THE 'commode' must have been so named on the same

give us his definition of a Belle, or 'Modish Lady,' as he prefers to call her, who was-

At Hackney, Stepney, or at Chealsea Bred, In Dancing perfect and in Plays well Read. Impatient of Extreams, with Pride half Craz'd, Then must her Head, a Story higher be rais'd. In her next Gaudy Gown, her Sweeping Train Is order'd to be made as long again; All things must vary from the common Rode, And reach a Size beyond the Decent Mode: Thus Monstrously Adorn'd, to make a show, She walks in State, and Courtsies very low, And is a proper Mistress for the Fool, a Beau.

We get a very good, and at the same time humorous, description of female dress in out of 's play of 'The Platonick Lady,' wherein one of the characters is Mrs. Dowdy, 'a Somersetshire Widow, come to Town to learn Breeding.'

Act. 3. Enter Mrs. Dowdy, Mrs. Brazon the Matchmaker, Mrs. Wheedle the Milliner, Mrs. Turnup the Manto Maker, Mrs. Crispit the Tire Woman, and Peeper, her Maid. They all seem Talking to her. . We'l, we'l la you now, la you now, Shour and Shour you'l Gally me. . Here's your Ladyships Manto and Petticoat. . Ladyship, why what a main difference is here between this Town and the Country. I was never call'd above Forsooth in all my

It is hardly within the scope of this work to follow the varying fashions of the reign, so one more extract must suffice. It is from 'The Humours of the Army,' by Charles Shadwell (a son, or nephew, of the Poet Laureate, ): ' But there are some fashionable Creatures at the other End of the Town, that give great Hopes of their being very odd

Begin my Muse and sing in Epick Strain The PETTICOAT; (nor shalt thou sing in vain, The PETTICOAT will sure reward thy Pain !)

Before its introduction, women to improve their figures, or to follow the fashion, wore false hips, but these speedily disappeared when the hooped petticoat made its appearance, about . wrote a very funny paper, a mock trial of it, [6]  in which the arguments for and against are duly heard, and he winds up his judgment with 'I consider women as a beautiful romantic animal, that may be adorned with furs and feathers, pearls and diamonds, ores and silks. The lynx shall cast its skin at her feet to make her a tippet; the peacock, parrot and swan shall pay contribution to her muff, the sea shall be searched for shells, and the rocks for gems; and every part of nature furnish out its share towards the embellishment of a creature that is the most consummate work of it. All this I shall indulge them in; but as for the petticoat I have been speaking of, I neither can nor will allow it.' Vain, idle words! the fashion crept on, until under the Georges it was absolutely outrageous. At present it was a somewhat mild hooping of whalebone, compressible-at least such was the under framework; for the word petticoat meant the skirt of the dress-over which was the furbelow. They were made of varied and rich materials; one example will serve to illustrate: ' Stolen &c. A Cloth Colour Gown and Petticoat of Grazet, an Ash Coloured Grazet Gown and Petticoat, a

The bodices were laced, open in front, over very tight stays, showing them; and they varied in material from 'a pair of stays cover'd with Black Tabby Stitched, lin'd with Flannel,' to one 'with 8 diamond Buckles and Tags,' for which Sir Richard Hoare, of the Golden Bottle in Fleet Street, would give the finder twelve guineas. The bodices were worn low, showing the bosom-which, however, was partially concealed by the ' tucker' or 'modesty piece,' which was an edging going round the top of the dress and front of the bosom. In this was beginning to be discontinued, and deep, and many, were the growls over it in the .

The sleeves of the bodice were somewhat short (only coming a little below the bend of the arm), and were worn hanging, to show the white muslin, or lace, hanging sleeve, which came nearly to the wrist-a very pretty fashion; and an apron was worn, made somewhat ornamental by frilling, etc.

