Old and New London, A Narrative of its History, its People and its Places. Illustrated with Numerous Engravings from the Most Authentic Sources. vol I

Thornbury, Walter

1872-78

Fleet Street (Northern Tributaries--Shire Lane and Bell Yard).

Fleet Street (Northern Tributaries--Shire Lane and Bell Yard).

 

Opposite Child's Bank, and almost within sound of the jingle of its gold, once stood , afterwards known as Lower Serle's Place. It latterly became a dingy, disreputable defile, where lawyers' clerks and the hangers--on of the law-courts were often allured and sometimes robbed; yet it had been in its day a place of great repute. In this lane the Kit-Kat, the great club of Queen Anne's reign, held its sittings, at the

Cat and Fiddle,

the shop of a pastrycook named Christopher Kat. The house, according to local antiquaries, afterwards became the

Trumpet,

a tavern mentioned by Steele in the , and latterly known as the

Duke of York.

The Kit-Kats were originally Whig patriots, who, at the end of King William's reign, met in this outof- the-way place to devise measures to secure the Protestant succession and keep out the pestilent Stuarts. Latterly they assembled for simple enjoyment; and there have been grave disputes as to whether the club took its name from the punning sign, the

Cat and Kit,

or from the favourite pies which Christopher Kat had christened; and as this question will probably last the antiquaries another centuries, we leave it alone. According to some verses by Arbuthnot, the chosen friend of Pope and Swift, the question was mooted even in his time, as if the very founders of the club had forgotten. Some think that the club really began with a weekly dinner given by Jacob Tonson, the great bookseller of , to his chief authors and patrons. This Tonson, of the patriarchs of English booksellers, who published Dryden's purchased a share of Milton's works, and made Shakespeare's works cheap enough to be accessible to the many, was secretary to the club from the commencement. An average of thirtynine poets, wits, noblemen, and gentlemen formed the staple of the association. The noblemen were perhaps rather too numerous for that republican equality which often prevails in the best intellectual society; yet above all the dukes shine out Steele and Addison, the great luminaries of the club. Among the Kit-Kat dukes was the great Marlborough; among the earls the poetic Dorset, the patron of Dryden and Prior; among the lords the wise Halifax; among the baronets bluff Sir Robert Walpole. Among the poets and wits there were Congreve, the most courtly of dramatists; Garth, the poetical physician--

well-natured Garth,

as Pope somewhat awkwardly calls him; and Vanbrugh, the writer of admirable comedies. Dryden could hardly have seriously belonged to a Whig club; Pope was inadmissible as a Catholic, and Prior as a renegade. Latterly objectionable men pushed in, worst of all, Lord Mohun, a disreputable debauchee and duellist, afterwards run through by the Duke of Hamilton in , the duke himself perishing in the encounter. When Mohun, in a drunken pet, broke a gilded emblem off a club chair, respectable old Tonson predicted the downfall of the society, and said with a sigh,

The man who would do that would cut a man's throat.

Sir Godfrey Kneller, the great Court painter of the reigns of William and Anne, was a member; and he painted for his friend Tonson the portraits of gentlemen of the Kit-Kat, including Dryden, who died a year after it was started. The portraits, painted -quarter size (hence called Kit-Kat), to suit the walls of Tonson's villa at Barn Elms, still exist, and are treasured by Mr. W. R. Baker, a connection of the Tonson family, at Hertingfordbury, in Hertfordshire. Among the lesser men of this distinguished club we must include Pope's friends, the

knowing Walsh

and

Granville the polite.

As at the

Devil,

the tribe of Ben

must have often discussed the downfall of Lord Bacon, the poisoning of Overbury, the war in the Palatinate, and the murder of Buckingham; so in , opposite, the talk must have run on Marlborough's victories, Jacobite plots, and the South-Sea Bubble; Addison must have discussed Swift, and Steele condemned the littleness of Pope. It was the custom of this aristocratic club every year to elect some reigning beauty as a toast. To the queen of the year the gallant members wrote epigrammatic verses, which were etched with a diamond on the club glasses. The most celebrated of these toasts were the daughters of the Duke of Mailborough-Lady Godolphin, Lady Sunderland (generally known as

the Little Whig

), Lady Bridgewater, and Lady Monthermer. Swift's friend, Mrs. Long, was another; and so was a niece of Sir Isaac Newton. The verses

71

seem flat and dead now, like flowers found between the leaves of an old book; but in their time no doubt they had their special bloom and fragrance. The most tolerable are those written by Lord Halifax on

the Little Whig

:--

All nature's charms in Sunderland appear, Bright as her eyes and as her reason clear; Yet still their force, to man not safely known, Seems undiscovered to herself alone.

