, whom we have already mentioned in our account of Fulham Church.
The present building, a modern structure, dating from the end of the last century, has replaced an older mansion, which is described by Bowack as
and grounds covered about acres, and were beautifully laid out, after the fashion of the period. Swift, in of his letters, speaks of Lord Peterborough's gardens as being the finest he had ever seen about London. The ancient building was known as Brightwells, or Rightwells, and was the residence of John Tarnworth, of Queen Elizabeth's Privy Councillors, who died here in . The place afterwards belonged to Sir Thomas Knolles, who sold it to Sir Thomas Smith, Master of the Court of Requests. He died here in ,
| and his widow soon afterwards married the Earl of Exeter, whilst Sir Thomas's only daughter married the Honourable Thomas Carey, the Earl of Monmouth's son, who, in right of his wife, became possessor of the estate. After him, the place was named Villa Carey. In , Villa Carey was occupied by Lord Mordaunt, who had married the daughter and heiress of Mr. Carey. This Lord Mordaunt took a prominent part in bringing about the restoration of Charles II., after which event he seems to have quietly settled down on his estate at Parson's Green, where he died in . John Evelyn, in his |
under date of , thus makes mention of a visit to Lord Mordaunt:--
Evelyn no doubt meant Parson's Green House. Later on, , Evelyn makes the following (more correct) entry in his
Lord Mordaunt's son, Charles, subsequently known as Earl of Monmouth, distinguished himself
as a military character prior to the Revolution, and also in the reigns of William and Mary and Queen Anne. He succeeded to the earldom of Peterborough on the death of his uncle in . He was twice married: his wife was the accomplished singer, Anastasia Robinson, who survived him. The earl was visited at Peterborough House by all the wits and of his time, including Pope, Swift, Locke, and many others. Faulkner, in his |
says that Miss Robinson
Sir John Hawkins, in his
says she resided at Peterborough House, and presided at the earl's table, but she never lived under the same roof with him till she was prevailed on to attend him in a journey, which he took a few years before his death, on account of his declining health. During her residence at Fulham she was visited by persons of the highest rank, under a full persuasion, founded on the general tenor of his life and conduct, that
| she had a legal right to a rank which, for prudential reasons, she was content to decline. She held frequent musical parties, at which Bononcini, Martini, Tosi, Greene, and the most eminent musicians of that time assisted; and they were attended by all the fashionable world. It was some years before the earl could prevail upon himself to acknowledge her as his countess; nor did he, till , publicly own what most people knew before; he then proclaimed his marriage like no other husband. He went evening to the rooms at Bath, where a servant was ordered distinctly and audibly to announce |
Every lady of rank immediately rose and congratulated the declared countess.
After Lord Peterborough's death, the house was sold to a Mr. Heaviside, from whom it was subsequently purchased by Mr. John Meyrick, father of Sir Samuel Meyrick, the well-known antiquary and writer on armour. He pulled the old mansion down, and built the present house on the site.
It is recorded in Faulkner's
that in a vineyard at Parson's Green some Burgundy grapes were ripe in , and that the owner of the vineyard was about to make wine from them, as he did yearly.
, which skirts the southern side of , leads direct eastward on to , and passing westward unites with , at the end of . At a short distance from , in the , stands Ivy Cottage, which was built at the end of the last century by Walsh Porter, and is in a debased Gothic style of architecture. Faulkner states that
The house was for some time the residence of the late Mr. E. T. Smith, the well-known theatrical manager, who gave it the name of Drury Lodge, after the theatre of which he was then the lessee. The house, several years ago, resumed its old name of Ivy Cottage. Here, in , died the Rev. R. G. Baker, who was many years Vicar of Fulham, and well known as an antiquary.
In (formerly , according to Faulkner) stand the Fulham Charity Schools, which were erected in . Close by is a pottery, which has existed here for upwards of centuries. It was established by John Dwight, who, after numerous experiments, took out a patent, dated , which was renewed in , for the making of
Another branch of industry at time carried on at Fulham was the manufacture of Gobelin tapestry; but the articles produced were too costly to command a large sale. Mr. Smiles, in his
Before leaving the village of Fulham, and making our way to Walham Green and North End, we may remark that this neighbourhood--if it has not always been remarkable for the healthiness or longevity of its inhabitants-can boast of having produced at least centenarian. In the for , we find this record:
[extra_illustrations.6.504.1] The Fulham Shore
[extra_illustrations.6.504.2] Fulham and Putney
 See Vol. IV., p. 464; and ante, p. 306.
[extra_illustrations.6.506.1] The parish church, dedicated to All Saints
[extra_illustrations.6.508.1] Bishop's Farm
[extra_illustrations.6.508.2] Fulham Palace
[extra_illustrations.6.508.3] The hall
[extra_illustrations.6.508.4] The new chapel
[extra_illustrations.6.508.5] Porteus library
 See ante, p. 152.
 See p. 505.
 See Vol. III., p. 353.
[extra_illustrations.6.517.1] Mr. John Wilson Croker, M.P.
 See ante, p. 470.
 See Vol. I., p. 146; and Vol. V., p. 461.