This formed the outward costume of a lady; only sometimes it was of extremely rich material, vide the following:

'Stolen out of the house of Mr. Peter Paggen in Love Lane near

Eastcheap

. . . One Isabella colour Kincob Gown flowered with Green and Gold, one Silver lace half Ell deep; One Silver Orrice a quarter of a Yard deep; A large Parcel of Black and Silver Fringe; One dark colour Cloth Gown and Petticoat with 2 Silver Orrices; One Purple and Gold Atlas Gown; One Scarlet and Gold Atlas Petticoat edged with Silver; One wrought under Petticoat edged with Gold; one Black Velvet Petticoat; three Black and White Norwich Stuff Gowns and Petticoats; One Black fine Cloth Gown and 2 Petticoats; One White Satin Gown lined with Black Silk; One Alejah Petticoat striped with Green, Gold, and White; One Silver Net half Yard deep; One White Sarsnet Scarf; Two Yards of White and Gold Atlas; one Blue and Silver Silk Gown and Petticoat; One Blue and Gold Atlas Gown and Petticoat; Two Silver Laces each a quarter of a Yard deep, One yellow Chintz Gown and Petticoat, one

Workt Petticoat; one White Holland Gown and Petticoat drawn for Stitchin; One pair of Shoes and Clogs laced with Silver; One dark Colour Cloth Petticoat with a Silver Orrice, one White Sarsnet Scarf,' etc.

Of ladies' underlinen we get a glimpse in the following:

'Lost &c., a deal box containing 4 fine Holland Shifts, 7 fine Cambric Handkerchiefs, 2 Night rails and Aprons, one with edging and the other flowered, 2 yards of fine loopt Macklen Lace, one Suit of Muslen Lace Night Cloaths, 2 Holland Wastcoats, 3 Diaper Towels, One Powder Box and 6 combs.'

The stockings were either of thread or silk; in the latter case they were sometimes of bright colours. We have already seen how the little temptress of the New Exchange asked,

' Does not your Lady want . . . fine green Silk Stockings?'

Oddly enough, even in those days, which we are somehow inclined to clothe in idyllic simplicity, women dressed like men, as far as they could. Budgell notes this:

'They already appear in Hats and Feathers, Coats and Perriwigs.'

'smite more effectually their Male Beholders,'

'how would they be affected should they meet a Man on Horseback, in his Breeches and Jack Boots, and at the same time dressed up in a Commode and a Night raile?'

The same little feminine vanities existed then as now. We had a glance at the cosmetics and scents, so will only just give one more illustration which supplies some then missing scents.

'I have choice good Gloves, Amber, Orangery, Gensa, Romane, Frangipand, Nerol, Tuberose, Jessimine and Marshal. All manner of Tires for the Head, Locks, Frowzes and so forth;'

There stands the Toilette, Nursery of Charms, Compleatly furnish'd with bright Beauty's Arms;

The Patch, the Powder Box, Pulville, Perfumes, Pins, Paint, a flatt'ring Glass, and Black lead Combs. So Love with fatal Airs the Nymph supplies Her Dress disposes, and directs her Eyes. The Bosom now its naked Beauty Shows, Th' experienced Eye resistless Glances throws; Now vary'd Patches wander o'er the Face, And Strike each Gazer with a borrow'd Grace; The fickle Head dress sinks and now aspires, And rears it's tow'ry Front on rising Wires: The Curling Hair in tortured Ringlets flows, Or round the Face in labour'd Order grows.

The mode of coiffure was far less pretentious than in succeeding reigns. When

That curious practice of patching the face was in force, but was used in greater moderation than either in the reign of Charles I., when suns, moons, stars, and even coaches and four were cut out of sticking plaister, and stuck on the face, and even the mercers patched, to show the effect to their customers-or in the Georgian era, when the face was covered with a sooty eruption. The effect on a pretty face, as shown

. But alas, Madam, who patch'd you to Day? Let me see. It is the hardest thing in Dress. I may say without Vanity I know a little of it. That so low on the Cheeks pulps the Flesh too much. Hold still, my dear, I'll place it just by your Eye-(Aside) Now she downright squints.

. There's nothing like a sincere Friend; for one is not a Judge of one's self. I have a Patch box about me. Hold, my dear, that gives you a sedate Air, that large one near your Temples.

. People, perhaps, don't mind these things: But if it be true, as the Poet finely sings, That all the Passions in the Features are, We may show, or hide 'em, as we know how to affix these pretty artificial Moles.