Yet how poor after all is this laboured compliment in comparison to a sentence of Steele's on some lady of rank whose virtues he honoured,--

that even to have known hers was in itself a liberal education.

But few stories connected with the Kit-Kat meetings are to be dug out of books, though no doubt many snatches of the best conversation are embalmed in the and the Yet Lady Mary Wortley Montagu, whom Pope admired and then reviled, tells pleasant incident of her childhood that connects her with the great club.

evening when toasts were being chosen, her father, Evelyn Pierpoint, Duke of Kingston, took it into his head to nominate Lady Mary, then a child only years of age. She was prettier, he vowed, than any beauty on the list.

You shall see her,

cried the duke, and instantly sent a chaise for her. Presently she came ushered in, dressed in her best, and was elected by acclamation. [extra_illustrations.1.71.1] , and, feasting her with sweetmeats and passing her round with kisses, at once inscribed her name with a diamond on a drinkingglass.

Pleasure,

she says,

was too poor a word to express my sensations. They amounted to ecstasy. Never again throughout my whole life did I pass so happy an evening.

It used to be said that it took so much wine to raise Addison to his best mood, that [extra_illustrations.1.71.2]  generally got drunk before that golden hour arrived. Steele, that warm-hearted careless fellow in whom Thackeray so delighted, certainly shone at the Kit- Kat; and an anecdote still extant shows him to us with all his amiable weaknesses. On the night of that great Whig festival--the celebration--of King William's anniversary-Steele and Addison brought with them Dr. Hoadley, the Bishop of Bangor, and solemnly drank

the immortal memory.

Presently John Sly, an eccentric hatter and enthusiastic politician, crawled into the room on his knees, in the old Cavalier fashion, and drank the Orange toast in a tankard of foaming October.-No laughed at the tipsy hatter; but Steele, kindly even when in liquor, kept whispering to the rather shocked prelate,

Do laugh; it is humanity to laugh.

The bishop soon put on his hat and withdrew, and Steele by and by subsided under the table. Picked up and crammed into a sedan-chair, he insisted, late as it was, in going to the Bishop of Bangor's to apologise. Eventually he was coaxed home and went up-stairs, but then, in a gush of politeness, he insisted on seeing the chairmen out; after which he retired with self-complacency to bed. The next morning, in spite of headache the most racking, Steele sent the tolerant bishop the following exquisite couplet, which covered a multitude of such sins:--

Virtue with so much ease on Bangor sits, All faults he pardons, though he none commits.

night when amiable Garth lingered over the Kit-Kat wine, though patients were pining for him, Steele reproved the epicurean doctor:

Nay, nay, Dick,

said Garth, pulling out a list of ,

it's no great matter after all, for

nine

of them have such bad constitutions that not all the physicians in the world could save them; and the other

six

have such good constitutions that all the physicians in the world could not kill them.

o'clock in the morning seems to have been no uncommon hour for the Kit-Kat to break up, and a Tory lampooner says that at this club the youth of Anne's reign learned

To sleep away the days and drink away the nights.

The club latterly held its meetings at Tonson's villa at Barn Elms, previously the residence of Cowley, or at the

Upper Flask

tavern, on Hampstead Heath. The club died out before the year ; for Sir J. Vanbrugh, writing to Tonson, says,--

Both Lord Carlisle and Cobham expressed a great desire of having

one

meeting next winter, not as a club, but as old friends that have been of a club--and the best club that ever met.

In we find the Kit-Kat subscribing guineas for the encouragement of good comedies. Altogether such a body of men must have had great influence on the literature of the age, for, in spite of the bitterness of party, there was some generous then, and the Whig wits and poets were a power, and were backed by rank and wealth.

Whether the [extra_illustrations.1.71.3]  (formerly half-way up on the left-hand side ascending from ) was the citadel of the Kit-Kats or not, Steele introduces it as the scene of of the best of his papers. It was there, in , that he received his deputation of Staffordshire county

72

73

gentlemen, delightful old fogies, standing much on form and precedence. There he prepares tea for Sir Harry Quickset, Bart.; Sir Giles Wheelbarrow; Thomas Rentfree, Esq., J.P.; Andrew Windmill, Esq., the steward, with boots and whip; and Mr. Nicholas Doubt, of the Inner Temple, Sir Harry's mischievous young nephew. After much dispute about precedence, the sturdy old fellows are taken by Steele to

Dick's

Coffee-house for a morning draught; and safely, after some danger, effect the passage of , Steele rallying them at the Temple Gate. In Sir Harry we fancy we see a faint sketch of the more dignified Sir Roger de Coverley, whom Addison afterwards so exquisitely elaborated.