. And so catch Lovers, and puzzle Physiognomy.[11] 

When not properly applied see the result. ' Han't I got too many Beauty Spots on, in my Mind now my Vace louks just like a Plumb Cake var all the World,' [12]  whilst they possibly might call forth some uncomplimentary remarks, such as 'You pert Baggages, you think you are very handsome now, I warrant you. What a devil's this pound of hair upon your paltry frowses for? what a pox are those patches for? what, are your faces sore ? I'd not kiss a Lady of this Age, by the Mass, I'd rather kiss my Horse.' [13] 

notes the difference between his countrywomen and ours. 'The Use of Patches is not unknown to the

One would hardly imagine that this fashion could have been pressed into the service of party passion, but so it was, if was not jesting-and, after all, perhaps it is not so astonishing, when we recollect that the Tory ladies stayed away from the Queen's Drawing Room-on her Majesty's birthday too-because she gave a flattering reception, and a costly sword, to Prince Eugene: 'About the Middle of last Winter I went to see an Opera at the Theatre in the Haymarket, where I could not but take notice of two Parties of very fine Women, that had placed themselves in the opposite Side Boxes, and seemed drawn up in a kind of Battle Array one against another. After a short Survey of them, I found they were Patch'd differently; the Faces on one Hand being spotted on the right Side of the Forehead, and those upon the other, on the Left. I quickly perceived that they cast Hostile Glances upon one another; and that their Patches were placed in those different Situations, as Party Signals to distinguish Friends from Foes. In the Middle Boxes, between these two opposite Bodies, were several Ladies who Patched indifferently on both Sides of their Faces, and seem'd to sit there with no other Intention but to see the Opera. Upon Inquiry I found that the Body of Amazons on my right Hand were Whigs, and those on my Left, Tories: And that those who had placed themselves in the Middle Boxes were a Neutral Party, whose Faces had not yet declared themselves. These last however, as I afterwards found, diminished daily, and took their Party with one Side or the Other; insomuch that I observed in several of them, the Patches, which were before dispersed equally, are now all gone over to the Whig or Tory side of the Face.' [14] 

It has been noticed that masks were used in the country by ladies when taking horse exercise; in fact, it was a sub-

No change in Government the Women stop. For Eighteen Pence in Velvet sets them up.

Epilogue to The Modish Husband, ed. 1702.

Seeing the class by whom they were worn, people having them on were naturally liable to insult. The following illustrates the manners of the time:

Of course, when the commode was worn, no other headcovering could be worn with it; but, when it came to be lowered, and almost disappear, a graceful fashion came up of scarves or hoods, and thus bright colours are alluded to more than once by contemporary writers, especially in the [17] : 'I took notice of a little Cluster of Women sitting together in the prettiest colour'd Hoods that I ever saw One of them was Blue, another Yellow, and another Philomot ;[18]  the fourth

Your Hoods and Cloaths or rather Riding Hoods Were first invented to steal People's Goods- For when their Wearers came with a Pretence To Buy-Tho' looking with much Innocence, Lace, Silk, or Muslin privately they steal And under those same Cloaks their Theft Conceal.

The tall broad-brimmed hat (which still exists in Wales, only made in beaver) of James the First's reign was still used by country women, and the poorer class in towns. , talking of an 'Assembly of Fat Motherly Flat Caps' at Billingsgate, says: 'Their Chief clamour was against High Heads and Patches; and said it would have been a very good Law, if Q. Mary had effected her design, and brought the proud Minks's of the Town, to have worn High Crownd Hats instead of Top Knots.' [20]  And in 'Tunbridge Walks' : ' Oh! the joys of a Country life, to mind one's Poultry, and one's Dairy, and the pretty business of milking a Cow, then, the soft diversions of riding on Horseback, or going to a Bull baiting, and the Charming Conversation of High Crown'd Hats, who can talk of nothing but their Hogs and their Husbands.'

Furs were worn, and of course duly lost. From one advertisement we get to know the name of 'a Sable Tippit or Zar' ; and from another we learn something of its shape, 'a round Sable Tippet, about 2 yards long, the Sable pretty deep and dark, with a piece of black Silk in the Square of the neck.' They also had muffs, not only of feathers, as we have already seen, but of fur of all sorts, from otter skin to ' the Cats' fur. But ladies did not go out more than they could

The tuck'd up sempstress walks with hasty strides While Streams run down her oil'd umbrella's sides.