At the

Trumpet

Steele also introduces us to a delightful club of old citizens that met every evening precisely at . The humours of the

Trumpeters

are painted with the breadth and vigour of Hogarth's best manner. With a delightful
humour Steele sketches Sir Geoffrey Notch, the president, who had spent all his money on horses, dogs, and gamecocks, and who looked on all thriving persons as pitiful upstarts. Then comes Major Matchlock, who thought nothing of any battle since Marston Moor, and who usually began his story of Naseby at -quarters past . Dick Reptile was a silent man, with a nephew whom he often reproved. The wit of the club, an old Temple bencher, never left the room till he had quoted distiches from and told long stories of a certain extinct man about town named Jack Ogle. Old Reptile was extremely attentive to all that was said, though he had heard the same stories every night for years, and upon all occasions winked oracularly to his nephew particularly to mind what passed. About the innocent twaddle closed by a man coming in with a lantern to light home old Bickerstaff. They were simple and happy times that Steele

74

describes with such kindly humour; and the London of his days must have been full of such quiet, homely haunts.

Mr. R. Hills, of Colne Park, Essex, kindly in forms us that as late as the year there was a club that still kept up the name of Kit-Kat. The members in included, among others, Lord Sandwich (Jemmy Twitcher, as he was generally called), Mr. Beard, Lord Weymouth, Lord Bolingbroke, the Duke of Queensberry, Lord Carysfort, Mr. Cadogan, the Marquis of Caracciollo, Mr. Seymour, and Sir George Armytage. of the most active managers of the club was Richard Phelps (who, we believe, afterwards was secretary to Pitt). Among the letters and receipts preserved by Mr. Hills is from Thomas Pingo, jeweller, of the

Golden Head,

on the

Paved stones,

, for gold medals, probably to be worn by the members.

Even in the reign of James I. was christened Rogues' Lane, and, in spite of all the dukes and lords of the Kit-Kat, it never grew very respectable. In that incomparable young rascal, Jack Sheppard, used to frequent the

Bible

public-house--a printers' house of call-at No. . n of the rooms there was a trap by which Jack could drop into a subterraneous passage leading to . The Tyburn gibbet cured Jack of this trick. In the lane went from bad to worse, for there Thomas Carr (a low attorney, of ) and Elizabeth Adams robbed and murdered a gentleman named Quarrington at the

Angel and Crown

Tavern, and the miscreants were hung at Tyburn. Hogarth painted a portrait of the woman. night, many years ago, a man was robbed, thrown downstairs, and killed, in of the dens in . There was snow on the ground, and about o'clock, when the watchmen grew drowsy and were a long while between their rounds, the frightened murderers carried the stiffened body up the lane and placed it bolt upright, near a dim oil lamp, at a neighbour's door. There the watchmen found it; but there was no clue to guide them, for nearly every house in the lane was infamous. Years after, ruffianly fellows who were confined in the King's Bench were heard accusing each other of the murder in , and justice pounced upon her prey.

thieves' house, the

Retreat,

says Mr. Diprose, in his led by a back way into Crown Court; other dens had a passage into . Nos. , , and were known as Cadgers' Hall, and were much frequented by beggars; and bushels of bread, thrown aside by the professional mendicants, were found there by the police.

The

Sun

Tavern, afterwards the

Temple Bar

Stores,

had been a great resort for the Tom and Jerry frolics of the Regency; and the

AntiGalli- can

Tavern was a haunt of low sporting men, being kept by Harry Lee, father of the and original

tiger,

invented and made fashionable by the notorious Lord Barrymore. During the Chartist times violent meetings were held at a club in hire Lane. A good story is told of of these. detective in disguise attended an illegal meeting, leaving his comrades ready below. All at once a frantic hatter rose, denounced the detective as a spy, and proposed off-hand to pitch him out of window. Permitted by the more peaceable to depart, the policeman scuttled downstairs as fast as he could, and, not being recognised in his disguise, was instantly knocked down by his friends' prompt truncheons.