Curious clumsy things these old umbrellas must have been. For a man to have used one, he would have deserved, and received, some such satire as 'The Young gentleman

Good Huswives all the Winter's Rage despise, Defended by the Riding Hood's Disguise; Or underneath th' Umbrella's oily Shed, Safe thro' the Wet on clinking Pattens tread. Let Persian Dames th' Umbrella's Ribs display, To guard their Beauties from the sunny Ray; Or sweating Slaves support the shady Load, When Eastern Monarchs shew their State abroad; Britain in Winter only knows its Aid, To guard from chilly Show'rs the walking Maid. But 0 ! forget not, Muse, the Patten's Praise, That female Implement shall grace thy Lays; Say from what Art Divine th' Invention came, And from its Origine deduce the name.

And then tells the legend of how Vulcan fell in love with Martha (or Patty), the daughter of a Lincolnshire yeoman; how to save her feet from the cold and wet he studded her shoes with nails; but still she had a cold and lost her voice,

The Patten now supports each frugal Dame, Which from the blue ey'd Patty takes the name.

But we must not forget that potent weapon in woman's armoury, the fan.

The Fan shall flutter in all Female Hands, And various Fashions learn from various lands, For this, shall Elephants their Iv'ry shed; And polished Sticks the waving Engine spread: His clouded Mail the Tortoise shall resign, And round the Rivet pearly Circles shine. On this shall Indians all their Art employ, And with bright Colours stain the gaudy Toy; Their Paint shall Here in wildest Fancies flow, Their Dress, their Customs, their Religion show, So shall the British Fair their minds improve, And on the Fan to distant Climates rove. Here shall the Chinese Dame her Pride display, And silver Figures gild her loose Array; She boasts her little Feet and winking Eyes, And tunes the Fife, or tinkling Cymbal plies; Here Cross leg'd Nobles in rich State shall dine, When on the Floor large painted Vessels shine, For These, 0 China, shall thy Realms be sought, With These, shall Europe's mighty Ships be fraught, Thy glitt'ring Earth shall tempt their Ladies Eyes, Who for thy brittle Jars shall Gold despise. Gay France shall make the Fan her Artists' Care, And with the Costly Trinket arm the Fair. While Widows seek once more the Nuptial State, And wrinkled Maids repent their Scorn too late, As long as youthful Swains shall Nymphs deceive, And easie Nymphs those youthful Swains believe, While Beaus in Dress consume the tedious Morn, So long the Fan shall Female Hands adorn.

To anyone interested in the use of the fan at this period, a perusal of 's article in the (No. 102) is recommended: it is too long for reproduction here, and would be thoroughly spoilt by merely making use of extracts

Before closing the subject of women's costumes the 'Mob' must be noticed-that dress of which writes: 'The ladies were all in Mobs; how do you call it ?-undressed.' [25]  This negligent costume, of which no actual contemporary description seems to exist, is never mentioned except to be decried-as, for instance, the question is asked, 'How is a man likely to relish his wife's society when he comes home and finds her slovenly, in a Mob?' And there were one or two other articles of dress not usually mentioned, and not described, as 'Women's laced Head Cloaths commonly called Quaker's Pinners' and 'Dowds.'

What woman could exist without shopping nowadays ? And the habit was the same among the ladies of Queen Anne's time. The Female () gives us the following graphic description of shopping: 'This afternoon some ladies, having an opinion of my fancy in Cloaths, desired me to accompany them to Ludgate Hill, which I take it to be as agreeable an amusement as a lady can pass away three or four hours in. The shops are perfect gilded theatres, the variety of wrought silks so many changes of fine scenes, and the Mercers are the performers in the Opera; and instead of you have in gold capitals "No trust by retail." They are the sweetest, fairest, nicest, dished out creatures; and by their elegant and soft speeches, you would guess them to be Italians. As people glance within their doors, they salute them with-Garden silks, ladies, Italian Silks, brocades, tissues, cloth of Silver, or cloth of Gold, very fine Mantua Silks, any right Geneva velvet, English velvet, velvet embossed. And to the meaner sort-

'We went into a shop which had three partners; two of them were to flourish out their silks; and after an obliging smile and a pretty mouth made, Cicero like, to expatiate on their goodness; and the other's sole business was to be gentleman usher of the shop, to stand completely dressed at the door, bow to all the coaches that pass by, and hand ladies out and in.

'We saw abundance of gay fancies, fit for Sea Captain's wives, Sheriff's feasts, and Taunton dean ladies. [26]  This, Madam, is wonderfully charming. This, Madam, is so diverting a Silk. This, Madam-my stars! how cool it looks. But this, Madam.-Ye Gods! would I had 10,000 yards of it! Then gathers up a sleeve, and places it to your shoulders. It suits your Ladyship's face wonderfully well. When we had pleased ourselves, and bid him ten shillings a yard for what he asked fifteen; Fan me, ye winds, your lady ship rallies me! should I part with it at such a price, the weavers would rise upon the very Shop. Was you at the Park last night, Madam ? Your ladyship shall abate me sixpence. Have you read the to day ? &c.

'These fellows are positively the greatest fops in the kingdom; they have their toilets and their fine night gowns; their chocolate in the morning, and their green tea two hours after; Turkey polts for their dinner; and their perfumes, washes, and clean linen, equip them for the Parade.'

We get a glimpse at the prices of silk dresses in the following advertisement: 'The Silk Gowns formerly sold in Exchange Alley, are removed to the sign of the Hood and Scarf, directly over against Will's Coffee House in Cornhill, where any Gentleman or Lady may be furnished with any

Besides the stuffs described in the Female , there were 'Silver Tishea, Pudsway Silks, Shaggs, Tabbeys, Mowhairs, Grazets, Broches, Flowered Damasks, Flowered Lustrings, ditto striped and plain, Sarsnets, Italian Mantuas, Silk Plushes, Farendines, Shagreen, Poplins, Silk Crapes and Durants' ; whilst among the woollen goods were 'Hair and Woollen Camlets, Hair Plushes, Spanish and English druggets, Serge Denims, Calamancoes, Russels, Serges, Shalloons, Tammeys, Ratteens, and Salapeens.' Ladies' black broadcloth cost 13s. 6d. per yard, fine scarlet 15s. 6d., and superfine do. 17s. 6d.

Of Indian stuffs there is a formidable list, and as the names are curious, and are probably lost and forgotten, I reproduce them:-

Having a Queen upon the throne-one that kept her Court, and dressed well-lace was naturally an article in demand. The Queen was somewhat moderate at her Coronation, for her point lace only came to £pound;pound;64 13s. 9d. It was Flanders lace, and was allowed to be imported, provided it was not made in 'the dominions of the French king.' Mechlin and Brussels lace first made their appearance in this reign, and, in 171O, the Queen paid £pound;pound;151 for twenty-six yards of fine edged Brussels lace. Indeed, Brussels lace was somewhat dear: 'One Brussels Head is valued at £pound;pound;40; a grounded Brussels head £pound;pound;30; one looped Brussels £pound;pound;30.' 'Lost betwixt Hemming's Row and Owin Street near , a Tin Box with Lace; whoever brings it to Mrs. Beck at the Angel and Star in shall have £pound;pound;10 Reward and no Questions ask'd.' '9 pieces of fine Bone Lace belonging to a Person of Quality' were also lost, and £pound;pound;10 reward offered. This lace does not always seem to have been made of thread, for, 'Whereas two pieces of Silver Bone lace, was brought to a shop in Winchester Street to be weighed, the Lace being suppos'd to be stol'n, is stoped.' Four pieces of lace, lost, induced a reward of five guineas, and the finder of three pieces of 'Brussels edging Lace' is supposed to be tempted by the offer of 10s. to bring them back.

We have read in the robbery from Mr. Paggen's of a number of garments with gold and silver lace, and with silver ' Orrices,' and the use of bullion lace grew to such an extent, that in , its entry was forbidden under pain of forfeiture, and a fine of£100.