In , close to , once stood a block of disreputable, tumble-down houses, used by coiners, and known as the

Smashing Lumber.

very room had a secret trap, and from the workshop above a shaft reached the cellars to hurry away by means of a basket and pulley all the apparatus at the alarm. The man made his fortune, but the new police soon ransacked the den and broke up the business.

In , Theodore Hook, the witty and the heartless, was brought to a sponging-house kept by a sheriff's officer named Hemp, at the upper end of , being under arrest for a Crown debt of due to the Crown for defalcations during his careless treasurership at the Mauritius. He was editor of at the time, and continued while in this horrid den to write his and to pour forth for royal pay his usual scurrilous lampoons at all who supported poor, persecuted Queen Caroline. Mr. Maginn, who had just come over from Cork to practise Toryism, was his constant visitor, and Hemp's barred door no doubt often shook at their reckless laughter. Hook at length left for the Rules of the Bench, , in . Previously to his arrest he had been living in retirement at lodgings in Somers' Town, with a poor girl whom he had led astray. Here he renewed the mad scenes of his thoughtless youth with Terry, Matthews, and wonderful old Tom Hill; and, here he resumed (but not at these revels) his former acquaintanceship with that mischievous obstructive, Wilson Croker. After he left and the Rules of the Bench he went to Putney.

75

 

In spite of all bad proclivities, had its fits of respectability. In there was living there Sir Arthur Atie, Knt., in early life secretary to the great Earl of Leicester, and afterwards attendant on his step-son, the luckless Earl of Essex. Elias Ashmole, the great antiquary and student in alchemy and astrology, also honoured this lane, but he gathered in the Temple those great collections of books and coins, some of which perished by fire, and some of which he afterwards gave to the University of Oxford, where they were placed in a building called, in memory of the illustrious collector, the Ashmolean Museum.

To Mr. Noble's research we are indebted for the knowledge that in Mr. Hoole, the translator of Tasso, was living in , and from thence wrote to Dr. Percy, who was collecting his to ask, him Dr. Wharton's address. Hoole was at that time writing a dramatic piece called , for . He seems to have been an amiable man but a feeble poet, was an esteemed friend of Dr. Johnson, and had a situation in the .

Another illustrious tenant of was [extra_illustrations.1.75.1] , the proprietor of the , who died, as it was reported, worth . That lively memoir-writer, Taylor, of the , who wrote

Monsieur Tonson,

describes Perry as living in the narrow part of , opposite a passage which led to the stairs from . He lodged with Mr. Lunan, a bookbinder, who had married his sister, who subsequently became the wife of that great Greek scholar, thirsty Dr. Porson. Perry had begun life as the editor of the , but being dismissed by a Tory proprietor, and on the being abandoned by Woodfall, some of Perry's friends bought the derelict for , and he and Gray, a friend of Barett, became the joint proprietors of the concern. Their printer, Mr. Lambert, lived in ; and here the partners, too, lived for or years, when they removed to the corner-house of , Strand.

can boast of but few associations; yet Pope often visited the dingy passage, because there for some years resided his old friend Fortescue, then a barrister, but afterwards a judge and Master of the Rolls. To Fortescue Pope dedicated his Imitation of the published in . It contains what the late Mr. Rogers, the banker and poet, used to consider the best line Pope ever wrote, and it is certainly almost perfect,--

Bare the mean heart that lurks behind a star.

In that delightful collection of Pope's called we find that a chance remark of Lord Bolingbroke, on taking up a in Pope's sick-room, led to those fine which we now possess. The consists of an imaginary conversation between Pope and Fortescue, who advises him to write no more dangerous invectives against vice or folly. It was Fortescue who assisted Pope in writing the humorous law-report of in The intricate case is this, and is worthy of Anstey himself: Sir John Swale, of Swale's Hall, in Swale Dale, by the river Swale, knight, made his last will and testament, in which, among other bequests, was this:

Out of the kind love and respect that I bear my muchhonoured and good friend, Mr. Matthew Stradling, gent., I do bequeath unto the said Matthew Stradling, gent., all my black and white horses.

Now the testator had black horses, white, and pied horses. The debate, therefore, was whether the said Matthew Stradling should have the said pied horses, by virtue of the said bequest. The case, after much debate, is suddenly terminated by a motion in arrest of judgment that the pied horses were mares, and thereupon an inspection was prayed. This, it must be confessed, is admirable fooling. If the Scriblerus Club had carried out their plan of bantering the follies of the followers of every branch of knowledge, Fortescue would no doubt have selected the law as his special butt.