The linen of this reign was finer, and better, than in those preceding, and one linen draper of the time has handed his name down to posterity, viz. 'Thomas Doyley at the Nun in Henrietta Street, .' A list of the linens then in vogue, is, as far as I can learn, as follows: 'White and Brown Osnabrigs, Dowlas's, Kentings, Muslins, Bed ticks, Garlets, Spotted Lawns, Sietias, Harford Blue, White Shorks, Holland, Cambricks, Gentings, Callicoes, Damask, Diaper, Huckabacks, Dimmities.'

Of these 'fine double threaded Cottons for Sheetings' was 12d. per yard and muslin 5s. 6d.

The 'Tally Man' was an institution in those days, and was well known. His handbills remain, and there is a singular unanimity among them; with one voice they make Monday the day for purchases and payments. The reason for this is obvious; at that early period of the week the Saturday's earnings ought not to be spent. As a rule, the terms were, 'Paying one shilling a Week for Thirty Shillings, untill the Sum is paid for which they Contract.' One gentleman sticks up for his dignity, and begs you to ' Note. That these goods are not to be sold by a Tally man, but the Money is to be taken by Weekly, or Monthly Payments, according as it shall be agreed upon for the Ease of the Customers.' This system was as pernicious then as now, only, as the law of arrest for debt was in full force, the prisons held plenty of victims.

It was not a particularly ostentatious age for jewellery, and we can get a good idea of what was worn, by one or two advertisements of lost property. 'Stolen the 11 th of this Instant February [27]  between 6 and 7 of the clock at night, from the Golden Buck in Lombard Street, a Show Glass, in which, besides several things not remembr'd, were these Particulars, viz. A gold Moco [28]  Stone Chain set in Gold with a Crown at the top. One Grain Gold Wratch Chain mark't C. 0. One large Saphyre loose and 1 a little less. One string of Pearls from 2 Grains to 5 or 6 Grains a piece; one large Pearl with a large Hole in it, about 12 Grains, with several other loose Pearls; with several Diamond Rings, Rubies and Garnet Grislets set in the Middle. One very large Sized Ring, with 12 Diamonds, one being out, with an Ametheist broke in the middle. One fine Medal of Cardinal Richelieu; one Smaller Gold Medal with two Heads. Several Stone and plain Lockets, and Gold Hearts, with Stones on the top to open. One Gold Chain with three links, links and end, 15 d. wt. and one Brilliant Diamond Ring, set round with 8 Diamonds in the middle; one longish Diamond weighing about 2 grains and a half, or 3 at most. One large Garnet

'Lost, &c. A Gold Watch made by Richards, with a Gold Seal and Cornelion set in it, a Griffin Rampant ingrav'd thereon, a pair of Drops hanging at the end of the Chain; a Rumphlet [29]  of Diamonds set in Silver and gilt. 2 Necklaces of Pearl, 1 middling, the other small; 1 Diamond Ring containing 7 Stones set in Gold. I Mourning Ring mark'd H. G. in a Silver Box.' ' A Bristow Stone [30]  Necklace set in Silver.'

There was lost a very interesting memorial ring, to which, in those Jacobite days, no doubt a particular value was attached. 'A Gold ring with 7 Diamonds in the form of a Rose, which opens, and within the effigies of K. Charles I. Enamelled, next the finger is C. R. with a Death's Head in the middle.'

Diamonds were much worn, and frequently lost. For the following, a reward of 10 per cent. of their value was offered. 'Lost &c. 42 loose Diamonds, some of them large, belonging to a Necklace, and two with holes made behind for Screws to be put in, all strung on a white silk; and two Tags with 16 small Diamonds.' For the next 100£. was offered, or proportionate sums for portions. ' Lost by a Person of Quality,

The greatest loss of diamonds in this reign was the following, for which a reward of 1,000 guineas, and the Queen's pardon, was offered. ' Whereas there were brought from India in the Ship Albemarle (which was driven ashore at Pielpora near Plimouth about the 9th of this instant December) Five Bulses of Diamonds, which are pretending to be missing or lost. . . . Amongst which said Diamonds was one very uncommon, remarkable Diamond, viz. One cut Table Stone of the first Water, and in all Perfection, weighing about 26 Carrats and a Quarter, and one Pointed rough Stone weighing about 18 Carrats and a Quarter; and one other rough Stone weighing about 21 Carrats, a Point some thing fallen, Christalline, White and Clean.' , Dec. 23/27, . One is glad to read in 'Luttrel's Diary,' January 15, , ' Part of the Diamonds missing out of the Ship Albemarle are found, and brought to the Secretary's Office.'