This friend of Pope,

says Mr. Carruthers,

was consulted by the poet about all his affairs, as well as those of Martha Blount, and, as may be gathered, he gave him advice without a fee. The intercourse between the poet and his learned counsel was cordial and sincere; and of the letters that passed between them

sixty-eight

have been published, ranging from

1714

to the last year of Pope's life. They are short, unaffected lettersmore truly

betters

than any others in the series.

Fortescue was promoted to the bench of the Exchequer in , from thence to the Common Pleas in , and in was made Master of the Rolls. Pope's letters are often addressed to

his counsel learned in the law, at his house at the upper end of

Bell Yard

, near unto

Lincoln's Inn

.

In , he writes of

that filthy old place,

Bell Yard

, which I want them and you to quit.

Apollo Court, next , has little about it worthy of notice beyond the fact that it derived its name from the great club-room at the

Devil

Tavern, that once stood on the opposite side of , and the jovialities of which we have already chronicled.

76

[extra_illustrations.1.76.2] [extra_illustrations.1.76.3] [extra_illustrations.1.76.4] [extra_illustrations.1.76.1] 

 
 
 
Footnotes:

[extra_illustrations.1.71.1] The Whig gentlemen drank the little lady's health up-standing

[extra_illustrations.1.71.2] Steele

[extra_illustrations.1.71.3] Trumpet

[extra_illustrations.1.75.1] James Perry

[extra_illustrations.1.76.2] New Premises (1879) Chancery Lane

[extra_illustrations.1.76.3] Union Bank of London

[extra_illustrations.1.76.4] Chancery Lane Safe Deposit Co.

[extra_illustrations.1.76.1] Pawlet-printer, Chancery Lane, title pages

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 Title Page
 Frontispiece
 Introduction
 Chapter I: Roman London
 Chapter II:Temple Bar
 Chapter III: Fleet Street
 Chapter IV: Fleet Street
 Chapter V: Fleet Street
 Chapter VI: Fleet Street, Northern Tributaries
 Chapter VII: Fleet Street, Northern Tributaries, Chancery Lane
 Chapter VIII: Fleet Street, Northern Tributaries, continued
 Chapter IX: Fleet Street, Tributaries, Crane Street
 Chapter X: Fleet Street, Tributaries
 Chapter XI: Fleet Street Tributaries Shoe lane.
 Chapter XII: Fleet Street, Tributaries South.
 Chapter XIII: The Temple, General Introduction
 Chapter XIV: The Temple Church and Precinct.
 Chapter XV: The Temple continued.
 Chapter XVI: The Temple continued.
 Chapter XVII: Whitefriars
 Chapter XVIII: Blackfriars
 Chapter XIX: Ludgate Hill
 Chapter XX: St. Paul's
 Chapter XXI: St. Paul's, continued
 Chapter XXII: St. Paul's Churchyard
 Chapter XXIII: Paternoster Row
 Chapter XXIV: Doctors' Commons
 Chapter XXV: Heralds' College.
 Chapter XXVI: Cheapside, Introductory And Historical.
 Chapter XXVII: Cheapside Shows and Pageants.
 Chapter XXVIII: Cheapside Central.
 Chapter XXIX: Cheapside Tributaries South
 Chapter XXX: Cheapside Tributaries, North.
 Chapter XXXI: Cheapside tributaries, North
 XXXII: Cheapside Tributaries, North.
 XXXIII: Guildhall.
 Chapter XXXIV: David Salomons, Lord Mayor.
 Chapter XXXV: The Lord Mayors of London.
 Chapter XXXVI: The Poultry
 Chapter XXXVII: Old Jewery
 Chapter XXXVIII: Mansion House.
 Chapter XXXIX: Map of Saxon London.
 Chapter XL: Bank of England.
 Chapter XLI: The Stock Exchange.
 Chapter XLII: The Royal Exchange.
 Chapter XLIII: The Royal Enchange, continued.
 Chapter XLIV: Lothbury.
 Chapter XLV: Throngmorton Street, the Drapers Company.
 Chapter XLVI: Bartholomew Lane and Lombard Street.
 Chapter XLVII: Threadneedle Street.
 Chapter XLVIII: Cannon Street.
 Chapter XLIX: Cannon Street Tributaries and Eastcheap.
 Chapter L: The Monument And Its Neighbourhood, Wren's plan for rebuilding London.
 Chapter LI: Chaucer's London.