'Lost April 23 () upon the day of Her Majesty's Coronation, in or near , a Diamond Stomacher, with a Row of Rose Diamonds down the Middle, with knots of small Rose Diamonds on each side; in the setting there being a joint between each knot; they being all set in Silver, and sow'd upon black Ribbon. Lost also at the same time one large Rose Diamond set in Silver, and fastened to a Bodkin.'

The Queen herself lost some diamonds on this memorable occasion, but nothing of great value, as only ten guineas were offered as a reward. 'Whereas there was Ten Small Diamonds singly set in Silver, but made up together into a Sprig fastened by a Wire, which were lost from her Majesty's Robes in the Procession upon the Coronation Day,' etc. This, however, was not the only loss the Queen suffered during her reign, some of her subjects conceiving a violent affection for her plate-vide the following advertisements. 'Whereas several pieces of Plate, as Dishes, Trencher Plates, Knives, forks,

The plate of this reign was heavy and cumbrous, and of very little artistic merit. It was greatly in use, and was an outward and visible sign of its owner's wealth. To such an extent did its use obtain, that taverns were ordered not to have silver tankards, the temptation to steal them being so great.

Ladies occasionally wore chatelaines in the street, and lost them, whilst they seem only to have worn their watches for the sake of losing their outer case, judging by the numbers of advertisements. Being worn outside, there was nothing easier to steal. Not the whole watch; oh no! but gently to press the spring, and the gold case was in the thief's possession, with next door to no risk. They were absolutely asking

[1] It is said to have had its origin in a hunting party, where the hair of the royal favourite got loose. She hurriedly tied her laced handkerchief round her head; and the effect produced was so pretty, and artistic, that it delighted Louis XIV., who begged her to keep it so arranged for the remainder of the day-a hint not wasted on the other ladies, who next day appeared 'coiffees a la Fontange.'

[2] Spectator, No. 98, June 21, 1711.

[3] London Spy.

[4] The extremely bouffee furbelows were called rumpt furbelows, and the brooches inserted in the centre were called rump jewels or rumphlets.

[5] The Petticoat; an Heroi-Comical Poem, by Joseph Gay (pseudo for J. Durant de Brevel), 1716.

[6] Tatler, 116.

[7] Spectator, 331.

[8] Ibid. 435.

[9] The Virtuoso

[11] The Lying Lover.

[12] The Platonick Lady.

[13] The Virtuoso.

[14] Spectator, 81.

[16] London Spy.

[17] No. 265.

[18] Feuille-mort.

[20] London Spy.

[21] The Tatler, No. 238.

[22] The Female Tatler, Dec. 12.

[24] The Fan, by Gay, ed. 1714.

[25] Journal to Stella, letter 11 .

[26] Why Taunton dean ladies I am at a loss to say, unless, as Somersetshire was then considered as the 'ultima Thule' of civilisation, it is meant that the dresses were as fine and gaudy as a country belle would wear, in contradistinction to the better taste of her town-bred sister.

[27] In reality it was 1704. In the old style of reckoning 1704 did not begin till the 25th of March, and the London Gazette of this reign always kept to the old style.

[28] 'Moco' stones are what are now called moss agates.

[29] See ante, 'Rumps.'

[30] Probably what we call ' Bristol diamonds.'

[31] London Gazette, Jan. 8/11, 1704-5.

[32] A Monteith was a kind of punch-bowl, with scallops or indentations in the brim, the object of which was to convert it into a convenient tray for bringing in the wine-glasses. These being placed with the brims downwards, radiating from the centre and with the handles protruding through the indentations in the bowl, were easily carried without much jingling or risk of breaking. Of course the bowl would then be empty of liquor! 'New things produce new words, and thus Monteith Has by one Vessel, sav'd his name from Death.' Dr. King's Art of Cookery, etc., p. 37.

[33] London Gazette, May 26, 29, 1707.

[34] Ibid. Oct. 20/24, 1713.